Meatwad1355

Hi, I remember a while back seeing a thread in the FAQ section of this forum on how to convert a 91 civic w/out power windows, to power windows and Its not their anymore...

Anyone know where it went or how to do this or a similair page on the same thing?

BILLETGRIP

i copied and pasted this into my documents awhile back


How 2 put Power Windows in your CRX

Parts needed:

(2) 88-91 Civic EX/LX power window actuators -- $50-100 bucks (mine were $70)
(4) 4' lengths of wire
(2) 2' length of wire
(2) Center momentary window switch -- $14 from Auto-zone
(1) 30 Amp in-line fuse holder w/ fuse -- $2 from Wal-Mart

I went to the junk yard and removed the power window assemblies out of a 91 LX. $70 for them. Total up the rest of the parts
and I may have spent $110 total on the conversion.


DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME

1: Remove door trim panel

2: Cut away the plastic liner, afterwards you may want to replace this.

3: Starting with drivers side remove the window. There is 1.5' hole at the lower front of the door. Crank the window down
until you can see the 10mm bolt through the hole. Remove the front and rear bolts at this time.

5: To remove the manual window actuator there are (4)10 mm bolts around where the crank. Plus 2 more 10mm bolts, back by the
where the arm-rest was on the door panel. Remove all of these bolts and let the assembly collapse down onto itself, slide it
out the large hole towards the back of the door.

5: Now laying both the manual and power assemblies side-by-side you will notice some differences in them. The first being
that the tracks are different lengths. Also the power actuator has a different set of mounting points than the manual one.

6: Since the tracks are different they will need to be swapped over. Just take a drill and go to work on those dents that
keep the wheel from sliding out of the track. A 1/4" drill bit works well to drill out the "bump-stops". Swap the tracks over
from your CRX onto the power assemblies. Make sure you put the lower track on right side up.

** Note: The Window "tab" up and at the rear of the door.


While you have all the **** out of the door, it would be beneficial to grease all the rails. This will keep the window
operation nice and smooth. When I removed the manual assembly from my CRX I found out why the drivers window kept coming out
of track. It was due to the fact the the tracks and been with out grease for so long that the little rollers had begun to
degrade.

7: Slide the whole mess into the door. And bolts it up as shown in the picture. The motor will be facing relatively down.

8: Side the glass back in door and hook it up. It may be best to use a 12V power source to get the lower tack into he same
position as when you removed the window. Make sure you get to window in the middle of the rubber vertical tracks, this is
kind of tricky with just one person. An extra set of hands helps with this part.


9: Connect and run 2 wires through the door. I Routed the wires through the factory wiring sheath in the door jam. Then I
pulled out the grommet, cut a notch in it, and ran the wires on in. Black tape applied, nice and clean looking. To get a bit
more working room you may want to remove that pin that prevents the door from swinging to far out. Once you get wire through
the grommet push as much as you can in, then snake your hand up behind the dash and grab a hold of the wire. I then ran the
wire along the factory harness, until I got over to the center console. Soldering is of course recommended.

** Note: on the passenger' side removing the glove box is about the only way you'll be able to get your paw around the
wire. **

** On the drivers side power actuator it will have 4 wires, the passenger side has 2. Ignore the smaller black and blue
wires on the drivers side. The reason for this, is that the drivers side has an Auto-down /up function. These wires go to
the sensor in the actuator that controls this function. **

10: Put door panels back on

11: Repeat steps 1-10 from the passenger side.

12: Remove the center console

13: Now comes the wiring. For my windows I took a tip from my dad and used a 12V continuous source, that way I can roll the
windows up/down with out the key. Nice if it starts to raining or something. Anyways, I know of an easy way of getting power
around the console area. Under the drives dash just right of the fuse box these is a large (5) wire connector. It has (2)
Larger wires and (3) smaller wires. One of the 2 larger wires is WHT/YEL and one is WHT/BLU. The WHT/YEL is hot at all times,
the WHT/BLU is hot when the key is in the ON position. This is part the ignition circuit.

You can tap into there however you wish. They way I did was to take a blade connector crimped on my power wire and shoved it
into the back of the large connector previously mentioned. I taped the wired to the factory loom. Now I have my power wire.
I also took and added an inline blade-style fuse just to be safe. I studied the wiring diagrams, but couldn't find the
fuse/circuit. So I looked at what the power sunroof uses for a fuse(30A).

Now I need a ground wire, easy enough. On the metal mounting bracket for the radio/air assembly there is a bolt...Just
connect a ring terminal with a wire to that and you're set.


14: The switch: You can use any type you want. For my switch I opted to use a GM replacement window switch. It was $14 from
Auto zone, I got shafted and got stuck with the chrome switch. I wanted the black one but couldn't get a hold of one. I
tired to spray paint it black, but the damn things paint rubs off. The switch assembly has 2 switches in one housing. On
mine the switch has 6 terminals PWR/GND. left +/- and right +/- ... It should be wired like this ...

15: You can mount it anywhere you please. I personally put mine in the center console, right in front of the E-brake. It's
mounted vertically right behind the shifter. It is comfortably located in reach of both the driver and passenger.

Enjoy the power amenities that the rest of the world could get stock in there CRX's and that the US got shafted from.