what LCA do you use and WHY?
03-16-2007, 10:12 AM
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i'm looking for a replacement R-LCA because mine (OEM) are starting to fail... i have heard the OEM ones use really high quality rubber for thier bushing inserts BUT, honda will need to special order them and the're going to cost me about 250$.... so i might as well get some aftermarket pieces...................
Modified by liquid:cooled at 11:39 AM 3/16/2007
Modified by liquid:cooled at 11:39 AM 3/16/2007
03-16-2007, 10:40 AM
#3
Re: (liquid:cooled)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im basically looking for a replacement RLCA because mine (OEM) are starting to fail... i have heard the OEM ones use real high quality rubber for thier bushing inserts BUT, honda will need to special order them and they are going to cost me about 250$.... so i might as well get some aftermarket pieces i guess. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the OEM LCAs are gonna be the absolute finest quality and offer the best ride quality. For Race cars, some of the expensive name-brand ones are good, but they will hurt both the wallet, and ride quality...
From the image below you can see that there are two different OEM LCAs that will fit your car. One is for cars with rear sway-bars and/or ABS (#7,10), and the other is for cars without those two items (#8). The ones with the sway-bar holes are different left-to-right, so you would have to get both part numbers to get them. I'm gonna have to assume that you went to your local dealership to get quoted the outrageous amount of $250 for two. You should get more familiar with on-line discount OEM parts dealerships like HondaPartsDeals.com, SLHondaParts.com, HondaAutomotiveParts, and a few others I don't remember.
Example: HondaPartsDeals.com has the following prices:
#8----> 52350-SR0-A10 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $178.14
#7----> 52360-SH3-G21 ARM, L. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
#10---> 52350-SH3-G21 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
I don't know why the crappy version #8 is so much more, but I would never buy it. Also, just replacing individual bushings that are bad can save money as long as your not replacing all three in each arm. You will have to have them pressed by a professional that knows what they're doing...
PS: The trick to getting bushings to last, is to only tighten & torque the suspension bolts with the car on the ground or the suspension fully loaded by a jack. Otherwise the bushings twist up when you put the car on the ground, and they wear out very fast. This is necessary to relive this twist whenever you change the ride height of the car too...
Yes, the OEM LCAs are gonna be the absolute finest quality and offer the best ride quality. For Race cars, some of the expensive name-brand ones are good, but they will hurt both the wallet, and ride quality...
From the image below you can see that there are two different OEM LCAs that will fit your car. One is for cars with rear sway-bars and/or ABS (#7,10), and the other is for cars without those two items (#8). The ones with the sway-bar holes are different left-to-right, so you would have to get both part numbers to get them. I'm gonna have to assume that you went to your local dealership to get quoted the outrageous amount of $250 for two. You should get more familiar with on-line discount OEM parts dealerships like HondaPartsDeals.com, SLHondaParts.com, HondaAutomotiveParts, and a few others I don't remember.
Example: HondaPartsDeals.com has the following prices:
#8----> 52350-SR0-A10 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $178.14
#7----> 52360-SH3-G21 ARM, L. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
#10---> 52350-SH3-G21 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
I don't know why the crappy version #8 is so much more, but I would never buy it. Also, just replacing individual bushings that are bad can save money as long as your not replacing all three in each arm. You will have to have them pressed by a professional that knows what they're doing...
PS: The trick to getting bushings to last, is to only tighten & torque the suspension bolts with the car on the ground or the suspension fully loaded by a jack. Otherwise the bushings twist up when you put the car on the ground, and they wear out very fast. This is necessary to relive this twist whenever you change the ride height of the car too...
03-16-2007, 10:58 AM
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PS: The trick to getting bushings to last, is to only tighten & torque the suspension bolts with the car on the ground or the suspension fully loaded by a jack. Otherwise the bushings twist up when you put the car on the ground, and they wear out very fast. This is necessary to relive this twist whenever you change the ride height of the car too... </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have heard about the pre-unloading method but is this also reccommended for the front bushings as well?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, the OEM LCAs are gonna be the absolute finest quality and offer the best ride quality. For Race cars, some of the expensive name-brand ones are good, but they will hurt both the wallet, and ride quality...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will check those OEM part dealer web pages but i do have a drop (2.5") and i am going to be attending auto-x meets in the next few months... so would you still reccommend OEM bushings/ LCA?... Im sure can handle a slighly less comfy ride cuz my car isnt a caddie what so ever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
#8----> 52350-SR0-A10 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $178.14
#7----> 52360-SH3-G21 ARM, L. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
#10---> 52350-SH3-G21 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
I don't know why the crappy version #8 is so much more, but I would never buy it. Also, just replacing individual bushings that are bad can save money as long as your not replacing all three in each arm. You will have to have them pressed by a professional that knows what they're doing...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i definitley have #8 in the pic above w/ no sway bar.... im assuming they are interchangeable right?... even if i didnt use a rear sway bar.
PS: The trick to getting bushings to last, is to only tighten & torque the suspension bolts with the car on the ground or the suspension fully loaded by a jack. Otherwise the bushings twist up when you put the car on the ground, and they wear out very fast. This is necessary to relive this twist whenever you change the ride height of the car too... </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have heard about the pre-unloading method but is this also reccommended for the front bushings as well?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, the OEM LCAs are gonna be the absolute finest quality and offer the best ride quality. For Race cars, some of the expensive name-brand ones are good, but they will hurt both the wallet, and ride quality...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will check those OEM part dealer web pages but i do have a drop (2.5") and i am going to be attending auto-x meets in the next few months... so would you still reccommend OEM bushings/ LCA?... Im sure can handle a slighly less comfy ride cuz my car isnt a caddie what so ever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
#8----> 52350-SR0-A10 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $178.14
#7----> 52360-SH3-G21 ARM, L. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
#10---> 52350-SH3-G21 ARM, R. RR. (LOWER) $65.47
I don't know why the crappy version #8 is so much more, but I would never buy it. Also, just replacing individual bushings that are bad can save money as long as your not replacing all three in each arm. You will have to have them pressed by a professional that knows what they're doing...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i definitley have #8 in the pic above w/ no sway bar.... im assuming they are interchangeable right?... even if i didnt use a rear sway bar.
03-16-2007, 11:32 AM
#5
Re: (liquid:cooled)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have heard about the pre-unloading method but is this also reccommended for the front bushings as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's HIGHLY recommended for EVERY bushing that has a bolt going through the center of it. This only excludes the rear trailing arm bushings and rear UCA inner bushings. These bushings must be "clocked" to relieve the extra twist. This is the primary reason the rear trailing arm bushings go to **** so quickly on lowered cars. If you replace them, stay OEM rubber (clocked to proper position), since poly is proven to bind up in this location.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i will check those OEM part dealer web pages but i do have a drop (2.5") and i am going to be attending auto-x meets in the next few months... so would you still reccommend OEM bushings/ LCA?... Im sure can handle a slighly less comfy ride cuz my car isnt a caddie what so ever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a 2.5" drop as well on my street civic. If your auto-xing then build your car to a specific class rules and use whatever parts the winners are using. If your not competing in a specific class and just doing a run-for-fun, then it doesn't matter what you use. I would definitely stay OEM rubber in that case...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i definitley have #8 in the pic above w/ no sway bar.... im assuming they are interchangeable right?... even if i didnt use a rear sway bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah they are interchangable. They sway-mount LCAs are the exact same ones that come on all 94-01 Integras (except Type R). The only difference is the bend to rout the ABS wires, and the Sway-bar mount holes. I would definitely get the ones with the sway-mounts since they are cheaper, and you will want to add a rear sway-bar for auto-xing... I also forgot to mention, the Sway-mount LCAs also have stiffer bushings with metal reinforcements inside the rubber.
i have heard about the pre-unloading method but is this also reccommended for the front bushings as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's HIGHLY recommended for EVERY bushing that has a bolt going through the center of it. This only excludes the rear trailing arm bushings and rear UCA inner bushings. These bushings must be "clocked" to relieve the extra twist. This is the primary reason the rear trailing arm bushings go to **** so quickly on lowered cars. If you replace them, stay OEM rubber (clocked to proper position), since poly is proven to bind up in this location.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i will check those OEM part dealer web pages but i do have a drop (2.5") and i am going to be attending auto-x meets in the next few months... so would you still reccommend OEM bushings/ LCA?... Im sure can handle a slighly less comfy ride cuz my car isnt a caddie what so ever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a 2.5" drop as well on my street civic. If your auto-xing then build your car to a specific class rules and use whatever parts the winners are using. If your not competing in a specific class and just doing a run-for-fun, then it doesn't matter what you use. I would definitely stay OEM rubber in that case...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i definitley have #8 in the pic above w/ no sway bar.... im assuming they are interchangeable right?... even if i didnt use a rear sway bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah they are interchangable. They sway-mount LCAs are the exact same ones that come on all 94-01 Integras (except Type R). The only difference is the bend to rout the ABS wires, and the Sway-bar mount holes. I would definitely get the ones with the sway-mounts since they are cheaper, and you will want to add a rear sway-bar for auto-xing...
I also forgot to mention, the Sway-mount LCAs also have stiffer bushings with metal reinforcements inside the rubber.
03-16-2007, 06:44 PM
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Re: (dinko)
94eg ... .... so lets say i decided to go aftermarket because i might be leaning towards the bling factor associated with the anodized R-LCA.. which bushings would hold up after abuse?... (rubber or polyurethane) and then a specific LCA manufacturer.
also, is it nessecary to use grease when re-assembeling a rubber or poly-urethane LCA... and if it isnt nessecary with either types, would using the grease increase bushing longevity?
.... so lets say i decided to go aftermarket because i might be leaning towards the bling factor associated with the anodized R-LCA.. which bushings would hold up after abuse?... (rubber or polyurethane) and then a specific LCA manufacturer.also, is it nessecary to use grease when re-assembeling a rubber or poly-urethane LCA... and if it isnt nessecary with either types, would using the grease increase bushing longevity?
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03-16-2007, 07:06 PM
#9
Re: (liquid:cooled)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94eg ... .... so lets say i decided to go aftermarket because i might be leaning towards the bling factor associated with the anodized R-LCA.. which bushings would hold up after abuse?... (rubber or polyurethane) and then a specific LCA manufacturer.
also, is it nessecary to use grease when re-assembeling a rubber or poly-urethane LCA... and if it isnt nessecary with either types, would using the grease increase bushing longevity?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have to use grease on Poly because the inner sleeve rotates inside the poly bushing allowing the suspension to move. If you didn't grease them, they would wear out very quickly and squeek like crazy. Rubber requires no grease since the rubber just twists, and there is no friction surface at all. I can say that you definently want to put anti-sieze on ALL suspension bolts. They tend to rust solid to the insides of the bushings in the rear suspension. If you don't have any problems removing all 6, consider yourself VERY luck...
As for which brand LCA to go with, I have no idea. I'm not really into those things, so I don't know that much. I can say that Megan racing is total crap and I hear nothing but complaints. Also, Function-7 is probably the best, but your gonna pay out the nose for 'em...
And when it comes to bushings type, whatever LCA you buy will already come with bushings installed. You have to read about each one to find out what they come with, and then search to see if they are any good...
.... so lets say i decided to go aftermarket because i might be leaning towards the bling factor associated with the anodized R-LCA.. which bushings would hold up after abuse?... (rubber or polyurethane) and then a specific LCA manufacturer.also, is it nessecary to use grease when re-assembeling a rubber or poly-urethane LCA... and if it isnt nessecary with either types, would using the grease increase bushing longevity?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have to use grease on Poly because the inner sleeve rotates inside the poly bushing allowing the suspension to move. If you didn't grease them, they would wear out very quickly and squeek like crazy. Rubber requires no grease since the rubber just twists, and there is no friction surface at all. I can say that you definently want to put anti-sieze on ALL suspension bolts. They tend to rust solid to the insides of the bushings in the rear suspension. If you don't have any problems removing all 6, consider yourself VERY luck...
As for which brand LCA to go with, I have no idea. I'm not really into those things, so I don't know that much. I can say that Megan racing is total crap and I hear nothing but complaints. Also, Function-7 is probably the best, but your gonna pay out the nose for 'em...
And when it comes to bushings type, whatever LCA you buy will already come with bushings installed. You have to read about each one to find out what they come with, and then search to see if they are any good...
03-16-2007, 07:16 PM
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to use grease on Poly because the inner sleeve rotates inside the poly bushing allowing the suspension to move. If you didn't grease them, they would wear out very quickly and squeek like crazy. Rubber requires no grease since the rubber just twists, and there is no friction surface at all. I can say that you definently want to put anti-sieze on ALL suspension bolts. They tend to rust solid to the insides of the bushings in the rear suspension. If you don't have any problems removing all 6, consider yourself VERY luck...
As for which brand LCA to go with, I have no idea. I'm not really into those things, so I don't know that much. I can say that Megan racing is total crap and I hear nothing but complaints. Also, Function-7 is probably the best, but your gonna pay out the nose for 'em...
And when it comes to bushings type, whatever LCA you buy will already come with bushings installed. You have to read about each one to find out what they come with, and then search to see if they are any good...</TD></TR></TABLE>
ohhhh belive me, i know all about siezed bolts in the LCA...(common problem) i actually had to get some used (oem) ones because i couldnt get the bolt out for the strut-LCA connection... then i had to get new struts when i put on my lowering springs. so, the ones on my eh2 (OEM) were used but im not sure how many miles... were worn out even before i put em on. I actually used some LUBRO-MOLY i had laying around for all the R-LCA bolts, i hope that nighmare will never happen agian.
im leaning towards the POLY bushings i guess just cuz i really want whatever will last the longest.. (assuming POLY lasts longer because they dont flex with suspension movement).
As for which brand LCA to go with, I have no idea. I'm not really into those things, so I don't know that much. I can say that Megan racing is total crap and I hear nothing but complaints. Also, Function-7 is probably the best, but your gonna pay out the nose for 'em...
And when it comes to bushings type, whatever LCA you buy will already come with bushings installed. You have to read about each one to find out what they come with, and then search to see if they are any good...</TD></TR></TABLE>
ohhhh belive me, i know all about siezed bolts in the LCA...(common problem) i actually had to get some used (oem) ones because i couldnt get the bolt out for the strut-LCA connection... then i had to get new struts when i put on my lowering springs. so, the ones on my eh2 (OEM) were used but im not sure how many miles... were worn out even before i put em on. I actually used some LUBRO-MOLY i had laying around for all the R-LCA bolts, i hope that nighmare will never happen agian.
im leaning towards the POLY bushings i guess just cuz i really want whatever will last the longest.. (assuming POLY lasts longer because they dont flex with suspension movement).
03-17-2007, 01:12 PM
#11
Re: (liquid:cooled)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im leaning towards the POLY bushings i guess just cuz i really want whatever will last the longest.. (assuming POLY lasts longer because they dont flex with suspension movement).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
With poly, there actually is a "wear" surface since the sleeve is sliding around inside. I can't comment on how long they last though since I've never used them...
im leaning towards the POLY bushings i guess just cuz i really want whatever will last the longest.. (assuming POLY lasts longer because they dont flex with suspension movement).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
With poly, there actually is a "wear" surface since the sleeve is sliding around inside. I can't comment on how long they last though since I've never used them...
03-17-2007, 01:34 PM
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With poly, there actually is a "wear" surface since the sleeve is sliding around inside. I can't comment on how long they last though since I've never used them...</TD></TR></TABLE>
If anyone knows which one wears out quicker that would help a lot.... It does seem like the RUBBER might because its softer and easy to flex, but then at the same time POLY has a metal bearing in it that rotates with suspension movement...... so has anyone used POLY for like 4+ years and they are holdin up still, what bout rubber?
here is a skunk2 LCA using a POLY bushing... has anyone used these yet?..
[/QUOTE]
Modified by liquid:cooled at 5:32 PM 3/17/2007
If anyone knows which one wears out quicker that would help a lot.... It does seem like the RUBBER might because its softer and easy to flex, but then at the same time POLY has a metal bearing in it that rotates with suspension movement...... so has anyone used POLY for like 4+ years and they are holdin up still, what bout rubber?
here is a skunk2 LCA using a POLY bushing... has anyone used these yet?..
[/QUOTE]Modified by liquid:cooled at 5:32 PM 3/17/2007
03-18-2007, 04:36 PM
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Re: (allricedout)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allricedout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just ordered some from a vendor online.. they will be here sometime next week, ill let you know how the quality and ride will be.. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rahxephon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just ordered these Skunk2 with poly bushings...</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowcivex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just installed the skunks because my megans took a **** they seem ok but i reallly cant give you an opinion because they havnt been on that long</TD></TR></TABLE>
damm.. well i wonder how long they last
damm.. well i wonder how long they last
03-18-2007, 09:20 PM
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Re: (94eg!)
FYI those bling tastic LCA's are going to bumb you into some outragous class in autoX. I don't know if you care but just thought i would let you know.
FYI i would buy the new OEM ones and get out to the autox ASAP
FYI i would buy the new OEM ones and get out to the autox ASAP
03-19-2007, 05:01 AM
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Re: (slammed_93_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI those bling tastic LCA's are going to bumb you into some outragous class in autoX. I don't know if you care but just thought i would let you know.
FYI i would buy the new OEM ones and get out to the autox ASAP</TD></TR></TABLE>
doesn't really concern me, my car being stripped and the carbon hood already pretty much screw me. i'm just in it for the fun...
FYI i would buy the new OEM ones and get out to the autox ASAP</TD></TR></TABLE>
doesn't really concern me, my car being stripped and the carbon hood already pretty much screw me. i'm just in it for the fun...
03-19-2007, 08:06 AM
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Re: (liquid:cooled)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid:cooled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If anyone knows which one wears out quicker that would help a lot.... It does seem like the RUBBER might because its softer and easy to flex, but then at the same time POLY has a metal bearing in it that rotates with suspension movement...... so has anyone used POLY for like 4+ years and they are holdin up still, what bout rubber?
here is a skunk2 LCA using a POLY bushing... has anyone used these yet?..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ohh, ahh, another Function-7 design copy. Nice.
To answer the original poster, I use F7 LCAs on my HPDE/Auto-x car, and stock on my street car.
If anyone knows which one wears out quicker that would help a lot.... It does seem like the RUBBER might because its softer and easy to flex, but then at the same time POLY has a metal bearing in it that rotates with suspension movement...... so has anyone used POLY for like 4+ years and they are holdin up still, what bout rubber?
here is a skunk2 LCA using a POLY bushing... has anyone used these yet?..
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ohh, ahh, another Function-7 design copy. Nice.
To answer the original poster, I use F7 LCAs on my HPDE/Auto-x car, and stock on my street car.
03-19-2007, 06:05 PM
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Re: (slammed_93_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI those bling tastic LCA's are going to bumb you into some outragous class in autoX. I don't know if you care but just thought i would let you know.
FYI i would buy the new OEM ones and get out to the autox ASAP</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i know but i already have altered suspension and crap, im not concerned about rules and regulations i just need something that will last a long time through turns and abuse...
FYI i would buy the new OEM ones and get out to the autox ASAP</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i know but i already have altered suspension and crap, im not concerned about rules and regulations i just need something that will last a long time through turns and abuse...
03-21-2007, 12:29 PM
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Re: (lowcivex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowcivex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just installed the skunks because my megans took a **** they seem ok but i reallly cant give you an opinion because they havnt been on that long</TD></TR></TABLE>
My OEM bushings have over 90k miles on them. They're just starting to show some cracking ... I wonder how many mils those Megans had on them
My OEM bushings have over 90k miles on them. They're just starting to show some cracking ... I wonder how many mils those Megans had on them
03-21-2007, 06:54 PM
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Re: (nonsense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My OEM bushings have over 90k miles on them. They're just starting to show some cracking ... I wonder how many mils those Megans had on them </TD></TR></TABLE>
i havent heard anything positive about lower megan... have you ever seen thier LCA? .... the bushing is held in by a single allen bolt.
im thinking about the skunk2 LCA now because i havent heard anything negative about them and the have decent prices...
</TD></TR></TABLE>i havent heard anything positive about lower megan... have you ever seen thier LCA? .... the bushing is held in by a single allen bolt.
im thinking about the skunk2 LCA now because i havent heard anything negative about them and the have decent prices...