How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time
12-07-2005, 12:59 PM
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How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time
Thought id do a little write up
Thanks to Bert to getting me the bushings at such a great price and so quickly
Start off by jacking up your car
Remove Wheel
Remove The 12mm Bolt Holding the E Brake Cable to gain access to the 17 mm bolts.
Remove the 14mm Bolt
Forgot to Take a pic, but there is one more bolt holding the trailing arm to the body you need to remove. Once you remove that Find a spacer of some sort to keep the trailing arm down.
Now here is the tool
Use some white out and mark the spots so you install it back in correctly.
Strap the baby on
Bushing will pop out pretty easy.
Align up the new bushing and press it in. it should stick out about 12mm (this is how much the oem bushing was sticking out)
Bolt everything back together and you should be set.
The tool is a bit expensive, around 150.00 but saves tons of time. No need to take the trailing arm off and finding a press bla bla.
Hope this helps someone
Well Tried to help someone by lending out the tool.
Took forever to get it back and Got it back in horrible condition So dont bother asking for it
Modified by ArinX at 8:20 PM 1/9/2006
Thanks to Bert to getting me the bushings at such a great price and so quickly
Start off by jacking up your car
Remove Wheel
Remove The 12mm Bolt Holding the E Brake Cable to gain access to the 17 mm bolts.
Remove the 14mm Bolt
Forgot to Take a pic, but there is one more bolt holding the trailing arm to the body you need to remove. Once you remove that Find a spacer of some sort to keep the trailing arm down.
Now here is the tool
Use some white out and mark the spots so you install it back in correctly.
Strap the baby on
Bushing will pop out pretty easy.
Align up the new bushing and press it in. it should stick out about 12mm (this is how much the oem bushing was sticking out)
Bolt everything back together and you should be set.
The tool is a bit expensive, around 150.00 but saves tons of time. No need to take the trailing arm off and finding a press bla bla.
Hope this helps someone
Well Tried to help someone by lending out the tool.
Took forever to get it back and Got it back in horrible condition So dont bother asking for it Modified by ArinX at 8:20 PM 1/9/2006
12-07-2005, 01:33 PM
#2
Re: How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time (ArinX)
I just got a huge boner! 
Did you clock your new bushings to make sure they won't be twisted with your lowered suspension? If you didn't, at least you have the worlds coolest tool to fix it...
BASTARD!!!!
Did you clock your new bushings to make sure they won't be twisted with your lowered suspension? If you didn't, at least you have the worlds coolest tool to fix it...
BASTARD!!!!
12-07-2005, 01:46 PM
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Re: How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time (ArinX)
there is nothing better than working with right tool.
you should rent that tools to people. make money out of it.
you should rent that tools to people. make money out of it.
12-07-2005, 01:55 PM
#4
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Re: How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time (ArinX)
Very nice, much easier when I did it off the car on a large press. Nice tool.
Reminds me of the line from Ghostbusters: "We have the tools. We have the talent."
Reminds me of the line from Ghostbusters: "We have the tools. We have the talent."
12-07-2005, 05:54 PM
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Re: How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time (ArinX)
Thanks for the "How-To"...now I have a new reason for my car to be on jackstands.
12-07-2005, 11:13 PM
#7
Re: How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time (.E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.sptool.com/tool.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you see the special roll-pin punch for the honda shift linkage. That sounds good. I've looked forever for that specific item. Mabey it's time to invest (stupid christmas sucks up all my dough)?
Did you see the special roll-pin punch for the honda shift linkage. That sounds good. I've looked forever for that specific item. Mabey it's time to invest (stupid christmas sucks up all my dough)?
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12-08-2005, 04:14 AM
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Re: How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got a huge boner!
Did you clock your new bushings to make sure they won't be twisted with your lowered suspension? If you didn't, at least you have the worlds coolest tool to fix it...
BASTARD!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you look at the pics there are some white marks on the arms to help align the new bushing.
Did you clock your new bushings to make sure they won't be twisted with your lowered suspension? If you didn't, at least you have the worlds coolest tool to fix it...
BASTARD!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you look at the pics there are some white marks on the arms to help align the new bushing.
12-08-2005, 07:48 AM
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Re: (4door_demon)
Holy crap... that is just about the coolest thing I have ever seen. Maybe with that I'll actually replace mine like I should have 2 years ago.
$150 for one time use... I'll have to think about that a bit...
$150 for one time use... I'll have to think about that a bit...
12-08-2005, 09:13 AM
#12
Re: (AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look at the pics there are some white marks on the arms to help align the new bushing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What I'm saying is that you don't want to put the new bushing in exactly as the stock one came out. Because you've lowered your car, the bushing will be twisted forward when your car is on the ground. It is necissary to make the marks before you dissasemble anything, but with the suspension loaded (LCA on jackstands) to see how much the bushing is twisted. Then once you remove the old bushing, you reinstall the new one clocked the proper amount to relieve the twist once the car is back on the ground.
For a really good article whith photos on this, and trailing arms in general, click here. Then scroll down to the section titled "Bushing Installation".
What I'm saying is that you don't want to put the new bushing in exactly as the stock one came out. Because you've lowered your car, the bushing will be twisted forward when your car is on the ground. It is necissary to make the marks before you dissasemble anything, but with the suspension loaded (LCA on jackstands) to see how much the bushing is twisted. Then once you remove the old bushing, you reinstall the new one clocked the proper amount to relieve the twist once the car is back on the ground.
For a really good article whith photos on this, and trailing arms in general, click here. Then scroll down to the section titled "Bushing Installation".
12-08-2005, 09:21 AM
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I'm saying is that you don't want to put the new bushing in exactly as the stock one came out. Because you've lowered your car, the bushing will be twisted forward when your car is on the ground. It is necissary to make the marks before you dissasemble anything, but with the suspension loaded (LCA on jackstands) to see how much the bushing is twisted. Then once you remove the old bushing, you reinstall the new one clocked the proper amount to relieve the twist once the car is back on the ground.
For a really good article whith photos on this, and trailing arms in general, click here. Then scroll down to the section titled "Bushing Installation".</TD></TR></TABLE>
your right, but without the car being on a lift its really difficult to see that side of the bushing especially under a load. So i just reinstalled them as is. Hopefully they dont go out too quickly.
Hope this writeup helps someone
For a really good article whith photos on this, and trailing arms in general, click here. Then scroll down to the section titled "Bushing Installation".</TD></TR></TABLE>
your right, but without the car being on a lift its really difficult to see that side of the bushing especially under a load. So i just reinstalled them as is. Hopefully they dont go out too quickly.
Hope this writeup helps someone
12-08-2005, 09:40 AM
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Re: (ArinX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ArinX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your right, but without the car being on a lift its really difficult to see that side of the bushing especially under a load. So i just reinstalled them as is. Hopefully they dont go out too quickly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like it matters with that pimpy tool
your right, but without the car being on a lift its really difficult to see that side of the bushing especially under a load. So i just reinstalled them as is. Hopefully they dont go out too quickly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like it matters with that pimpy tool
12-08-2005, 10:50 AM
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Re: How To: Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushing- Cool Tool I found Saves Allot of time (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah, ive never had an issue with that bitch pin.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what did you use then????
what did you use then????
12-08-2005, 10:51 AM
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how do i go about ordering that tool? i need to install a clock my new TA bushings. it says i have to order it from one of the trucks...but which ne do i look out for?
12-08-2005, 11:12 AM
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Re: (projectTeG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do i go about ordering that tool? i need to install a clock my new TA bushings. it says i have to order it from one of the trucks...but which ne do i look out for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i just gave them a call
i just gave them a call
12-08-2005, 11:17 AM
#19
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With your car on jack stands and your jack up under the rear LCA compressing the suspension, All you do is poke your head under there with a straight edge & a grease pen (as shown in the photos). Easy as pie.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LoL allot easier said than done. Especially on the floor. I was barely able to get my hand in there to grease it up 2 months ago just so the noise wasnt so bad. I had to "look" around with my hands making sure i was touching the right area. That being said, i wouldnt trust the blind markings of my pen lol.
LoL allot easier said than done. Especially on the floor. I was barely able to get my hand in there to grease it up 2 months ago just so the noise wasnt so bad. I had to "look" around with my hands making sure i was touching the right area. That being said, i wouldnt trust the blind markings of my pen lol.
12-09-2005, 06:17 AM
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damn thats pimp i would buy one but my buddy has a press so he can do studs and hubs but still a great idea and deal for the tool
12-09-2005, 08:29 AM
#21
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Re: (94rs-turbo)
Nice write-up! And that's an awesome tool, but I just don't see how it can be $150! Doesn't see like it should cost more the $50. Dang tool makers!
12-09-2005, 12:06 PM
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Re: (Marauder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice write-up! And that's an awesome tool, but I just don't see how it can be $150! Doesn't see like it should cost more the $50. Dang tool makers!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because it's the only one like it and they have a patent pending. They up-charge for things like that
Speaking of cool tools, I used to have one of these for my old VW's. It's for removign the rear axle nut. This tool + breaker bar + 5lb sledge = no more stuck axle nuts!
I've thought about having one made for a Honda axle nut.
Because it's the only one like it and they have a patent pending. They up-charge for things like that
Speaking of cool tools, I used to have one of these for my old VW's. It's for removign the rear axle nut. This tool + breaker bar + 5lb sledge = no more stuck axle nuts!
I've thought about having one made for a Honda axle nut.
12-09-2005, 12:17 PM
#23
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Re: (nonsense)
whats wrong with a 32mm socket?
re: bitch pin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zzzkangzzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what did you use then????</TD></TR></TABLE>
i avoid removing the shift linkage at the tranny, and remove it at the shift lever. if im changing trannies, it comes out with the tranny.
re: bitch pin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zzzkangzzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what did you use then????</TD></TR></TABLE>
i avoid removing the shift linkage at the tranny, and remove it at the shift lever. if im changing trannies, it comes out with the tranny.
12-09-2005, 12:24 PM
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Re: (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats wrong with a 32mm socket? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing if you have an impact or a 5' long pipe to go over the breaker bar. With this you get the best of both. You have a buddy put some weight on the breaker bar and you smack the tool with a sledge. It pops off really easily.
Nothing if you have an impact or a 5' long pipe to go over the breaker bar. With this you get the best of both. You have a buddy put some weight on the breaker bar and you smack the tool with a sledge. It pops off really easily.
12-09-2005, 12:28 PM
#25
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Re: (nonsense)
now i understand how that tool works. that flat part is an anvil.
why not just make a universal adaptor tool that works with any sized 1/2" drive socket and is made of hardened tool steel.
why not just make a universal adaptor tool that works with any sized 1/2" drive socket and is made of hardened tool steel.