What grit paper?

[fcjohnny]

Getting my track car painted by macco ( say what you want but it's not going to change my mind ) the car is currenly 4 differen colors lol. I wanted to sand the body myself instead of paying macco. What grit paper should I use? Should I wet sand it or just sand it normal?

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[shocker911]

you can do it many ways

1.maroon scuff pads
2.320 grit dry paper
3.400 grit wet

i would rather 320 the entire car but thats just me...hate hate scuffing and wet sanding

[gorillafart]

i'd have to go with a grey scuff pad
400 or 500 sand paper
600 wet

i'd rather scuff the whole car

[prelude1897]

can do one of the suggested techniques mentioned above. All you really need to do is scuff up the clear coat.

[fcjohnny]

Thanks for all the replys. The car was rattled canned by the previous owner so should i sand down the spray paint..

[t70accord]

no just prep it real good and it should be fine. Use gray scotchbrite pads just knock the shine off and your ready to go.

[jcdimvic]

I have seen automotive paint stick to rattle can like a fly on shit before and i have also seen it lift the rattle can. I personally like to take all the rattle can off before the paint is applied.

[christmastree]

Originally Posted by shocker911

you can do it many ways

1.maroon scuff pads
2.320 grit dry paper
3.400 grit wet

i would rather 320 the entire car but thats just me...hate hate scuffing and wet sanding

Only 320 if it is getting sealed though. I would go with a da and 600 then maroon scuff pad personally but its opinion

[shocker911]

^ im assumeing it would be...i would spray base dwn without it

[christmastree]

Originally Posted by shocker911

^ im assumeing it would be...i would spray base dwn without it

What exactly do you mean?

[Transpoquick]

Rattle can has got to go. Use 120 or 240 on a DA to cut the can off then 320 to remove the scratches, then 320 then a red scuff, then where you burn through mist on a good self etching primer like SEM, at that point you should be ready for Base/clear or single stage.
If you burn through alot prime the whole car and start over with the paper and Da.
or just take it to Maco and let them shoot over the Can but they may tell you no....cause even Maco has standards. Good Luck!

[fcjohnny]

Originally Posted by Transpoquick

Rattle can has got to go. Use 120 or 240 on a DA to cut the can off then 320 to remove the scratches, then 320 then a red scuff, then where you burn through mist on a good self etching primer like SEM, at that point you should be ready for Base/clear or single stage.
If you burn through alot prime the whole car and start over with the paper and Da.
or just take it to Maco and let them shoot over the Can but they may tell you no....cause even Maco has standards. Good Luck!

Thanks for the reply. What do you mean by DA and burn I'm not sure what these terms mean.

[Eyger]

DA stands for Dual action sander. I don't know why people suggest this, because very very few people have the ability to use one. Meaning, a large enough air compressor and the damn tool itself.

[Transpoquick]

Originally Posted by fcjohnny

Thanks for the reply. What do you mean by DA and burn I'm not sure what these terms mean.

Yeah I'm sorry, the air was a big deal for me too, but you can get a good DA for around 250.00 (IMO if you need a tool it's worth the Mac and cheese).
Burning through is a term used for what happens when you hit bare metal while sanding off the peel or rough orange skin surface on a part or panel you painted or primed.
I wish I had pictures of the project I'm working on now...someone decided they only needed too put 1 quart of high build on a 96 D body.
You can use the old block and elbow but....the DA is god nowadays with a good brand of paper on it.
Some spots on any car have too be blocked and some spots...use the DA.
BTW you should only wet sand paint/clear prior to buffing, if you have to buff that is.