thaiphob
[HT] Black Ops

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5959 posts [100%]
Hell A CA
7-12-2002
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Flux) | « » 7:53 PM 5/30/2005 |
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ive seen some parts of the gasket squisehed out before and never had a prob with leaks. but if you want to be safe, bust of the torque wrench
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Flux

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5677 posts [100%]
Denver CO
12-19-2000
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (thaiphob) | « » 8:00 PM 5/30/2005 |
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| Quote, originally posted by thaiphob » | ive seen some parts of the gasket squisehed out before and never had a prob with leaks. but if you want to be safe, bust of the torque wrench |
I used a torque wrench to factory specs and it still squished out a tiny bit in one spot. Should I be ok or is that a sure sign that it will leak? Would I be better served pulling it off and trying again?
+ 1998 Integra Type R + 0 7 2 4"Without racing, there is no Honda" Soichiro Honda
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btotherizzle

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377 posts [97%]
12-25-2004
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I have tried numerous times to seal my pan properly. I have been through $250 in gaskets. I tried the factory torque specs and I found the best way is to use a little rtv in the corners to hold the gasket and then snug all the nuts, then in a clockwise rotation begin to tighten them down. I did three tightening sequences, gradually getting tighter each time. Use a small 1/4'' rachet and you'll be good. The moral of my story is that the only time the pan actually sealed was when the gasket squished out a little.
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Flux

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5677 posts [100%]
Denver CO
12-19-2000
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| Quote, originally posted by btotherizzle » | I have tried numerous times to seal my pan properly. I have been through $250 in gaskets. I tried the factory torque specs and I found the best way is to use a little rtv in the corners to hold the gasket and then snug all the nuts, then in a clockwise rotation begin to tighten them down. I did three tightening sequences, gradually getting tighter each time. Use a small 1/4'' rachet and you'll be good. The moral of my story is that the only time the pan actually sealed was when the gasket squished out a little. |
I followed the procedure you mentioned (in the Helms manual). Maybe I'm ok. Here is a pic of what I am talking about. If this is a problem I'd rather fix it now with everything already apart than later when I discover a leak...
+ 1998 Integra Type R + 0 7 2 4"Without racing, there is no Honda" Soichiro Honda
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Kavehman

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935 posts [98%]
Sydney Australia
1-1-2003
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Flux) | « » 9:32 PM 5/30/2005 |
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I really doubt thats gonna leak
none
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Flux

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5677 posts [100%]
Denver CO
12-19-2000
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Kavehman) | « » 9:59 PM 5/30/2005 |
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| Quote, originally posted by Kavehman » | | I really doubt thats gonna leak |
Cool. I hope not. I jsut took it all off and put it back on again without using the torque wrench and it did the exact same thing at the exact same location... I guess that is how it is going to be.
+ 1998 Integra Type R + 0 7 2 4"Without racing, there is no Honda" Soichiro Honda
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KOALA YUMMIES

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6650 posts [100%]
9-30-2002
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Flux) | « » 10:07 PM 5/30/2005 |
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Why dont you spray the area spotless with some brake cleaner, drive around a bit, take it up a few times and see if you can see anything. Other than that if its a new gasket torqued to spec like others said I doubt itd leak.
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KnowForever

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481 posts [100%]
VA
12-1-2003
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (KOALA YUMMIES) | « » 11:56 PM 5/30/2005 |
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it looks fine, just drive it for 15 minutes then crawl under there and check it out if your worried about it.
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Cone

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2157 posts [98%]
Somewhere in MI
3-7-2002
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (KnowForever) | « » 8:50 PM 6/5/2005 |
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I went through 2 gaskets when I put on my Mugen pan. Even when using a factory spec, it can still squish out. When it stopped leaking, I used this procedure: torqing it to spec in three steps, and when it started to squish out, I stopped, whether the wrench clicked or not. I think the key is to watch it and compress it, but not squish it.
Current: '91 Civic DX hatch Past: '01 S2000: sold , '00 ITR #1382: sold, '00 ITR #572 ("The Cone"): RIP, '90 S13: sold, '95 DC2: RIPMy Garage 1st Place: Street, RWD. Redline Time Attack. August 2006.
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.water
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4145 posts [92%]
6-6-2004
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Flux) | « » 2:59 AM 6/7/2005 |
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just little though..maybe when you bolt on gasket possible to slip out little bit from where it suppose to be??
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b19coupe
C.A.T.

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9179 posts [100%]
Southern California
3-15-2002
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Flux) | « » 10:15 AM 6/7/2005 |
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The gasket has more of a tendency to 'squish' at the spots on the block with oil on them. Getting everything very clean and dry should help some.
B-SERIES GARAGE SALE Drag CRX FS C.A.T.
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Flux

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5677 posts [100%]
Denver CO
12-19-2000
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (b19coupe) | « » 8:38 PM 6/7/2005 |
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Just discovered that it is in fact leaking a bit through the gasket seal... Nothing I hate more than carefully doing everything as perfectly as possible and it still doesn't work.I'm going to have to leave it for now (I have a track day planned on Thursday) and fix it soon I guess...  <--- keeping a close eye on oil levels.
+ 1998 Integra Type R + 0 7 2 4"Without racing, there is no Honda" Soichiro Honda
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migs
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7300 posts [101%]
5-28-2002
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Flux) | « » 8:36 PM 2/12/2008 |
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The oil pan gasket has a flat side and a side that has 2 ribs. Which way faces what direction?

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EleanoR

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Orlando FL
6-24-2001
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (migs) | « » 10:11 PM 2/12/2008 |
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yeah after seeing that pictures i would of bet that was going to 'seep' at that part of the pan. you are correct in using a bit of RTV or hondabond on all 4 corners and it is easier to have someone hold the pan in place while you are putting on all the bolts/nuts and going around 5+ times getting slightly tighter each time. I believe the spec is only like 20 ft/lb which is next to nothing. I didn't torquie mine just used a 1/4 wratchet and you can feel when they are tight (about the same tightness of the bolts holding the valve cover down to the head). Good Luck!
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JjuuN R
JjuuN R

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14207 posts [101%]
Armed and Ready
10-24-2003
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (EleanoR) | « » 10:22 PM 2/12/2008 |
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| Quote, originally posted by EleanoR » | | yeah after seeing that pictures i would of bet that was going to 'seep' at that part of the pan. you are correct in using a bit of RTV or hondabond on all 4 corners and it is easier to have someone hold the pan in place while you are putting on all the bolts/nuts and going around 5+ times getting slightly tighter each time. I believe the spec is only like 20 ft/lb which is next to nothing. I didn't torquie mine just used a 1/4 wratchet and you can feel when they are tight (about the same tightness of the bolts holding the valve cover down to the head). Good Luck! |
Heh, the intentions are good, but you're like 3 years late, hehe.  I think Mike just posted it in here instead of starting another Mugen Oilpan thread. Mike, pretty sure the ribs down towards the pan, I think it's how I installed mine, but it was a bit ago. No leaks...
2001 PY-R #0082... JUN Powered /// Mugen 無限 Equipped
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Comp97GSR

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3936 posts [100%]
I GOT MY PUBES BEFORE J00 GUYS
11-10-2001
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (JjuuN R) | « » 10:34 PM 2/12/2008 |
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| Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R » | Mike, pretty sure the ribs down towards the pan, I think it's how I installed mine, but it was a bit ago. No leaks... |
Yep. What I do to make sure the gasket goes on properly is to put the gasket on the block. The studs hold it up... some what anyway. I then bring the pan up to the gasket.
| Quote, originally posted by BlueR » | first off, my shifter is not short and its definately worth more than $6 |
01 無限 MUGEN equipped ; NBP-R 0761
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Runnerdown

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2286 posts [100%]
Albany NY
8-16-2003
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Comp97GSR) | « » 11:24 PM 2/12/2008 |
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The gasket should get a small dab of sealant where the rear main seal and oil pump seams are, that is also done by the factory because there is a very small step that the gasket cannot squeeze into.
http://www.synapsemotorsport.com12.4@109 all motor street car w/stock cams. Curiosity is the mother of creativity.
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Comp97GSR

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3936 posts [100%]
I GOT MY PUBES BEFORE J00 GUYS
11-10-2001
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Runnerdown) | « » 11:26 PM 2/12/2008 |
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| Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown » | | The gasket should get a small dab of sealant where the rear main seal and oil pump seams are, that is also done by the factory because there is a very small step that the gasket cannot squeeze into. |
I have done it with and without Hondabond. The consensus is that if you use sealant it has to be extremely thin or the gasket will leak anyway.
| Quote, originally posted by BlueR » | first off, my shifter is not short and its definately worth more than $6 |
01 無限 MUGEN equipped ; NBP-R 0761
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Runnerdown

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2286 posts [100%]
Albany NY
8-16-2003
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Comp97GSR) | « » 12:54 AM 2/13/2008 |
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| Quote, originally posted by Comp97GSR » | I have done it with and without Hondabond. The consensus is that if you use sealant it has to be extremely thin or the gasket will leak anyway. |
A very small amount of sealant is needed, most people use way to much and makes a mess anyways. Usually the gaskets tens to "seep" slightly and you will see some dirt collecting around the outside of the gasket after quite some time. If its actually leaking/dripping then you have a problem with your pan or sealing surfaces.
http://www.synapsemotorsport.com12.4@109 all motor street car w/stock cams. Curiosity is the mother of creativity.
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pcorad

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557 posts [100%]
Eastern ma
2-28-2001
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| « Re: Mugen Oil Pan Installed - Gasket Question (Runnerdown) | « » 12:26 PM 5/8/2008 |
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Question on replacing oil pan and gasket. It looks like the A pipe needs to be removed from the manifold in order to do this project. Is that right? Is there another way?I've got a stock exhaust with 100k miles on it. Those 3 bolts on where the A pipe meets the manifold look mighty rusty. How difficult to you think it will be to get these bolts off? Is there a gasket I should be replacing when I do this?
Paul 97 ITR 02 RSX-S
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migs
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7300 posts [101%]
5-28-2002
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Just drop the entire exhaust manifold.

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pcorad

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557 posts [100%]
Eastern ma
2-28-2001
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That's the easiest way? Replace the manifold gasket? And the 2 self locking nuts?
Paul 97 ITR 02 RSX-S
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walker111

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9104 posts [100%]
VirNgOiVnAia
8-22-2001
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Its been a while since I've seen the stock manifold, but, I replaced my pan with the exhaust/header still on. SMS header....
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rcar97

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180 posts [100%]
GTA, Canada
12-30-2005
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Did you prep the block properly by removing all traces of the old gasket? Clean the sealing surface carefully and throughly with a scraper and acetone or varsol. Use a little blue gasket maker around all the bolt holes and tightnen using the factory sequence. Also, check to make sure that the oil pan isn't warped or damaged. Good luck.
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