ch0g

hey all,

i have read this whole post but apprehensive to go ahead with whats been mentioned so far. i have just had my suspension and wheels changed and my 4ws unit is now throwing an error 36, which is rear right hand speed sensor. has anyone had this error before and been able to fix it relitively easily? the guys who fitting the tyres were unable to help me. i have booked the car in with honda, it has to go in in a few days. i would prefer not to have to pay the rediculous inspection costs associated with honda when i have the exact problem staring right at me.

if anyone can point me in the right direction i'd appreciat it

thanks

ch0g

wstef

It just means when the suspension work was done, they probably damaged the speed sensor (ABS sensor) or its wire... If I were you, I'd go to them and ask to fix the sensor (and/or wiring). The 4WS unit is connected to ABS unit, so it knows if the sensors are good or not.

ch0g

i didnt think my lude (94si) had abs? its is missing most of the abs fuses from under the hood. the guys had no idea about the 4ws system so once honda fixes it, i might have to send the bill to them..

any idea on the cost of these sensors? in australia?

cheers

Not_Rice4ws

yeah ch0g i was wondering how the heck you had 4ws but not abs. look under the hood and see if you have the abs brake fluid resivour with the yellow cap. its located on the left side of the engine bay towards the firewall.
im almost positive you have it.
if there is aproblem with the abs then i would address that first. as that may be the problem you are having with the sensor in combination with the 4ws.

ch0g

problem has been fixed by honda. turned out to be the rear wheel sensor. replaced and cost me $800(AU).

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

What year is your car?? In 92 they issued a recall for that part.

Not_Rice4ws

which sensor did they replace?
the rear main steering angle sensor>?
im guessing it was not, and that is was one of the rear speed sensors.

ch0g

sorry guys. it is a 1994si

and the sensor which was replaced was the right rear wheel speed sensor. does the part seem pricy for $400(AU) or are they normally around this much?

ch0g

Sephro

http://www.slhondaparts.com/br...0-951

ch0g

i got stooged! thanks sephro

Sephro

If that's the same part.... That's what I have thought it to be...

ch0g

yeah thats the part thats on the honda invoice. not to worry thanks for ya help

dsmarefaster

could you give me some info on my 4ws unit? my 4ws light come on but gos off
please respond to axoracer@hotmail.com
ps looking forpower lock and window switches for 1992 honda prelude si

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

My 4WS is back to its old tricks. It no longer owrks if I turn the car off and back on.

I am going to pull the 4WS ECU and resolder the relay points.

wstef

What error code are you getting now ??

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wstef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What error code are you getting now ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Error code 62 again.

***!!! Now I have to take out the 4WS ECU again...and I just finished lining my interior with Dynamat.

Altilude

I did mine today so I've added some pictures, for those who are considering this but are afraid to jump in. Needless to say it would have been impossible (atleast I wouldn't have thought of it!) without the insight from wstef - so he deserves full credit. Hopefully some of you will find the pictures helpful however.

First of all I'm not going into detail of how to remove the 4ws unit itself (it's a bitch, atleast I thought it was a pain in the ****) because if you can't figure that out, you probably shouldn't be messing around with the guts of the 4ws unit in the first place. as Wstef did - I also recommend your first step is to disconnect your battery. Finally I take no responsibility in how you might use this information to your advantage or "in a soldering nightmare" disadvantage.

Tools Required

10mm socket (w/ extension helps)
philips screw driver
soldering iron w/ solder
Large Book and Newspaper (or similar non-static'y items)
magnifying glass (not essential but nice)

With the CAR battery disconnected

1) remove the 4ws unit from car, I'm not going to go in great detail about this, basically you have to remove the rear left seat to gain access to it - information about removing your rear seats can be found in the helms page 20-41 - the 10mm will come in handy.

2) once you have the unit removed place it on a suitable work space with cooling FINS up, and a book on it's left hand side.



I chose a sizeable book (as shown below) - and I recommend you do the same, you'll see why shortly



3) Remove the 6 screws as shown in red



4) Gently open this cover (from the RHS of the unit - like turning a page in a book) and place it on top of the Large book next to the unit. The green arrow indicates the paper ribbon connector - you have to be very gentle it is hardwired to the boards so you can't disconnect it. The red circles indicate the next 5 screws you will have to undo....the one furthest right is a Larger screw than the others.



5) remove the heat shield...voila more electronics.



6) Next remove the 25 screws as indicated in RED, they are of various sizes but pretty self-explanatory so It would be hard to mess them up. The yellow arrows indicate the "troublesome relays" (well their solder points atleast) that give intermittent 4ws.



7) lay some newspaper/cardboard, or anything non-static'y over the other electronic board. once again, like a book - turn the page, so that the bottom of the troublesome relays are exposed. remember to be careful of that paper ribbon. YOIKES!...In case you get lost looking at circuitry I've outlined the problematic solder points in red for you.



here is another pic of the Yummy 4ws Sandwich.



8) Resolder those points and you should be good to go!, don't burn yourself - like my stupid *** did - it really hurts ): still does.

9) reassemble the unit (reverse order of diassembly)

10) put unit back in car, and connect

11) reconnect the battery terminals

12) rock that 4ws like the day you bought it.

five-0

Nice addition to the 4WS fix. Thanks.

Prelude SIR-T

amazingly this did the trick you are a genius it has been days and the 4ws light has not come on after starting the car

Altilude

ya wstef really nailed this one... at the time of posting the pictures/doing the write up, I wasn't sure if it would work for me/at all - but it's been almost a month - and i've never had that 4ws light come back on! (except as an indication at startup of course)

wstef

nice, I wish you good luck

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

Update:

My 4WS was back up to its old tricks of only working if the car sits for over 15 minutes. It hasn't worked properly for almost a year now. Instead of resoldering, I bought another 4WS ECU off ebay from a guy who said that he never had an issue with his 4WS.

So far so good. It is working perfectly fine. *knock on wood*

I bought the ECU for $17.35 shipped to me too. Not bad, huh.

I wonder if certain ECUs were affected, while others weren't. Who knows. I am just glad it is working again.

five-0

I'm jealous. I've had my back seat pulled for 6 months now with hopes of re-soldering motivation... but so far none. I'm just surging the thing with ignition juice to make it work when I need it to. In Boulder... most things are really not that far away so I only make it work when going out of town. Someday I will pull the friggn' thing and fix it. I swear.

Altilude

mine still works perfectly since the fix (: and if the light ever started to come back on - i'd fix it again in a second (:

iluded-vtir

How uz all going? i got a 94 lude vtir, andd i got a problem with the 4ws. when i reset my ecu, it works for a good 3 or 4 hours, and then the 4ws light comes back on. as long as i keep resetting it, it keeps working? any ideas? replies appreciated