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Old 06-04-2008, 10:21 AM   #51
EGHATCH4YA209
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Default Re: (h2bna motor)

Yes it is posible with aftermarket parts, however all our builds were assembled using OEM honda parts, nothing custom.
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:39 AM   #52
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Default Re: (EGHATCH4YA209)

you right, but I learn an along time ago do it right frist time and save money in the long run
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:20 PM   #53
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josh you at work?
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:48 AM   #54
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Default Re: (ParrisEngineDynamics)

[quote=ParrisEngineDynamics]

I guess it is time to actually build a real engine.

~Derek


I think so
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Old 06-08-2008, 10:15 PM   #55
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Wow didnt know anyone else was working on a K-crank swapped H-series

I'm in the process of doing the same thing, thanks for posting the graphs gives me some motivation!
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Old 06-09-2008, 06:43 AM   #56
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Default Re: (Rosko)

When you modified the K crank was it Re coated after ? ( cryo'd or nitride for example)

It will be interesting to see how the bearings hold up . .
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Old 06-09-2008, 08:57 AM   #57
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Default Re: (2fastGSR)

Did I hear K24 crank moded for the H series? I hate you people! Now I have to dump my 95mm crank! LOL Did this include the K24 rods in there too? Those sure are nice and lengthy....

Edit: So the new hybrid in town H22/K24


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Old 06-09-2008, 09:26 AM   #58
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Default Re: (Televator)

if you take f23 crank and mod it by moving the journal 1mm out and run k20 rods that are 139mm h22 piston 87-89mm you well end you with 99mm strok. the f23 crank is ceap plus a good crank shop well do this for about $400. the k24 crank crank end are defferent because one is timing belt and the other is chain.
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Old 06-09-2008, 09:31 AM   #59
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Default Re: (h2bna motor)

In either scenario you are modding the journal right?

By doing this you are removing all the factory coating which essentially saves bearings.

So i pose the same question, How do you correct or prevent the modded crank from "eating" bearings ?
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Old 06-09-2008, 09:41 AM   #60
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Default Re: (2fastGSR)

you could always use custom rods and pistons no mods to crank needed
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Old 06-09-2008, 09:41 AM   #61
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Default Re: (h2bna motor)

Offset grinding is an area I won't get into myself. Plus I do believe the F23 crank is only 50mm mains...

Edit: At any rate...I'm curious as to what rods were used in the 99mm stroker. If all it required was to mod one end for the belt drive, then this is more or less a much easier approach to a nice and sturdy way to stroke the 98+ H series to more than 95mm.


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Old 06-09-2008, 09:49 AM   #62
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Default Re: (Televator)

it's 55mm mains
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Old 06-09-2008, 09:59 AM   #63
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Default Re: (2fast4u831)

^^^Seems you are right. I'd still want to avoid offset grinding to achieve 99mm. I'm curious as to how the counterweights compare...
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Old 06-09-2008, 11:29 AM   #64
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Default Re: (Televator)

Offset grinding isnt that bad of an idea as long as you dont over extend it.
From what I have seen 3mm is the max to offset grind, but it all leads back to how often you want to change bearings after you remove the factory coating.
The closest thing to the factory coating I have seen is Nitride coating. Was going to test it on a 93.5mm h22 crank, but never got around to sending the crank out.

Which is why i asked my question . . .

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Old 06-09-2008, 11:35 AM   #65
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Default Re: (Televator)

First of all, offset grinding a crank is a little more complicated than people think, and that's why we chose not to mod an f23 crank. Between opening up the journal, offset grinding, and a fairly expensive heat treat (that must be done) it was way more cost effective to go the route we did. The 99mm crank has been modified in several different ways to make it a flawless set up that is extremely cost affective. Let us know if anyone may be interested in a kit and we will concider selling them.

Keep checking in, we should soon have another dyno session that will include ITB's on the 99 stroke motor.

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Old 06-09-2008, 04:38 PM   #66
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Default Re: (EGHATCH4YA209)

you know i want one
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Old 06-10-2008, 05:51 AM   #67
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Default Re: (FLATBUSH PROJECTS)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosko
Wow didnt know anyone else was working on a K-crank swapped H-series

I'm in the process of doing the same thing, thanks for posting the graphs gives me some motivation!
your not the only one.....
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:27 PM   #68
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Default Re: (alterdcreations)

Anyone know where I can find a F23 crank and rods. I really want to build one of these now. Also how would h22a4 pistons be with the f23(97mm stroke crank)?? Would i need to have the pistons machined?
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:02 AM   #69
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Default Re: (Gold DA9)

i know im doing back to back post, but i just thought of this...

What would a JRSC do with one of these motors

Or would it be too much for it?

Sorry if this is blasphemy because its in the all motor forum.
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:16 AM   #70
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Default

Hey I was just wondering what the effective compression ratio was on these motors. I didn't see anything about the head being milled or anything but I just wanted to ask to be sure i could have calculated it but i think you know more about the motor than I do.. I would really appreciate it... I got a link to a great calculator .. the rest of the website is in french i think though but I would really appreciate the compression ratio along with the elevation of the dyno and what octane gas you use.. Im thinking of running 12.5:1 on 91 octane and have it tuned so I dont knock or ping..

http://www.clubcivicquebec.com...f.php

To clear this up... NO grinding on the 98+ prelude cranks no grinding on f23 cranks... No grindin on K series cranks but you have to modify where the timing belt pulley is. If you use an f22 crank or a pre 1998 crank that does not have 55mm mains then you have some problems...


Modified by cdownin at 8:24 AM 6/16/2008
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:22 PM   #71
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:44 PM   #72
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Default Re: (cdownin)

Your looking at 12.7cr and depending on how much you mill the head you can get to about 13.1cr, it all depends on what you want to do and or how you plan the build, milling the head will surely affect some of the variables so you have to take into account a lot of things.
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:55 PM   #73
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Default Re: (Gold DA9)

F23 crank F23 rods H22a4 piston= 11.7cr and yes you will have to have your pistons modified or you will have piston to valve issues.
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Old 06-16-2008, 02:09 PM   #74
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Default Re: (EGHATCH4YA209)

The other build on here F23 block, F23 crank and rods and K20 pistons... this allow a better out of hole # rather then H pistons, wrist pin location lower? a better valve to piston combo... just getting idea why the k20 pistons was a suited option and is there some modding of them...
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:28 PM   #75
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within the next week or two I will be sending my block off to the machine shop for complete honeing, balanceing, and depending on how much clearance i have I will be milling the step out of the head... I am using k20a2 pistons which i got for 55 shipped... LOL not a freebie though... so I will maybe take some pictures and make a thread if I get everything looking good enough right now i got a pile of parts in the corner of my garage on tha floor... LOL
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