jamvisuals

A little back story on the car. Car normally starts up and drives fine, but for the past couple of weeks it would start right up and about a minute later would act like it was about to die. When I say this I mean the rpms would be low and while stepping on the gas the car still felt sluggish but evntually after about 5-10sec the engine would return back to regular operation and would accelerate normally and then I would have no problems until the next day.

Now I was driving the car last week I went to get gas and came back home and the car was driving fine. I went out 2 hours later on the same day and nothing seemed out of the ordinary, but I came to a red light and the car was idling fine, BUT as soon as the light turned green I stepped on the gas to go and the car immediately just shut off and all of the dash lights came on. I pulled into the gas station and tried to start the car again but it wouldn't come back on. Lights are radio all still worked.

I had the car towed back and checked for spark. I assume I did it right I pulled each spark plug wire and put a screwdriver in each one while grounded AS WELL as used a spark tester once we went to the parts store and NONE of the plugs were getting spark. So took off the distributor cap and connected the spark tester to the ignition coil and still no spark. So I swapped out the ignition coil for a new one and the car started for a few seconds and died back out and right back to the condition that is was at to begin with. I am assuming I am getting fuel since each time the car has been cranked you can smell the gas but if needed will pull the fuel line and check. I also tried some starter fluid and the car still wouldn't start and I read that it would point to an ignition problem if starter fluid won't start the car.

I have an aftermarket viper 791xv alarm which has an immobilizer, but can't that be ruled out since usually the car wouldn't even try to crank and for the fact that after replacing the coil the car DID turn over and start for a few seconds?

So my question is since I am not getting spark and have replaced the ignition coil and it started up for a brief second and shut right back off what could the culprit be?

Former User

Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON(II)?

Any CEL codes?

Have you checked whether the timing belt snapped?

Have you asked an auto parts store to test the igniter unit inside the distributor?

jamvisuals

I believe I heard the pump priming each time, but I will also doulbe check that as well just to have accurate results.

I disconnected the battery while undoing the ignition coil so the CEL cleared. It comes on for a few seconds and then goes off and doesn't come back on when cranking the car.

I would assume the timing belt has not snapped since the distributor rotor is turning while trying to crank the car.

I guess I will take the ignitor out of the car and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it as well as the new coil and post the results.

I have also checked all fuses under the dash and the engine and will recheck them as well.

Former User

If the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit has battery voltage with the key in ON(II), then my guess is that the igniter unit is bad. But still have it tested before buying a new one. Also consider that the life of the distributor is about 150K miles, so if its near the end of its life, just replace the entire distributor.

jaredperry

I would check the distributor cap/rotor. It is likely that this has a bit of wear due to high mileage.

Former User

This seems unlikely given that the OP has had the distributor open to replace the coil.

jamvisuals

Ok checked the fuel pump and it is priming as I can hear it when the key is turned to ON(II) it makes a whirring noise and then goes off.

The car has 22x,xxx miles so I'll just replace the entire thing and hopefully be good to go. Is it hard to replace if I have general mechanic knowledge or does it require messing with the timing?

Former User

These can be found in the FAQs sticky:

jamvisuals

Ok thanks for the help. I bought a new distributor, but when going to put the rotor on the shaft, I noticed that the screw WILL NOT thread into the shaft to secure the rotor, and since the rotor only goes on one way and only has one bolt hole located on the side of the shaft where the bolt WILL NOT thread in would this mean I was given the wrong dizzy or do I ned to get a rotor that has both openings on both sides? Sorry if this is a simple question but this is all new to me