phunhaus

Can you put together a parts list with numbers or vendors?

Clipsed

iTrader: (2)

$40!...



Here is where I mounted my resevoir...





And for those of you worried about space constraints, THIS is what you have to work with...

defnu

that's pretty much what i did. it's really sturdy at the mounting point but i was just wondering if this kit would be any cleaner.

b16_madman

How in the heck is the vent tube going to remain with this clutch MC in place?

pb16b

my apologies. the vent tube will have to be removed or modified.

b16_madman

that vent sucked from day 1 though. i'll try to use a heat gun yo shrink it down, or some flex tubing of some sort. i'm pretty determined to make it all still work

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

The air never really made it over to that one on my CRX either. Its been somewhat cold the past 2 days and I dont miss it. The pedal feels great. I'm still messing around with the length of the rod on the MC trying to decide where it feels best. But it grabs very nicely. I'm happy I did the conversion. The guys at Suja seem pretty cool to. They seem like they are willing to listen to suggestions.

TallKyle

they are making me one for my DA as we speak.

woot i can't wait to get this.

b16_madman

Well defrost is a nice thing to have for the side mirrors so that's enough of a reason to attempt to keep it hooked up. Can you explain the rod length thing?

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

Sure, the MC has the threaded rod which is attached to the piston. The end of it that attaches to the pedal can be threaded farther down or farther up the rod. If you have it all the way at the end the pedal pushes the rod in further, all the way in and it doesn't push it as far. It can help you set where the pedal is when the clutch grabs. But if you just go and put it all the way at the end you will most likely over engage the clutch which can make it hard to shift. See the pic below. This one works on the same principal only the Suja set up has the MC reversed. (Dont mind that spring)

b16_madman

bravo. thought it'd be useful common knowledge. i'm just waiting on the bracket now. going to take the car to the shop today and pull the dash, repair some wiring and wait on parts from a few different places.

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

Cool, be ready for some sore hands. Mine look like they had a date with a cheese grater. This was my first time bleeding a slave cylinder, I've always had cables. I'm not sure how familiar you are but that was my biggest issue making it work right. Apparently you can't just bleed them like you do brakes.

I got my bracket in three days. I believe I ordered on tuesday, and got it friday.

speeddave

what process did you use to bleed the system?

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

First I used this method that you can find in your shop book


I still wasn't getting full engagement of the slave though. Then I found this method somewhere. I believe it was on a Saab site.
1.Connect hose to slave and submerge in fluid.
2.Loosen bleeder bolt but keep wrench in position.
3.Manually push in the piston of the slave. Fluid and/or air should come out. But, before releasing the the piston close the bleeder valve. Then release the piston. That should draw fluid down the pressure line into the slave.
4.Repeat 1-3 until there are no more bubbles.
(Of course you should monitor your reservoir while doing this)

I was able to still get some air out of the line using this method right after I had just done the other. But I wouldn't trust only using the second method if it's a new install. The MC needs to be primed and filled. I think the second method is good for getting those last couple stubborn bubbles out of the line.

I see you're selling your cable to hydro adapter. I have a feeling we might be seeing more of that. Are you planning on installing this kit or are you getting rid of it for another reason?

speeddave

i switched from cable to hydro this winter and i was planning on using the hasport peice. i really wanted to go full hydro in the first place, but i found a good deal on the hasport kit, before this came out. so i'm hoping to sell the hasport conversion and give this a shot. i havent even tried the hasport piece, but i like the simplicity/function of this setup.

i'd like to see a few more reviews until i make my decision. i'll be using the kit in a drag racing environment so i'd like to see how it works with beefy clutch's and high rpm shifts.

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

I only have a full face exedy with upgraded pressure plate ("stage 1") so I cant really speak to beefy clutches but, I have had the rex up at 8.2k with the new kit. It seems to react quickly and maintain smooth shifting. But there may be other factors involved there. Like, brand of MC and Slave, bore of MC and Slave, etc. From what I have been looking at it seems Honda always uses a 5/8 bore MC (.625 inches) I was thinking of trying a wilwood MC a size or two up. I want to see if the extra pedal effort is worth the shortened pedal travel. I just need to find out what a Honda CMC measures from stud to stud. If anyone has one out of the car I would really appreciate if you could take a quick measurement. Mine is under the dash. If they do have the same measurement I may try one out. Here's a link to the site for the MC.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...RRMC/index.asp

kim_2_da_chee

pb16b:

My brother says the kit just came in the mail, thanks for the quick delivery. However there is one set back. He said he had to pay the delivery guy $50 C.O.D.
I thought I already paid you extra for shipping to Canada?
Please advise. Thanks

4DRmafia

That sucks. I gotta have that vent tube for the heating.

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

that tubing only supplies the one top vent all the way on the left and the little window defogger on the door from what I could tell. I don't know if all CRX's had the same issue but I hardly got any air out of that vent, I'm assuming thats because its the farthest from the blower?? Thats why I wasnt too sad to see it go.

digitally_remastered

i would be up for doing this conversion. just not sure if im ready to pay 150 bucks for it.

pb16b

there shouldn't be COD, maybe duties but $50 for duties is insane! i'll call UPS and find out what happend and get that $50 refunded.

ComeOnKip

Actually, if you were going to change to a wilwood master cylinder, the best for ease of use and fitment would probably be the new 'ultra-compact' master cylinders, they come in 5/8", 3/4", 13/16", 7/8", 1" and 1 1/8", and despite the below picture, the kit also comes with a top, feed line and remote resevoir thats like 4.0oz.



Oh P.S. I stock these

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

Could you PM me with prices?

TheSauceSpot

pm me with pricing too.. or just post it up in here.

ComeOnKip

79.59 for the entire kit.