Quik Chris

Nice dude, good to hear. I'm suprised that I was the first guy to know how to wire the Z1 harness for your application. But no engine lights is the sweetest ever, and the car will probably get better gas milage as well as run a little better. I was just looking at this thread the other day wondering what had happened.

Best of luck with the car and school man, take it easy.

dremmel

whats up with that pic posting? i got the same swap goin on. well sort of D15B vtec in my 92 vx using vx wire harness , but want to use 4wire o2 and P28 ecu. all those posts kinda got me confuzzled

turbo_ef9

i havne't read anything up there but when i had my vx and was doing a z6 motor into it, i just used an si harness and slapped it in.. ran fine... no re-wiring..

tighe

here are some pics:

http://www.hondaswap.com/forum...14242

Also, I have a 4 wire sensor that I will trade for a 5 wire.

email me at partspuller@hotmail.com if interested.

thanks

street dreams

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got you covered.... This is the easiest way IMHO, theres no use in routing wires to the ECU and everything else. Here's the diagram and pictures of mine. No more 02 CEL. P72 and P28 is the exact same in this case.



_



Modified by Quik Chris at 9:44 AM 11/17/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
where the hell was this diagram at when i had to do mines a yr ago. i ended up wiring all the wire straight to the ecu

s2000june

im running d16y8 on my vx im just using the 5 wire o2 on the 00 ex downpipe it fits
havent started car yet

Built B16A

. (need for refferance from going from P07 to P28)

Built B16A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JV digs in his notepad and comes up with:

yel/blk - A25 - 12V switched
org/blk - A6 - O2 heater control
grn/wht - D22 - sensor ground
wht/red - D14 - O2 signal wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure? I'm trying to wire in a 4 wire on a VX harness. The HELM says to use A23 instead of A25, but I'm still getting code 41. Maybe today I'll try wiring to A25.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im going through this now. using the Z1 harness with a P28 ECU.

i plan on getting the 4 wire O2, and wirring stright to the ECU.

lets get the 12V switched power stright.

yel/blk is the switched power wire. my schematic shows "A25-IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o" which also connects to B1 also.

and DAX's dispute of using A23 as being PG1 ground. so.. whats what? sounds like they're both grounds to me.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Ok, let's see if I can clarify this all in one post.

*You're using a P28 in a VX chassis with the Z1 engine harness. This is so you can use a 4-wire o2 sensor, which the P28 requires, while retaining the original engine harness and not having to re-wire for VTEC.

*You're going to need a donor 4-wire o2 plug that you chop off of another engine harness...or you can run wires directly to the ECU [I can't do that...I'm a neat freak].

*Get a good 4-wire o2 sensor. I highly recommend the NTK sensor.

************************************************** *******

You can either do it like I did...where I use a plug from a donor harness and run all the wires inside the harness, so that you don't have ugly random wires running all over the place....or you can run wires from the sensor directly to the ECU.

1. If using it, your 4-wire plug from the donor harness will be female [the plug on the o2 sensor is male] and will have the following wires coming from it:

GRN/WHT
WHT
ORN/BLK
YEL/BLK

2. The Z1 engine harness actually has 7 wires going to the plug for the 5-wire o2 sensor, and they are as follows:

GRN/WHT
ORN/BLU
YEL/BLK
BLK
WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN

3. Four of these wires in the Z1 harness will not be used. The ones not being used are:

BLK
WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN

4. These unused wires go to the control circuit in the P07 ECU for the wideband sensor, and it will not hurt for them to not be connected to anything. I recommend wrapping them up pretty good with some electrical tape though.

5. Cut the 5-wire o2 plug [actually containing 7 wires] off of the Z1 harness [you may actually want to simply splice the following wires in so you could always switch back to using the wideband sensor and the P07 ECU...that is up to you], and solder/connect the following wires:

o2 Wires | 4-wire plug | VX Harness | ECU Pinout | Function
GRN--------GRN/WHT----GRN/WHT--------D22-------Sensor Ground
WHT----------WHT--------ORN/BLU---------D14-------o2 Sensor Output Signal
BLK---------ORN/BLK-----YEL/BLK----------A6--------Heater Control [Ground]
BLK---------YEL/BLK---*SEE PARAGRAPH BELOW*--12V Switched

6. As you no doubt know, the ECU of the Honda PGMFI system activates sensors by grounding them out...the sensors are fed constant power. One of the BLK o2 wires [the one going to the YEL/BLK wire on the 4-wire plug] is where the 12V switched goes into the sensor. For running wires directly to the ECU, you can use either Pin A25 or B1 at the ECU...both of which are YEL/BLK and are 12V switched.

7. I did mine different. Instead of feeding the sensor 12V from the ECU, I fed the sensor 12V from where it would come from in the harness if it were a Z6 harness. On the driver shock tower, there is the infamous "dead end plug" with 8 YEL/BLK wires running to it [if it's a Z6 harness], or 7 YEL/BLK wires running to it, in this case with a Z1 harness. This "dead end plug" is a 12V power distribution point for many control devices on the engine. The wires to this plug go to the following things:

*12V in to the distribution plug [don't know where this comes from]
*12V to Injector #1
*12V to Injector #2
*12V to Injector #3
*12V to Injector #4
*12V to IACV
*12V to Charcoal Canister Purge Solenoid
*12V to 4-wire o2 sensor [on the Z6 harness]. This wire is not present on the Z1 harness.

You can connect one of the black wires on the o2 sensor [or the YEL/BLK wire on the plug from the donor harness if you're doing it that way] to any one of these wires. You can even run a wire and pin it at the empty 8th place on the dead end plug if you want. Quik Chris simply tapped into the YEL/BLK wire right at the Injector #4 plug. I removed my harness, unwound the loom, and tapped into the YEL/BLK 12V power wire going to the IACV. Any of them will do fine, and if you do it this way, you will not have unsightly wires anywhere, and all your wiring will be internal to the harness, meaning you won't have to cut wires or have more connections when removing the harness.

*****************************************

I hope this was helpful and not too confusing. I'm always ready to help people on this site...because they help me when I need it. If something needs clarifying, someone wants pictures, or if someone notices a mistake in my method, please post/PM/email me.


Modified by DaX at 2:35 PM 10/20/2004

Built B16A

wow dax..

ok.. your deff. the man for breaking down this info on the Z1 harness.

i won't be able to get into this untill next week, cuz im pre-socketed for managment, and my parts wont be in till next week.. and i still haven't had a chance to track down a O2. i plan on doing it the clean way, and running that 12V lead inside the loom. that way i can stay plug and play off the Z1 O2 harness.

again DAX.. thank you.. i'll keep you posted.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I uploaded this explanation into the H-T knowledge database if anyone wants to reference it...search for "oxygen sensor"

adobospoon

Sorry if im bringing this back from the grave but got a question. Is it really necessary getting a 4 wire harness. Because I was thinking if I can just use my 5 wire harness and just repin the 4 wire o2 sensor onto the 5 wire harness o2 sensor.

adobospoon

anybody

adobospoon

please help me. Needing my car to run soon.

adobospoon

so nobody has done this. I just want to know if I can still reuse my old harness and repin the new 4 wire o2 onto it.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Did you get it figured out?