DIY: DC2 dash into EG.
12-08-2008, 01:47 AM
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DIY: DC2 dash into EG.
Someone requested me post this up on honda-tech so here it is:
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and I do not take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Aim: To replace the ugly EG interior with a nicer DC2 interior
*Note* There are a couple of different ways to wire and modify the dash to fit, this is the way i went about it. I've taken into consideration you know how to remove the dash and heater unit in your car and have them out already.
I also had to remove heaps of pics off here as there is a limit to the amount you can post up, so if you need a specific pic just ask. It sucks, but there's nothing i can do about it.
Required:
- Complete DC2 dash with the dash harness still connected to it
- DC2 steering wheel coverings
- DC2 kick panels
- DC2 Heater core
- DC2 Dash Mounts
- DC2 Underdash Fusebox (not completely neccessary, but you will be able to use all the dash functions if you use the DC2 fusebox)
- DC2 Centre console & Armrest (and foam insert underneath for better fitment)
- DC2 Centre console and armrest brackets (armrest bracket is optional)
- DC2 Black Carpet (Option)
- Various Tools
- Vinyl Paint/Dye
Steps:
I have broke this down into sections.
Wiring:
Tools:
-Multimeter
-Sewing needle
-Notebook and pen
*Note* There are differences between OBD1 and OBD2 supposedly, i used all OBD1 wiring and OBD1 fusebox for this setup (94-97 DC2 = OBD1) (My EG main harness = OBD1). Just something you should be aware of although i dont see why you wouldn't be able to make either work. Just use all the same gear off the same DC2 and you should be able to make it work by pinning the EG plugs as I describe in this DIY.
1. I used a DC2 fusebox, DC2 dash harness and the EG main harness. There are 3 plugs that connect the dash harness to the fusebox (green), the main harness (grey) and one for the rear harness (blue).
This is my completed harness:
2. The green plug went right in, but the blue and grey plugs were different in size. Now, i knew the whole assembly worked without issues with the EG dash in... So i figured if i could trace the whole DC2 and EG dash harness using my multimeter and repin the DC2 dash harness wires into the correct locations on the EG plugs. I did this by drawing each and every plug, adding the pin location and wire colours and tracing each wire with my multimeter.
To do this with a multimeter (you can pick up a cheap one like mine from supercheap for about $16) all you do is switch the multimeter to ohms on the lowest setting (unless it is an autorange multimeter).
3. Remove both the EG and DC2 dash harness' from the dash so you can easily access everything, this also allows you to take it all inside if you wanna sit in the lounge and do this. Just be sure to take note/photos of where everything goes. I labelled what each plug was for. There are plugs for:
-hazards
-demister
-radio
-cig. lighter
-dimmer
-cluster x 2
-glove box light (DC2)
-earth
-clock
I think thats all of them..
4. Place one side of the multimeter in pin 1 on either grey/blue/green plug. Taking note of the colour of this pin, find where else in the harness is a pin of the same colour and touch that pin, do you get a reading on the multimeter? If yes, you have found where pin 1 on whichever plug you have started with goes too. Write all your findings down and do this with every pin on all 3 plugs on both harness'. From there you will be able to work-out where you need to re-pin all the DC2 dash harness pins into the EG dash harness plugs. Use this Cluster pin-out diagram to help you also: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/94-97-98-01-integra-cluster-into-92-95-96-00-civic-wiring-diagrams-1053318/ This link also explains how to de-pin a plug, i use a sewing needle for it. If you need some more pics/help on this let me know.
Andy's (litterbox) guide mentions that only the blue plug needs to be swapped.. Everything seemed to be different on my setup so i went about it myself and worked out where everything goes, why dont you do this also?? This way you know it will be right and you can sit on the couch inside testing each wire with the multimeter anyway. You may learn something. If not, you can find the info on the link at the bottom of this DIY.
5. The only soldering you will need to do will be to splice the yel/blk wire from the grey plug to the yel wire on the green plug. Your turn signals/hazards wont work until you hook this one up.
Dash mounts, Steering Column Support and Dash Modifications:
Tools/Materials:
-4" angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc
-cordless drill with a couple of drill bits
-file
-some thin sheet metal
-some bolts & nuts with a small head on them (i got from bunnings)
-dremel
1. Drivers Side (dash mount):
In order for the drivers side to fit you need to remove the fusebox mount. What i did was grind it off. I then drilled out the spot welds on the EG dash mount. I installed the EG fusebox mount onto the DC2 dash mount by drilling 2 holes and using some nuts/bolts. You also need to grind out a notch to clear the steering support beam.
2. Both Sides (dash mounts):
Now you need cut the sheet metal to size, drill 2 x holes to bolt it to on the dash mount and also drill a hole for it to bolt to the original spot on the body. Pics show it better than i can explain:
3. Dash:
3a. I didn't take pics of this, but if you lift the dash up into place you will see that where the cluster goes there is a heap of plastic in the way, mark where to cut it out, pull the dash back out and cut it out. Do not cut into anything that will be visible. I used a dremel for the cutting.
3b. Drill a hole behind the clock for where the dash bolt goes. I didnt even use this mounting point, it is secure without it. Pic thanks to bananaman (if you want me to pull it down let me know):
4. Steering column support:
I mounted everything up and the cluster only slightly didnt fit. So marked up where the support was in the way, removed the dash, pulled the support beam out and then trimmed the beam (and part of the support that isnt removable from the car). Then put it all back in. A little more needed to be trimmed than in this pic, but you get the idea.
Centre Console:
1. My center console didnt look like it lined up right to begin with, but after putting in the carpet and the neccessary brackets it is actually lined up correctly as you can see in these pics. I havent placed the foam piece under the carpet but it fits up well without it. If you want it to be a more snug fitment then you can place it under there.
Foam piece:
Heres the brackets you need for perfect centre console and arm rest alignment. I mounted the arm rest one but if you want to install the screws on the side you will need to make new holes on the arm rest for them. I haven't bothered as everything is solid without them screwed in anyway, if i have issues, i will make new holes and screw them in place:
As you can see if fits up perfectly with the brackets:
If running a stripped interior it will seem as if you have about a 1-2cm gap, but thats how it sits:
Door Trims:
1. Peel back the vinyl on the door skin being very careful not to tear or cut the vinyl.
2. Install the trim back on the door and mark up roughly where to cut.
3. I used a dremel to cut the trim and had the door on and off probably about 10 times until i got it perfect (i cut quiet alot more than in this pic). I took my time, making sure not to mess it up. Also be careful not to slip and cut the door vinyl:
4. You now need to get some sort of contact adhesive. I still need to purchase some and glue the vinyl back down. There are a couple of areas where it won't be 100% perfect fitment due to the fact that the vinyl is moulded to the door trim before you cut it. You will be able to glue it down so it's barely noticeable though.
5. Door closed:
Matching Grey trims, door handles, handbrake handle to the dash:
1. For this part, i got all the pieces i needed to paint together and cleaned them up with a scotch brite and some alcohol based cleaner. I let them dry properly and applied the vinyl paint according to the can's instructions. I have black door trims already, so i wont be needing to do those.
Before:
After:
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and I do not take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Aim: To replace the ugly EG interior with a nicer DC2 interior
*Note* There are a couple of different ways to wire and modify the dash to fit, this is the way i went about it. I've taken into consideration you know how to remove the dash and heater unit in your car and have them out already.
I also had to remove heaps of pics off here as there is a limit to the amount you can post up, so if you need a specific pic just ask. It sucks, but there's nothing i can do about it.
Required:
- Complete DC2 dash with the dash harness still connected to it
- DC2 steering wheel coverings
- DC2 kick panels
- DC2 Heater core
- DC2 Dash Mounts
- DC2 Underdash Fusebox (not completely neccessary, but you will be able to use all the dash functions if you use the DC2 fusebox)
- DC2 Centre console & Armrest (and foam insert underneath for better fitment)
- DC2 Centre console and armrest brackets (armrest bracket is optional)
- DC2 Black Carpet (Option)
- Various Tools
- Vinyl Paint/Dye
Steps:
I have broke this down into sections.
Wiring:
Tools:
-Multimeter
-Sewing needle
-Notebook and pen
*Note* There are differences between OBD1 and OBD2 supposedly, i used all OBD1 wiring and OBD1 fusebox for this setup (94-97 DC2 = OBD1) (My EG main harness = OBD1). Just something you should be aware of although i dont see why you wouldn't be able to make either work. Just use all the same gear off the same DC2 and you should be able to make it work by pinning the EG plugs as I describe in this DIY.
1. I used a DC2 fusebox, DC2 dash harness and the EG main harness. There are 3 plugs that connect the dash harness to the fusebox (green), the main harness (grey) and one for the rear harness (blue).
This is my completed harness:
2. The green plug went right in, but the blue and grey plugs were different in size. Now, i knew the whole assembly worked without issues with the EG dash in... So i figured if i could trace the whole DC2 and EG dash harness using my multimeter and repin the DC2 dash harness wires into the correct locations on the EG plugs. I did this by drawing each and every plug, adding the pin location and wire colours and tracing each wire with my multimeter.
To do this with a multimeter (you can pick up a cheap one like mine from supercheap for about $16) all you do is switch the multimeter to ohms on the lowest setting (unless it is an autorange multimeter).
3. Remove both the EG and DC2 dash harness' from the dash so you can easily access everything, this also allows you to take it all inside if you wanna sit in the lounge and do this. Just be sure to take note/photos of where everything goes. I labelled what each plug was for. There are plugs for:
-hazards
-demister
-radio
-cig. lighter
-dimmer
-cluster x 2
-glove box light (DC2)
-earth
-clock
I think thats all of them..
4. Place one side of the multimeter in pin 1 on either grey/blue/green plug. Taking note of the colour of this pin, find where else in the harness is a pin of the same colour and touch that pin, do you get a reading on the multimeter? If yes, you have found where pin 1 on whichever plug you have started with goes too. Write all your findings down and do this with every pin on all 3 plugs on both harness'. From there you will be able to work-out where you need to re-pin all the DC2 dash harness pins into the EG dash harness plugs. Use this Cluster pin-out diagram to help you also: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/94-97-98-01-integra-cluster-into-92-95-96-00-civic-wiring-diagrams-1053318/ This link also explains how to de-pin a plug, i use a sewing needle for it. If you need some more pics/help on this let me know.
Andy's (litterbox) guide mentions that only the blue plug needs to be swapped.. Everything seemed to be different on my setup so i went about it myself and worked out where everything goes, why dont you do this also?? This way you know it will be right and you can sit on the couch inside testing each wire with the multimeter anyway. You may learn something. If not, you can find the info on the link at the bottom of this DIY.
5. The only soldering you will need to do will be to splice the yel/blk wire from the grey plug to the yel wire on the green plug. Your turn signals/hazards wont work until you hook this one up.
Dash mounts, Steering Column Support and Dash Modifications:
Tools/Materials:
-4" angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc
-cordless drill with a couple of drill bits
-file
-some thin sheet metal
-some bolts & nuts with a small head on them (i got from bunnings)
-dremel
1. Drivers Side (dash mount):
In order for the drivers side to fit you need to remove the fusebox mount. What i did was grind it off. I then drilled out the spot welds on the EG dash mount. I installed the EG fusebox mount onto the DC2 dash mount by drilling 2 holes and using some nuts/bolts. You also need to grind out a notch to clear the steering support beam.
2. Both Sides (dash mounts):
Now you need cut the sheet metal to size, drill 2 x holes to bolt it to on the dash mount and also drill a hole for it to bolt to the original spot on the body. Pics show it better than i can explain:
3. Dash:
3a. I didn't take pics of this, but if you lift the dash up into place you will see that where the cluster goes there is a heap of plastic in the way, mark where to cut it out, pull the dash back out and cut it out. Do not cut into anything that will be visible. I used a dremel for the cutting.
3b. Drill a hole behind the clock for where the dash bolt goes. I didnt even use this mounting point, it is secure without it. Pic thanks to bananaman (if you want me to pull it down let me know):
4. Steering column support:
I mounted everything up and the cluster only slightly didnt fit. So marked up where the support was in the way, removed the dash, pulled the support beam out and then trimmed the beam (and part of the support that isnt removable from the car). Then put it all back in. A little more needed to be trimmed than in this pic, but you get the idea.
Centre Console:
1. My center console didnt look like it lined up right to begin with, but after putting in the carpet and the neccessary brackets it is actually lined up correctly as you can see in these pics. I havent placed the foam piece under the carpet but it fits up well without it. If you want it to be a more snug fitment then you can place it under there.
Foam piece:
Heres the brackets you need for perfect centre console and arm rest alignment. I mounted the arm rest one but if you want to install the screws on the side you will need to make new holes on the arm rest for them. I haven't bothered as everything is solid without them screwed in anyway, if i have issues, i will make new holes and screw them in place:
As you can see if fits up perfectly with the brackets:
If running a stripped interior it will seem as if you have about a 1-2cm gap, but thats how it sits:
Door Trims:
1. Peel back the vinyl on the door skin being very careful not to tear or cut the vinyl.
2. Install the trim back on the door and mark up roughly where to cut.
3. I used a dremel to cut the trim and had the door on and off probably about 10 times until i got it perfect (i cut quiet alot more than in this pic). I took my time, making sure not to mess it up. Also be careful not to slip and cut the door vinyl:
4. You now need to get some sort of contact adhesive. I still need to purchase some and glue the vinyl back down. There are a couple of areas where it won't be 100% perfect fitment due to the fact that the vinyl is moulded to the door trim before you cut it. You will be able to glue it down so it's barely noticeable though.
5. Door closed:
Matching Grey trims, door handles, handbrake handle to the dash:
1. For this part, i got all the pieces i needed to paint together and cleaned them up with a scotch brite and some alcohol based cleaner. I let them dry properly and applied the vinyl paint according to the can's instructions. I have black door trims already, so i wont be needing to do those.
Before:
After:
Last edited by Paul1985; 12-14-2008 at 11:33 PM.
12-08-2008, 01:48 AM
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Other things:
Kick Panels:
1. The DC2 Kick panels fit with the dash, but not perfectly, you will need to trim the EG door sill mouldings or use DC2 ones (im trying to find a fair now to try them out). They have a clip which clips to the side of the door and you can also use the mounting point for it on the firewall:
Door sill mouldings:
You can see the EG door sill mouldings are too long. I cut them to fit and they look like they belong after vinyl painting them, I wouldnt mind trying DC2 ones. I think they would fit too:
Carpet:
1. You can dye carpet, im not going to attempt it though. I have DC2 carpet in black. It fits in almost perfectly. You will need to use kick panels if you dont want gaps where they are (can be seen in pic above). I also needed to cut a hole in the carpet for one of the seat belt mounting points. The area where i couldnt get perfect fitment is at the rear hatch area on the sides (see pics):
Hole needed as you can see:
Here's where i couldnt get perfect fitment on the sides:
Steering Wheel: I vinyl painted mine black until i can afford a spoon wheel.
Seats: I'm using black ITR Recaros.
Rear Trims: I'm running a stripped interior but you could dye/paint it all black. The seats would be the worst of it.
Other pics and complete/semi-complete swap pics:
Here's the DC2 heater core. Be sure you use this one and NOT the EG one:
DC2 Fusebox (All the fuses on both boxes go in the same location):
Working cluster:
Dash installed:
Gaps:
Other Info:
Check out litterbox's DIY here for more info, you can try wiring it up the way mentioned in that thread if you like:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-integra-dash-into-eg-1211255/
Good DIY dying door trims and carpet:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/dying-my-ej6-interior-2351002/
Kick Panels:
1. The DC2 Kick panels fit with the dash, but not perfectly, you will need to trim the EG door sill mouldings or use DC2 ones (im trying to find a fair now to try them out). They have a clip which clips to the side of the door and you can also use the mounting point for it on the firewall:
Door sill mouldings:
You can see the EG door sill mouldings are too long. I cut them to fit and they look like they belong after vinyl painting them, I wouldnt mind trying DC2 ones. I think they would fit too:
Carpet:
1. You can dye carpet, im not going to attempt it though. I have DC2 carpet in black. It fits in almost perfectly. You will need to use kick panels if you dont want gaps where they are (can be seen in pic above). I also needed to cut a hole in the carpet for one of the seat belt mounting points. The area where i couldnt get perfect fitment is at the rear hatch area on the sides (see pics):
Hole needed as you can see:
Here's where i couldnt get perfect fitment on the sides:
Steering Wheel: I vinyl painted mine black until i can afford a spoon wheel.
Seats: I'm using black ITR Recaros.
Rear Trims: I'm running a stripped interior but you could dye/paint it all black. The seats would be the worst of it.
Other pics and complete/semi-complete swap pics:
Here's the DC2 heater core. Be sure you use this one and NOT the EG one:
DC2 Fusebox (All the fuses on both boxes go in the same location):
Working cluster:
Dash installed:
Gaps:
Other Info:
Check out litterbox's DIY here for more info, you can try wiring it up the way mentioned in that thread if you like:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-integra-dash-into-eg-1211255/
Good DIY dying door trims and carpet:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/dying-my-ej6-interior-2351002/
Last edited by Paul1985; 12-08-2008 at 09:42 PM.
12-08-2008, 02:30 AM
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If you say so. I personally would find ricing the interior if you went out and painted the dash all white or something ridiculous like that. My interior is almost that of a stock DC2, would you say the DC2 interior in stock form is riced out?
I personally think the EG dash is ugly. The only way to make it slightly better IMO is if you had the black EG6 interior with the double din console etc.
Even then i think the DC2 interior is far better looking than the EG. Thats just my opinion.
I guess this is not to everyones likings, but i like it and hopefully this may help at least the people who are interested in attempting this swap.
I personally think the EG dash is ugly. The only way to make it slightly better IMO is if you had the black EG6 interior with the double din console etc.
Even then i think the DC2 interior is far better looking than the EG. Thats just my opinion.
I guess this is not to everyones likings, but i like it and hopefully this may help at least the people who are interested in attempting this swap.
12-08-2008, 02:45 AM
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If you say so. I personally would find ricing the interior if you went out and painted the dash all white or something ridiculous like that. My interior is almost that of a stock DC2, would you say the DC2 interior in stock form is riced out?
I personally think the EG dash is ugly. The only way to make it slightly better IMO is if you had the black EG6 interior with the double din console etc.
Even then i think the DC2 interior is far better looking than the EG. Thats just my opinion.
I guess this is not to everyones likings, but i like it and hopefully this may help at least the people who are interested in attempting this swap.
I personally think the EG dash is ugly. The only way to make it slightly better IMO is if you had the black EG6 interior with the double din console etc.
Even then i think the DC2 interior is far better looking than the EG. Thats just my opinion.
I guess this is not to everyones likings, but i like it and hopefully this may help at least the people who are interested in attempting this swap.
P.s nice gap on the side of it lmao . or is it A/C venting ? lol
12-08-2008, 02:59 AM
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do you have a DC2 ? NO it's a eg why waist money on a stupid pointless thang ? if you think eg's are ugly why in the hell you got one ? why ? why? why ? go get a dc2 if you think eg's are ugly lol pointless thread.
P.s nice gap on the side of it lmao . or is it A/C venting ? lol
P.s nice gap on the side of it lmao . or is it A/C venting ? lol
The gaps are the downside to this swap, but even with them i personally am happy with the swap. It doesnt look that bad to look at in person i dont think, others would beg to differ which is totally understandable. I do not have A/C and i dont know what you mean by this anyway, refrigerant wont vent anywhere even if there are gaps lol. Possibly air could leak out if it werent a snug fit on the vents, no refrigerant will leak out anywhere lol.
I guess my CTR rims would be pointless as i dont own a EK9, my 5-lug is pointless as i dont own a ITR, my K24A is pointless as i dont own a TSX. I enjoy modding my car and i'll do it the way i like it.
If others find this a pointless thread and want me to remove it i'd be happy to.
12-08-2008, 05:08 AM
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I love my EG, i never said i hate EG's, if that were the case i wouldn't have one. I said the EG dash is ugly and i prefer the DC2 dash. Hence why i swapped it. Why are you even posting if you hate it and find this pointless? Why waste your time. I dont see it being pointless, you do so look in another thread.
The gaps are the downside to this swap, but even with them i personally am happy with the swap. It doesnt look that bad to look at in person i dont think, others would beg to differ which is totally understandable. I do not have A/C and i dont know what you mean by this anyway, refrigerant wont vent anywhere even if there are gaps lol. Possibly air could leak out if it werent a snug fit on the vents, no refrigerant will leak out anywhere lol.
I guess my CTR rims would be pointless as i dont own a EK9, my 5-lug is pointless as i dont own a ITR, my K24A is pointless as i dont own a TSX. I enjoy modding my car and i'll do it the way i like it.
If others find this a pointless thread and want me to remove it i'd be happy to.
The gaps are the downside to this swap, but even with them i personally am happy with the swap. It doesnt look that bad to look at in person i dont think, others would beg to differ which is totally understandable. I do not have A/C and i dont know what you mean by this anyway, refrigerant wont vent anywhere even if there are gaps lol. Possibly air could leak out if it werent a snug fit on the vents, no refrigerant will leak out anywhere lol.
I guess my CTR rims would be pointless as i dont own a EK9, my 5-lug is pointless as i dont own a ITR, my K24A is pointless as i dont own a TSX. I enjoy modding my car and i'll do it the way i like it.
If others find this a pointless thread and want me to remove it i'd be happy to.
I appreciate you making this thread since I was the one that asked for it. I have a 95 hatch, k20a2 swap, Turbo'd, and now im looking to do the Integra dash swap. SO I guess I muse be a ricer too. Yey for me being a ricer.
Anyway......Do you know what you would need to do if your using a OBD2 cluster? I got a JDM ITR cluster for the dash and my dash and car are OBD1. Can I just repin the plugs?
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12-08-2008, 06:19 AM
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do you have a DC2 ? NO it's a eg why waist money on a stupid pointless thang ? if you think eg's are ugly why in the hell you got one ? why ? why? why ? go get a dc2 if you think eg's are ugly lol pointless thread.
P.s nice gap on the side of it lmao . or is it A/C venting ? lol
P.s nice gap on the side of it lmao . or is it A/C venting ? lol
12-08-2008, 07:59 AM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Good write up, short and simple. I gotta take my dc2 dash out, so I can get the dc2 heater core up in thier cause the eg won't allow it to go all the way back.
P.S can you get the gas light to work on the cluster?
Also you got the door light to work on the cluster..?!?..
P.S can you get the gas light to work on the cluster?
Also you got the door light to work on the cluster..?!?..
12-08-2008, 08:21 AM
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sweet diy man, you answered a lot of questions i had in doing this. i think it looks great and it should be done, the eg int. is butt! and i have a brown one so i've got double butt!! i plan on changing soon so again thanks!
anybody who would bash this thread would have to have a sohc and not enough mommy money to step it up.. don't bash it's not cool!
anybody who would bash this thread would have to have a sohc and not enough mommy money to step it up.. don't bash it's not cool!
12-08-2008, 06:40 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll get some more pics and info up in the next day or so.
The door cards are Black JDM EG6 cards i have, so hesitant to cut them lol.
I vinyl painted the grey EG:
-steering wheel (till i can afford a spoon one)
-handbrake boot/cover
-door handles
-door cups (with power window switches)
-trimmed and painted the EG door sill moulding
-EG door seals
I dont know how well this stuff will hold up so i will try source OEM black components over time to replace them. I chipped the door handle trying to put it back together already.
The door cards are Black JDM EG6 cards i have, so hesitant to cut them lol.
I vinyl painted the grey EG:
-steering wheel (till i can afford a spoon one)
-handbrake boot/cover
-door handles
-door cups (with power window switches)
-trimmed and painted the EG door sill moulding
-EG door seals
I dont know how well this stuff will hold up so i will try source OEM black components over time to replace them. I chipped the door handle trying to put it back together already.
12-08-2008, 06:42 PM
#15
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Yes, the door and boot release lights work. Does your EG come with these options before the swap??
You can use an OBD2 dash and cluster, just re-pin as i did and use BlueIntegraBoys cluster pinout as assistance. All you need to figure it out is time, a multimeter, notepad and pen. It took me forever to check each wire but it was worth it in the end. No cut/spliced wires and everything works. All i had to do was splice 1 wire.
You can use an OBD2 dash and cluster, just re-pin as i did and use BlueIntegraBoys cluster pinout as assistance. All you need to figure it out is time, a multimeter, notepad and pen. It took me forever to check each wire but it was worth it in the end. No cut/spliced wires and everything works. All i had to do was splice 1 wire.
12-08-2008, 10:15 PM
#18
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I updated with more pics over two posts.
I think i have included just about everything i went through with the swap thus far, if anyone can think of something i havent included or has some info to add to the inital posts let me know. I still have to mod my door trims so ill update the initial posts as i complete this process with more info and pics.
Also, someone asked if i got my low fuel light to work. I am unsure yet as my car hasnt run. I havent been in it enough to witness the light. When does the light come on?? I have under 10 litres of fuel in my car but am unsure if the light only comes on in certain time frames... It seemed to on my old EG, seemed to come up every couple of mins when low.
I think i have included just about everything i went through with the swap thus far, if anyone can think of something i havent included or has some info to add to the inital posts let me know. I still have to mod my door trims so ill update the initial posts as i complete this process with more info and pics.
Also, someone asked if i got my low fuel light to work. I am unsure yet as my car hasnt run. I havent been in it enough to witness the light. When does the light come on?? I have under 10 litres of fuel in my car but am unsure if the light only comes on in certain time frames... It seemed to on my old EG, seemed to come up every couple of mins when low.
12-09-2008, 05:02 AM
#19
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Nice. Im doing this dash swap myself now. If you dont mind Paul I would like to link yours with mine when I am done. I am going to be using the civic underdash harness so it would be nice to show everyone both ways of doing it. Let me know if thats kool with you. I am taking step by step pictures so hopefully with mine and Paul's write-up all questions will be answered!! 
Last edited by Tooch; 12-09-2008 at 07:23 AM.
12-09-2008, 09:00 AM
#20
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I updated with more pics over two posts.
I think i have included just about everything i went through with the swap thus far, if anyone can think of something i havent included or has some info to add to the inital posts let me know. I still have to mod my door trims so ill update the initial posts as i complete this process with more info and pics.
Also, someone asked if i got my low fuel light to work. I am unsure yet as my car hasnt run. I havent been in it enough to witness the light. When does the light come on?? I have under 10 litres of fuel in my car but am unsure if the light only comes on in certain time frames... It seemed to on my old EG, seemed to come up every couple of mins when low.
I think i have included just about everything i went through with the swap thus far, if anyone can think of something i havent included or has some info to add to the inital posts let me know. I still have to mod my door trims so ill update the initial posts as i complete this process with more info and pics.
Also, someone asked if i got my low fuel light to work. I am unsure yet as my car hasnt run. I havent been in it enough to witness the light. When does the light come on?? I have under 10 litres of fuel in my car but am unsure if the light only comes on in certain time frames... It seemed to on my old EG, seemed to come up every couple of mins when low.
Also my door light and rear defrost I cant get to work either, but I could care less, I'm more interested in the gas light.
12-09-2008, 09:07 AM
#21
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It may be caused by the fuel pump side. I replaced my whole gas tank and another used fuel pump assembly from an integra and it made my gas light start working. this was on a dc2 though. not sure if your civic has the same setup or not to properly make it work. u may need a dc2 assembly, not the actual pump but the float reader and all that good stuff.
12-09-2008, 09:09 AM
#22
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It may be caused by the fuel pump side. I replaced my whole gas tank and another used fuel pump assembly from an integra and it made my gas light start working. this was on a dc2 though. not sure if your civic has the same setup or not to properly make it work. u may need a dc2 assembly, not the actual pump but the float reader and all that good stuff.
