Questions and comments welcome!

Modified by RallySol at 6:38 AM 11/9/2006

Hows it drive?

Love the spare.

You know what would make a good story? Something about a clown who makes people happy, but inside he's real sad. Also, he has severe diarrhea.

They need to be made cool some how.

Also how large do you think the exhaust can be?

EF Sedan Squad #183
91 Civic DX Sedan:DD_97 Integra GS:Stolen_90 Integra LS:Sold_95 Del Sol Si:Traded

I don't really know how much power is possible, I guess that would depend on what people in the CRV community have already done. I believe the weakest point to be the CRV's rear inboard CV joints. They're tiny. I'm afraid I'll snap them if I try to do a four wheel burnout with sticky tires on pavement.

Clearance. Lots of clearance. Inches and Inches of clearance, its just awsome how well the transmission and transfercase fit in the engine bay. The cat is hanging in the stock location in the pic below, but you can see how much clearance the transfercase output has from the front crossmember and steering rack.

I think I'm probably $4500 in it as far as parts are conserned. Manual 4wd CRV transmissions are hard to come by, I went to HAP for mine as well as all the other CRV bits. I think it was $1100 out the door for the transmission and transfercase, $850 for the rear diff, $250 for the drive shaft and about $100 each for the rear axles.

If I did this sort of thing for a living, instead of trying to fit it in around an 8-5 job, it probably could have been done in a week if all the parts and metal stock were available. I couldn't source the upper engine bracket for the B series so I ended up fabbing the three main mounts. Unfortunately in doing so I had to space the two lower mounts so the engine and transmission tilt forward about an inch more than it should. I probably spent 5 or 6 hours on them, which I could have saved if the proper brackets were available

Right now the exhaust on the car is 2.25" and having it tucked up above the bottom of the frame rails leaves about an 1/8" space between the body on one side and the carrier bearing bracket on the other. If ground clearance wasn't that big of an issue, I suppose you could use 2.5 or -maybe- 3", but it would be -really- tight.

Braille Auto Integra? I can't say that I've ever heard of that car. Wouldn't happen to have any info or linkage available, would you?

Under the hood:

The interior:



Modified by RallySol at 6:40 AM 11/9/2006

The way its supposed to work goes something like this. There are two pumps, one driven by the input comming from the front of the car and the other driven by the pinion in the differential itself. Inbetween these two pumps is a wet clutch pack. When the input from the front is more than equal to that of the rear, when the front tires slip and spin faster than the rear, the clutch pack locks up and you have 4wd. This works in reverse as well. When the front and rear pumps are equal, the clutchpack is supposed to unlock and when there is no pressure, when the car isn't moving, then its supposed to be completely free. Its not speed sensitive, its slip sensitive. Honda did this because apparently it boosts gas mileage when the clutchpack isn't locked up.

I'll have to take a pic of the rear mount sometime today since I haven't taken one yet.

Modified by RallySol at 6:40 AM 11/9/2006

SCAMMER LIST:
98TEG2NV
FowDow
theone_6010239
zeimbo (Douche x999)

I probably won't take it to a show until after its been painted. Looks all very POS-like right now.

Thanks for all the compliments!

http://media.putfile.com/AWD-Test-2

Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter »

Oh man, that's an awesome project. I can't wait to see the LSVTEC-Boost setup on it!

#004 EFSFTMFW!