I wasn't able to find many super informative pics of this swap when I was preparing for it so I figured I'll post my progress. Please no comments about the black paint or other less than show quality stuff, I'm a function over form type of guy.

Anyways, I'm doing the finishing touches & waiting for the correct axles to be sent to me (they sent me some 'B' series axles), so it's not on the streets yet. The set up is as follows:

H23A Euro Accord Block (Oops guess I should've titled the thread "H23 vtec swap")
Ported H22 head with Crower Stage 3's & flat valves
Ported Intake manifold (by Blacktrax) I have an extra ported IAB plate on it to iincrease plenum volume which does make the manifold sit a little taller, so keep that in mind as you look at the pics.
STR 68mm T-body
Hytech Header
2 1/2" exhaust
Rywire harness
Explicit Speed traction bar
AEM EMS tuning
Hasport mounts & stage 2 axles

I'm hoping to get at least 215 NA whp in a sub 2000 lb car = wheeee!!

Empty engine bay & banged up firewall (the firewall really only needs banging near the TPS, the Brake booster inlet, & the IAT sensor (bang the booster)

New trans mount & cut framerail. It turns out I unfortunately removed more framerail than is needed so do not follow my example. Keep checking out the Hasport site they will get better instructions & pics up soon.

The engine is in!!!

Radiator issues. I didn't think there would be any because the Hasport instructions say "put the radiator back in" with no mention of clearance problems so I thought my half radiator & slim fan would fit fine. Not the case. I've been doing some cutting & drilling to get the radiator positioned as you see it now.

TPS clearance. My manifold is taller because of the extra IAB plate. Other swaps won't hit the seam like I did, but still require a good sized dent for the TPS sensor.

Brake Booster dent

Hole for the shift cables

NEW PICS:

Here's the hood clearance issues. It is not interfering with the skeleton (ie making it so cutting out some skeleton would resolve it). The valve cover is hitting the thinner, less structural portion of the hood just inside of the skeleton. The only solution is space it up or buy an SiR hood that I have not budgeted for. Anyone want to donate to the help me buy a SiR carbon fiber hood fund ?

UPDATE (6/10/06):

Here's how I spaced up the hood for now on the sides & the front. Basically needs around an inch on the rear & 1/4" up front.

The hood sits crooked diagonally at the moment. The front passenger side looking stock then it slopes up as it goes towards the rear & towards the driver's side. Don't laugh at my beater. I'll replace the fender's someday.

Those awesome & rare 15" Volk GRN's on my car are for sale. Hit me up if you're interested.

Here's the ground clearance on stock suspension. I'll finish wrapping the Thermotec stuff next week, but have to add a little for now because the header was designed for an OEM pan, but just touches the Moroso pan because it has a thicker flange. If you look closely towards that back of the car you can see how I had my exhaust routed for minimal back pressure (3 20° bends instead of 4 90° bends)

Edit 6/18:

I'm still tuning it but the power is certainly there. Creamed an RSX Type S last night. Anyways, the swap is done & I'm happy with everything except for the hood. I've been able to straighten it out & get it off of the valve cover with the use of some hood pins. Here are some pics of the final result w/ the Fiberimages hood that does clear the engine.

Modified by 2lude4u at 11:35 AM 10/17/2006

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

Get rid of the IAT sensor near the brake booster and get a 96+ civic IAT that is in the intake tube and wire it in and extend the wires back to the tube or take out wires out of the loom back. Send us some good pictures of the traction bar installed...

How is the clearance between our radius rods and the Hasports kit, especially on the driver side from crank pulley?

I can't tell from the pictures, Do you have about 3/8-1/2" clearance between closest point of the engine to firewall clearance for when the engine moves and you dont knock your firewall every time you get on it?

Modified by ExplicitSpeed360 at 3:05 PM 6/1/2006

Quote, originally posted by 1BADEGDC2 »

thanks a lot asshole

Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »

that engine is way to heavy for a CRX!

HaHa coming from Mr. 2point2 himself.

The lightweight flywheel, balance shaft removal, & UR crank pulley should help lighten it up a little bit (around 26 lbs.). Not to mention the lack of AC & my Braille battery placed in the rear.

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

I haven't put the radius rods in yet (got the bolts from you today ) but will take some more pics of everything once it's all completed this weekend.

The firewall clearance looks good. I may try to get a little more clearance around the TPS because it's still a little too close for comfort.

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

It'll be fine

Quote, originally posted by 1BADEGDC2 »

thanks a lot asshole

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

Looks good

SINISTER RACING

You'll need 1 1/4" spacers on the hinges in the rear, and some washers on the latch up front. It will still rub near the dipstick, and there isn't really any "skeleton" to cut away there.

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Also an update: I did not receive the axles today, so it looks like I won't be able to offically complete this until next week sometime. A few companies dropped the ball with the axle thing & I dont know who is really at fault but I have not really been pleased with Full-Race's lack of customer service. They're nice guys but not on top of things or understand that their mistake should not cost me additional $.

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »

Really? One of the main reasons I went with Hasport & not H2b is because I did not want to be spacing the hood up or any weird stuff like that. I may be in for a rude awakening tomorrow. Also an update: I did not receive the axles today, so it looks like I won't be able to offically complete this until next week sometime. A few companies dropped the ball with the axle thing & I dont know who is really at fault but I have not really been pleased with Full-Race's lack of customer service. They're nice guys but not on top of things or understand that their mistake should not cost me additional $.

Really, you'll need to do this or an SiR hood. I was very impressed with Hasport's inability to tell me anything about how the kit fits over the phone. Also, the D16 alternator does not supply enough juice- it's like driving a car with an underdrive pulley kit. I really should have had my local shop fab their mounts- the engine sits lower and farther back, I could have used the h22 accesories.
The only thing this kit has going for it is that the engine sits pretty high, so if you're lowered no worries about the header or oil pan.
I guess that's what I get for buying the mounts before they had the instructions posted online.
What they have you do with the shifter is pretty crappy too- lots of extra, unneeded bends, and running the cables right by the exhaust. Fortunately my local shop was able to work out something much more elegant, and kept the cables inside the passenger compartment away from the exhaust.

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That's no good

I will add our kits come with full detailed instructions and pictures plus I am here to help with the swap from A to Z and not to leave you in the dark.

I am anxious to see how it will perform

Quote, originally posted by Freeltec »

BTW, what technique did u use to make the holes to pass through the wall? It doesnt look like a hole saw was used.

I bought a 2 1/2" bit, but it required a 1/2" chucked drill (didn't own one at the time, but I do now) so I ended up using a combination of smaller drill bits & a sawzall because I was in a rush to get this done (didn't know I'd be waiting for axles at the time). I cut "tabs" into it then bent them in. Kind of nice in the sense that there isn't a sharp edge of sheet metal for cables to get cut on, but it's not as clean looking? I've cleaned it up & sealed it off now.

Modified by 2lude4u at 12:30 PM 6/6/2006

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

Also for explicitspeed your traction bar is clearing the oil pan (Moroso) with around an 1 1/2" of breathing room on the driver's side, so there are no clearance issues.

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

Turns out when hasport fabbed this mount kit they did it on a CRX with a CF SiR style hood, not smart.

Vouch: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1102372

The way they place the engine, if it sat any lower, the crank pulley would be inside the radius rod.
Also, I got a brand-new SiR US hood from VIS this week. Guess what! It STILL RUBS.
I needed 3 washers on the latch and on the hinge bolts. Without the spacers it rubbed in the same place that the stock hood was.

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