RanCRX

Howdy,

Well I am having troubles diagnosing the blower motor. One day I had my heater on and I turned the car off with the heater and blower motor still on, when I get back in the car and turn on the car, there is no wind coming out the vents and its set to max. I tryed cool position, and speed positons, nothing works.

I tryed looking under my dashboard for a fuse, but I could only find the heater one, which does not have a fuse in the slot, but I put one there anyway (30 amp fuse). I checked the egnine bay fusebox and nothing dealing with the blower motor.

I looked at my crx workshop manual and it says the blower motor contains a 30 amp fuse under the dashboard. I look again but there is not number 19, although theres a seperate fuse slot clipped onto the right side of the fusebox (white/yellowish color).

So i'm pretty confused if the blower motor for the vent has a fuse. I'm trying to diagnose the smaller problems first, but worse case scenario I may need to replace the blower motor.

Any help is gladly appreciated.

elf469

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/heat-not-working-2225295/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/blower-motors-works-speeds-3-4-but-not-1-2-fix-how-2082345/

RanCRX

That helps out a little bit showing the blower motor wiring diagram. All I can guess if it is not a fuse, its the blower motor relay or the blower motor itself.

The reason is, the blower motor doesn't turn on at all, I feel heat in the vents, but the fan does not blow.

Any other suggestions on the location of the blower motor fuse? I will try to jump the relay and see if its functioning properly, if I can find that also.

RanCRX

I found out it could also be the resistor.

But first I need to locate the fuse

RanCRX

Well I found out that the blower motor fuse is actually the auxillary fuse attached to the dash fuse box. But it is not blown. i switched out the fuse with a new one and even swapped with other components fuses, none of them are blown.

I checked the resisters ohms, it is fine, i read ohms in all positions, nothing is open (OL). Then I also checked the plug that plugs into the resistor, and it has voltage.

The thing is, I feel heat in my vents, it barely blows when the car is moving but does not move when the car is at idle but you can feel heat. I turn it to cold, I feel cold in the vents, but it only barely blows if the car is moving. Keep in mind that the blower motor is not working during this whole period.

Therefore, I know it is the blower motor or climate control. If it was the blower motor's relay stuck closed, then i'd assume there wouldn't be any power to the resistor?

So all that's is left is the climate control and the blower motor.


Any help is gladly appreciated.

jlicrx

1990hondacrx

if u look on top of the blower motor box the white one behind the glove box there is a little black resistor on it with a wire to it believe 2 screws take it out a lot of time lint and trash can get on that can cause it to burn up mine was like that and it worked on high only 123 didn't work but 4 did i changed that and it worked perfect that could be your problem and it takes 2 mins to check

RanCRX

Thanks Jlicrx, I saved it, and gonna give it a go tomorrow morning since I have to work in a few minutes.

And 1990honda crx, well it does look burnt, but I already got a multimeter and tested all 4 pin/positions on the resistor pack and they are all showing ohm's. How much ohm's it should be I don't know, but they're varying but also some of them meet at 3 ohms which it shouldn't do although I'm using a ghetto multimeter from a friend. None of the pins are open (OL) meaning nothing is broke.

I can get another resistor pack from the local autoparts store but it has to be ordered and if it doesn't fix the problem then I won't be able to get a refund.

I'm gonna diagnose it tomorrow, and I'll come to that conclusion, whether it be the climate control, resistor pack, or the blower motor itself.

Thanks all

4drEF

Do the voltage checks.
Sounds like you aren't getting power.

You feel the warm and cool air in the vents because the vent is opening, but the blower isn't pushing the air.
The air is just sitting there and blowing very lightly as you drive.

RanCRX

Well I did the tests as the pages Jlicrx provided, and I got to the part on jumping the blower motor.

The blower motor did not run, even set on speeds. So I'm going to pull a new blower motor this coming monday.

I'm gonna try to jump it one more time, but I doubt it will work.

GodofAtheism

check and make sure nothing fell into the motor jamming it, also try putting power straight to the motor before you replace it so you know its actually bad.

hatchet_honda

if you jumped the motor...and the blower still fails to run..id say its the blower.

Marcos Barrios

I know it's an old thread but just how did you guys jump the blower motor?
is it the two blue wires under the motor itself?
mine has 12 volts going into both of them this is why i'm asking how you jump it?

jlicrx

connect a jumper wire with one end going to the blue with black stripe wire and the other end going to ground - the motor should run - if not, you need a new motor

RedRocket91

Thanks to everybody for all the good info - especially the troubleshooting guides. This thread was very helpful to me as I tried to figure out why my blower wasn't blowing. Ruled out the blower motor and the resistor. Now I have some searching to do to figure out what else could be the problem.

Dead CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the revive. But I figured, this thread comes up with a google search on the blower motor on this model car, so why not use it.

I just walked through a few steps and saw that I get voltage at the Blower motor plug in every speed. the motor is not working.

I'm assuming it's the blower itself. Unless I'm completely missing something, am I?

I mean Power at the plug to the motor, motor not working. has to be the blower... correct me if I'm wrong.

thanks.

tech8

With the ignition turned ON, the positive side (+) of the blower motor wiring is always hot if the fuse is good, it just needs the negative ground (-) source through the resistor or heater control panel; the ground sources are controlled by the heater control panel.

To test the motor, disconnect the 2-pin connector from the blower motor. Attach one end of a piece of spare wire to the cavity (where the Blue/Blk wire is on the connector). With the connector plugged back in, touch/attach the other end of the wire to a ground source (the other end of the piece of wire touching exposed metal on the car (like a metal bracket). Turn the ignition ON, does the blower motor now run?

Dead CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. I just tried and it did not work.

tech8

The motor is probably bad, as you already verified voltage/power on one side of the motor and now added ground, where it still does not run.

Dead CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. I'll definitely report back when I get one.

Dead CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Sure was the motor. thanks.

EFvtec Yo!

I came across this thread on a good search as well and I am getting nothing out of my blower motor. I jumped it as stated above and it does come on so I know the blower motor is good. I have replaced the resistor and verified that the fuse is good. What else could it be besides the actual climate control unit?

4drEF

Check fuses.
Do the voltage checks coming out the resistor.

tech8

"With the ignition turned ON, the positive side (+) of the blower motor wiring is always hot if the fuse is good, it just needs the negative ground (-) source through the resistor or heater control panel; the ground sources are controlled by the heater control panel."


If you jumped the Blu/Blk wire to ground and the fan motor worked, it means the motor is good and Fuse No. 19 (30A) is good. Since you already replaced the resistor, that would leave the fan switch (which is part of the heater control panel) or the ground wiring coming from ground G201 to the heater control panel as the possible issue.

To test:

1. At the back of the heater control panel is a 6-P white connector (Connector C421). Unplug that connector, then test for continuity to ground on the black wire of white connector's terminal cavity no. 1.

To test for continuity, set the multimeter to either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together.

If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

Touch one end of the multimeter to terminal pin no. 1 (black wire) and the other end to body ground (for example, metal bracket on car chassis). There should be continuity to ground. If there is no continuity to ground, then the issue may be the black wiring coming from ground G201.

2. Unplug the 6-P white Connector C421, Attach one end of a piece of spare wire to the cavity terminal no. 1 (where the Blk wire is on the connector). With the connector plugged back in, touch/attach the other end of the wire to a ground source (the other end of the piece of wire touching exposed metal on the car (like a metal bracket). Turn the ignition ON, does the blower motor now run at all selected speed positions 1 through 4? If the blower fan does not work in all speeds, the heater control panel may be faulty.

EFvtec Yo!

tech8...you are the man! I had a unattached wire coming out of G201 (white connector near the headlight). Thanks a lot for the useful information!