AWOC

Well, it all started with this one day at work. I took the top part off and decided to smooth the and fill fill weld the bumps and grooves of the awesomely designed H22 manifold



this is a pic of everything smoothed out after welding grinding and JB welding.


after that i opened the TB opening to 70mm



Then I fill welded the back of the lower half. This was done because the fact that no.1 and no.4 intake runner do a 15 degree bend into the manifold, unlike the middle two runners which are a straight shot in. To get the runners to be the same as close as i could, I got all the way down to the bend of no.1 and no.4 intake runners and eliminated the bend. Unlike other people that I have seen porting these manifolds, the bottom on mine was smoothed out because the bumps or runner separation lines actually cross in the flow of the no.1 and no.4 intake runners. You'll know what i mean when you look down the intake manifold and see the angle that 1 and 4 has over the straight runners of 2 and 3. With this said, I think that my manifold will outperform some earlier ported versions and maybe even the Euro-R! Now I'm rocking my runners down to 7 INCHES .


The first bolt hole was also fill welded so I could smooth the inside out, allowing no flow disturbances for no.4 cylinder. It seemed to me that right after the throttle body as the air expanded the bump of the bolt hole by no.4 runner would disturb that flow.




Modified by AWOC at 11:03 AM 11/16/2008

AWOC

Here's a shot of the inside. I love that shape!!! Oh yeah get ready to rotate your head


Here's a little BLING. I glass blasted the outside for a nice new finish look and I polished the top flat part where the sicker was then I stamped a little message (SKANK2).




Modified by AWOC at 11:18 AM 11/16/2008

teefunk01

good stuff man saw it on h22squad

Acidcrakker

I am so jealous of your tools. Im doing something similar, but with rotary tools.

Giant_Bean

before and after dyno?

AWOC

The car is apart right now. It is getting painted then going in for an H-B upgrade. I don't know when i'll have the chance to dyno the car. I IM'ed NAH2B to see if he wanted to dyno it against his setup, but no response. If a reputable member in here wants to dyno it with their setup I wouldn't mind. I'd even help with dyno costs if necessary.

iMPoRT GeeK

Good work but just wondering, for all that work you did, wouldn't it be easier to buy the REAL SKUNK2 manifold and be done with it??? I mean which intake manifold flows better? the one you eye balled OR the real SKUNK2 Manifold??? and how much HP gain from the one you made and the real SKUNK2 manifold? and with out the supporting mods you wouldn't gain much... ?

AWOC

well as you can SEE stated right above you I don't know which one flows better this or the skunk yet. I'm a real big DIY kind of person. I take pride in things that I can make myself and be different front others. So... instead of just buying the first manifold that is out there, I study the stock parts to learn from them and then make an educated decision from the Mech.-Eng classes that I've taken so far on how to improve on them. In this case I personally wanted to improve no.1 and no.4 runner flow. This project is simply sharing my ideas of the problems that I think the oem manifold has. I posted this thread so we can all learn how far the oem manifold can be pushed and how a cheap mod like this compares to other manifolds. As far as SKUNK2 goes...just because it says skunk2 on it it doesn't mean that it is the best thing in the world and everyone should have one. Personally i think the skunk2 manifold is f**king crap and i would never run one. They simply put something on the market that cant even outperform the Euro-r. A lot of people here have dyno sheets that shows the skunk2 lacking in top end power. Many people here have even ported their oem manifolds to outflow the SKUNK2.

So before you state that my manifold is "EYE BALLED" you better look at the pics and see that I have the equipment and education to where eye balling is not necessary. So why don't you seat back and relax and maybe you can learn a thing or two. This is a learning curve for most of us and we can only learn by doing it

HdeucedeuceA

I assume that you haven't seen the OEM vs Euro R vs Skunk2 dyno compairison. The Euro R made more midrange than the OEM and Skunk2. The Skunk2 made more top end than the OEM and Euro R.

Not that I'm a big fan of the Skunk2 but, to say it's crap is being ignorant. It makes power, just high in the RPM's. It all depends on your build to decide which is best.

But, nice to see some DIY

Rob97'SH

I'm wondering if this would be useful for those of us that are boosting. Since pressure is being produced rather then suctions. Please let us know if this produces any increase in tq and hp.

CRAZY-EG9

Any updates????

fatboy1185

nice work,i'm in the process of doing this, but i have to use a little dremel ugh

THC07

I think this is obvious. His DIY will flow better then skunk IM. That Plenum is much larger then that of the S2.

Nice DIY

0LogicMotorsports.com

iTrader: (3)

we have done this setup for years. it works great. dont forget to open up the sandwich plate, but be careful because it gets very thin and can crack so handle with care. as you increase your mods with headwork, larger displacement, cams, headers you will notice exponential gains! as you go bigger we have noticed solid gains with stacking the sandwich plates. on one of our race motors we had 3 plates on it and it screamed! GL with your setup. let me know if you need some assistance.

meanshyguy

I was wondering how much would you charge to do this to my IM?

Televator

iTrader: (1)

Very interesting DIY mod. +1 for originality and +1 for a good idea on the runners. Another note to add in the Honda Book o' Science. While the S2 actually does produce power now, it's a little late in the game and variations on OEM manifolds have been shown to to still be as effective, if not more effective, than the current S2 mani depending on the setup. They should have studied the Euro R, improve on it a little, make it fit USDM H22s, and just sell that. They'd sell like crazy. In the mean time, I still remain a fan of the OEM/custom mani. I can never forget that custom RLZ manifold on the Birdman's motor.

flatblack-h22

x2

AWOC

It took a long time so I would charge way too much. You can take you some dremel tools and go about it yourself. It's more fun when you do it yourself

92civlude

This would be SICK with that new DH Racing top mount intake!!!!

DSRxCandyh2bEG

iTrader: (4)

It isnt that fun with dremel tools. haha. I used to work at a shop and we did the same thing with rotary tools and a CNC machine. We didnt go far down as you did though. I just knifed the bottum part of the manifolds runners. Your manifold looks like it took a really long time... Cant wait to see dyno numbers!

ESP.net

I can't see this not making more power then stock mani thumbs up!

sauceja

Would be curious how much you would charge to take the top piece and hone it out to 68/70mm and cut out the bottom half.

No porting and stuff inside just cut the dividers out???

mattsnooz

could do this for other people if it proves effective. Could make some money on the side heh heh

sauceja

So I started my journey with this with basic tools (big *** compressor that hasn't shut off in 2 hours haha) I love die grinders and a 50 pack of cutoff wheels. I cut the bottom of the top half, the plate with Iab guts taken out and on the bottom I am only gonna cut out the little pieces since they are divided pretty nice between cyl runners.

Won't be as nice as yours but since hours are slow and checks are shorter and I get guaranteed 40 hours a week to sit at home then I figured might as well venture onto the DIY a little more.

After cutting the dremel and some grinding stones and flapper wheels will be coming out.

Looks good and if you get a dyno comparison of this post it up. Definately interested.

MassScene

Im actually the owner of the manifold and it will be up and running very soon !