FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

I figure it's been a while since the last detailed DIY for brake upgrades with pictures, DanGSR is the original guy whose DIY helped me but his pics no longer work and his post isn't quite organized......so....

DIY - Integra Type R front brakes on a non-Type R Integra

Parts & Fluids
[li]+'98 spec ITR calipers ( I've heard the '96 spec aren't the same, )[/list][li]ITR/NSx/Legend GS brake pads[/list][li] Fastbrakes.com milled ITR brackets for non-ITR use[/list]http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...=1171
[li]'94-'96 Prelude Vtec 11" 4x114 rotors, redrilled to 4x100. You can get them from either BrakeExpert here on Honda-tech ( https://honda-tech.com/zero...00972 ), or fastbrakes.com or just buy your own rotors and have them drilled.
[li]4 Washers for the brake lines.[/list][li]2 bottles of brake fluid.....hey i'm messy and it's better to have too much than too little. If you have to bleed your whole system, you may want 3.[/list][li]Caliper grease for the shims and caliper pins[/list][li]PB Catalyst or some form of anti-rust/seize spray[/list]

Preperations before we start
[ul]1. If you'd like to save yourself $120 and not buy the Fastbrakes.com pre-milled caliper brackets, then keep in mind that approximately 3mm has to be shaved off the caliper bracket, otherwise the rotor will just grind against the bracket. There are a couple of ways to get this done.

[li]1a. If you have access to a mill where you can do this PRECISELY, then the area that mates to the knuckle is what you want to shave off. This is the best method ( and the method that Fastbrakes uses ) because It keeps the rotor centered. DO NOT ANGLE GRIND. You will end up with uneven pad wear and brake vibration. An example of how far mine was milled.




[li]1b. If all you have is an angle grinder, grind off approx 2mm of the entire inside of the bracket until it fits. This will keep plane of travel the same but the rotor will be uncentered between the two pads.

[li]2. Grease up the shims (back of the pads), pad retainers ( in the picture ) and the caliper pins ( the metal part covered by the rubber boot ). When you pull the pins out to grease them and put them back in, gently compress the pins all the way down, hold it and gently pinch and pull on the rubber boot so you get rid of the excess grease and air that can otherwise keep your pins from moving freely.




[li]3. Painting. If you paint I highly recommend G2 caliper paint. You get far less of it and you pay about double the price of the Dupli-color stuff but the quality is far better. Dupli-color just WANTS to come off, G2 seems very flake resistant.[/list]

[li]-3. <FONT SIZE="2">Off with his head..er...wheel! </FONT> Getting started!


[ul][li]A. Jack up the car on both sides in the front, pretend the pic is your dinky stock brakes and zip off the wheels ( This is the Legend GS caliper kit on ). Once they're off, spray the rotor screws with PB Catalyst and allow that to work in while you take off the caliper.




[li]B. To take off the caliper, just undo the two 17mm bolts between it and the knuckle but leave it bolted up with just one turn left so they don't dangle on the brake line:





[li]C. On the hat of the rotor you'll see 2 screws. Use the Impact screwdriver to hammer out the 2 screws. If you try to use a regular screwdriver, you will strip these screws. Easily. If they still don't come out, try more PB catalyst and lightly hammer on the screws directly to break the rust. Unbolt the caliper and remove the rotor. I like to either put the caliper on a bucket or balance it on the dust shield so I don't have brake fluid dripping.

[li]D. Spray the Dust shield screws (3) with the Pb catalyst and use a screwdriver and a mallet to give them a light bang. Use the Vice grips to free them up. Then use a dremel to cut the damn thing out. If you skip this step, you will have annoying metal swishing noise.



[li]E. Mount up the new hotness:



Start with the rotor first, of course. Since there are no rotor screws, secure the rotor in place with your lug nuts. Put the bracket on next with the 2 17mm bolts and put in the brake pads. Slide the caliper over the pads and secure it with the 2 14mm bolts, to the caliper bracket. Once everything is secure, at this point i like to swap over the brake fluid line. Remember to replace the washers! Keep a damp towel handy if you've painted your calipers, just in case you drip some on them.[/list]
[li]-4. Attention store customers.....*********.....that is all. Finishing Up.

[li]A. Once you finish both sides, you may want to bleed the brakes. From what I've heard, the car should be on if you have ABS.
[ul][li]
For + '98 the process is Front left, Front right, rear right, rear left.
[li]For '94-'97 the process is RR, FL, RL, FR[/list]
[li]B. Once the fronts are done, put the wheels on and turn the car on while the car is still raised. Put it in gear and get out to listen for any grinding. If everything is solid, torque everything down with the specs below, drop your car and go beat on the brakes to break them in!!!

Final product:



[li]Torque Specs
- 14mm bolts between calipers & brackets: 36 ft/lb
- 17mm bolts between brackets & knuckle: 41 ft/lb
- 14mm brake line bolt: 25 ft/lb
- 19mm Lug nuts: 80 ft/lbs

[li]Special Thanks
Dogginator, BrakeExpert and Brian from Fastbrakes.com


[li]Rant
If you like this DIY, Save it by going to File;Save page as;Save type: webpage complete. I do this for every single DIY i've ever liked that I've come across because you never know when pics will get taken down or when websites will disappear or if you forget where you saw what great DIY from. I have something over 200 pages saved just like that.


Modified by FuNkDrSpOt at 7:39 PM 10/19/2008

DC4R27

awesome. how much did all this run you?

vietnamezerice

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC4R27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome. how much did all this run you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2

AlphaQup

GREAT WRITEUP

Berry nice my friend. I'll have to get to this one day, when I'm not so busy with the wife n kids.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC4R27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome. how much did all this run you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Calipers were about $180 w/o core charges ( i retured my GSR calipers so we'll see what happens. : l )
Fastbrakes brackets were $140 shipped
G2 caliper paint was $40 shipped
'Lude Vtec rotors were $100 shipped via BrakeExpert ( here on Honda-tech )
Pads were $70

About $560 overall. Worth every penny imo if I can shave 40-50 ft off of my 60-0 skidpad. Probably a little more for me since I have 205 width tires. Expect to spend about an extra $100 on supplies if you don't have the tools.

Modified by FuNkDrSpOt at 12:06 AM 10/17/2008


Modified by FuNkDrSpOt at 12:07 AM 10/17/2008

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Good write up..

Added to the faq..

vietnamezerice

those are prices for those parts brand new?

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnamezerice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those are prices for those parts brand new?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I got the calipers from rockauto.com but i'd strongly encourage you to get them from a local parts store cause if you get them from Rockauto, you have to ship them back to get your core deposit back, which eats away at the money you 'save' by going with them over a local store. I will say though that Rockauto has top notch customer service though.

Everything i used is all-new.

vietnamezerice

would napa have those calipers?

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnamezerice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would napa have those calipers?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't see why not. I've 'heard' that the Accord wagon, ITR +98 and some others use the same caliper but I just ordered 2000 ITR calipers.

vietnamezerice

hmm... I'm gonna have to give them a call tomorrow

vietnamezerice

do you have any pics of the wheels installed after the upgrade? how does the caliper clear the wheel? pretty good?

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnamezerice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have any pics of the wheels installed after the upgrade? how does the caliper clear the wheel? pretty good?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Legend GS caliper clears my wheel so this one isn't an issue. The main issue is the clearance between the bracket and the rotor. I was having some rubbing issues with this new setup but i realized i forgot to take off my dust shield and one of my pad retainers was crooked. I'll get a pic in a sec.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnamezerice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have any pics of the wheels installed after the upgrade? how does the caliper clear the wheel? pretty good?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My garage is tiny and it's barely big enough to fit my car alone, so i can't get any good pics tonight but I'll try to update it tomorrow. This DIY took me about +2 hrs to write so I'm going to go enjoy some TF2 before bed.

vietnamezerice

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My garage is tiny and it's barely big enough to fit my car alone, so i can't get any good pics tonight but I'll try to update it tomorrow. This DIY took me about +2 hrs to write so I'm going to go enjoy some TF2 before bed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no problem man... btw what's TF2?

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

Team Fortress 2.

vietnamezerice

haha do what you gotta do

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Good writeup.

racebum

it can be done for around $200 if you save pennies. i bought two 93 legend calipers from rockauto for $100 with no core. just a lucky closeout sale. the single piston legend are the same 23t braket and caliper as ITR. prelude rotors are $60 shipped on ebay. all that's left is pads. i paid $90 for a pair of axxis ultimates, the ITR front pad and standard teg rear par.

spending $500 is nuts, you can buy the wilwood kit for that much.

good write up though

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idrivesideways &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it can be done for around $200 if you save pennies. i bought two 93 legend calipers from rockauto for $100 with no core. just a lucky closeout sale. the single piston legend are the same 23t braket and caliper as ITR. prelude rotors are $60 shipped on ebay. all that's left is pads. i paid $90 for a pair of axxis ultimates, the ITR front pad and standard teg rear par.

spending $500 is nuts, you can buy the wilwood kit for that much.

good write up though </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know a single thing about wilwood since I haven't had the opportunity to track my car but i do know Honda OEM quality so I'll stick with that. What i was able to get though was that the wilwood kits are $725 at the minimum AND require a 16" wheel.

I don't buy too much stuff on ebay cause there are too many knockoffs and scammers so i wouldn't count those prices, cause otherwise I could have gotten everything i listed for a lot cheaper.

I coulda knocked off $180 if i had access to a mill and i didn't paint the calipers. +

racebum

wilwood is on par with alcon and brembo. very popular caliper on the nascar circuit. their own outlet mall has them for $550. the 16" wheel minimum is true. it all comes down to fade resistance really. i have the same setup you do and it's a big step up. if you don't have any fade issues with this setup it's good to go. one benefit of this upgrade is that it uses rubber seals. the wilwoods do not. the reason they don't is because they are completely worthless on track days. the higher temp track oriented pads will vaporize the rubber booties. i think this ITR style upgrade is great for most people since it's easy to install and cheap to maintain. the wilwood rotors for example cost $250 a pair to replace ! i haven't tracked these yet but i am sure they are good enough for autocross. i'm not sure about lap days though, this spring i will find out. i just don't want to kill the boots with really high temp pads. on the street i usually run hawk hps or axxis ultimates. what pad did you go with anyhoo funk?

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

I went with Hawk HPS i think. I forget.

vietnamezerice

i drivesideways, post up your DIY

racebum

LOL give me a few days, i'm knee deep in car projects. i could probably do one with the angle grinder and a caliper to show people how you can grind at home and check for straightness. same with how to drill your own rotors. you just use a large impact socket in the hub on your old rotor, a new one, line it up real well. get a black sharpie, color in the holes where you want to drill them. get a punch, smack a dimple in the middle and drill with the right size bit. all there is to it.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idrivesideways &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL give me a few days, i'm knee deep in car projects. i could probably do one with the angle grinder and a caliper to show people how you can grind at home and check for straightness. same with how to drill your own rotors. you just use a large impact socket in the hub on your old rotor, a new one, line it up real well. get a black sharpie, color in the holes where you want to drill them. get a punch, smack a dimple in the middle and drill with the right size bit. all there is to it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

In all honesty, i think i had proficient enough angle grinder skills to do it, but i figured if i EVER needed to go back to stock or sell these or if i upgrade my hubs to ITR status, i might want to have a stock pair of brackets.