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EDIT 4/29/08apparently there is an adaptor available specifically for what this thread is attempting to cover without having to flare the OEM hard line. no need for purchasing a flaring tool. 
thanks to '$ugarFree' for posting it here
| Quote, originally posted by $ugarFree » |
*Save Money switch to Part # 165056*..
 I just talked to Tom from Earls Fittings about a order of mine.. He said we should be ordering this single part instead of buying these three parts to convert our stock fuel line to -6. He asked me to post this video up to show us we have been working to hard.. for http://www.anplumbing.com and TOM for awsome customer service.. VIDEO
http://www.anplumbing.com/TUBING_ADAPTERS.html
instead of buying
#581805, 581905, and 991907
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the OEM banjo style fittings suck ass, and restrict fuel flow a LOT. this is how you convert your OEM feed to a braided line.
stuff you need to know:
- the EF/EG OEM fuel filter and fuel rail banjo bolt threads (on top of filter) are 12mm x 1.25. EK botton connection is M14x1.5
- the OEM hard line fuel feed is 5/16" outer diameter which is an odd -5an size
- it's easiest to use an EF civic OEM fuel filter as it has both the inlet and outlet on the top of the filter facing up with M12mmx1.25 threads
- don't mix stainless and alum fittings
- if you want to install an earl's inline filter, i covered that down below
general AN info, sizing and tech here:
http://www.anplumbing.com/tech.html
PARTS LIST:
here's the parts you need to convert the feed line to a braided line (all can be had on summitracing.com). this does NOT include what you need to go from the filter to the rail with braided line, but the concept is the same:
all are summitracing.com part #s and prices:
(1) -5 an tube sleeve ($1.50) - EAR-581905ERL
(1) -5 an tube nut ($3.25) - EAR-581805ERL
(1) -5 an male to -6 an male reducer ($5.69) - EAR-991907ERL
(2) -6 an hose ends ($4.25ea= $8.50) - SUM-220690
(1) 1.5 feet of -6 an braided hose ($7.69) - SUM-G1001
(1) -6 an male to 12mm x 1.25 carb adaptor with crush washer ($6.95) - EAR-991945ERL
(1) 90deg -6 an female to male coupler ($13.50) - EAR-921106ERL
(1) 37degree tube flaring kit ($34.95) - SUM-900311
(1) small tube cutter ($6.99) - SUM-900500
local auto parts store or:
misc crap:
1. something to catch the fuel from the old filter
2. a sheet of fine (800-1000) grit wet/dry sandpaper
if you have to buy the flare kit (i did) and a tubing cutter total is:
~$80
add another $12-18 for a new EF civic fuel filter. it's too bad the damn flare kit is so expensive... it's almost half the cost of the project
prep the braided line for install by installing hose ends and tightening. check this link for swivel seal end install instructions.
map out the install in the engine bay to make sure you understand exactly where things need to be placed
THE INSTALL PROCESS:
1. remove the OEM fuel filter
2. cut the OEM feed hard line with a tube cutter at a point that is easily acessible and is PERFECTLY straight after the cut point for a MINIMUM of 2"
i bolded it because this it crucial. the sleeve does have ANY give in it, and it will NOT fit around any type of bend.
NOTES: if there is a ridge left from cutting the line, use the sandpaper to sand it out. the tube MUST be perfectly straight and without any bends in order for the sleeve to slide on.
3. slide the -5 an tube nut over the hard line with threads facing the cut
4. slide -5 an tube sleeve over hose end with wide portion facing the cut
5. flare the end of the tube with the 37degree kit using the 5/16" adaptor.
NOTES: this is best done with the engine out as space is cramped. i actually was able to get it done with an H22 installed in my EK. when actually performing the flare, if you have never flared a tube before, pick up a small piece of tubing from a parts store an practice. the OEM line is very hard, and it will take some "love" to get a full flare. make sure you flare it all the way until the cut end is sandwiched between the flare cone and the tubing holder.
after you flare it, the tube will likely be a bit distorted. use the sandpaper to clean up the scratches left from the tubing holder before attempting #6.
6. slide the tube sleeve and nut up to the flare, and thread on to the -5an/-6an reducer to the -5an side. if the tube sleeve is getting stuck near the flare, grab the nut, pull it over the sleeve, and use the nut to force the sleeve up to the flare.
my spiffy MS paint diagram:
7. connect the -6an end of the reducer to the braided line
8. install the EF civic fuel filter
9. install the -6an to 12mmX1.25 adaptor into the fuel inlet side on the filter using a new crush washer
10. install the -6an female to male 90deg bend on the adaptor
11. install the other end of the braided line on the 90deg bend adaptor
12. install a fuel feed line from the filter to the rail
13. snug everything down, but do NOT over-tighten as the alum fittings will strip
14. prime the fuel pump 3 times to bring the system to full pressure
15. check for leaks
finished pics. obviously, my next step is to replace the line from the filter to the rail.
yes, there is teflon tape on the threads, that's the white. no, it's not necessary for AN fittings, bit i was being anal about that connection. fuel should never even get to the threads, nut or sleeve
NOTE: after the install, i did have some fuel weepage between the hard line and the tube sleeve. i was concerned initially that i didn't flare it perfectly. however, i just realized that i didn't tighten down that connection enough. so, after fanagaling another 1/2 turn out of the nut, the weepage went away.
Modified by -DC2- at 8:57 PM 4/29/2008
formerly DOHCDX, DOHCvtecDX
Vouches, buy from good sellers
so, to not have to worry about that hose blowing off at 8k rpms under 50-55psi fuel pressure, i opted to do it the right way
