This is an informational thread. We try to stay on topic and discuss anything engine bay related. This post has reference info at the bottom to make everyones life easier. If you have any info you'd like to contribute, feel free to post it, or PM me, and I'll add it.
Quote, originally posted by Pworld »
Who cares if its polished, chrome, or gold, its a personal expression of the car builder, his canvas to paint his picture that he wants to paint. If its done tastefully, I'm all for it.
Phew, all done... this harness is the hardest ive made as of yet...
Let me clear up some stuff for everyone. The wire is milspec, its very expensive... I did the harness in a power/ground/signal setup, so thats why there is 3 colors. Its not hard at all to diagnose with a multimeter. All wires are new, and military grade. The pins are all new, and it took me a crazy long time to source them all... I really dont want to give any pins out, plus I have a limited supply. Someone also asked me on another forum why I thought it was the hardest harness as of yet... if you havent made a harness all the way back to the ecu with all new wires, and expensive parts that you dont want to ruin, dont ask
People also asked where the back half is on this harness, I do have it made, but its not cut into the firewall yet, there will be pix soon. I leave that half in just zipties, so if changes ever need to be made, they can be made on that end.
If anyone ever looks at the wiring harness on a exotic race spec car, Porsche/ bmw they will notice similar characteristics between the harnesses, thats the look I was going for... Some people are gunna say this is overkill, and it sure is, but this is what I do for a living, and excess is necessary.
Slappy on FLARE TOOLS Don't skimp out on good tools. Getting a cheap tool isn't worth the "possible "consequences later if they happen. Jesse(I_Hate_JDM) is right, the Rigid tool is very nice and well worth the money. It's pretty much dummy proof when making a flare.
I'm gonna be using the braided loom from cableorganizer.com (http://cableorganizer.com/fray-resistant/#B) when I do my harness... and I just ordered my Odyssey PC680MJT!
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
WRITE UP: How to convert your fuel lines and ugly filter to Stainless -6AN hoses
I tried alot of different kinds and my favorite was actually this 80 grit stuff from home depot. (to sand filler down) It kept its grit the longest. Its like whiteish with blueish dots somewhat.
After u get it shaped you sand it with 320 so theres no sanding scratches. I liked the home depot stuff best again.
Then for wetsanding primer i used 3m jobpack 600grit and it worked good. Then wetsanding the clear i used 1600 and 2000 3m jobpack.
Quote, originally posted by Slappy »
You asked for it...........91631-SR3-000 I work @ Honda....if you need anything Matt, just hit me up on AIM.
You should NEVER NEVER NEVER use a caulk gun style seam sealer, use the 2 part sealer, it is more durable and will last 10x's longer as it DOES NOT shrink. It is catalyzed to harden and the single part shit is not.
Quote, originally posted by hybridzOr »
Seam Sealer Replacement
sem makes a good 2 part seam sealer.... part# 39337
Quote, originally posted by h22apwrdcivic »
Blocking the coolant ports pg 356 & 357
Quote, originally posted by Slappy »
Heater Core Plug Here ya go..............
#1 is 12208-PR3-000
#2 is 12209-PR3-000
Quote, originally posted by B16B_coupe »
ps: i think you should add this to the front page. its the fuse box wire hole cover honda part number 91610-sf4-003 was on a ek.. might fit others.
Quote, originally posted by stillrockin18s »
Cheaper alternative the the PC-680 (Odyssey) dry cell battery
Planning on using it on my rarely driven show DA with a kill switch for storage.
Its between this or the odessy battery, this ones cheaper which would help since christmas is around the corner and I haven't started shopping yet, LOL!
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
Cheaper alternative the the PC-680
Check out their disclaimer...
"SPECIAL NOTE This battery is much lower cost than a comparable brand that rhymes with "Modyssey" We cannot tell you the brand, but you may figure it out.
Someone is unhappy with us selling our batteries...you may be also be able to figure who that is as well.
This completely comparable battery is lower cost only because it does not have a half a dozen margin hungry companies in the food chain driving the cost to the consumer beyond reasonable levels.
You be the judge....pay more for a over-distributed brand, or get a replacement with the same specifications and performance for 1/2 the price."
lol
I'd say give it a shot.
Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »
Brake Proportioning Valve Diagram.
To answer future questions about this....
I talked to Fast Brakes the other day and they said both chambers in the Honda master cylinder are the same size; (15/16) in my case. Therefore it does not matter which port on the MC goes to either input on the prop. valve. (The rear outputs still have to go the the rear, front to the fronts and input's to the MC.)
Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »
Quick question, does it matter if the front output of the brake MC goes to the opisite input on the prop valve? Just like theoretically switching the front MC line to the back and the back to the front... Looking in the Helms to try and figure out now but figured I would ask.
Thanks
OK, I'm thinking it does not matter so I am going to go off that... If someone knows otherwise PLEASE let me know asap so I dont wast my time bleading and all that for the bias to be off. Here is an image for reference. Just by looking at the desgin of the prop valve I am thinking it doesn't matter. http://www.we-todd-did-racing....e.jpg
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
Charcoal Canister
Thanks to Dumpgears for sourcing these quotes/info.
Quote, originally posted by NathanMorris » when you guys are taking out the charcoal canister stuff on the firewall - how are you dealing with that? IE: what are you doing with the fuel vapors, how are you setting up the PCV vent, etc. As many details about this would be wonderful as I'm looking to get rid of that set of big ugly black boxes if possible. Nathan
Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle » have mine Routing out the side of my car.. its attached the the Front passanger Lift point so that the vapors are not coming into the cabin
Quote, originally posted by not so JDM Dan » when i converted my fuel lines to stainless steel under the car, the smallest hard line which is the vent tube for the charcoal canister i cut at the back of the car near the tank and i ran a rubber hose back along the trailing arm. all the vapors vent out behind the car
Quote, originally posted by Weak!EG »
Example of Braided Brake Lines
DONE MY CHASE MCMASTER (EF8kid)
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
Example of Hard Brake Lines
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
Example of Hard Brake Lines
Quote, originally posted by Weak!EG »
BRAKE LINE TUCK WRITE UP I took the time to compile a small base of information for a general brake line tuck write up.
hopefully it will keep a lot of the same questions and confusion out of this thread.
enjoy and if you have any suggestions please post.
Quote, originally posted by GarretCRX »
BRAKE LINE TUCK - NO LINES IN ENG BAY I think this is the location for an EF brake-line-tuck.
Quote, originally posted by 8520 »
A ton of the factory honda service manuals.
Quick link for you guys. Found this website that has a ton of the factory honda service manuals including wiring diagrams etc. You do have to register for the site to download the manuals, but there is no charge whatsoever.
http://www.terminalsupplyco.com They don't list their pricing on their site (which I know can be an inconvenience) but I know if you request a price quote and ask them to beat Del City or Waytek pricing they usually can. Sometimes there are minimum quantities for that pricing tho.
All 3 carry a wide variety of fittings/connectors/loom/shink tubing.
Quote, originally posted by MidwestSiR »
Battery Relocation
Just a few parts to help ease your relocating and give ideas:
HOLE IN FIREWALL FOR TUCK HARNESS QUOTE=JSPECSIR i may have missed this somewhere in the almost 500 pages, but does anybody have any pics of the firewall harness after is modded to exit in the center to go out under the hood, mainly inside of the car side of the firewall. and where is the best place to go out of the firewall if im keepin heat, right below the heater core hole maybe? thanks for any input and if i missed it please let me know what page it was on. /QUOTE
You didn't state which chassis, but heres my EK:
(no not finished wiring)
(no not finished hole)
Quote, originally posted by B16B_coupe »
first you got the ac plug: part#91631-SR3-000 second this plug covers the stock engine harness hole/pass healight harness hole part #91610-sf4-003 pic
driver side plug part#90621-SE0-000 pic
Continued on next two posts...
Modified by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- at 9:53 PM 4/3/2008
Modified by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- at 11:23 AM 5/9/2008
Modified by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- at 11:49 AM 6/2/2008
Modified by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- at 7:24 AM 6/10/2008
Modified by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- at 10:01 AM 6/30/2008
Brake lines behind firewall (completed). Rear lines are SS untill they go behind the subframe, then they go back to hard lines all the way back. All other lines are SS.
Page 66
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
all brake/clutch lines are 3/16" line with m10x1.0 fittings, if you want to run an fittings run -3 tube sleeves/nuts. the only brake line not m10x1.0 is the front fitting on an abs master cylinder is actually m12x1.5. it still uses 3/16" line tho.
Page 88
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
I planned on using stainless hardline, but I didn't want to spend a ton of money on the flare tool. Then I decided I didn't like the look of the rear hardlines being inside the car (since the int is stripped) so I decided after I get it dipped I'll redo them with braided.
I have also heard about leakage problems. That's usually caused by the flare being done wrong: either the wrong degree of flare, or the end of the flare cracking do to overflaredness.
(substitute one -6an hose end for a 45 deg one) EAR-230206ERL Fuel Filter, Inline Mount, Blue, 85 Microns, -6 AN Male Inlet/Outlet, 1 EAR-581805ERL Fitting, Tube Nut, -5 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair, 1 EAR-581905ERL Fitting, Adapter, Tube Sleeve -5 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair, 1 EAR-991907ERL Fitting, Union Reducer, Male -6 AN to Male -5 AN, Male, Aluminum, Blue, 1 EAR-991945ERL Fitting, Carburetor Inlet, -6 AN Male to 12mm x 1.25 Male, Aluminum, Blue, 1 SUM-220690 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, 4 SUM-G1001 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 18 in. Length, 2
whole setup cost a little under 100 bucks including the new filter
I want to relocate the brake lines, but I'm scared of messing with them... haha.
Anyone have good pictures of how they relocated their brake lines and what kinds of lines they used? Thanks.
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
Go look at the page before this for pics of mine. They sell all differents lengths of line @ your auto parts store and theyre like 5 bucks a peice. 3/16th size line for japanese/metric/import etc...I bent them with my hands!
Page 62
Quote, originally posted by kidkombo »
dood the hardlines will kink when you re route them....they are already bent in intricate ways, there is no way in hell you can do a clean tuck behind the firewall...so yes i think its a stupid question as well lol all you need is a tubing bender, tube nuts and sleeves and a ton of reverse flare -3 fittings to -3male...and you will be set for life!
Quote, originally posted by stillrockin18s »
Where can I pick up some metal brake lines and fittings online so I can tuck my portioning valve and brake lines. I prefer just straight pieces, my boy has a good bender and flaring tool.
Also can the portioning valve be mounted on its side? I am thinking of tucking them under the wiper cowl.
Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic »
the metal lines and fittings can be picked up at your local autozone or whatever autoparts store you have, the lines come in rolls, and you can buy it by the foot or however much you need. at least here anyway.
usc icing is an example of a filler you can use. all polyester fillers are pretty much the same, it comes down to what they sell at your local auto parts store. i use evercoat products.
Quote, originally posted by fventura03 »
do you (or anyone else) recommend using this on the shock towers and to cover small bolt holes in the engine bay? i'm trying to make my engine bay as clean as possible, but i dont want it to start cracking in a couple of years...
Quote, originally posted by nerdsports »
you need to weld the holes shut first. then grind the weld down. the icing is just a thin layer over the metal surface to cover the imperfections and leave a smooth flowing finish.
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
bondo sucks, i used Evercoat Metal Glaze.
Quote, originally posted by I_HATE_JDM »
evercoat rage extreme filler is your friend.
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
i never use normal fillers anymore. if i absolutely have to use a bunch of filler i use evercoat duraglass, but i like the polyester filler by evercoat. its expensive but it works awsome. it's very thin so you can feather it out quickly. i hate bondo brand products.... wont use them. evercoat has a sweet line of products so they have pretty much something for everyone.
Quote, originally posted by JDMFantasy2k »
Any of you guys that have painted your bays, have you heard/seen/used this stuff??
The Paint/Body special issue of Hot Rod Magazine said as long as it's 1/4 of an inch or less, and the chemicals are mixed correctly, you won't have an issue with cracking. Naturally you want it much thinner than 1/4".
Quote, originally posted by Pandahatch »
I do a LOT of metal work, grinding, smoothing, etc...you don't necessarily have to seam weld. If I have a seam I grind it down almost flush to the panel under it and apply a couple spot welds to minimize distortion and warpage and grind those down, I apply filelr and end up taking off over half of what I apply. It's a long tedious project as well.
Quote, originally posted by ezza »
I was told that when removing the seam sealant stuff you have to weld the seems for strength what exactly does seam welding do, and when you say a couple of spot welds, like 1 per 3 inches?
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
I did ALL sanding by hand on the my Cr-x's bay and the EK bay, cept on the core support like Brian...
oh evercoat metal glaze is kewl.
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
hand sanding with a block is about the best finish you will get, 2nd to an inline sander. rotating sanders tend to make shit wavy if you arent careful. most of the bay you cant even use an inline sander on tho so you have to pick between smaller blocks or rotating sanders. evercoat and usc both have great products, just be sure to use the right product for your application and use it properly.
Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 »
wats a good THICK primer to spray to help fill scratches, i.e. make it easier to see flaws. etc.?
Quote, originally posted by 4d_ek9 »
I dont know if you can get in the US but in the uk i tend to use a brand called U POL and its called reface it awsome stuff you can whallop it on as thick as you wish and it will sag into the inperfections, you can get away with covering 40ish grit marks with it, and when its dry jus guide coat and wet flat it with 500 / 800 depending on how thick u applied it.
Quote, originally posted by Slappy »
My painter used a greenish filler primer(U-POL) that is thicker than your average primer. Once that first coat was layed on, any imperfections were more visible and could be touched up. Then a second coat was applied.
So is it best to use the metal glaze directly on the metal, then sand, then primer, or prime the bare metal, then glaze, then primer again? I know the metal glaze is designed to be used directly on bare metal, but I wasn't sure if one way was better than another. You know, chemical vs. mechanical bond and whatnot.
Quote, originally posted by I_HATE_JDM »
I use evercoat rage extreme and it works very well.
Seam Sealer/Stitch Welding/Welding
Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »
So what are you doing if you remove the seam sealer? I'm sure it has a reason for being there, are you sure it's a good idea to remove it?
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
[QUOTE=JDMFantasy2k]hey how are you guys getting rid of that seam sealer shit that is everywhere?
Most people weld that seam; one for rigidity, two for aesthetics.[/QUOTE]
Quote, originally posted by h22apwrdcivic »
sand blast
Quote, originally posted by hondaboy4life »
or heat it up with a propane torch then wire wheel in places where you can reach.
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
A torch and a wire wheel is actually faster/easier than sand blasting. I've done both. Sandblasting works, but it's time consuming, and time consuming means a lot of sand, and a lot of sand means more money. You can buy a wire wheel (for pneumatic tools, would be best) and a propane torch for under $20. The sheet metal is so thin on our cars I'm reluctant to sand blast in the same area for an extended period of time (like for the thicker seam sealer). Get a little heat in the sealer then hit it with a wire wheel, it'll come right out.
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
I scraped every inch of seam sealer in my entire car mostly with this tool. Small prybar(also works great for seperating spot welds):
well i should ask i just took some seam sealer off and did some welding on the strut tower but i was wondering if you grind your weld down wont it weaken it or should it still be stronger than oem seam sealer was?
Quote, originally posted by donut. »
welding makes the metal weaker in certain areas exept the particular area you weld. make sure you have the right setting
Quote, originally posted by Boosted Rex »
The stuff your looking for is called self-leveling seam sealer. You use this stuff exactly like regular seam sealer BUT the key thing is that it is sandable because it is catalized. It costs about 30 bucks and comes in 2 tubes.
Im up to here in my build now and Im unsure how to tackle it. Like is welding the seams the only options can you take it back flat and smooth it or? any ideas are good
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
The tack's is stitch welding, He did multiple tacks on the one seam as u can see so he could make it all metal work and minimal filler. http://img.photobucket.com/alb...e.jpg
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
The seam sealer is there to prevent water and moisture from getting in there and causing rust. If you stitch weld the seams (1-3" apart), around the strut towers for example, it adds strength to the chassis, as all the panels are tied together. Some choose to weld the entire seam continuously and then grind it down, but Panda is saying that isn't necessary.
Quote, originally posted by hondaboy4life »
with sheet metal u just have to do a series of tack welds. Do one at one side, then another furthest away from the one u just did, then go back and do one 1 inch from the 1st one, etc etc. JUst dont let it get too hot.
Quote, originally posted by sic944t »
i dont know if this will work its a trick my dad talked about from torch welding but you could get a wet wool sock and put it on the back side as a heat sink to prevent some of the warping
Quote, originally posted by civicandy »
But from what i'm told, it's because it's in the middle of a large area, with no support to keep it from warping. Unlike when you do an antenna, which has curved metal around it to keep it from warping.
Quote, originally posted by turbob18si »
water promotes rust, use a piece of copper on the backside of where your welding. Copper is a excellent heat sink and will pull the heat away from where your welding. There is a copper tool for this with a handle. check http://www.eastwoodco.com, they have alot of things that help out on our projects
[H]Wiring/Electrical[/H]
Main Engine Harness Tuck
Page 85
Quote, originally posted by drevinder »
engine baY'S LOOK good..but one question where do u guy's put the driver side harness ...and the passenger side ....make hole somewhere ? if so where..i'm stumped
Quote, originally posted by ECKOTYPER »
what u wanna do is connect the passanger and driver side on the interior side of the firewall, and get all ur connections to come out of a central hole ... i cut a hole about as big as the driver side hole, underneath the heater core, and ran my harness in through that, ( i retained my heater core) so the heatercore hoses kinda disguise the harness below
Quote »
Page 86 [quote=ECKOTYPER]some people ahve been asking me how to do some tucks and stuff, so i made a simple diagram showing more or less hwo a stock engine is routed, and how a tucked one is routed (when i do it) im not getting into detail because if u read this thread instead of looking for pictures theres alot of helpful material in here... heres 1 visual... so please stop asking for help (j.k im glad to help)
Page 88 [QUOTE=SkankyEJ7]
the only thing that MAY (its been talked about but never really proven) affect your engines performance would be altering the length of the wires would be the injectors. so i left the injector wiring the stock length on my harness, but everything else its custom length. and my car runs fine.
Quote, originally posted by Rywire »
What are we looking at?? This is a harness for a bseries obd1 car (ill make them for obd0/2 also) Its basically like a EK harness witout the drivers side shocktower plug. One end is all the engine functions ready for a Bseries with chipped obd1 ecu (to turn off things like vtec oil pressure, eld, and o2 heater). The other end has the ecu /jumper intergrated. It also has the fuse box power wire setup to be used under the dash as well as the drivers side 14pin connector and 2 pin connector ready to be plugged in under the dash out of sight... Feeding it through the firewall can be done easily once the stock harness is removed and pulled inside. This is my first attempt at a tuck harness, and im sure it will improve as I learn more tricks... The only change I can think to make on this is to cover the long loom areas with that shiny plastic covering over split wire loom. Give me feedback on this please, thanks everyone! Oh, and these are not going to be cheap.
What gauge of wire to you need if you are extending the harness?
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
no thicker than it is now, but some of the wires are shielded. why would you ever want to add more wires to a car? most of us are ripping out every wire possible and shortening ones that are required.
Quote, originally posted by Civichatch2k »
Let me rephrase. I may have to extend the headlight harness and the horn. I was just wanting to match the gauge of wire if that has to occur. Other than that I am not doing anything other than tucking the wires.
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
i think most of the wiring is around 18awg. not 100% sure tho. i actually have a box of wire from crap i took out of my harness, when i need wire i look for the same color and size and its normally there.
Tucking Your Headlight Harness Page 100
Quote, originally posted by Civichatch2k »
on the Ek's how are you guys hiding the headlight harnesses.
I know you are running them through the fenders but because they run in the front of the car and then to two main plugs after you get the harness off, what are you doing to re-route them?
I have the harness on the passenger side which is connected to the fuse box and I have the driverside which runs to the fire wall.
on mine, i routed the headlight harness through the drivers side only. All of the wires in the passenger side of the harness are for AC components aside from the wires for the horn and cooling fan. So i ran those wires through the interior, re-pinned them into the connectors on the drivers side, and then ran wires through the harness for them.
After stripping my harness I see that some wires have interference (sp?) insulation, my question is how do you advoid cutting the wires to length for the tuck? (Hope my question is clear).
Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 »
you are referring to RF shield for some of the signals (distributor, knock are two that come to mind quickly).
If you choose to cut these, the best option is to replace the whole length from pin to pin with an already shielded wire. Some have had success with cutting the whole wire, soldering the conductors together, and resoldering the RF braid over top of them... however this is not perfect.
Quote, originally posted by NJcoupe »
Where did u purchase the stuff to re-loom your harness. and what sizes?
Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 »
bought the smaller expandable sleeving from waytek wire, and the larger sleeving locally. The sleeving ranged from 3/16" - 1/2" when collapsed. I also got a few rolls of wire from waytek for some good price Towards the end of assembly, I didnt plan too well and thats why there is electrical tape
The connectors were bought from Allied, along with their crimpers. The two posts on the firewall are for the starter and alternator leads, both 4ga.'
I'll get some better pictures away from my yellow shop light as soon as the weather is nice enough to push the car out
can someone give me some advice on depinning the connectors on the engine harness....i am tryin to put the braided sleeving on and cant get the connectors off. i know to take out the white inner piece, but then i get stuck. anyone got some pics or advice.
Quote, originally posted by Hayce »
Tiny screwdriver or use a de-pinner...
What sleeving are you using? Stuff I used had velco and wrapped around the loom.
Here's looking at the injectors from the opposite side. BRN - RED - BLU - YEL
be sure to double check them with a meter
Quote, originally posted by black88si »
I am having a hell of a time figuring out how to de-pin my injector plugs....
Anybody know if it is even possible?
Quote, originally posted by .adam. »
to depin the injector plugs get some needle noce pliers and pull really really hard on the little white circle tab thing sticking out where the two wires come out.
Quote, originally posted by eblucarbonem1 »
quick question tho, when doing the main harness are you guys just extending wires or are there certain resistances that need to be met? how hard is this exactly any quick tips? thanks
Quote, originally posted by AnToNy »
Shortening or extending a wire does not change the resistance going through it. so it will not make a difference
Quote, originally posted by DC2 Mang »
but there will be a power drop of around .1 volts at the points where you connect and solder
that is why you avoid cutting the o2 sensor wires because their signal to the ecu is between .1 and .9 volts
Quote, originally posted by eblucarbonem1 »
so if im running 770's and doing a tuck harness do i need to run the wires through a custom resistor box or what?
Quote, originally posted by RedZone »
you can use a stock honda resitor box and the wires are already at the end of the harness on the driverside strut box..... its the dead plug with the yellow/black wires....4 wires go to the injectors. If you trace out the wires at the dead plug, one wire will go to each injector. there should also be a power wire at the dead plug that turns on with the key. If you tap into this power wire and connect it to the power wire ont he resistor box and connect the 4 wires from the injectors to the 4 wires on the resistor box you will be able to now use low impedance injectors.
this is all assuming you have a civic or integra with a d or b engine
Pins
Quote, originally posted by ejwan »
finally found the company that does our oem honda pins
its Tyco Amp here is the link to our pin that we need Tyco Amp Pin (Note: Under Instruction Sheets: click on the first link its a PDF file)
Not sure if its P/N 316836 which is the female pin size S. (size M is 316838). this is the 040 series there is also the 070. I don't know the P/N for the male plug yet (if someone know it would be helpful)
and Male pins as Tab Contact [URL]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f272/ejonemydm/DSC05375.jpg[/QUOTE[/URL]] [QUOTE=.dave]
PM user tony1. I believe he has a bunch of the pins.
Distributor Wiring
Page 45
Quote, originally posted by not so JDM Dan »
you shouldnt have to shorten the distributor wires, i ran mine under the manifold and it came out perfect
Quote, originally posted by hayce »
hmm done things a little different,
The wires that come out from the distributor (like your pic there) I have lengthened so the plug is under the manifold (mine orginally were shorter than yours, I aws your pics & believe me I tried )
The problem lies with the other end of the loom. I want to have the 5 plugs from the motor stopping under the heater hoses. Then the cabin side wires that connect to them peaking out a hole ive made there. So with that in mind the length of the wires wrapped up in the black plastic + braid is too long.
Quote, originally posted by not so JDM Dan »
oh i see, hmm so you want to be able to disconnect the engine harness from the engine bay under the heater hoses?
Quote, originally posted by hayce »
Yeah. This is actually my 2nd go as the first time I did it I just ran the wires through the hole and then put the plugs on which, when I pulled the motor left the loom stranded/trapped in the firewall so I had to chop it (hole is not big enough to pass all the plugs through it)
Tucking Your HID Kit
Quote, originally posted by Beau Gotti »
Question for people with HIDs: where is everyone hiding their sh*t
Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7 »
[img=http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/todd-ej7/DSC00676.jpg]http://i17.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg[/img] and dont worry im pretty sure most all HID stuf is water RESISTANT! Noticce i did not say water proof, so im not liable if you try to submegre you hid's and cut them on
no problems so far , but i am using rubber stand offs, rubber washers, 2 reg bolts, 2 nylon bolts, and lock washers all around , might say its over kill, but i dont want my dis-continued HID's falling off on the freeway somewhere as far as mounting, the Catz hid's have 4 bolt hole mounts on each corner, so all i did was drill & tap mounting holes on the frame rails
QUOTE=SHG_EasyE]i ran my auxillary fan and hid wiring through the main harness to the fuse box and dash (for the fan switch) http://i29.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg [url]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/sohondaeg6/P1020691.jpg[/url ] [/QUOTE]
Special Wire Loom (Sleeving)
Quote, originally posted by KILLA_EK9 »
Where do u get this special wire loom thingy??? Anybody..
Quote, originally posted by teamsoy1320 »
it is for computer wire...go to xoxide.com or newegg.com and you can get it there
Quote, originally posted by wEaK Squad *ATL* »
1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", and 1" are the loom sizes I’ve used
Quote, originally posted by BolivianFuego »
Im a little late here, but to all good little boys who ask... Just call Clause...
I went to SVC "www.svc.com" [thanks EF8Kid aka Cha$e aka ballaholic] and just used the black sleeving kit. I have a good amount left over, I just might do a once over on mine so I dont have it as a waste.
Wiring/Soldering Basics
Quote, originally posted by civicandy »
Since most of you guys are so good at wiring, I figured I would ask for tips. My current method is to use flux core solder and a soldering pen. I find that 2 hands is not really enough, since there are 2 wires, the solder and the soldering pen. Tips?
Quote, originally posted by h22apwrdcivic »
get a clothes hanger and solder two aligator clips at two different points then use that to hold the wire tight while you solder. its what i use.
Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 »
I just strip ~.25 - .5" of insulation from the wire, line the two wires up side by side, and twist them lengthwise around each other.
The end result is a soldered section no larger than the insulated wire, with no pointy pieces that could poke through the heat shrink
I doubt a picture is needed, but if you want one lemme know.
Also - hemostats work very well when holding wires while soldering
Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »
I like to strip about 1" or a little more off each wire, make each wire into a hook shape, hook the wire ends together, then twist the ends and solder. That will make the absolute strongest solder joint, but you do end up with a slightly larger diameter than the original wire. If you have lots of wires with solders all next to each other then I guess that could be a problem.
^ correct ^ but dont twist them too tightly because you want the solder to be able to penetrate each thread... solder does NOT sit on top in a bubble... when correctly done, it almost soaks into the wire and itll be very hard to pull apart again
Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »
yep, and to do that, you need to heat up the wire so that the wire itself melts the solder. Don't melt the solder against the iron and let it drip onto the wires.
Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »
PS: Don't forget to slide the heat shrink tube over one of the wires and set it back out of the way while soldering.
Quote, originally posted by h22apwrdcivic »
Oh yeah and you heat the wire and not the solder that way the heat sucks in the solder making a permanent connection.
Ground Wire On Your Valve Cover
Page 60
Quote, originally posted by B18C Turbo »
One thing I have noticed about all these sick bays are no one is using the ground for the valve cover? What are you guys doing, not using one at all or is it invisible? Anyone got pics of where every ground should be? I know of the battery -, valve cover, and tranny.
Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »
Put it on the back VC bolt
Fuse Box Tuck
Page 65
Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 »
Would it be possible to extend the wires, and mount the underhood fusebox in the trunk? I thought about doing this... use 18ga wire to extend the smmaller wires, some 10ga and 8ga for the bigger ones.
Also I have about 20 ft of 0ga for the battery wires, and 4ga to run from the alternator to the fusebox
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
its VERY possible but thats like maybe ten 12 gauge wires, and an 8 gauge... thats alot of wire. not to mention the smaller gauge wires. the wire to the battery itself could be super short tho if you ran a wire right from the battery to the fuse block.
Quote, originally posted by 95jdmej1 »
as for a custom batt. tray do you mean just weld a smaller tray there ?????? What is the hard part about heater box and fuse box ? can i do it myself???
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
section the stock tray so that the bottem is the same size as your battery. if you relocated the fuse box under the dash i bet you could fit the whole battery in the space between the fwall and strut tower(instead of sticking out like oe battery does). with the dash out the heater core, ac evap, and blower motor only have a few nuts and bolts holding them in. you could yank all of it out pretty quick, then just make a panel to weld or rivet in where the heater hose came thru the fwall. i am pretty sure on eg civics you can even put a din block off where the hvac controls were. i am not a fan of removing heat in general, but if you think it's worth it... go for it. there are actually a couple options if you did want to daily drive this car with no oem hvac shit... you can either run a universal heater box so you still have heat and defrost, these are electric so there is no hole in the fwall. the other option is heated windshield. the fuse box relocation is pretty basic but takes a little work, mostly just unwrapping and rewrapping wires. if you are pretty good with wiring give it a shot.
Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 »
just a ?, when relocating fuse box.. how do u get the oem honda plugs through teh firewall?
Quote, originally posted by Madness »
Uhmm.... Definately not. Disconnect them from the box, and push them throught the firewall one at a time.
Quote, originally posted by h22apwrdcivic »
yeah they all disconnect from the fuse box, there are about 5-6 plugs on the back of the fuse box, disconnect and pull them back through the firewall and then reconnect. that was the easiest part. if you figured that part is confusing you might want to cease all further projects.
yeah that took a lot of creativity. Works good though, plus the glove box is still useable
Quote, originally posted by NHswaps13203 »
run no heat haha, wait dont do that thats why i sold that car. [url]http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/961/h2b25uf9.jpg[/ur;]
Low Brake Fluid Switch
Page 69
Quote, originally posted by B18C Turbo »
Just wondering what to do about holes that im drilling to run wires thru. I need to cover the holes with a water tight seal, for example I drilled a hole in the vents in front of the windshield for the wiper wires to go under the dash rather thru the brake booster.
SO now i need to seal that hole up, and seal up the hole where the wires originally came thru to the engine bay, help.
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
brake fluid switch: remove the ground from the ground block and the signal pin from the connector right behind the firewall. then you can just take the switch off the cap and it looks way cleaner. if you dont notice your brake fluid low on your own maybe cars aren't your thing. ahaha. wiper wiring: is a bitch. the best way to do it is cut a rectangle around the grommet hole already there, then another rectangle the same size on the firewall between the cabin and the cowl area so it isnt visible from the bay. then just but weld the pieces of metal in the opposite hole. then just run the wiring all inside your cabin right to the cowl and ur done.
Ehh. PS fluid will pressurize out of a filter as well as it will pressurize out of a PS reservoir, so either way it will leak all over your engine bay. lol There will be some fluid that will stay in the rack regardless (which IMO is enough). You can hide a reservoir easily near the crossmember and shorten the lines. It all preference. Just make sure there is some fluid in the rack AND that it isn't open to the environment.
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
If your car came with power steering and want to eliminate the parasitic drag on your motor, and the extra weight, you can remove the pump/belt/hoses. If you retain your p/s rack, it's in your best interest to "loop" it, which usually consists of a kit that is sold (usually home made) or you can make it yourself. This keeps fluid in the rack and and keeps it lubricated so that it doesn't wear out. Replacing your p/s rack with a manual rack is also an option. It will be more difficult to steer the car at a stand still, but nothing major.
Page 57
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
I ran across this:
"Buddy Club Power Steering Fluid dramatically improves the power steering fluid boiling point during sports driving. It contains a special sealer to prevent leaks from oil hoses and joints. Unlike brake fluid that uses hydraulic pressure fluid, power steering is controlled by an oil pump, which only has a pressure of 60kg/cm2. Therefore, it is likely for the ordinary power steering fluid to reach its boiling point during sports driving and for cars that are equipped with turbo, which causes more heat in the engine bay. Power steering can seize when the fluid reaches the boiling point.
The ultimate additive for power steering fluid (In red). Improves the steering response using a silicone based additive (In blue). "
To loop the lines remove all the resiviour/pump gear and loop the two lines that the pump/resiviour ran to. Theres a thread in the ITR forum somewhere. One word of note for RHD people such as myself, all the pics on here show the lines to loop as being at the front of "kunckle" on our cars its flipped over so the lines to loop are at the back (real PITA on an ek...).
Drop nearly all of the fluid and some people add a breather in line.
you definatly do need a loop dude, and a breather. those 2 lines are not connected internally, so if you were to block them off, it would be extemely hard to turn the wheel, it would get harder the farther you turn it; building up pressure. if it were pointless why would the realtime team be using it?
i personally run a looped setup with a resivior and breather. for a while it was just a pinhole in the resivior cap and it wasnt big enough, when turned full lock you could hear the pressure releiveing slowly through the cap, and the steering would get hard if i turned the wheel quickly. i made the hole bigger and it was fine.
A non-PS rack will have a slower ratio in order to help lower steering effort somewhat, but you'll end up with like 3.5 turns or more, lock to lock, instead of about 3 turns with a power rack. I think most people who ditch PS want to retain the faster ratio rack, which is going to be more responsive than a slower ratio rack. That's why they opt to do a vented setup on a power rack.
Quote, originally posted by SHG_EasyE »
as far as the p/s vs non p/s rack i actaully had the manual rack which came in the car, but opted to do the p/s with breather because of the quicker ratio. even the manual rack with a quaife quick ratio rack and pinion is a half turn longer lock to lock than a stock p/s rack.
IMO the manual rack just feels very sloppy and theres no road feel compared to a looped p/s rack. maybe a dc manual rack is different than the civic? idk but i went from the OEM CX manual rack to a GSR power rack and felt a HUGE difference in feel. the GSR rack that came out of my old gsr has been looped for 3 years and no sighns of wear... you just have to make sure there is plenty of Honda p/s fluid in it... they tend to get a little sticky if you use anything else
A/C Removal
Page 63
Quote, originally posted by h22apwrdcivic »
i removed my a/c evaporator complete box assembly from behind the dash, and purchased a non a/c box from hondapartsdeals.com it doesnt free up a great mass of space but i wanted to retain my heat, b/c i do get cold very easy even in fall. but there is a good 5x3" space for something above there, i believe i will stash my ignition coil and the msd ignition main box on top of it with rivets.
Quote, originally posted by B18C Turbo »
Ok I need that piece, i want it! What is it called actually? Im talking about the ac removal part
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
heater duct... part 79810-SR3-A01 for a 94-01 teg.
Page 97
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
just look in the air conditioning section of whatever honda parts site you buy thru, then grap the piece that goes where the condenser goes and the plug too. make sure you select the base model of whatever car you have.... so civic cx, or integra rs.
what are you guys using to plug up the heater hose outlet and inlet when you take out your heater core.....i dont want to loop a hose.
Quote, originally posted by donut. »
you can get a rubber plug from pepboys for both of them. or for the one on the side of the head, you can take out the spout with a (21mm?) socket and plug it. i plugged mine with the bronzish plug thing near the dizzy. it takes an alen wrench
Quote, originally posted by CRXBart »
Oh you guys meant on the engine? Mine is looped for now. I am removing the water pipes, and welding the ports shut soon though.
Miscellaneous Engine Bay Component
Getting Rid of the Carbon Canister
Quote, originally posted by jdmb16acivic »
When you do get rid of the carbon canister put a hose on the breather vent line from the gas tank and run it down to the bottom of your engine bay so when you're driving the air underneath the car will suck away the vapors. Or you can just smell the gas all the time. Just know you will smell some gas fumes from time to time when you take it off.
Quote, originally posted by not so JDM Dan »
i just cut the hard line at the back of the car and ran a rubber hose out just past the bushing on the trailing arm, no smell of gas in the car
[droppedcrxsi]charcoal canister will never make a cel turn on.
the evap purge solinoid will throw a code on obd2 cars, if you go obd1 you can just take it off without a problem
Quote, originally posted by DFW »
I just took out the huge canister, what do i do about the line on the left and the little canister that it goes into? it's kinda right under the battery.
the pinkish line is just a breather so you can trash that. Hold onto the canister for when you need to pass smog, otherwise just block off the hose that runs back to the fuel tank so you can hook everything up again. Least that's what i did.
Connect the hose to the plastic drain tube that dumps out below the car.
Quote, originally posted by JDMFantasy2k »
or you guys can stop letting FLAMMABLE fuel vapors from leaking out of your car all the time by plugging the line and letting the fuel tank pressure bypass work naturally when the tank reaches it's maximum safe pressure like honda designed it
think, ever leave a 5gallon jug of gas in the sun? expletiveer expands real quick, gas in your tank does the same thing.
So if you don't drive your car, evap isn't running, fumes are expanding, eventually they need to be purged or else your car turns into a potential bomb. I promise if you block off your tube (or even just disconnect your purge solenoid), you'll hear a funny noise from your car on a warm day.
Quote, originally posted by civicandy »
Where is the pressure bypass located? Currently I just ran a hose from the vent down below the crossmember
Quote, originally posted by JDMFantasy2k »
ok, there's 3 pipes that come from the gas tank, fuel, fuel return, and fuel vapor. The fuel vapor hose on an EK comes almost all the way to the charcoal canister, and then a rubber hose connects it to the canister. What i did was take out the canister, and i cut the vapor hose back near the crossmember where its out of site. Then i clamped a rubber hose to it, and clamped the end shit. So if you need your canister back, install a different rubber hose to the canister and you're done. So i'm assuming that's what you're trying to say you did.
Not sure what you mean by "by pass". Are you referring to the open atmosphere fuel pressure relief valve? I believe it's on the top of the gas tank. Mine makes a weird buzz/humm when it's open. Hope that cleared it all up
Rad Overflow Bottles
Page 24
Quote, originally posted by itekdu »
how is everyone doing their rad. overflow bottles? im sure I saw somewhere someone had done a stainless one?
Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »
Mine is mounted between the bumper and the radiator. I just purchased a couple feet of new hose to run over/around/behind the radiator. You can't even see it.
Quote, originally posted by H8 O ATE »
Wow look at that paint on the framerail
Quote, originally posted by mattcivic »
i paid like $80 for mine i think.
Quote, originally posted by not so JDM Dan »
i made a small bracket with some strip aluminum and bolted it to the core support and to the oem bracket...
where are u guys putting ur battery? i was thinking either the rear trunk or get one of them smaller batteries and putting it in the glove box.... for those who has the battery in the glove box which one are u running? and how are u guys going about securing it down?
Quote, originally posted by Pandahatch »
In my hatch the battery is in the glove box, it's a lawn mower battery from Meijer, 270CC amps. NEVER had a problem with it.
Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »
On my CRX I used a moto dry cell battery behind the driver seat. It will be under the dash in my current project. I haven't decided on a brand yet. I was looking at odyssey, but I've heard bad things about those...
Page 77
Quote, originally posted by PURO~SURCAL »
where do you get those battery terminal from on the firewall i need some bad
Quote, originally posted by h22apwrdcivic »
not my car but i got mine at
summitracing.com they are 14.95, part number is sum-g1430
How To Hide Your Brake Booster Vacume Line
Page 44
Quote, originally posted by phresh_5 »
FIY, since I havn't heard anyone talk about it yet...
Easy way to hide the brake booster vacuum line:
Put the intake manifold vacuum nipple in a vise and twist it so it points downwards. I did this to my Skunk2 manifold and it turned easily. The fitting is only pressed into the manifold. I'm sure stock manifolds can also be done like this.
Also, flip the brake booster 180 degree's. This will put the booster nipple on the bottom left corner instead of the top right.
Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »
If you rotate the booster 180 degrees...it places the booster hose nipple on the bottom left instead of top right.
I need some advice from you guys, what are my options for a way to re-route my throttle cable? And also, are you able to unplug the fuse box and just move it into the cabin of the car?
Quote, originally posted by cubish »
get rid of the gsr throttle cable.. use a type r cable...it will bolt to the jg manifold and be easier to hide
Quote, originally posted by JDMorgan »
you need an itr spring and throttle wheel, then of course cable and bracket. im workin on a bracket that replaces the aicv.
And what's this about not running torque mounts?? You mean some of you guys are driving your cars around with only the 2 side engine/tranny mounts holding the engine in place?? How is that possible? How does that engine not rock back and forth all over the place and cause nasty sounds and possibly break parts?
lol all you need is a tubing bender, tube nuts and sleeves and a ton of reverse flare -3 fittings to -3male...and you will be set for life! 
How is that possible? How does that engine not rock back and forth all over the place and cause nasty sounds and possibly break parts?