Nichelson_Performance

my car is smoking pretty bad when you hold the throttle steady at 3k rpms or when you gun the throttle it'll puff some smoke, any ideas as to what it could be? i'm really thinking it's the turbo itself because i put new seals in it and it still smokes.

also i do want to mention that i have a blitz bov and cannot get it adjusted properly to prevent surge under 10 psi or to hold boost above 16 psi. i have it shimmed so it'll hold 20 psi. the problem is it will blow off some at 20 psi but the surging sound is still present. has anyone else had this problem with the blitz bov's? i'm thinking of switching, any reccommendations?

here's my setup

75mm(stockbore)vitara that have been used for 2 years and i'm using a ebay garbage turbo for the 3rd year in a row, everything else is quality components. any help is greatly appreciated

Adam_b16a

have you looked at your spark plugs?

Nichelson_Performance

yea i changed them about 1.5 weeks ago and they had the black soot around the insulator, which would mean it's running rich right? the ground strap looked normal. its going to be retuned in 2-3weeks using chrome gold instead of chrome pro because something with chrome pro won't function with my omni 4 bar. it makes good power but it has hiccups alot when you try to floor the throttle.

the black soot is possibly oil then? it just figured it was running rich? also could the black soot inside the exhaust cause it to smoke, i know it's flammable from when i had to do work on it

Joseph Davis

Soot is soot, it is not oil.

I generally dislike asking someone what their plugs look like. Unless you have deliberately looked at a few hundred sets then you don't know what you're looking at and describe things that don't matter. If you knew how to read a plug you wouldn't be asking for help. (no offense)

From the top, please answer:

1) What color is the smoke?
2) Does the smoke manifest within the first 1.5-2 minutes after cold startup?
3) When you put new bearings in your china turbo, was the turbine shaft heat discolored?
4) Can you get us some general pics of the setup, including oil drain? I'd like pics of the plugs, but less than 1 in 100 people can manage to take a picture in focus or of a useful resolution.

Nichelson_Performance

1. it's white at idle then turns blue when revved, i know it's not cooling system smoke
2. its more evident after 5 minutes or so, its not visible after startup
3. yes the shaft was discolored badly
4. no i don't have pics of the return line, but i have it going into the top of the pan using a 5/8" id oil line, it is a fairly sharp bend but is not kinked

i really feel the turbo is to blame since it's been ran for 3 years, 1 year of antilaging, just thought i would get some opinions from experienced people

Joseph Davis

Yeah, all that points towards the turbo.

1) White is oil dripped on a hot surface, blue is oil actually burned as in going through the combustion chamber. Your turbo is puking oil from both the hot and the cold side, bet you have oil in your charge pipe and IC and IM.
2) The exhaust/turbo/turbine takes a few minutes to get hot and start cooking the oil. If it were an internal engine problem, well, the combustion reaction is always hot.
3) Discolored metal is usually warped, turbo's junk.
4) blah

Looks like you're pointed in the right direction.

Nichelson_Performance

thanks alot man, that's some great advice, i'm actually lookin to upgrade to something good anyhow, i've started with all chinese junk 3 years ago, now this is the only thing left, maybe looking at a gt28r or something similar.

would you happen to have any reccomendations on what i could do about my blow off valve? it's the older style blitz with the single port, i can't figure out how to stop it from surging the turbo, but still be able to hold boost?

accord_raffi

Sounds like the oil issue is sorted out so onto the bov. If money isn't an issue, I would suggest a Forge Twin Piston bov. You have 3 different spring choices depending on your boost level. It's like $130 to your door, and all you need is a new coupler with a 1" inlet for the bov. I feel like Forge is floating under honda driver's radars. I have been using one and it's great. Everyone I know that has one loves them. Great quality for way less in cost.

Joseph Davis

Forge can continue to float under Honda owner's radar, and completely fall off of the map for everyone else while they are at it. That 1-1.25" inlet restricts airflow so that a sustained whoosh is created - the classic riceboy mating call all over again. It's priority should be bypassing air to avoid compressor surge, not making cool noise. Failure by design. There's a reason Garrett sells TiAL products in Garrett boxes, you know. Take a close look at the size of the TiAL BOV if you want a correctly designed baller unit.


Anyway, OP, I'm really not familiar with the older Blitz units. 95% of the cars I tune are prepped by shops that sell TiAL, or don't have any such problems. The only time I run into a BOV issue it's on DSMs, the bigger turbo units seem to love to flutter RFLs or Type-S during torque peak.

accord_raffi

I can honestly say when I was searching for a bov I was not searching for the "cool" whoosh. I just noticed that an HKS was over my budget, the TiAL 50mm was more than what I needed for my low boost, and more than enough bad experiences for the Greddy Type RS. My friends have used either the better version of the Bosch BPV ($60) that doesn't use the cheap diaphragm and Forge bpv/bov's on their 20psi Saabs without surging issues. They have told me it surges on cars with 400+hp...not sure what the cfm is for that level of power. I'm not sure what power the OP is making, but I guess he'd be better off with a tial 50mm. I'll rephrase and say that Forge makes a good product for lowered powered cars. I don't think it would be fair to say that they designed it specifically for the noise considering some of the riciest turbo cars out there have never heard of Forge.

Joseph Davis

I can't say the TiAL 50mm is more than you need for a low boost setup. The Bosch BOV's limits are exceeded at 225 whp - I know, I've run them before, 3-4 seconds worth of noise for single digit boost is telling. It's under $40 (or it was 8 years ago) at the dealer for one of the "good" brass internal ones and the 45 degree 2.5" mounting boot that fits one without looking like ***.

accord_raffi

well idk what to tell you other than the fact that my friend had his saab c900 dyno'ed at 310whp on a dynapack dyno and he is yet to surge.

Joseph Davis

Audibly, anyway.

Nichelson_Performance

i was searching evasive motorsports.com last nite and came across a SARD bov and some TurboSmart ones which are almost identical in design as the Tial, but cost way more

has anyone tried the SARD or even the new Greddy Type R