How To: Swap Out Your Motor
05-08-2008, 05:31 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How To: Swap Out Your Motor
How To Swap Out Your Motor
I’ve noticed here on H-T that there is just about every single thing that covers your car, except how to pull a motor and how to put it back in.
Now I am not going to go over the exact torque sequence for your car, or the specs for it. Each and every car is different, so I’m not going to tell you to do one thing when its really something else. There is no exception when swapping out a motor, you Need a Helms .
Get a Helms for your car, it has the God Damn specs for everything in it.
If you are a novice at auto mechanic work and don’t know much about cars and want to swap out your motor, I suggest that you don’t do this unless you are willing to get your hands dirty and run into every single problem that can occur with your car. If you can handle that, than go on, I encourage DIY, as should everyone else.
Tools needed
1. Set Of Wrenches
2. Socket Wrenches from 8mm to 19mm
3. Crank Pulley Tool(If you plan on doing a manual tensioned Timing Belt
4. Air Supply and Air Tools( I don’t have them, but they sure as hell make it easier)
5. Car Jack
6. Jack stands
7. Breaker Bar
8. Torque Wrench
9. Assortment of Screw Drivers
8. Ratchets
10. Oil Pan
11. Engine Lift
12. Pliers and Vice Grips
13. Patience
14. And of course A new motor
15. Here is a link to all different stuff you can do to prep your motor(Which I wont get into cause I already did it)https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2243380
16. Zip Lock Bags
Step 1
Place your car on Jack stands. Don’t be stupid while you do this. Each car has a special place to put them as well.
You can start by draining all your fluids. Coolant, Oil, and Transmission Fluid.
Here is the Coolant
Transmission Fluid
And I already did the oil and didn’t get a photo, but I’m sure you get the drift.
Step 2.
Okay this is where you start getting the car ready.
Start by removing the Hood. There are 2 bolts that hold it on. If you still have your windshield wiper squinters there will be a little hose to disconnect.
Now Imagine that with No Hood.
Step 3
Its time to remove the header and down pipe from the car.
The Picture above is the down pipe, and you can see how it stretches all the way back.
This is a photo of the part where the header connects to the down pipe. There are 3 bolts holding them on. There where 12mm. it’s a Megan racing header, no a oem, so it might be different. So remove all those bolts.
And do the same thing with Down pipe where it is connected to the cat converter. Again there are three bolts, that are 14mm.
Note that you still might have to undo the rubber hinges that are there holding the exhaust system up. Also the 02 sensor must be disconnected. Disconnect the wire harness.
No Header and all 8 nuts come off, and put into your little bag. 12mm
This is where the zip lock bags come into play. Stick all your bolts for each thing in a different bag, you will see as you go along that there are a **** load of bolts, screws etc that will end up all over the place, if you don’t keep them organized, and make everything else very hard to put back together again.
Step 4
Okay now that all fluids are drained and the header and DP are removed you can start to remove some of the clutter from the engine bay. There really is no particular order to do this in, even though the helms says to do it like so, I just started from the font and worked my way to the back.
Disconnect the Battery, and all the battery wires. The positive wires run from the battery, to the starter and one to the fuse box. The Negative wires, go to different grounds on the cars, so just remove that one as well. There also is another ground wire on the driver side motor mount to be removed as well. Also remove the battery platform and stand, there are 4 bolts for the platform and 2 for the stand.
Next Remove all of the following
Air Intake
Distributor and Coil there are 2 bolts holding the dizzy to the head 14mm, and the coil is probably bolted on top of the Rear T-stat housing.
Radiator and Radiator fans. Now if you have AC you will have to remove that as well, I don’t have it, so I have no picture. Its pretty easy though. To remove the Radiator there is 4 bolts on the top of it held on by brackets, remove them. As well as removing the upper and lower radiator hoses. It should pull right out.
Next is Powered steering pump. There are 3 bolts holding the pump onto the bracket, remove them, than remove the bracket, which there are three or four bolts as well. Do not disconnect the PS hard lines, it is easier to just stick it aside of the engine bay still with the hard lines attached. It is a pressurized system and needs to be left alone.
Next you can do the Alternator, pretty easy, just remove all the bolts holding it on and then the bracket, much like the PS.
Then you have the starter, Two bolts holding it on, and don’t forget to mark the wires on there.
Step 5
Now that, that is complete, you can start to do the most important thing that a swap involves. Any idiot with a wrench can undo a couple bolts and go on, but when removing the wire harness, you must mark each wire, down, so that you know where everything goes when your new motor is in the bay.
This is how I did it, I used the blue painters tape to cover my windows so I could draw a map on there for later. I then proceeded to mark down each wire end with a number and listed it on the blue tape, and then on the map.
And My final product looked like this
Now I had to go under the car and do this one sensor at a time, this is the utmost important thing in a swap, making sure everything is labeled correctly, I did it for everything from the injectors, to the rad fan turn on. Take your time and be precise. I spent about an hour doing this, maybe more.
Step 6
Now that there is more room to work you can now get to a couple more parts of this process.
1. There is the shifter cables(This is for a manual motor, I don’t know about automatic) As you see in the picture they are held on by a bracket. The bolts are on the bracket, so you can remove, them, I think they are 2 10mm bolts. Also to remove the shifter cables them selves they are held on by a cottar pin and then there is a plastic washer, 1 on each side that have to come off.
Next thing is your VSS, mine is in the transmission housing and is held in there by one 10mm bolt. Just remove the bolt and twist the VSS out of there, it will come out. There also are 2 10mm bolts that hold the vss onto the wire harness, its your option to move them if you want.
Also there are a few more things to remove, here they are in a list
1. Fuel rail, just remove all three bolts holding it onto the motor. It makes it easier that way cause you have to label the injectors and the IAVC wire harness as well. Undo the Fuel Pressure bolt which is 12 mm I think and the Banjo bolt which is 17mm. There is two washers on there that go on ether side of the fuel feed hose.
2. The clutch lines, yes might as well remove them as well, just keep in mind that you will need to bleed the clutch when all is said and done. Two bolts holding the Clutch thing(sorry its late) onto the tranny, one that is bolted onto the tranny, and right where it connects next to the shifter cables. Watch out it gets messy
3. There is the throttle line, it is held on buy 2 bolts that you spin to give the throttle play, and then slide it off. It then will slide out, and you have to flip the cable upside down to get the pin out of the throttle spring.(Once you see it you will understand)
4. This Misc Hoses attached to the car, the little vacuum hoses and the coolant hoses. Just disconnect them and keep them marked as to where they go.
Step 7
Now that pretty much everything is set here, there are only a few more things to do before you can get the crane in the bay. Now you have to pull the axels from the motor. There a few ways to do this. First thing you do is remove the two front wheels.
Next after that you have to remove the Cottar pin on the castle nut, for the lower ball joint. Once the cottar pin is removed the castle nut can than be removed. Now this ball joint is most likely going to be a bitch to get it to separate form the lower control arm. I always find that a crow bar works when prying this bad boy out. Don’t forget you might have to muscle it, and don’t tear the CV boot.
Once that is done you have to remove the wishbone thing that attaches to from the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm.
There is one long bolt on the bottom and one bolt and nut on the top. Pretty easy to get this thing off, compared to some other stuff.
Now once that’s complete you have to pull the axel. This thing is a pain in the ***, cause the CV Joint has a little lock ring on the end of it, making it entirely to hard to pull the CV Joint and axel at the same time. So I always remove the CV Bearings from inside the Joint. And wrap a plastic bag around the end of it.
Stick the bearings in a air tight container to avoid dirt and dust.
And you have the option to wiggle and jiggle the CV Joint out or leave it in there for now.
Step 8
Okay now its time for the final step here. Removing the Engine. Now First thing you want to do is make sure that your lift has clearance from front of Engine. I had to remove my front bumper to accomplish this.
Once that is said and done bring the hoist on in. And attach it safely to the motor. There are special places on the motor that you can attach to crane to lift it out. We have removed all those things all ready so if you feel the need put them back on. They are on the PS Bracket.
Now once that is said and done, you have to raise the hoist a bit to remove pressure from the motor mounts which you are now about to remove.
Start by removing the rear motor mount first. Undo the one bolt that actually holds the mount onto the motor. Than do the front, driver side and then the tranny.
I always go from the top of the bay when hoisting out, so it gets to be a little tricky, use that crow bar as a guide for the motor. When hoisting it out. You might want to remove all the equipment holding the motor mounts on. I always find that easier so you don’t end up scratching something.
Once the motor is finally out of the bay, you now have successfully removed the motor. Congrats you just saved yourself 800 bucks labor. The Helms says it’s a total of 16 hours of straight work to pull and replace the whole motor. So that’s about 1600 bucks for a shop just in labor.
Now to replace the motor, just repeat all said steps backwards. This is not an easy task and takes time and patience. It isn’t like slapping an air intake on. This is advanced work which some people go to school for years to learn how to do.
Well whatever your reason being for doing this congrats you now have an overwhelming feeling of satisfaction.
Remember that when doing this, make sure that you have a helms, it has every torque spec for when you reinstall the motor. You defiantly need to torque everything in that engine bay down, otherwise you will end up with more issues than you need.
Good Luck
I’ve noticed here on H-T that there is just about every single thing that covers your car, except how to pull a motor and how to put it back in.
Now I am not going to go over the exact torque sequence for your car, or the specs for it. Each and every car is different, so I’m not going to tell you to do one thing when its really something else. There is no exception when swapping out a motor, you Need a Helms .
Get a Helms for your car, it has the God Damn specs for everything in it.
If you are a novice at auto mechanic work and don’t know much about cars and want to swap out your motor, I suggest that you don’t do this unless you are willing to get your hands dirty and run into every single problem that can occur with your car. If you can handle that, than go on, I encourage DIY, as should everyone else.
Tools needed
1. Set Of Wrenches
2. Socket Wrenches from 8mm to 19mm
3. Crank Pulley Tool(If you plan on doing a manual tensioned Timing Belt
4. Air Supply and Air Tools( I don’t have them, but they sure as hell make it easier)
5. Car Jack
6. Jack stands
7. Breaker Bar
8. Torque Wrench
9. Assortment of Screw Drivers
8. Ratchets
10. Oil Pan
11. Engine Lift
12. Pliers and Vice Grips
13. Patience
14. And of course A new motor
15. Here is a link to all different stuff you can do to prep your motor(Which I wont get into cause I already did it)https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2243380
16. Zip Lock Bags
Step 1
Place your car on Jack stands. Don’t be stupid while you do this. Each car has a special place to put them as well.
You can start by draining all your fluids. Coolant, Oil, and Transmission Fluid.
Here is the CoolantTransmission FluidAnd I already did the oil and didn’t get a photo, but I’m sure you get the drift.
Step 2.
Okay this is where you start getting the car ready.
Start by removing the Hood. There are 2 bolts that hold it on. If you still have your windshield wiper squinters there will be a little hose to disconnect.
Now Imagine that with No Hood.
Step 3
Its time to remove the header and down pipe from the car.
The Picture above is the down pipe, and you can see how it stretches all the way back.
This is a photo of the part where the header connects to the down pipe. There are 3 bolts holding them on. There where 12mm. it’s a Megan racing header, no a oem, so it might be different. So remove all those bolts.
And do the same thing with Down pipe where it is connected to the cat converter. Again there are three bolts, that are 14mm.
Note that you still might have to undo the rubber hinges that are there holding the exhaust system up. Also the 02 sensor must be disconnected. Disconnect the wire harness.
No Header and all 8 nuts come off, and put into your little bag. 12mmThis is where the zip lock bags come into play. Stick all your bolts for each thing in a different bag, you will see as you go along that there are a **** load of bolts, screws etc that will end up all over the place, if you don’t keep them organized, and make everything else very hard to put back together again.
Step 4
Okay now that all fluids are drained and the header and DP are removed you can start to remove some of the clutter from the engine bay. There really is no particular order to do this in, even though the helms says to do it like so, I just started from the font and worked my way to the back.
Disconnect the Battery, and all the battery wires. The positive wires run from the battery, to the starter and one to the fuse box. The Negative wires, go to different grounds on the cars, so just remove that one as well. There also is another ground wire on the driver side motor mount to be removed as well. Also remove the battery platform and stand, there are 4 bolts for the platform and 2 for the stand.
Next Remove all of the following
Air Intake
Distributor and Coil there are 2 bolts holding the dizzy to the head 14mm, and the coil is probably bolted on top of the Rear T-stat housing.
Radiator and Radiator fans. Now if you have AC you will have to remove that as well, I don’t have it, so I have no picture. Its pretty easy though. To remove the Radiator there is 4 bolts on the top of it held on by brackets, remove them. As well as removing the upper and lower radiator hoses. It should pull right out.
Next is Powered steering pump. There are 3 bolts holding the pump onto the bracket, remove them, than remove the bracket, which there are three or four bolts as well. Do not disconnect the PS hard lines, it is easier to just stick it aside of the engine bay still with the hard lines attached. It is a pressurized system and needs to be left alone.
Next you can do the Alternator, pretty easy, just remove all the bolts holding it on and then the bracket, much like the PS.
Then you have the starter, Two bolts holding it on, and don’t forget to mark the wires on there.
Step 5
Now that, that is complete, you can start to do the most important thing that a swap involves. Any idiot with a wrench can undo a couple bolts and go on, but when removing the wire harness, you must mark each wire, down, so that you know where everything goes when your new motor is in the bay.
This is how I did it, I used the blue painters tape to cover my windows so I could draw a map on there for later. I then proceeded to mark down each wire end with a number and listed it on the blue tape, and then on the map.
And My final product looked like this
Now I had to go under the car and do this one sensor at a time, this is the utmost important thing in a swap, making sure everything is labeled correctly, I did it for everything from the injectors, to the rad fan turn on. Take your time and be precise. I spent about an hour doing this, maybe more.
Step 6
Now that there is more room to work you can now get to a couple more parts of this process.
1. There is the shifter cables(This is for a manual motor, I don’t know about automatic) As you see in the picture they are held on by a bracket. The bolts are on the bracket, so you can remove, them, I think they are 2 10mm bolts. Also to remove the shifter cables them selves they are held on by a cottar pin and then there is a plastic washer, 1 on each side that have to come off.
Next thing is your VSS, mine is in the transmission housing and is held in there by one 10mm bolt. Just remove the bolt and twist the VSS out of there, it will come out. There also are 2 10mm bolts that hold the vss onto the wire harness, its your option to move them if you want.
Also there are a few more things to remove, here they are in a list
1. Fuel rail, just remove all three bolts holding it onto the motor. It makes it easier that way cause you have to label the injectors and the IAVC wire harness as well. Undo the Fuel Pressure bolt which is 12 mm I think and the Banjo bolt which is 17mm. There is two washers on there that go on ether side of the fuel feed hose.
2. The clutch lines, yes might as well remove them as well, just keep in mind that you will need to bleed the clutch when all is said and done. Two bolts holding the Clutch thing(sorry its late) onto the tranny, one that is bolted onto the tranny, and right where it connects next to the shifter cables. Watch out it gets messy
3. There is the throttle line, it is held on buy 2 bolts that you spin to give the throttle play, and then slide it off. It then will slide out, and you have to flip the cable upside down to get the pin out of the throttle spring.(Once you see it you will understand)
4. This Misc Hoses attached to the car, the little vacuum hoses and the coolant hoses. Just disconnect them and keep them marked as to where they go.
Step 7
Now that pretty much everything is set here, there are only a few more things to do before you can get the crane in the bay. Now you have to pull the axels from the motor. There a few ways to do this. First thing you do is remove the two front wheels.
Next after that you have to remove the Cottar pin on the castle nut, for the lower ball joint. Once the cottar pin is removed the castle nut can than be removed. Now this ball joint is most likely going to be a bitch to get it to separate form the lower control arm. I always find that a crow bar works when prying this bad boy out. Don’t forget you might have to muscle it, and don’t tear the CV boot.
Once that is done you have to remove the wishbone thing that attaches to from the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm.
There is one long bolt on the bottom and one bolt and nut on the top. Pretty easy to get this thing off, compared to some other stuff.
Now once that’s complete you have to pull the axel. This thing is a pain in the ***, cause the CV Joint has a little lock ring on the end of it, making it entirely to hard to pull the CV Joint and axel at the same time. So I always remove the CV Bearings from inside the Joint. And wrap a plastic bag around the end of it.
Stick the bearings in a air tight container to avoid dirt and dust.
And you have the option to wiggle and jiggle the CV Joint out or leave it in there for now.
Step 8
Okay now its time for the final step here. Removing the Engine. Now First thing you want to do is make sure that your lift has clearance from front of Engine. I had to remove my front bumper to accomplish this.
Once that is said and done bring the hoist on in. And attach it safely to the motor. There are special places on the motor that you can attach to crane to lift it out. We have removed all those things all ready so if you feel the need put them back on. They are on the PS Bracket.
Now once that is said and done, you have to raise the hoist a bit to remove pressure from the motor mounts which you are now about to remove.
Start by removing the rear motor mount first. Undo the one bolt that actually holds the mount onto the motor. Than do the front, driver side and then the tranny.
I always go from the top of the bay when hoisting out, so it gets to be a little tricky, use that crow bar as a guide for the motor. When hoisting it out. You might want to remove all the equipment holding the motor mounts on. I always find that easier so you don’t end up scratching something.
Once the motor is finally out of the bay, you now have successfully removed the motor. Congrats you just saved yourself 800 bucks labor. The Helms says it’s a total of 16 hours of straight work to pull and replace the whole motor. So that’s about 1600 bucks for a shop just in labor.
Now to replace the motor, just repeat all said steps backwards. This is not an easy task and takes time and patience. It isn’t like slapping an air intake on. This is advanced work which some people go to school for years to learn how to do.
Well whatever your reason being for doing this congrats you now have an overwhelming feeling of satisfaction.
Remember that when doing this, make sure that you have a helms, it has every torque spec for when you reinstall the motor. You defiantly need to torque everything in that engine bay down, otherwise you will end up with more issues than you need.
Good Luck
05-08-2008, 07:29 AM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Auburn, Wa, USA
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Decent write-up. You listed a couple extraneous steps, like removing the fuel rail. I don't see why that is necessary. Also, half shaft bearing removal? Not sure why you'd need to.
Couple other notes:
-There are in fact 4 bolts holding the hood on.
-You do not need to remove the AC to pull the engine, especially since you'd have to have it charged again and that costs money.
-You can leave the clutch line in the car, and you wont have to bleed it.
-The factory shop manual has a pretty decent writeup of how everything should come out and go back.
Couple other notes:
-There are in fact 4 bolts holding the hood on.
-You do not need to remove the AC to pull the engine, especially since you'd have to have it charged again and that costs money.
-You can leave the clutch line in the car, and you wont have to bleed it.
-The factory shop manual has a pretty decent writeup of how everything should come out and go back.
05-08-2008, 07:54 AM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (prelewd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelewd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Decent write-up. You listed a couple extraneous steps, like removing the fuel rail. I don't see why that is necessary. Also, half shaft bearing removal? Not sure why you'd need to.
Couple other notes:
-There are in fact 4 bolts holding the hood on.
-You do not need to remove the AC to pull the engine, especially since you'd have to have it charged again and that costs money.
-You can leave the clutch line in the car, and you wont have to bleed it.
-The factory shop manual has a pretty decent writeup of how everything should come out and go back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, I meant 2 bolt per side on the hindge.
You have to remove A/C Fan, not the whole a/c
I find it easier to remove the clutch line, because its pretty hard to bend it out of the way.
I may have missed a few things, it took me a good three days to get all pics and write it up, so please add in any corrections where you see fit.
Couple other notes:
-There are in fact 4 bolts holding the hood on.
-You do not need to remove the AC to pull the engine, especially since you'd have to have it charged again and that costs money.
-You can leave the clutch line in the car, and you wont have to bleed it.
-The factory shop manual has a pretty decent writeup of how everything should come out and go back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, I meant 2 bolt per side on the hindge.
You have to remove A/C Fan, not the whole a/c
I find it easier to remove the clutch line, because its pretty hard to bend it out of the way.
I may have missed a few things, it took me a good three days to get all pics and write it up, so please add in any corrections where you see fit.
05-08-2008, 07:55 AM
#4
Acid, you don't need to remove the engine harness while it is in the car, just disconnect the main connectors at the shock tower.
I also don't see why you need to remove the starter or the fuel rail. The VSS does not need to be removed either, just disconnect the power steering lines.
Also, it is much much easier to simply remove the slave cylinder and all the hard lines and push them to the side without disconnecting, that way no mess and no bleeding. edit: I see prelewd beat me to a few things, but just to add, you don't have to bend anything out of the way, there is a soft line that runs to the top of the trans.
Oh, and what is this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get a Helms for your car, it has the God Damn specs for everything in it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No need for the vulgarity...
I also don't see why you need to remove the starter or the fuel rail. The VSS does not need to be removed either, just disconnect the power steering lines.
Also, it is much much easier to simply remove the slave cylinder and all the hard lines and push them to the side without disconnecting, that way no mess and no bleeding. edit: I see prelewd beat me to a few things, but just to add, you don't have to bend anything out of the way, there is a soft line that runs to the top of the trans.
Oh, and what is this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get a Helms for your car, it has the God Damn specs for everything in it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No need for the vulgarity...
05-08-2008, 08:09 AM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: How To: Swap Out Your Motor (Acidcrakker)
Well there are a of reasons why I took so many extra steps.
Last time I swapped I ran into issues with the wireharness not being label correctly and the motor would start right up.
Also for the CV AXELS. i find it easier to remove the CV joint when the motor is out of the car.
I took fuel rail off cause its coming off anyway because its another jDM MOTOR going in.
All in all I took extra steps this times because what ever issues I ran into last time I swapped so that this way I wont make those same mistakes again.
Last time I swapped I ran into issues with the wireharness not being label correctly and the motor would start right up.
Also for the CV AXELS. i find it easier to remove the CV joint when the motor is out of the car.
I took fuel rail off cause its coming off anyway because its another jDM MOTOR going in.
All in all I took extra steps this times because what ever issues I ran into last time I swapped so that this way I wont make those same mistakes again.
05-08-2008, 08:16 AM
#6
The main connectors for the wiring harness cannot be mixed up, they only fit one way. It is much easier to just disconnect them from the car at the shock tower. Its like 5 connectors and a ground wire.
Trending Topics
05-09-2008, 05:41 AM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Szczecin, Poland
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (nemesis25)
Hmm, you took some extra steps I don't ever think of taking out the engine. Actually it takes me below 3 hours to get it out. No need to remove harness though. But it's Ok if it makes you feel comfortable.
05-09-2008, 07:06 AM
#11
Re: (pentaq)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually it takes me below 3 hours to get it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We should race
We should race
05-09-2008, 08:05 AM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
We should race</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got the engine out my old car and into the new car in one day.
i'm up for the race
We should race
</TD></TR></TABLE>i got the engine out my old car and into the new car in one day.
i'm up for the race
01-24-2009, 07:32 PM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: US
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: How To: Swap Out Your Motor
very nice writeup!
now i need more info on those hood dampers you have and whats needed for those.
i havnt been able to make any work on my 4th gen....
pm me if you dont mind about how to install those and which shocks to get...
or just make a write up. =] lol
now i need more info on those hood dampers you have and whats needed for those.
i havnt been able to make any work on my 4th gen....
pm me if you dont mind about how to install those and which shocks to get...
or just make a write up. =] lol
01-25-2009, 01:52 PM
#16
Re: How To: Swap Out Your Motor
I will also say remove the engine with the harness on, then either just do what you did while not bending over a car, or just swap them over with the engines side by side.
01-27-2009, 03:54 PM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: How To: Swap Out Your Motor
nice howto! Like others have said there are a few different ways to do things, but this will be very useful to people!
01-28-2009, 05:56 AM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: How To: Swap Out Your Motor
Just an FYI if someones doing a swap you might want to loosen your axel bolt before you jack it up... because that things tourqed on there pretty good... That should be step one... But if you dont need to change axels you are fine...
01-28-2009, 07:28 AM
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: How To: Swap Out Your Motor
What I might do in the future is weld the hindges onto the hood so that I van open the hood all the way at a 90 degree angle. But Im thinking of going carbon fiber hood and trunk when I paint the outside of the car later this year. And you really cant use them on CF hoods
01-28-2009, 05:39 PM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: US
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: How To: Swap Out Your Motor
The ones I have are cheap ones off ebay, mabey costs 50 bucks. IDK know how much longer Im going to keep them though, they are more or less a very poor quailty made, and after installing them and reinstalling them a few times, they loose their strength and the "cheap" aspect falls into play.
What I might do in the future is weld the hindges onto the hood so that I van open the hood all the way at a 90 degree angle. But Im thinking of going carbon fiber hood and trunk when I paint the outside of the car later this year. And you really cant use them on CF hoods
What I might do in the future is weld the hindges onto the hood so that I van open the hood all the way at a 90 degree angle. But Im thinking of going carbon fiber hood and trunk when I paint the outside of the car later this year. And you really cant use them on CF hoods
i can get different shocks if need be, the only really thing i need to know is what the brackets look like and how they bolt on the hood..
are they for "92-96 prelude" ?
i really need some of these since i cant find my hood prop anywhere. lol and it looks a lot cleaner of course..
wish this writeup was around when i did my swap a little over a year ago..
even though i did it pretty much the same way you did...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mark Courtney
Honda Minivans, Crossovers, and Trucks
0
01-03-2018 11:06 AM
