Lets see them!

Stewart Race Engines / RLZ ENGINEering
T1 Race Development / Speed Trapp Consulting
Arizona Forced Induction / Hasport / NRG-Tech

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Very Nice! The fuel line for the rail you make your self or pick up a kit?

The larger the hose/fittings the less likely that you will carry oil with the blowby air. I wouldn't run anything smaller than -10AN. Big HP cars.... at least -12AN.

Quote, originally posted by Hondaruss »

Very Nice! The fuel line for the rail you make your self or pick up a kit?

There is nothing about this car that is even close to a "kit".... I do/make everything by myself.

Stewart Race Engines / RLZ ENGINEering
T1 Race Development / Speed Trapp Consulting
Arizona Forced Induction / Hasport / NRG-Tech

what am i looking at here? what are the blue things?

Correct. I am working on the car and I have the -12AN breather hoses off, so I plug them to prevent foreign material from destroying my motor.

Stewart Race Engines / RLZ ENGINEering
T1 Race Development / Speed Trapp Consulting
Arizona Forced Induction / Hasport / NRG-Tech

ahhhhh. i didnt know what was going on. it looked sealed to me, not like filter.

now i get it.

The breather is a fairly small breather and we used it to hopefully create a small vacuum in the crank case will still providing fresh, filtered air. It seems to work though as there is no oil on the filter, yet on the dyno you could clearly see vapor movement in the hose running to the one-way valve.

The point we pulled the scavange from is fully baffled. While there was some oil residue behind the car on the dyno, it was pretty minimal. To me it said the baffle was working pretty well at keeping oil in the motor but the motor was still venting very well.

Stewart Race Engines / RLZ ENGINEering
T1 Race Development / Speed Trapp Consulting
Arizona Forced Induction / Hasport / NRG-Tech

can you give me a walk through of your set up in a "for dummies" fashion?

Basically I just made a down hill, one way street for airflow through the engine.

Under load, the exhaust velocity is high enough (in theory) to produce a low static pressure in the exhaust tube. This is from Bernoulli's equation and it basically states that if you speed up a fluids velocity, it will have a lower pressure. Well, it's more complicated then that, but that's the easy version. There is a one-way valve that pokes into the exhaust tube at ~45 degrees inline with the exhaust flow. This valve it to prevent reversion of the exhaust gases into the tube under light load, when the exhaust velocity is not as high.

Under boost, the valve allows air to flow from atmosphere, into the valve cover through the filter. From the other side of the valve cover, air can flow into the exhaust stream due to the aforementioned low static pressure in the tube. It creates a pressure potential to induce fluid motion, thanks to the high velocity of the exhaust gas.

That said, I don't know if I'd try this out on a normal front engine setup. The MR2, being rear engine, has a very short exhaust. I was able to put the nozzle very near the end of the pipe so that there is minimal static pressure loss from the point in the tube where the nozzle is to the atmosphere. On a longer exhaust, or further from the end of the exhaust, there is likely enough pressure drop in the exhaust pipe that the static pressure in the pipe is actually higher then the ambient pressure.

Baby you know how I am at the end... you are always with me

Quote, originally posted by haydenpothoven »

Im diggin this setup!

anyone know where i can get a breather box setup for the vented valve cover?

Acully they all look good!

Quote, originally posted by Hondaruss »

anyone know where i can get a breather box setup for the vented valve cover? Acully they all look good!

Build your own, thats why its in "welding/fabrication". If there were a perfect off the shelf breather box then everyone would have one. Most commercial available units only have 2 inlet fittings and doesn't adequately support high powered turbo motors.