Popping front lower balljoints & other random observations

[IN VTEC]

Everybody seems to have trouble with it some time or another, and every time somebody brings up the we-todd-did method of using a 1/2" drive ratchet to pop the balljoint, nobody seems to understand how it works. So, I put together something for everybody to reference later on and hopefully we'll never have to see another post about how to pop a lower balljoint. Set up the jack and jack up the lower control arm until you can get the ratchet in b/w the knuckle and the LCA. Insert the 1/2" drive ratchet so that it's as square as possible to the surfaces it's sitting on. This is to ensure that the ratchet won't flop out prematurely. Front side - hopefully everybody can see how the ratchet sits. The perspective is a little skewed and blocked. Back side Movie - illustrates the method in action (approx 5MB) Other observational stuff that's mostly useless: Using a pair of EGT gauges, I've been monitoring comparisons of EGT's b/w cylinders. Cylinder #3 was used as the standard since that's the one that everybody says runs the hottest. Guess what? They're right. Relative readings: 1: -40 deg Celsius 2: -20 deg Celsius 3: 0 4: -40 deg Celsius Sometimes the #2 cylinder would read less than -20 deg C of difference, but it wasn't very often. Modified by IN VTEC at 12:14 AM 8/15/2007

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[BolivianDc2]

[PatrickGSR94]

hell yeah I always use that method when removing the axles, works every time. I just changed axles today in fact.

One thing to remember, make SURE you pop that balljoint loose BEFORE removing the shock fork. You can loosen or remove the lower fork-to-LCA nut if you want to, but the bolt must stay in there so that the spring will be forcing the LCA downward when you remove the jack. Otherwise it won't work.

Any ideas why #3 runs hottest? I never knew that.

[IN VTEC]

It'll still work. You just have to step or jump on the brake caliper.

It'll usually do it by itself if you leave the shock fork in, but it's not necessary.

Watch the movie and you'll see.

[IVI]

Originally Posted by IN VTEC

It'll still work. You just have to step or jump on the brake caliper.

It'll usually do it by itself if you leave the shock fork in, but it's not necessary.

Watch the movie and you'll see.

im impressed
the video is very helpful
nicely made.

[oMek]

2 bad i didnt see this video 3 weeks ago.

[IVI]

Originally Posted by oMekoneDC2

2 bad i didnt see this video 3 weeks ago.

that always happens. something is never around when its needed, but when you dont need it, its right there.

go figure.

[NightRiderS2K]

Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94

Any ideas why #3 runs hottest? I never knew that.

Can someone input on this, I'd like to know also...

BTW: never seen that method before...

always did it the hard way with a puller, but never busted a ball join

[IN VTEC]

Originally Posted by oMekoneDC2

2 bad i didnt see this video 3 weeks ago.

I filmed that last night while doing a clutch job for somebody.

[xenocron]

Originally Posted by NightRider-gsR

Can someone input on this, I'd like to know also...

I believe it has something to do with the way the intake manifolds / heads are designed on Honda autos.

[stumpyf4]

cylinder #3 probably runs the leanest... leaning out equals heat.

[PatrickGSR94]

Is the #3 injector programmed to be like that, or does it have more to do w/ the geometry of the manifolds, combustion chambers, etc?

[Axle]

My guess would be that it has something to do with the firing order, intake air speed and volume quantity per given medium of time, power of the ignition based on relative length that the spark has to travel to make it to the plug, as well as factory-programmed and sensor-manipulated engine condition readings that the computer sees and changes things according to the input.

[IN VTEC]

Why don't some of you guys put those hypotheses to the test? I have my own ideas and methods that I want to use to test them, but anybody's just as wrong or right as the next until somebody steps up with some solid data that can lead us to a firm conclusion.

[G1 TEGGY]

haha, not to bring your skills down or anything but this is why they make joint pullers

..ps, that craftsman jack is the best ever isn't it, i love it..... craftsman

[IN VTEC]

I haven't found a puller yet that hasn't either given me problems or isn't hard to use b/c of lack of room.

This way has always been quicker and safer for me.

If you have a better solution, please present it. I'll convert to using it if it really is better than this method.


Modified by IN VTEC at 11:08 PM 6/7/2004

[IN VTEC]

I like the other Craftsman jack we have better. This is the crappier one of the two we use at TFGG. It goes up really fast without any load, but then it gets really unproductive once you load it. The other one is a lot more consistent...not that anybody can relate to what the "other one" refers to.

[Axle]

Originally Posted by IN VTEC

Why don't some of you guys put those hypotheses to the test? I have my own ideas and methods that I want to use to test them, but anybody's just as wrong or right as the next until somebody steps up with some solid data that can lead us to a firm conclusion.

Mostly because it's quite expensive to find that kind of equipment to measure all of the possible variables, such as intake port velocity.

[xenocron]

See this little knob? That is there to wack on with a BFH incase jaw pullers or your little trick doesnt work. I learnt this one in person this past weekend

[Axle]

Whoa, I just noticed your balljoint stud is mounted upside down compared to mine. Man, talk about a huge improvement in design, yeesh, I wish mine were that easy.

[PatrickGSR94]

Originally Posted by G1_TEGGY

haha, not to bring your skills down or anything but this is why they make joint pullers

I guarantee you the ratchet-handle-method is faster and easier than any tool on the market anywhere, including the OEM tool shown in the Helm's manual. Absolutely no danger of tearing the boot or screwing up the balljoint stud using this method, vs. using pullers or pickle forks or other tools.

[4crx4me]

Originally Posted by G1_TEGGY

haha, not to bring your skills down or anything but this is why they make joint pullers

..ps, that craftsman jack is the best ever isn't it, i love it..... craftsman

I just use the honda ball joint puller. No problems at all.
Craftsmans are great, I love 'em. But Snap-On is better.

[LT6916]

i used some kind of fork that you wedge between the fork and the joint and hit with a hammer. The sloped edge pushes the balljoint apart - i've used this thing 3 times w/o a problem.

[Seedc2]

cool write up. Looks very easy to do

[Bailhatch]

Originally Posted by xenocron

See this little knob? That is there to wack on with a BFH incase jaw pullers or your little trick doesnt work. I learnt this one in person this past weekend

The hammer method is usually the fastest for me. 2 hard hits and they pop. It does take a little more skill i guess if you can't control your hands very well or something. I have done probably 80-100 ball joints this way with no damage.