whipping out the D , good riddance , lol.

gonzo

dash half out

dash out , lol

cutting a hole from the inside for the RSX wiring harness to enter the cabin , rather the passenger side.

a little tease , little problem , doesnt fit quite perfect , little trimming involved , maybe more , lol , but its going in

story of my life , lol

RSX subframe going on

after power steering line , cables , wiring harness ran in car , blah blah , grabbing the K

finally

not tight or nothing

RSX spindles , brakes , struts , so on. ive retained my civic LCA's , and sway bar.

this is the drivers side cup out of DA style teg , cut away form the chassis , lol. trimmed to rest flush with my chassis when bolted together , fits nice.

cleaning contact points and tacking it in

after half welded in

anyways thats where i stand right now. passenger mount is complete and bolted in and tight. looks great and will do the job fine. more tomorrow guys.

got the dash bolted in tonite , little trimming involved , lol. alot of wiring done. got the drivers side mount fabbed and bolted in. got clutch line made and bled. got front brakes all bled. lots more wiring to do. wiring is pretty much what i have left. shes good to roll.

we got er done. i got some issues though , but also right now im running it off the civic ecu , which could be causing the problems idk. heres some pics of the almost end result , lol:

type r cluster came today.

i know its a mess still , lol

you can see here , the rsx harness for the wiper motor , brake fluid/clutch fluid low indicator , and cruise control are seperate from the rest. the civic isnt , so i dug out the rsx harness , got rid of the civic harness , relocated my cruise control under the wiper assembly cover and all comming out a rubber grommet.

ahhhh , done finally , lol , sort of. you can see here i took the sensor , whatever it is , maybe you guys can tell me? out of the bottom of the rsx rad , and fabbed an inline place for it. i figured as long as its in coolant it dont matter. also i reused my civic rad so had to get some plumbing fitting to make a line.

now for the problems , maybe you guys can help. car is running in limp mode. idles very high , never checked for vacuum leaks yet. when you first start the car , the tach works and comes up , than 2 seconds it falls to zero and stays there , i dont get that. the coolant gauge wasnt working , once the car was heated up , i turned it off , turned the key back to on , it came up where its supposed to be , than when you start the car , it falls slowly to the bottom , dont get that either , lol. to add , it doesnt always come up either when you turn key on , got an attitude. car wont rev higher than approx 3500 , hard to tell with no tach. the A/C compressor sounds like a dying animal. engine light is on. with the key in on position , the engine light after being lit solid for a long time , will flash 5 times , than continue staying lit. all i can think of right now , tired. any help would be appreciated guys. thanks.

heres a little vid of it running for the first time:

Quote, originally posted by thinknology »

I like this noob

That would be your Fan Switch. It should be in your radiator, since it measures the coolant temperature in the radiator itself, and turns the Fan(s) on accordingly.

Quote, originally posted by blackKready »

now for the problems , maybe you guys can help. car is running in limp mode. idles very high , never checked for vacuum leaks yet. when you first start the car , the tach works and comes up , than 2 seconds it falls to zero and stays there , i dont get that. the coolant gauge wasnt working , once the car was heated up , i turned it off , turned the key back to on , it came up where its supposed to be , than when you start the car , it falls slowly to the bottom , dont get that either , lol. to add , it doesnt always come up either when you turn key on , got an attitude. car wont rev higher than approx 3500 , hard to tell with no tach. the A/C compressor sounds like a dying animal. engine light is on. with the key in on position , the engine light after being lit solid for a long time , will flash 5 times , than continue staying lit. all i can think of right now , tired. any help would be appreciated guys. thanks.

All of those problems (and much more likely, many many more problems) are because of this:

Quote, originally posted by blackKready »

we got er done. i got some issues though , but also right now im running it off the civic ecu , which could be causing the problems idk. heres some pics of the almost end result , lol:

You could very well have destroyed something on your engine. Until you have the proper wiring and ECU for the K, do not attempt to start it again. I can assure you, that you will do severe damage to the engine otherwise.

Other than that, it looks pretty good, and I'd like to see more pictures of your dash.

matt since you seem to know the K , im still new to the K. hasport as well as 2 other sources told me i could run the civic ecu to get it to honda. i know as well as you , the civic ecu is causing these problems , cause the engine harness is isolated and hasnt been touched so. now i have a question for you matt , a guy on either clubrsx or K20.org told me i could ground a wire off the fuel pump relay , or a wire off the ecu pertaining to fuel pump to bypass immobiliser for now? hes pretty confident in this , says this is how the mugen ecu bypasses it? ever hear of this?

why don't you just switch to kpro instead of using the stock ecu

You won't be able to run the Civic's ECU, because it's not wired to take the same sensors that the K-series has. The "Flashing" process only eliminates the Immobilizer. You could re-flash a K-series ECU (preferably one relative to your engine), to match the keys coding, but even then it'll only make sure the car starts. It won't ensure proper engine management.

Now, as for the fuel relay bypass trick, I've heard a bunch of horror stories from people who tried this. If you're only looking to use it for a very short time, it would be ok, but I definitely recommend getting a K-pro, or having your ECU re-flashed, to make sure the Immobilizer is disabled. I do not think there is any ECU solution from Mugen for the K-series, so I wouldn't suggest buying anything under that manufacturer just yet, as it may be someone faking the product name.

Either way, you're going to want one, simply from the standpoint of tuning and proper engine management. I wouldn't say it's "Price Gouging" as it's the most versatile Engine Management system I've seen, under $3,500. And, being that it's able to handle nitrous, boost, and an endless amount of other features, it's clearly the best choice for an engine swapped vehicle.

I have the biggest fucking problem with this ever! I hate Hasport so much to this day because of the bullshit that they still tell people.

Follow Matt's instructions and you'll be fine.

If you wanted to use and OEM mount, you should have grabbed one from an RSX. It bolts right in, and doesn't look like it was added in. Either way, it looks good.

?? psychology, psychiatry, psychopolitics ??

Quote, originally posted by thinknology »

I like this noob

man i couldnt tell you if it fits a 4dr. theres no info on this. as far as i researched , im the first person to put an rsx dash into an EM2. if someone could prove me wrong , id love to read info on it as well. how they went about it.

im not sure what you mean about the fuel map not being right matt? i was talking to honda , they are programming the keys , not the ecu. the ecu doesnt actually get programmed , they match my keys with it. thats what they told me. also why you can only have one ecu programmed to your car at a time. so i cant see the fuel/ignition map not being good.

I have to admit, i am very tempted. Also because I like how the RSX head unit faces the driver and not the center. It's more suited for the driver.

Quote, originally posted by blackKready »

i had all the mounts off the rsx , they dont bolt in. not even close. not the side mounts i mean. man i couldnt tell you if it fits a 4dr. theres no info on this. as far as i researched , im the first person to put an rsx dash into an EM2. if someone could prove me wrong , id love to read info on it as well. how they went about it.

yes I would be interested. If i had a second car and some money i'd do a project on it and MAKE it work lol. lot of props for the dash man!

?? psychology, psychiatry, psychopolitics ??

They do..

how i routed power steering , fits mint.

Mugen N1 ECU [37820-XK5-S0N0]
RSX (2002-2006) 2002-2004 Type S, Type R

I had it in my car for 3 years. It makes decent power but nothing compared to kpro tuned results.

Nice work with the swap! I'm really impressed with the dash.

www.Defcon-Racing.com - My Build Thread

I suppose I should have checked with King Motorsports first, eh?

Anyways, the horror stories I have heard of, are in relation to fuel cutoff as the car is in motion. People have had the fuel pump turn off during driving, and that can cause serious damage to the drivetrain.

PS. I'm really liking the dash, bud. A little more modification and it'll look like it belongs there.

"If you ain't scraping, you ridin' to high!"

On a non-turbo car really the only damage that would happen if the fuel pump turned off while driving would be a loss of power...Then the damage would occur as whoever was driving would probably freak out and crash into a post