Where did I f#@$k up the timing belt?
06-18-2008, 04:37 PM
#27
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Re: (tortis)
yes, I'm gonna go out and test the wires after dinner....
Unless you can put the distributer cap back on wrong, there isnt anything else I did except for the timing belt
Unless you can put the distributer cap back on wrong, there isnt anything else I did except for the timing belt
06-18-2008, 04:50 PM
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Re: (mattbatson)
you said you made double sure it was tdc, before installing the belt.. must be something simple mkaing it run like it is.
it runs, but like it has a bad plug, right?
did you turn it over with the plug wires off, like, trying to start it?
it runs, but like it has a bad plug, right?
did you turn it over with the plug wires off, like, trying to start it?
06-18-2008, 06:26 PM
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Re: (tortis)
it does run like it could be a bad plug wire. I had an old pickup that had a plug wire go bad, and it ran just like this.
however, I have to think this is probably not the problem
Odds are it is the timing belt. It also runs in a way that would indicate this...
I ended up being too tired to work on it tonight, so I'll check the timing and plug wires tomorrow.
thanks for the help
however, I have to think this is probably not the problem
Odds are it is the timing belt. It also runs in a way that would indicate this...
I ended up being too tired to work on it tonight, so I'll check the timing and plug wires tomorrow.
thanks for the help
06-18-2008, 08:58 PM
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Re: (mattbatson)
Now it sound like we have eliminated the timing belt issue.
Lets look at some other things:
1.) Spark Plug Gaps... Make sure that each spark plug is properly gapped.
2.) Make sure that each spark plug wire is connected ALL THE WAY... PUSH DOWN HARD on each spark plug wire.. on both side... the spark plug side and the dizzy side.
3.) Make sure that you have the spark plugs wires in the right order... IT WILL RUN LIKE **** if they are not in the right order.
here is the firing order on the Dist...
on your enginer #1 is closest to the cam gear.... #4 is closet to the tranny
Lets look at some other things:
1.) Spark Plug Gaps... Make sure that each spark plug is properly gapped.
2.) Make sure that each spark plug wire is connected ALL THE WAY... PUSH DOWN HARD on each spark plug wire.. on both side... the spark plug side and the dizzy side.
3.) Make sure that you have the spark plugs wires in the right order... IT WILL RUN LIKE **** if they are not in the right order.
here is the firing order on the Dist...
on your enginer #1 is closest to the cam gear.... #4 is closet to the tranny
06-19-2008, 12:03 AM
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Re: (Crazydave)
wow man insane props on helping this guy out, i wish i saw more threads like this.
OP what exactly did you replace on the motor parts wise and did you unplug any thing? If you got the parts at advance chances of the parts being flawed is some what possible (use to work there, defected lots of parts out). If it was just plugs and wires and t-belt and you didnt mix up any sensors then your best bet would be a plug/wire.
OP what exactly did you replace on the motor parts wise and did you unplug any thing? If you got the parts at advance chances of the parts being flawed is some what possible (use to work there, defected lots of parts out). If it was just plugs and wires and t-belt and you didnt mix up any sensors then your best bet would be a plug/wire.
06-19-2008, 01:06 AM
#34
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Re: (Crazydave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
D16Z6
http://www.rr-ax.com/bbs/photo...=1224
</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ Corrected. Its the D16Z6 not the D16Z1. But you don't need the D16Z6 info for your civic. Just so others know.
When I replaced my timing belt I also went ahead and replaced the camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, timing belt cover rubber seals, water pump, tensioner and spring. I did this because your only going to want to be in there again in 90,000 miles on your next timing belt change. But personally I wouldn't go past 60,000 miles without replacing it.
D16Z6
http://www.rr-ax.com/bbs/photo...=1224
</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ Corrected. Its the D16Z6 not the D16Z1. But you don't need the D16Z6 info for your civic. Just so others know.
When I replaced my timing belt I also went ahead and replaced the camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, timing belt cover rubber seals, water pump, tensioner and spring. I did this because your only going to want to be in there again in 90,000 miles on your next timing belt change. But personally I wouldn't go past 60,000 miles without replacing it.
06-19-2008, 02:33 AM
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Re: (meandino)
bring everything up tdc.
check the rotor and make sure it is pointing at #1.
correct if i am wrong here, but that would rule out the t-belt.
is the dist. cap on good?
check the rotor and make sure it is pointing at #1.
correct if i am wrong here, but that would rule out the t-belt.
is the dist. cap on good?
06-19-2008, 07:28 AM
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Re: (meandino)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meandino »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
^ Corrected. Its the D16Z6 not the D16Z1. But you don't need the D16Z6 info for your civic. Just so others know.
When I replaced my timing belt I also went ahead and replaced the camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, timing belt cover rubber seals, water pump, tensioner and spring. I did this because your only going to want to be in there again in 90,000 miles on your next timing belt change. But personally I wouldn't go past 60,000 miles without replacing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks... I fixed my post.
^ Corrected. Its the D16Z6 not the D16Z1. But you don't need the D16Z6 info for your civic. Just so others know.
When I replaced my timing belt I also went ahead and replaced the camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, timing belt cover rubber seals, water pump, tensioner and spring. I did this because your only going to want to be in there again in 90,000 miles on your next timing belt change. But personally I wouldn't go past 60,000 miles without replacing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks... I fixed my post.
06-19-2008, 10:11 AM
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Re: (EJ1_Sleeper)
yes, your right, it is really great all the help I'm getting on here...dave especially.
I am at work now, but when I get home I will check everything metioned here...including testin the plug wires, checking the plugs (I re-used the old ones, so wouldnt think this was responsible), pushing down hard on all plug wire connections, taking off dizzy cap and making sure it is pointing to #1 when at TDC, checking plug wire routing, etc...
Thanks for all the help again. If I fix it tonight, I'll come on and report. And I'll buy ya'll an electronic internet beer
I am at work now, but when I get home I will check everything metioned here...including testin the plug wires, checking the plugs (I re-used the old ones, so wouldnt think this was responsible), pushing down hard on all plug wire connections, taking off dizzy cap and making sure it is pointing to #1 when at TDC, checking plug wire routing, etc...
Thanks for all the help again. If I fix it tonight, I'll come on and report. And I'll buy ya'll an electronic internet beer
06-19-2008, 10:54 AM
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Awesome thread, I wish there were more truly helpful people on the internet like in this thread!
A quick question:
-why do you need to turn the crank a few times before tightening the tensioner, does this set the preload on it or something?
A quick question:
-why do you need to turn the crank a few times before tightening the tensioner, does this set the preload on it or something?
06-19-2008, 11:15 AM
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Re: (IanB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IanB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome thread, I wish there were more truly helpful people on the internet like in this thread!
A quick question:
-why do you need to turn the crank a few times before tightening the tensioner, does this set the preload on it or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>
By rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/4 turn it will adjust the belt tension correctly. Then you re-tighten the adjusting bolt, and then the tensioner pivot bolt.
A quick question:
-why do you need to turn the crank a few times before tightening the tensioner, does this set the preload on it or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>
By rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/4 turn it will adjust the belt tension correctly. Then you re-tighten the adjusting bolt, and then the tensioner pivot bolt.
06-19-2008, 01:15 PM
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Re: (Crazydave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by kicked25th at 2:21 PM 6/19/2008
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by kicked25th at 2:21 PM 6/19/2008
06-19-2008, 08:41 PM
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Re: (dafuzzbudd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dafuzzbudd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it be a dumb thing to move the cam gear one tooth in each direction when setting the belt to see if one way works better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
06-20-2008, 07:33 AM
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Re: (kicked25th)
It's running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
It was the firing order on the plug wires at the distributer. I dont know why I screwed this up, as I removed one at a time before plugging in the new wire so I wouldnt get them mixed up...
A big part of it was that the manual doesnt show a really good pic of which is which on the dizzy cap....location of each cyl. wire.
When I saw the pic you posted with the little white numbers on each plug wire I immediately went out and looked at them. #1 and #2 were crossed.
So it was never the timing belt after all!!!!
But, you know it worked out in the end, as I really followed the directions more closely the second time by turning the crank left for three teeth THEN tightening up the tensioner pulley bolt.
When I did this I noticed the belt was tighter than when I did it the first time.
So, I guess it was all good.
Thank you kicked, thank you crazy dave (big thank you), thank you everyone else for helping me out of this. Nothing sucks more than not being able to get a car going. I'm new to the honda's and still learning...although very happy with what I'm seeing so far, as they are really easy to work on.
Thanks again,
regards,
matt
It was the firing order on the plug wires at the distributer. I dont know why I screwed this up, as I removed one at a time before plugging in the new wire so I wouldnt get them mixed up...
A big part of it was that the manual doesnt show a really good pic of which is which on the dizzy cap....location of each cyl. wire.
When I saw the pic you posted with the little white numbers on each plug wire
I immediately went out and looked at them. #1 and #2 were crossed.So it was never the timing belt after all!!!!
But, you know it worked out in the end, as I really followed the directions more closely the second time by turning the crank left for three teeth THEN tightening up the tensioner pulley bolt.
When I did this I noticed the belt was tighter than when I did it the first time.
So, I guess it was all good.
Thank you kicked, thank you crazy dave (big thank you), thank you everyone else for helping me out of this. Nothing sucks more than not being able to get a car going. I'm new to the honda's and still learning...although very happy with what I'm seeing so far, as they are really easy to work on.
Thanks again,
regards,
matt