Paint reaction with Filler?

[jimbo89]

Originally Posted by Spawne32 since your gona do it that way, the old man says dont go any heavier then 400 git, you just want to sand the clear, and you dont want to break through the clear, assuming you can do that successfully, he said seal it to be safe since he doesnt know what kinda work was done, and then respray, he said dont sand all the way down because it will look horrible. He said the best sealer you can get is the clear coat, so leave the clear thats on there already intact, try like hell not to go through it when you sand it down again. So you are saying I should just "rough up" the clear? Spray the sealer, then do another base coat and clear...?

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[jimbo89]

oh wait nevermind, I see what you are saying now.. I should just sand the clear coat a little so I can paint on it and just put the base coat/ clear coat on that... Makes sense. I should use a wax remover on the car right now to take the wax off before I start sanding too right?

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by jimbo89

oh wait nevermind, I see what you are saying now.. I should just sand the clear coat a little so I can paint on it and just put the base coat/ clear coat on that... Makes sense. I should use a wax remover on the car right now to take the wax off before I start sanding too right?

sand the clear, spray the limco ps25nr sealer, then respray your base/clear, and yes you want to use a wax remover or you will get fish eye

[jimbo89]

Ok i got it now, thanks a lot. Doing it that way will save me a ton of time compared to having to sand everything back down to the filler.

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by jimbo89

Ok i got it now, thanks a lot. Doing it that way will save me a ton of time compared to having to sand everything back down to the filler.

no problem, you have any more questions when you do tackle it, just shoot me a PM

[jimbo89]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

no problem, you have any more questions when you do tackle it, just shoot me a PM

Ya for sure, thanks for all the help, I am so stoked to get back home and start on it asap. only 2 months and 1 week till graduation!

Oh I do have another question, I am planning on getting a stud welder/dent puller to do some much needed work on my POS Subaru once I am done with the Honda. The subie has been in a few accidents...

would something like this suffice for a beginner like me? or should I just get something nicer and not waste my time on the cheapest thing on the market?

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?sku=UNI-4550

[Spawne32]

depends on how big the slide hammer is, in essence all your doing is drilling small holes into the panel and then hooking onto those holes and then using the slide hammer to pull it out, if the slide hammer doesnt have enough weight behind it it wont yank the panel out.

[Spawne32]

and typically those spot welders dont have enough juice in them to actually create a good weld

[jimbo89]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

and typically those spot welders dont have enough juice in them to actually create a good weld

Oh so your saying its better to just drill the holes in the body and pull dents that way and just weld the holes, this is what we did on my Honda's rear quarter where all the bondo is. I just thought the stud welder would be a better idea, but if the studs welded on don't hold when using the slide hammer it would be useless....

[Spawne32]

ill ask around about it

[christmastree]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

and typically those spot welders dont have enough juice in them to actually create a good weld

for pulling a dent? you are WAY wrong! that is the only way to go. the screw in slide hammers are 70's technology. and if all you are doing is using the brute force from the slide hammer then you are doing it all wrong. you need to be tapping the eyebrow of the dent with a hammer. using your hammer and slide hammer to aid in each others use

[christmastree]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

not familiar with rage

its the best putty there is. its expensive but its money well spent.

and as far as the painting goes, i would personally not hit it with anything rougher than 600, i would then scotch bright it. as far as sealer goes there is no reason to seal it now. IF the putty is what caused it, it is already going to be sealed off from the new paint by the base/clear that is already on there.so all you need to do is prep the panels that you are going to paint, paint over your yellow spots and blend out from there, then clear. thats what i would do but you can do it however you want.

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by christmastree

for pulling a dent? you are WAY wrong! that is the only way to go. the screw in slide hammers are 70's technology. and if all you are doing is using the brute force from the slide hammer then you are doing it all wrong. you need to be tapping the eyebrow of the dent with a hammer. using your hammer and slide hammer to aid in each others use

lol well alot of the tools i work with are snap on tools that my dad bought in the 70s..and they still work, so i cant speak for the 200 dollar dent puller.

[christmastree]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

lol well alot of the tools i work with are snap on tools that my dad bought in the 70s..and they still work, so i cant speak for the 200 dollar dent puller.

well understand that you have to work with what you have. but seriously nothing beats a stud gun.

[Spawne32]

well i got a half an hour lesson on the stud gun today and i would advise against it, basically to sum it up the proper method is drill and hook now adays because of galvanized steel, he said if you use the stud gun your going to burn the galvacoat off the steel and cause rust. Wish i could explain it better but you really have to sit and listen to him explain it. And i did talk about the evercoat rage with him and he said its a much better product then the zgrip but you still have to use metalglaze on it.

On a side note jimbo, he said if you didnt used catalyzed primer, it definitely bled into the body filler. He said everything has to be catalyzed.

[mztykal]

You don't need metal glaze over Rage or any other filler for that matter.

You also don't need to use Limco products for sealer either. Also a stud welder is way better than drilling a hole and welding it back up.

As far as the metal rusting from using a stud welder, that where epoxy primer comes in. If you shoot it with epoxy after grinding down your stud, you'll be fine.

Your dad is too old school.

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by mztykal

You don't need metal glaze over Rage or any other filler for that matter.

You also don't need to use Limco products for sealer either. Also a stud welder is way better than drilling a hole and welding it back up.

As far as the metal rusting from using a stud welder, that where epoxy primer comes in. If you shoot it with epoxy after grinding down your stud, you'll be fine.

Your dad is too old school.

my dad also does professional paint jobs and not cheap maaco shit

[jimbo89]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

well i got a half an hour lesson on the stud gun today and i would advise against it, basically to sum it up the proper method is drill and hook now adays because of galvanized steel, he said if you use the stud gun your going to burn the galvacoat off the steel and cause rust. Wish i could explain it better but you really have to sit and listen to him explain it. And i did talk about the evercoat rage with him and he said its a much better product then the zgrip but you still have to use metalglaze on it.

On a side note jimbo, he said if you didnt used catalyzed primer, it definitely bled into the body filler. He said everything has to be catalyzed.

When you drill a whole you still have to weld it to fill it, doing the same damage as a stud welder... at least thats what I was thinking...

So is the general consensus of everyone that is giving me advice saying I can just paint over my current paint with a sealer (after proper prep), then base, then clear? Or Should I take it back down to filler and go from there with the rage, sealer, primer, base, clear?

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by jimbo89

When you drill a whole you still have to weld it to fill it, doing the same damage as a stud welder... at least thats what I was thinking...

So is the general consensus of everyone that is giving me advice saying I can just paint over my current paint with a sealer (after proper prep), then base, then clear? Or Should I take it back down to filler and go from there with the rage, sealer, primer, base, clear?

no he fills the holes with the body filler, never seen anyone weld holes that small up. you can do whatever you choose but im giving solid advice from someone whos been doing it for 35 years vs HT forum goers.

[christmastree]

Jimbo please DO NOT listen to spawne. he says that his dad is this professional, but anybody that fills any hole with putty obviously is not concerned with quality in any way. Mztykal is right in what he says. If you are smart you will listen to the things I have told you. I do this every day of my life.

[jimbo89]

Originally Posted by christmastree

Jimbo please DO NOT listen to spawne. he says that his dad is this professiona, vbut anybody that fills any hole with putty obviously is not concerned with quality in any way. Mystical is right in what he says. If you are smart you will listen to the things I have told you. I do this every day of my life.

Ok so you are pretty much saying the same thing as spawne despite the preferences on the stud welders... You are saying I first need to use a wax remover on the paint, then sand with 600 instead of 400. then just spray a base coat then a clear. no sealer...

Oh and just so everyone knows I plan on just getting one of the cheap stud welders, its 200 bucks and if it works well then sweet, if it doesn't then meh, it was only 200 bucks.

[christmastree]

Originally Posted by jimbo89

Ok so you are pretty much saying the same thing as spawne despite the preferences on the stud welders... You are saying I first need to use a wax remover on the paint, then sand with 600 instead of 400. then just spray a base coat then a clear. no sealer...

Oh and just so everyone knows I plan on just getting one of the cheap stud welders, its 200 bucks and if it works well then sweet, if it doesn't then meh, it was only 200 bucks.

Exactly. And the cheap ones I have seen have always worked well enough for what you pay

[jimbo89]

Originally Posted by christmastree

Exactly. And the cheap ones I have seen have always worked well enough for what you pay

OK cool, I still have the paint code, so I will just go get some more made when I am home, enough to do my engine bay too so when I pull my engine to build it I can spray that too.
sooo after a quick prep I should be able to respray and have the car done in about 2 or 3 days... this has made me so relieved, I was dreading having to take the paint back down to filler and do it all over...

[Spawne32]

you can say what you want, i aint gona sit here and argue with a bunch of honda tech know it alls who drive civics that they spray with rustoleum out of a can, jimbo, if you want advice on how to do it right when the time comes should you need help, you know where you can reach me. Thats all im gona say.

[christmastree]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

you can say what you want, i aint gona sit here and argue with a bunch of honda tech know it alls who drive civics that they spray with rustoleum out of a can, jimbo, if you want advice on how to do it right when the time comes should you need help, you know where you can reach me. Thats all im gona say.

As everyone can clearly see i definately paint everything out of a rustoleum can and i do not do it right... im even good enough to shoot a four-stage paint job with rustoleum.