ENGINE SWAP INFO & FAQs,HOW-TO CK ENGINE LIGHTS

[Ricey McRicerton]

Well since this gets asked almost daily, me and BauleyCivic have decided that making a thread to showcase, if you will, the swaps. Some intro swap information Switching OBD motors Many people think that swapping in a pre OBDI motor into their 92+ Civic is a good idea. I disagree. First, you'll have to swap the car from OBDI to OBD0 ot try and change the motor to OBDI. If you get a swap older than a 1991, you have to deal with the cable to hydro tranny conversion. The 1992-1993 Integra is the oddball swap of the bunch, being OBD1 and cable tranny. Your stock Civic has a hydraulic transmission. Swapping from OBDII to OBDI is a common thing more and more now. Although the idea is quite good, it has flaws. If you use a jumper harness, it is very difficult to get the ECM to fit back in it's original location. Also, unless you feel like changing things back at inspection time, it's going to be impossible to pass in some areas. Now places are implementing OBDII testing that will have the tester plug a computer into your OBDII port to check for legality (no pulling the check engine light bulbs anymore to pass). General swap info and tips This could be better covered by someone with more swap experience, but I'll put in my $.02. Do it from the top. Just because more people have access to the tools and locations where putting in a swap from the top is easier. Also, make sure you have some way to crack the axle nuts loose. Air tools are a lifesaver when you have to turn bolts in a job like this, as is a torque wrench and a GOOD set of sockets. If you can follow directions on here and unbolt things and rebolt them with a little wiring, you can do a swap. A special thanks goes out to JDMlyfestyle for this thread http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=983454 JDM Swaps Honestly, unless these come from a friend in Japan, you're taking a gamble every time. You have no real way to know how many miles are on the engine, nor how it was treated. Just keep that in mind. It has not been proven (no matter how many claims) that these JDM motors make any more HP. Where to find them First of all, if you are looking for a USDM motor, I'll suggest local junkyards. They are probally your best bet, as you can look at what you're getting instead of having to order it. Many people on here have bough swaps online, and they have posted their experiences in this thread: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=50010 Possible Swaps Now before someone jumps on me and says anything is possible with enough time and money, I know. These are going to be fairly straightforward options with the pros/cons. D series swaps These are fairly inexpensive and come in a variety of Civics. IMHO, these are the easiest swaps to drop in. I also don't want to hear a bunch of whining about the opinions on power levels. Of course there are going to be some exceptions to the rule. Pros Inexpensive Decent potential (200 whp or so on stock internals) OEM parts are cheap More than enough for most people The best D series come with ~130 hp tops Optional factory LSD in the JDM D15B Cons Not as much potential as some other motors Transmission not geared for accelleration Don't respond to bolt ons well Only way to get real power out of them is FI ############################################## B16 These can be found in the JDM SIR and SIRII (among other JDM cars, which I don't claim to know all of which it came in) as well as the USDM 99-00 SI (EM1) and the 99-00 Canadian SIR. They can also be found in the Del Sol VTEC (thanks NinetySevenDC2 and Syndacate). Pros 160 hp stock High RPM power Fairly inexpensive Good transmission DOHC VTEC Cons 113ft/lbs torque (very little more than a D16z6 stock) Without knowing what you're looking for you can end up with a high mileage JDM model Under 4k or so it feels just like a D16 ############################################## B18B This is the motor in the non Type-R and non GSR Integra. Pros Good torque for a 1.8L (127 ft/lbs) Inexpensive (even cheaper than a B16) 142 hp (more than any stock D series) Boost heads love them Cons No VTEC Longest B series transmission ############################################## B18C1 (or JDM B18C) These come out of an Integra GSR. Pros Good Hp and TQ numbers (170, 121 ft/lbs respectively) DOHC VTEC Tons of potential High revving Cons Expensive Becoming moreso as people keep scooping them up Slighty longer tranny than the ITR and B16 ############################################## B18C5 (or JDM B18C) This is found in the Integra Type-R. IMHO this is the best swap for a Civic. Pros GREAT HP and TQ numbers (195 and 134 ft/lbs) High revving Hand built motor from Honda Optional factory LSD Best transmission for a B series from the factory Red valve cover Cons EXPENSIVE If JDM ITR is used, the 36mm axle 32mm hub problems occur ############################################## B16B This is the motor found in the Civic Type R found all over the world. Pros 185 hp 117 ft/lbs High revving Good top end power Red valve cover Cons Expensive- almost as much as an ITR for lower performance Very little torque still, have to rev the motor to make power ############################################## B20 Pros Great torque (133 ft/lbs) good boost motors inexpensive B20z=146hp Cons Thin cylinder walls Have to peice together a swap for a Civic (can't drop it in with a B20 tranny) Won't pass BAR (light truck motor in a car) Low hp in the B20b(126 hp) ############################################## H22/JDM F20B Pros 200 hp H22=156 ft/lbs torque F20B=145 ft/lbs torque Great torque DONT WEIGH THAT MUCH MORE THAN A B SWAP!! http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684550 Cons Harder to install than a B/D motor transmission feel is vague IMHO Less info out there for the swap (aka, less experience as they are less common) Price of swap is comperable to a B18C5 after everything is said and done (mounts, etc) ############################################## K20 This can be found in the new EP3, the RSX (base and Type S) as well as other cars across the world (RSX R, etc). This is the future of the swap IMHO. There is a writeup on installing one of these in one issue of Sport Compact Car magazine (June 2004 I *think*) Pros 200 hp 158 ft/lbs torque (RSX R) I-VTEC Respond VERY well to bolt ons 6 speed transmission Most have very low miles Cons Still super expensive More difficult swap than a B or D Well, there you have it people. I've outlined some of the pros cons on some of the most popular swaps. ############################################## H2B/F2B Pros: All pros of H22/F20B No custom mounts Tons of potential Cons: requires H2B adapter kit Requires MINOR usage of angle grinder Requires spacers under the hood For more H2B information http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1998426 ############################################## Check out the FAQ thread for more info on how to install them. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=642479 Most of these HP/TQ numbers were taken from Hmotors online if I didn't know them. Don't bite my head off if they aern't correct. I don't claim to be a walking encyclopedia, so I have had some help. CK ENGINE LIGHTS-pdiggitydogg Do you have a CEL? Dont just reset the ecu by pulling the battery's neg. cable. Sure, that will reset the light, but youre not finding out whats wrong with your car! The light will always come back, until you fix it. This is how you check your own cel (Check Engine Light), at home, without driving to a mechanic, auto store, dealer. Numbers for the light are listed farther below. 5 Easy to Follow Steps: 1) Get a CEL 2) On the passener side, remove the kick panel at the floor. Behind it, is your ecu and a jumper plug. 3) Locate the jumper plug (Civic 92-95 is grey, 96-00 its blue). Its a 2 pin plug. (I am not sure if the connector is in the same location for all hondas..I assume so - I dont know all the connector colors...) For EK, there is 1 brown wire and 1 black wire For EG, there is 1 tan wire and 1 green 4) WITH THE CAR OFF, insert either a 2pin connector clip, or loop a thin enough piece of wire into both holes on the connector. 5) Back in the driver's seat, turn the key to the 'ON' position. The CEL light will come on at startup, like normal, but it will then begin to flash. **By counting the number of flashes, you can decipher the CEL #. SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second) LONG flashes are 10's (1 second) -----CEL # List----- 1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1 2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2 3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor 4 CKP - crank position sensor 5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor 6 ECT - water temperature sensor 7 TPS - throttle position sensor 8 TDC - top dead centre sensor 9 CYP - cylinder sensor 10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor 12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve 13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor 14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve 15 Ignition output signal 16 Fuel injectors 17 VSS - speed sensor 19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve 20 Electrical load detector 21 VTEC spool solenoid valve 22 VTEC pressure valve 23 Knock sensor 30 Automatic transmission A signal 31 Automatic transmission B signal 36 traction control found on JDM ecu's 41 Primary oxygen sensor heater 43 Fuel supply system 45 Fuel system too rich or lean 48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor 54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor 58 TDC sensor #2 61 Primary oxygen sensor 63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit 65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires) 67 Cat Converter 71 random misfire cylinder 1 72 random misfire cylinder 2 73 random misfire cylinder 3 74 random misfire cylinder 4 80 EGR Valve/Line 86 ECT sensor - Cooling System 91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor 92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines ----- Now, if you take your OBD2 car (with cel) to a place that has a scanning tool (IE - AutoZone) the #'s will be different -> 5 digit codes. If you go that route, the #'s are available here: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=466877 (I have never used a scan tool, so I do not know the validity of that list.) ----- Now that you have the corresponding # for your light, you can begin to go about fixing it. How you do that, is your call, but there are lots of members here that can probably assist you with any issue. Once you have fixed the problem, reset the ecu, by either pulling the battery's neg. cable or pulling the ecu fuse itself. Happy fixing (All #'s were painstakingly pulled from a Helms manual)

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[Skip01]

Excellent info
Only thing is about the B20.Low hp only in B20b.(B20z=146hp)

[Ricey McRicerton]

Originally Posted by Skip01

Excellent info
Only thing is about the B20.Low hp only in B20b.(B20z=146hp)

Yeah, I don't claim to know anything. If anybody else finds stuff like that feel free to post it in here.

[Ricey McRicerton]

Haha, yeah I figured you guys would like that. Hell, half of the people on here have taken their stockers off and painted them or bought the ITR/CTR covers, so that's a pro.

[wagon-r]

Originally Posted by Ricey McRicerton

Well since this gets asked almost daily, me and BauleyCivic have decided that making a thread to showcase, if you will, the swaps.

Some intro swap information

Switching OBD motors

H22/JDM F20B

Pros
200 hp
H22=156 ft/lbs torque
F20B=145 ft/lbs torque
Great torque
DONT WEIGH THAT MUCH MORE THAN A B SWAP!!
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684550

The reference to the H22A weight thread is pretty accurate. I looked at some MVMA specs from Honda for the 1995 H22A compared to the B16A in the Del Sol and the H22A is only 33 pounds heavier. Add 6 extra pounds for the transmission and the whole swap is only 39 pounds heavier than an B16A.

HOWEVER - Note that the H22A mounts on a bit of a slant. This puts the weight of the drivetrain a little further forward on the car. Drag racers probably don't care, but it makes the car more nose-heavy for us autocrossers - i.e. more understeer.

[The Internet Tough Guy]

Originally Posted by Ricey McRicerton

B18C5 (or JDM B18C)
If JDM ITR is used, the 36mm axle 32mm hub problems occur

could you explain this a little more please? i've never heard of this, and will be putting a jdm itr tranny in soon.

[Ricey McRicerton]

Originally Posted by jwn7

could you explain this a little more please? i've never heard of this, and will be putting a jdm itr tranny in soon.

Not 100% on years, but Im pretty sure the JDM ITR 5 lug setup used a 36mm hub.

[Ricey McRicerton]

wow, so all of the what swap threads and I can't even make it off the first page on this one?

[The Internet Tough Guy]

hahah go figure.

so some of the jdm itr axles are 36mm instead of 32mm at the hub; but they're still the same as others on the tranny end. and likewise, any jdm itr tranny is like other B series ones. correct? just wanted to clear that up ...

basically if you're getting a jdm itr swap complete with axles, you need to get other B series axles instead for an eg+ civic - unless you've got the front hubs off the itr also.

[rexandfx]

Originally Posted by BauleyCivic

Bump because more of you idiots need to read this.

Completely agree.....
This (Might be a bit too extensive?)but oh well

--------------------- HONDA ENGINE SWAP GUIDE--------------------------------
GEN. YR-MODEL-CNTRY-CHASSIS-ENGINE-DISP-COMP-HP/TORQUE-TRANNY

5G ’94-’97 Accord DX/LX USA CD F22B2 2156 8.8:1 130hp@5300/139lb-ft@4200
5G ’94-’97 Accord EX USA CD F22B1 2156 8.8:1 145hp@5500/147lb-ft@4500
5G ’94-’97 Accord SiR Japan CD H22 2157 10.6:1 190hp@6800/152lb-ft@5500
4G ’90-’91 Accord USA CB F22A4 2156 8.8:1 130hp@5200/142lb-ft@4000
4G ’90-’93 Accord USA CB F22A1 2156 8.8:1 125hp@5200/137lb-ft@4000
4G ’91-’93 Accord USA CB F22A6 2156 8.8:1 140hp@5600/142lb-ft@4500
4G ’90-’93 Accord 2.0Si Japan CB F20A (twincam) 1997 9.5:1 150hp@6100/137lb-ft@5000
3G ’88-’89 Accord USA CA A20A3 1955 9.3:1 122hp
CIVIC
6G ’99-’00 Civic Si USA EM B16A 1595 10.2:1 160hp@7600/111lb-ft@7000 S4C
6G ’96-’00 Civic EX USA EJ D16Y8 1590 9.6:1 127hp@6600/107lb-ft@5500
6G ’97+ Civic Type R Japan EK B16B 1595 10.8:1 184hp@8200/118lb-ft@7500
6G ’96+ Civic SiR II Japan EK B16A 1595 10.4:1 168hp@7800/116lb-ft@7300 S4C
6G ’96+ Civic Vti Europe EK B16A 1595 10.4:1 168hp@7800/116lb-ft@7300
5G ’92-’95 Civic Si USA EG/EH D16Z6 1590 9.2:1 125hp@6600/106lb-ft@5200
5G ’92-’95 Civic SiR Japan EG B16A 1595 10.4:1 168hp@7800/116lb-ft@7300 Y21
and SiRII
4G ’89-’91 Civic Si USA ED D16A6 1590 9.1:1 108hp@6000/100lb-ft@5000
4G ’88-’91 Civic DX USA ED D15A 1493 92hp@6000 L3
4G ’90-’91 Civic EX USA ED D16A6 1595 113hp@6200 L3
4G ’89-’92 Civic 1.6i/VTi Europe EE/ED B16A1 1595 10.2:1 158hp@7600/111lb-ft@7000 Y1 (opt. LSD)
4G ’88-’91 Civic Si Japan EF ZC 1595 9.6:1 129hp@6800/106lb-ft@5700 L3
4G ’89-’92 Civic SiR Japan EF B16A 1595 10.2:1 158hp@7600/112lb-ft@7000 Y1 (opt. LSD)
(hatch)
4G ’90-’91 Civic SiR Japan EF B16A1 1595 10.4:1 160hp@7600/111lb-ft@7000
3G ’86-’87 Civic Si USA AH EW4 1488 8.7:1 91hp@5500/93lb-ft@4500 GM
3G ’86-’87 Civic Si Japan AT ZC 1595 9.6:1 129hp@6800/106lb-ft@5700 CG
CR-X/DEL SOL
5G ’94-’97 DelSol USA/Europe EG B16A3 1595 10.2:1 158ps@7600/112lb-ft@7000 Y21
VTEC/Vti-T
5G ’92-’95 CR-X/ USA EG D16Z6 1590 9.2:1 125hp@6600/106lb-ft@5200
del Sol Si
5G ’92-’96 del Sol Japan EG B16A 1595 10.4:1 168hp@7800 Y21 or S21
CR-X SiR
4G ’88-’91 CRX Si USA ED D16A6 1595 113hp@6200
4G ’88-’91 CRX DX USA ED D15A1 1493 92hp@6000 L3
4G ’89-’92 CR-X 1.6i/VTi Europe EE B16A1 1595 10.2:1 158hp@7600/111lb-ft@7000 Y1 (opt. LSD)
4G ’90-’91 CR-X SiR Japan EF B16A1 1595 10.4:1 160hp@7600/111lb-ft@7000
4G ’89-’92 CR-X Si16/1.6i Japan EF ZC 1595 9.6:1 129hp@6800/106lb-ft@5700

4G ’89-’92 CR-X SiR Japan EF B16A 1595 10.2:1 158hp@7600/112b-ft@7000 Y1 (opt. LSD)
3G ’84-’87 CR-X HF USA EF D15A2 (carbed) 1488 58hp
3G ’85-’87 CR-X Si USA AD EW4 1488 91hp@5500/93lb-ft@4500 GM
3G ’85-’87 CR-X Si Japan AS ZC 1595 9.6:1 129hp@6800/106lb-ft@5700 CG
INTEGRA
3G ’94-’00 Integra GS-R USA DC B18C1 1797 10.0:1 170hp@7600/128lb-ft@6200 Y80
3G ’94-’00 Integra USA DC B18B1 1834 9.2:1 142hp@6300/127lb-ft@5200 S80, Y80
LS/RS/GS
3G ’97-’98, ’00 Integra Type R USA DC B18C5 1797 10.6:1 195hp@8000/130lb-ft@7500 S80
3G ’95-’97 Integra SiR Japan DC B18C 1797 10.6:1 178hp@7600/129lb-ft@6200 Y80,S80(opt. LSD)
3G ’95-’00 Integra Type R Japan DC/DB B18C 1797 11.0:1 197hp@8000/134lb-ft@7500 S80 LSD
2G ’90-’91 Integra GS USA DB B18A1 1834 9.2:1 130hp@6000/121lb-ft@5000 YS1
2G ’92-’93 Integra GS USA DB B18A1 1834 9.2:1 140hp@6300/121lb-ft@5200 YS1
2G ’92-’93 Integra GS-R USA DB B17A1 1678 10.0:1 160hp@7600/117lb-ft@7000 YS1
2G ’90-’93 Integra Japan DB ZC 1590 9.0:1 119hp@6300/105lb-ft@5500 S1, A1, J1
2G ’90-’91 Integra XSi/RSi Japan DA B16A 1595 10.2:1 158hp@7600/112lb-ft@7000 S1, A1, J1
2G ’92-’93 Integra XSi/RSi Japan DA B16A 1595 10.2:1 158hp@7600/112lb-ft@7000 YS1 (opt. LSD)
1G ’88-’89 Integra USA DA D16A3 1590 9.5:1 118hp@5500/103lb-ft@5500 CG
1G ’86-’87 Integra USA DA D16A1 1590 9.5:1 113hp@6250/99lb-ft@5500 CG
1G ’86-’89 Integra Japan AV ZC 1590 9.6:1 129hp@6800/106lb-ft@5700 CG
PRELUDE
5G ’99+ Prelude USA BB6 H22A 2157 10.0:1 200hp@7000/156lb-ft@5250
5G ’97-’98 Prelude USA BB6 H22A1 2157 10.0:1 195hp@7000/156lb-ft@5250
5G ’97+ Prelude SiR Japan BB H22A 2157 10.6:1 200@6800rpm/161lb-ft@5500
5G ’97+ Prelude Type S Japan BB H22A 2157 11.0:1 220@7200rpm/163lb-ft@6500
4G ’92-’96 Prelude S USA BB F22A1 2156 8.8:1 135hp@5200/142lb-ft@4000
4G ’92-’96 Prelude Si/SE USA BB2 H23A1 2258 9.8:1 160hp@5800/156lb-ft@4500
4G ’94-’96 Prelude VTEC USA BB1 H22A1 2156 10.0:1 190hp@6800/158lb-ft@5500
4G ’92-’96 Prelude Si Japan BA F22 2156 160hp@6000/148lb-ft@5000
(DOHC, non VTEC)
4G ’92-’96 Prelude VTEC Japan BB H22 2157 10.6:1 200@6800/161lb-ft@5500
3G ’90-’91 Prelude 2.0S USA BA B20A3 1958 9.1:1 104hp@5800/111lb-ft@4000
3G ’90-’91 Prelude 2.0Si USA BA B20A5 1958 9.0:1 135hp@5800/111lb-ft@4000
3G ’90-’91 Prelude Si USA BA B21A1 2056 9.4:1 140hp@5800/135lb-ft@5000
3G ’88-’89 Prelude Si USA BA B20A5 1958 9.0:1 135hp K4
THE ODDBALLS
’99+ SMX Japan B20Z 1972 9.6:1 146hp@6200/133lb-ft@4500
’97-’98 CR-V USA RD B20B 1972 8.8:1 126hp@5400/133lb-ft@4300





Modified by rexandfx at 6:11 PM 6/1/2004

[Snail Tuning]

the d16y8 is the EX motor from 96-00
and its in the SI untill 99 then the SI got the b16a in 99.

this engine can very easily be dropped into a 5th gen buy just changing some wireing around. Personaly i would swap in an obd2 engine into an obd1 before i would ever do and obd0 into an obd1. because u can always not use options off of the obd2. like the crank angle sensor located in the oil pump housing. u won't use that in a 5th gen.

also something to consider. to eliminate even moe usless threads. would be to search for dyno resaults and give an idea of what hp level each motor with boltons would produce. this would eliminate what 1/4 mile times or hp levels will i reach with I/H/E. just a thought. also listing what average hp level can be reached boosting a stock block might be helpfull aswell.

[The Internet Tough Guy]

Originally Posted by bmcc72

Personaly i would swap in an obd2 engine into an obd1 before i would ever do and obd0 into an obd1.

it's also worth mentioning that it is illegal in all 50 states to put an older engine in a newer car. you have to use an engine of the same year of your car or one that is newer. if your state has emissions checks or anything of that nature, you may want to consider that first.

[dsmguy]

i was told the only engines worth swapping into a honda are the b18, or the h22 and that the h22 is a dificult swap into a 93 civiv ex. so is my best bet going with the b18?

[BauleyCivic]

Originally Posted by dsmguy

i was told the only engines worth swapping into a honda are the b18, or the h22 and that the h22 is a dificult swap into a 93 civiv ex. so is my best bet going with the b18?

In terms of ease of difficulty? Yes.

[wagon-r]

It really depends on how much work you want to do after the swap. If you are going to add a turbo or do extensive internal modifications, the B18 is the best choice. However, if you just want to do a swap and forget about it, the B16A is better than the non-VTEC B18. It's cheaper and it puts out more power. The additional torque from the B18 is nice, but in stock form it's only equivalent to about 15 hp and the B16A puts out 20 hp more than the non-VTEC B18. The GSR and Type R engines are better, but they are far more expensive than a B16A (and the GSR in stock form only puts out about 10 % more torque/hp than the B16A above 5000 rpm).

The H22A is far cheaper than the GSR ITR engines and puts out more power, but you have to put a lot more money into engine mounts, axles, etc. Also, while it doesn't weigh that much more than a b18 (about 40 # including trans), it's weight is a little further forward which negatively affects handling.

[poison]

Originally Posted by jwn7

could you explain this a little more please? i've never heard of this, and will be putting a jdm itr tranny in soon.

The tranny itself is no different than any other B series tranny. He is referring to the full JDM B18C R full swap -- which comes with 36mm hub axles -- where as all US ITR axles, and the JDM CTR axles are 32mm hub.

Any 92+ B series axles will work, however.

[poison]

Originally Posted by wagon-r

The H22A is far cheaper than the GSR ITR engines and puts out more power, but you have to put a lot more money into engine mounts, axles, etc. Also, while it doesn't weigh that much more than a b18 (about 40 # including trans), it's weight is a little further forward which negatively affects handling.

It weighs roughly 35 more lbs than a B series, which "technically" negatively affects handling, but this is where suspension comes into play.

This is the same for a D series motor in an EG or EK with stock suspension, and throwing in a B series.

Will negative handling be affected? Of course.

Can suspension be modified to handle that? Hmm...

Same rules apply.

[DaX]

I currently have a B18A1 swap in my car. The conversion wasn't that bad at all.

Injectors - I ran civic injectors for a few weeks until I could get 94+ Teg injectors. No problem.

Throttle cable - B-series. You have to do this no matter the OBD.

Distributor - Had to source an OBD-1 LS distributor...probably the most pricey thing.

Mounts - 94+ Teg rear mount, Del Sol VTEC driver mount & Bracket. I also went with the Del Sol VTEC AC bracket to retain AC on the car.

Tranny - I bought the HA Sport conversion. I hate HA Sport now [assholes to me...customer no-service], so in a few weeks I'll be coming out with my own Cable to Hydro conversion, for about 1/4 the cost of the HA Sport kit. Mine won't have the bling bling billet mount though.

ECU - really any OBD-1 ECU. I had a P75 for a while...I run a P28 now [CEL for no VTEC stuff, but runs great].

Axles - 94+ Teg. AutoZone special.

o2 Sensor - I drive a VX...converting to 4 wire was kind of difficult, but I got it all worked out.

[TrickHonda98]

no matter what, i still love my B18C5 w/B16 head. I took that out my old 95 Civic, banged up the 98's engine bay to get it in there.
I did that cause the 95 was pissing me off.
I reccomend b16's b18's and h22s all the time

[Ricey McRicerton]

Good to see this has been stickied and is actually getting some use. Where's my 500% dustin

[Ricey McRicerton]

Originally Posted by branch

step away from his balls, and put your tounge back in your mouth...

haha, step away from the box wine and the stairs boy.

[Grimmi03]

I want to do an engine swap in my car but i don't know what parts would i need. if i'm putting an Engine from an 99 Civic Si to my 95 Civic EX [u]which part will i need to bring from the SI to my Civic EX to have it work Perfect and Fast.

[BrianDelSol]

I was wondering what you guys would do, i have a 96 del sol, and am going to do an engine swap, should i buy a b18b right now (have the money) or should i save and get a b16a2?

[vtech1]

Hey guys, good info, but i have a question... The new civic(what are they on? 7th gen now?) the 02++ models.. i was wondering how easy it is for swaps on those, or if that new series of D' motors have good potential, I wan'ted to get an RSX-S, but being practical, it costs alil too much for me for the insurance, and the gas... so i was thinking about getting a 04 civic HX, two door, drive it around for awhile stock.. then eventually do a swap. Any knowlegde to be shared? thanks guy..

[Dreamworx]

Well i don't know wheter or not this is the right thread but, i have some questions for you swappers out there.

Car-92 honda civic si

engine possibilities...
b16a2
b16 (out of ctr)
b18(out of gsr)
b18c5

Now here are the questions...
1.When i swap the motor in, if it is a jdm motor, will i be able to use the jdm harness and ecu? or will i have to tote around on the factory d16z6 until i can get a computer upgrade? ( my love and joy before honda was Rx-7s and a jdm required a usdm harness or to extend the jdm harness)
2. Will it mate up to my current exhaust or will i have to have a custom cat pipe made?
3. What are any complications that i might run into... murphys law is always in effect when working on cars(I know i turn wrenches on Mercedes-Benz's for a living)?
4. How fast will my car?(i.e.-quarter mile times.. be a pessimist)
5. As far as upgrades go, the car will not get a turbo, as i will drive this car everyday as i do right now. What kinda gains would i get with cams and cam gears...I really dont want to pull apart the bottom end to make power?
6. I cant think of anything else.

Peace thanks and kudo's to ricerton,
Steve