- A: During the production* of the '04-'05 models, Honda changed the bolts mounting the McPherson Struts in the front, to the hubs themselves, from 14mm to 16mm. In most cases, a sleeve or some drilling will allow you to fit one model on the other, but some setups cannot do that, due to built-in camber adjustment.

Q: How far down must I be to require a camber kit?

- A: Most anyone should get them as soon as they lower the vehicle, but as far as true necessity goes, you will start to need a rear camber kit once you reach the 1.5" drop and beyond. The reason being, that the rear wheels will start to camber out past the 3 degrees of acceptability. It is also recommended to wait a period of a couple weeks to allow for the new suspension setup to "settle", before getting an alignment and adjusting the camber.

Q: I would like to do change on my struts and shocks. What would I need to look for?

- A: For the 2001-2002 production* years, the strut/shock diameter is 50mm, where as in the 2003-2005 production* years it is 55mm.

Q: I just lowered my car, now I get creaking/cracking noises from the suspension. What is it from?

- A: This typically means that your springs are not seated/indexed properly. Loosen the top strut bolt, lift the car, and re-align them.

Q: I just changed my suspension setup. How soon should I get an alignment?

- A: Depending on what all has been done, and how low the car is, I would recommend not waiting longer than 2 weeks. For the most part, your car should have no problems lasting that long, without an alignment. If you went with a HUGE suspension drop, I would recommend no more than 5 days, if driven often.

* - Please note that the term production year relates to when the car was actually manufactured. Certain model 2003 cars were produced in 2002, and some were produced in 2003. This is important to notice, as it signifies what size/type of suspension components you have. You can find the production year through the VIN number, or by checking the information on the driver's side door channel.

Feel free to add your own input to this thread, but keep in mind that commentary/chat will be deleted, to keep in the nature of the thread.

All over good post

It's probably the same reason for why they would making creaking noises. the springs are probably not set right. If that's not the case, your top strut bolt might be loose. It needs to be at 33 lb/ft of torque, if I remember correctly.

Please keep the questions rolling, as I want to have this as detailed as possible.

im looking for about a 1.5" drop

is it viable to just get lowering springs? i'm kinda on a budget and i dont want to get new coilovers and the works, how will it last on the stock components? and it says in the faq about needing a camber kit after 1.5" but you only specify on the rear, so just the rear needs a camber kit?

My Build Thread

Quote, originally posted by awang »

i don't have time right now, but maybe define some terms, like spring, shock, strut, etc... and answer the question "how do i lower my car"

That would be something better suited for the "Suspension" forum in the Technical Forum section. This is mainly a thread dedicated to typical 7th generation Civic suspension issues.

Quote, originally posted by bakerboy0642 »

ok if your gonna make this a big faq for noobs i have a pretty noob question, im looking for about a 1.5" drop is it viable to just get lowering springs? i'm kinda on a budget and i dont want to get new coilovers and the works, how will it last on the stock components? and it says in the faq about needing a camber kit after 1.5" but you only specify on the rear, so just the rear needs a camber kit?

Knowing what parts to buy and how long parts will last is entirely circumstantial. It would depend on the quality of products introduced, the wear on the existing components, and the type of driving to be done.

As far as the camber kit goes, I answered the question already. If you're going for a small drop, the rear camber kit will be the only correction necessary.

My Build Thread

I would say on smoother roads with low amounts of stress, the stock struts would last anywhere from a month to a decade. There's really no telling if you've got poorly made struts. No one can account for that.

From the thread: "Whoever said the top speed was 129"

Quote, originally posted by ley »

on a EX em2 was really wrong! I got the video to prove it. hehe

The only thing you'll want to be aware of, is the larger strut diameter. 55mm, instead of 50mm.

I have a 02 sedan and would like to get rid of the harsh ride, so if I can find a set of shocks and springs from a 03, are they bolt on?

As per the FAQ, the 04/05 but will require a sleeve, but no mention of 03.

Thanks in advance!

Strut size did change, but not the spring perches, so you should have no problems.

the guy is also giving me the oem struts too, so those would be no good for me then, right?

You could use them, but they'd need modification. I'd say if your stock ones are fine, there would be no need to use his.

Courtesy of 7thgencivic.com by Zzyzx

Have fun, heres a quick summery:

1. Cross drilled rotors DO NOTHING to improve braking or Reduceing Brake Fade.
2. Cryogenically Treating Rotors does nothing.
3. Changing the rear drums to Disks may actually Hinder braking.
4. Big Brake Kits in the front (Only) may also Hinder Braking.
5. Big brake kits can wreak havoc on ABS systems causing a measurable increase in stoping distance.
6. your tires may be the most important part of your braking system (After all you can only stop as quickly as your tires will let you).

the rest you can read here

http://www.civicforums.com/for....html

Quote, originally posted by yobbr5 »

My buddy has a superchargered s2k, and that its rear wheel drive and it loses about 40% of its power from the drivetrain, axle, and other things.

Just springs? No. Coilovers? Yes.

They won't work.