Honda and Acura Model Specific Forums

EJ8VTEC · 10-27-2009, 11:51 AM

I know we dont have very many followers in this forum but im giving it a try...

To replace the rear suspension: Bottom back seat needs to come out, then the vertical pieces & i should have access to the upper part of the shock? Is that it, or does the whole rear dash need to be removed? Anything else i need to know? I did the front already and seemed very similar to my civic...

Sorry im having a little trouble finding answers on this...

This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Honda-Tech!

D_TY3 · 10-27-2009, 12:29 PM

ej8vtec
the bottom seat does not have to come out. There is a bolt near between the side bolster and the lower seat cushion, grab your ratchet, an extension and a 10mm socket (i think). push down on the lower cushion and you should see the bolt. take that off all you have to do is carefull slide you side bolster(s) up. this would give you access to the upper portion of the shocks.

EJ8VTEC · 10-27-2009, 12:32 PM

thank you sir

aeon · 10-27-2009, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D_TY3

ej8vtec
the bottom seat does not have to come out. There is a bolt near between the side bolster and the lower seat cushion, grab your ratchet, an extension and a 10mm socket (i think). push down on the lower cushion and you should see the bolt. take that off all you have to do is carefull slide you side bolster(s) up. this would give you access to the upper portion of the shocks.

Yeah that's it and to make things easier for next time, you can do it like me and not put the bolt back in. With the seats set back in place, the bolsters hold firmly in place. I'm always adjusting my struts so I'm back there a lot.

D_TY3 · 10-27-2009, 01:41 PM

in addition, when removing the lower portion of the suspension, it is not nec. to remove the sway bar link. all you have to do is remove the bolt holding in the strut, and then remove the bolt that hold the plate, which the strut bolt threads into, and also is connected to the sway bar end link. by removing this plate it will allow you to move the sway bar/end link assembly out of the way. i just did this, and i found this was the easiest way

Mr. DB2 · 10-28-2009, 04:54 AM

I had to remove(loosen links and mounts and slide towards exhaust) the sway bar. 2 more minutes of work to remove and install.

endlesswinterco · 10-28-2009, 09:08 AM

the only problem with remvoing the sway bar from the endlinks is that the endlinks on our cars suck. they freeze up, those causing more of a problem to get off, and often need to replace them. I gone through two sets of endlinks while changing out my susp several times.

Mr. DB2 · 10-28-2009, 12:58 PM

^Maybe its your area. I buy my vehicles down south and bring back up to NC.

D_TY3 · 10-29-2009, 07:25 AM

endlesswinterco, i agree with you 100%, that is why i dont even bother removing the links

endlesswinterco · 10-29-2009, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. DB2

^Maybe its your area. I buy my vehicles down south and bring back up to NC.

it deff is. we get all four season, and a ton of salt every winter.

EJ8VTEC · 10-30-2009, 09:10 AM

A ton of bolts were pretty rusted on mine. Not to mention stripping the damn allen key stud at the top of the strut, that is always fun. Even with an impact damn thing still wouldnt come off, had to torch it. FTL. fun night

I found instead of trying to hold the strut center cylinder from turning with the allen key, just grip the strut with a set of vise grips makes it much easier!

Brice.Hayden · 10-31-2009, 12:35 AM

make me hesistant to do coils on my TSX. maybe ill just pay a guy at honda to do it for me

Mr. DB2 · 10-31-2009, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brice.Hayden

make me hesistant to do coils on my TSX. maybe ill just pay a guy at honda to do it for me

As long as your car is not rusty underneath you'll be fine. The proceedure is pretty simple. The front is just like an older honda(thank god b/c my FA5(F&R) was a bitch imo). The rear is a little more complicated with more stuff to remove,but still simple. The hardest part was taking the rear seat side bolsters out.

10-27-2009, 12:29 PM	#2
D_TY3 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: EAST COAST Posts: 141	Re: Rear Suspension ej8vtec the bottom seat does not have to come out. There is a bolt near between the side bolster and the lower seat cushion, grab your ratchet, an extension and a 10mm socket (i think). push down on the lower cushion and you should see the bolt. take that off all you have to do is carefull slide you side bolster(s) up. this would give you access to the upper portion of the shocks. __________________ 99 integra ls

10-27-2009, 12:32 PM	#3
EJ8VTEC Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: the Shore, NJ Posts: 1,969	Re: Rear Suspension thank you sir __________________ Daily Driver: 04 NBP CL9 6MT/Navi - CL9 Squad #001 Sold: 00 CGP EJ8 - Retired EJ8 Squad #121 Go Lakers!

10-27-2009, 01:41 PM	#5
D_TY3 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: EAST COAST Posts: 141	Re: Rear Suspension in addition, when removing the lower portion of the suspension, it is not nec. to remove the sway bar link. all you have to do is remove the bolt holding in the strut, and then remove the bolt that hold the plate, which the strut bolt threads into, and also is connected to the sway bar end link. by removing this plate it will allow you to move the sway bar/end link assembly out of the way. i just did this, and i found this was the easiest way __________________ 99 integra ls

10-28-2009, 04:54 AM	#6
Mr. DB2 Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Hendersonville, NC, USA Posts: 746	Re: Rear Suspension I had to remove(loosen links and mounts and slide towards exhaust) the sway bar. 2 more minutes of work to remove and install. __________________ 2004 TSX BLK/BLK 6-SPEED W/NAVI.-CL9 squad member #110 Neuspeed Race suspension Eibach(SPC) rear camber kit

10-28-2009, 09:08 AM	#7
endlesswinterco Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: MD Posts: 4,463	Re: Rear Suspension the only problem with remvoing the sway bar from the endlinks is that the endlinks on our cars suck. they freeze up, those causing more of a problem to get off, and often need to replace them. I gone through two sets of endlinks while changing out my susp several times. __________________ 06 ABP TSX CL9 Squad #7

10-28-2009, 12:58 PM	#8
Mr. DB2 Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Hendersonville, NC, USA Posts: 746	Re: Rear Suspension ^Maybe its your area. I buy my vehicles down south and bring back up to NC. __________________ 2004 TSX BLK/BLK 6-SPEED W/NAVI.-CL9 squad member #110 Neuspeed Race suspension Eibach(SPC) rear camber kit

10-29-2009, 07:25 AM	#9
D_TY3 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: EAST COAST Posts: 141	Re: Rear Suspension endlesswinterco, i agree with you 100%, that is why i dont even bother removing the links __________________ 99 integra ls

10-30-2009, 09:10 AM	#11
EJ8VTEC Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: the Shore, NJ Posts: 1,969	Re: Rear Suspension A ton of bolts were pretty rusted on mine. Not to mention stripping the damn allen key stud at the top of the strut, that is always fun. Even with an impact damn thing still wouldnt come off, had to torch it. FTL. fun night I found instead of trying to hold the strut center cylinder from turning with the allen key, just grip the strut with a set of vise grips makes it much easier! __________________ Daily Driver: 04 NBP CL9 6MT/Navi - CL9 Squad #001 Sold: 00 CGP EJ8 - Retired EJ8 Squad #121 Go Lakers!

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search