so i took a video.

i used my favorite method, 3lb sledge hammer. youll see how easy it is on a tie rod end. its the same with the lower and upper balljoint.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson...1.wmv

then i got to use the official honda balljoint separater tool. it was easy too. i would prefer it over the hammer method, EXCEPT its kind of expensive. in all, i think its just easier to just have a 3lb hammer available to pop off a balljoint.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson...2.wmv

feel free to host it on youtube or distribute wherever. i dont care.

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good info!

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That's what I do everytime. I use a 22 mm wrench I have laying around. Peice of cake.

I don't see why people ever have trouble with it.

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Now I've seen guys with lifts in the shop use the hammer method, but they're able to stand up and get a good angle and take good swings.

On the ground in my driveway, it's never worked.

I use the ball joint seperator (pitman arm puller, not pickle-fork) almost all of the time as a result.

Great videos Tyson!

Modified by Jonathan_ED3 at 11:27 PM 3/5/2007

Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »

That's what I do everytime. I use a 22 mm wrench I have laying around. Peice of cake. I don't see why people ever have trouble with it.

If it's so great, then please explain how you would you get the entire knuckle off with that method? It only works on the LOWER ball-joint.

1.) Use a "Pittman arm puller" from an autoparts store. Mine was $7.99, works great. Some places might loan them out too.

And if a puller is not available:

2.) Take off the castle nut, turn it over and screw it back on a little ways to where its flat edge is even with the flat base of the stud. Whack it upwards with the hammer from below, using a piece of wood to cushion the nut and stud from being damaged.

I've found that even with the pitman arm puller, it's best for me to turn the castle nut upside down and thread it back onto the joint.

In my experience it seems to preserve the threads better than leaving it right-side-up.

Have you had similar results?

Quote, originally posted by civictrix »

good vids, and great info. Now what about when u try to take the castle nut off and the whole ball joint just spins

I Had that problem. Try clamping the U/LCA down to the knuckle to put more force onto the ball joint (I used vise grips). That should keep it from spinning and allow you to take the nut off. If not... it's time to take the cutting wheel to the grinder...and then the grinder to the nut.

Or just do a DA brake swap with new UCA's.

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Quote, originally posted by civictrix »

Now what about when u try to take the castle nut off and the whole ball joint just spins

use an impact wrench.

then rethread the nut with a tap.

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Try clamping it down first...

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Yep, even with the pittman puller I flipped the bolt too, just to avoid any potential damage to the threads. And it helps prevent it from jumping out too.

Quote, originally posted by civictrix »

good vids, and great info. Now what about when u try to take the castle nut off and the whole ball joint just spins

Try cutting a flat-head screwdriver notch in the end of the stud with a dremmel (before you hack the whole thing up). Hold the stud with the screwdriver, and take the nut off with a wrench. Once you get it off, it's best to chase the stud threads with a die if this is where the problem threads are. If the problem threads are in the nut, just replace it...

You want to put the jack under the LCA to support it. Then have a friend press downward on the rotor. This creates added pressure between the LCA and the stud to help keep it from spinning. I've gone as far as installing the wheel and standing on the lip of the rim for extra pressure. If your wheel doesn't have a lip, stand atop the tire. Just be careful as the wheel can spin & your friend will quickly hit the floor...