I also found out that my wideband is reading completely wrong, that 149whp run told that story. My wideband was reading 12-13 AFR and the dyno was reading 15's in vtec!!! gotta get that fixed asap.

The above graphs display my base runs for each manifold and the best runs for each.

this graph shows the difference between the OEM ported IM's best versus the EuroR's best.

And remember that my intake setup is far from being the most powerful. This test has just about convinced me that i'm not sending the manifold back and i'll be paying for it

This manifold can be purchased from http://www.roskoracing.com aka Rosko. It includes everything to make this manifold a direct bolt on.

EDIT:

Tom's Test. Dyno run without vtec:

MY SETUP:
JDM H22a
super short ram with BPI flowstack
Gen1 RMF narrow
2.5" carsound cat
2.25" exhaust
s2000 throttle body
splitfire plugs
NGK wires
PS, AC removed
EuroR IM
p28 / NepTune RTP

Modified by 98vtec at 8:18 PM 8/8/2007

Modified by 98vtec at 9:23 PM 8/8/2007

Modified by 98vtec at 10:55 PM 8/8/2007

Modified by 98vtec at 11:00 PM 8/8/2007

Modified by 98vtec at 12:34 AM 8/9/2007

Modified by 98vtec at 10:07 PM 8/14/2007

I'm using Neptune RTP

5gen Prelude short shifters coming soon - sign up here to be notified!

i'll be adding that in a couple minutes

nice work thanks for the info

HUGE H22 partout sale and other h-series parts
http://www.hondamarketplace.co...44636

Thanks for posting

Quote, originally posted by Rosko »

glad you got the setup to work Blake!

appreciate all the work you put into these manifolds and everything you have done as a friend

werddd.

good tests dude

Quote, originally posted by Stockton »

I know, he does have the best ass of probably any President.

If nothing else it makes me want to finish my Euro-R project. You picked up about ~9% at 6500rpm. that's interesting since that's where my engine peaks...

Thanks a bunch for posting your results

Pirate

Fact: Hondata eBay Paypal =

yea thats with the old RMF narrow. i'll post my setup, thanks pirate.

-Accord IAT sensor
-IAC Wires extended
-New coolant hoses (to reach new IAC location)
-Longer cruise control vac line, and a vac tee or two.

The stuff he makes for it is nice stuff. The 3-bolt IAC adapter is really cool

Thanks for the testing, Blake


Modified by A Blue Lude at 9:50 PM 8/8/2007

yeah blake thats what killed my old 02, if you have the sensor in without power running to it the heater won't kick on and you'll get very false rich readings from the sensor being coated in fuel and carbon build up.

has anyone done a skunk 2 versus Euro R plot?

I was thinking of getting a skunk 2 manifold down the line but seeing 2point6 and rosko offering full bolt on euro Rs and seeing some success with the Blacktrack stage 2-3 manifolds I maybe be leaning towards them now, but thats all research for me to do on my own when the time comes to replace those parts

when did you go down to a 2.25in exhaust? I though you had a 2.5

anyway again thanks for testing and offering up the information for the community, helps everyone and shows people are still doing this to advance the hobby/sport as a whole