SHG_EasyE

They are the same as before - FEEL's dampers. They are made for FEEL's by Aragosta, and AST works very closely with Aragosta here in the states. Basically a sister company for sales and support in the states. I sent the shocks to AST to get rebuilt and revalved for the new spring rates.

AST is also now the main sponsor/suspension provider for the Grand AM Continental racing series.

SHG_EasyE

Yeah man I could, but if I did it up here it would have to be through Flatout. If you can get a welder Id be happy to weld some stuff up for you next time Im down there

^Sammy]!.

Nice welding Evan

SHG_Claudio

18k

I can swing by anytime, lmk when and I'll come through!

SHG_EasyE

Well my suspension is different than yours. The shock is mounted farther inboard meaning it as a lower motion ratio (6.6) so the extra leverage of the wheel makes an 18k spring act like a 10 or 11k spring....

Motion Ratio defined:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motion_ratio

SHG_Claudio

Oh I see. Yeah I was reading up on Motion ratio a few days ago when I was looking at this guy's cantilever rear suspension on his EG. Its interesting how that works.

Btw, this shot ftw! My inspiration.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w.../P10000282.jpg

Connor

iTrader: (1)

Yea no I would bring it to you. I figure once i get the car on the road I can drive with the bar in the back then maybe fit it and what not so it fits nice and snug. It wouldn't be for awhile just didn't know if it was something you could do at the shop. Next time your down this way I'll let you take a look at it.

MJ23FE

Good stuff on the suspension. AST is def on my short list when my OEM Bilsteins blow.

-Jalal

SHG_EasyE

Wrd that was the first iteration of the EG... thats some throwback ****!

Cool man, get as much of the fitting done as you can before you come up, we charge $95/hr so the less work that has to be done at flatout the better for you Im hoping to make it down later in May, Ill let you guys know.

For sure man, their customer service is also pretty good.

93allmotorcoupe

Evan glad to see you're still doing your thing! Progress looks great as usual, wouldn't expect anything less from you

SHG_EasyE

Thanks Eddie! Are you going to make it to the shg BBQ on July 3rd?

Btw sorry for the lack of posts lately... Just got do e moving but were stil unpacking and stuff. I'll throw up some pics as soon as our Internet and cable gets hooked up next week

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

worrrddddd get unpacked and do work!

SHG_EasyE

Pretty much all unpacked now, just spent the whole day Sunday sweeping and hosing off all the winter sand from the driveway. I've also set up the garage which is a decent amount bigger than the old one, and did some work on the car

I'm relocating my head unit so I'll have an update that I'll post tomorrow on lunch at work- still no internets at home -__-

oh and the homie Mike might have sourced a bomb deal from one of his connects so fingers crossed

MJ23FE

Sweet! Can't wait to see some updates!

-Jalal

SHG_James

Quick question about your spring rates. You went with 12k/18k right? Why didn't you go with a 10k front? I read, because of the motion ratio of the ep3/dc5 suspension, the rear has to almost be double what the front spring rate is. Wouldn't the 10k be a better choice since its a 559lb spring and 18k is a 1007lb spring? 12k is 671lb I believe.

SHG_EasyE

I want to reduce body roll with front spring, so a 10k spring would still have been a bit soft. I originally wanted to run 1100 rear spings to start but I got a sweet deal on the 1000's so I figured Id start with those. I can go +4k with the new valving, so I have plenty of room to go stiffer in the rear to tune the car.

Last time I was on the track I was running the OTS rates which were 5k 8k (lol) and honestly the car felt really good. So this setup is the same F to R bias as before, just stiffer. So less roll and a higher wheel frequency will help the handling even with the same bias. I can go more aggressive if I want, but using logic instead of by-the-book tuning I think this will be a good starting point.

Remember, textbook tuning isnt always the right way to tune

SHG_EasyE

So heres the first real update in quite some time....

Well, the rear shocks still havent come, so I had to put some stock rear shocks in the car to drive it from the old place to the new house. The car has been tucked away in the garage since, and I just started working on it again since I have some down time until I get the shocks.

I decided I wanted a cleaner look for the dash so I am going to re locate the head unit and put a carbon block for the entire double din area on the dash. Should look pretty nice

I started with finding a new spot for the deck. I wanted to keep the glove box functional, so that wasnt an option. I ended up deciding to mount it under the passenger seat. There is plenty of room for the seat to slide back and forth, and the front of the deck is easily accessible from infront of the seat.

Fabbed up some mounting brackets:



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Mounted them to the deck with some M5 cap screws



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Then I had to have a way to bolt this down to the chassis. Instead of doing something half assed like using zip screws I used some M5 nutserts

I used this spot weld cutter to cut small access holes in the carpet





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Then used the nutsert tool to install provide a threaded hole to bolt the brackets to





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Thats all for now, the pictures I took of the deck bolted in came out super blurry so Ill have to take new ones and post up with the rest of the update tomorrow

markspan6243

whats the point of helper springs. and why no more remote adjustment for the shocks?

R81DC4

I must say, that stereo relocation seems like a really cool idea!

SHG_EasyE

I needed the helper springs because I went from 8" springs to 6" springs. I did this for more room for adjustment and less unsprung weight. The helper spring is there to keep the spring held firm in it's seat so it doesn't flop around at full droop.

I still have the remote adjusters but they are only on the rear. No nee for them on the front.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Head unit location is sweet! Reminds me of when I mounted a Kenwood 10-disc changer under my old 1989 Camry passenger seat back in the 90's. Although your mounting method is a ton better. I actually made a little wooden platform with a channel underneath to direct the rear seat heater duct under the platform, and then mounted the changer on top of the platform.

TCIHonda

Tip my hat off for all the Custom work! looks great FEELS Twincam!

SHG_EasyE

Part 2 of the head unit install!

So last night I started with the extended wiring harness. I ran it with the oem harness through the center console, so naturally I loomed and wrapped it exactly like Honda did.

Loom where there are areas that may see contact and chafing and tape wrap where the wires are tucked away beneath the console...





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Seamless





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Then I ran iPod and aux cords to the center console pocket where they can plug into a media device and stay hidden from sight



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And here it is installed. These pictures are with the seat all the way back, perfect access! And when the seat is forward in the normal position it's safe from getting hit by feet.

^Sammy]!.

That's ILLLLLLLLLLLLLL work there E

R81DC4

I LOVE IT