95greenlude

Recently i have received a lot of questions related to nitrous, specifically the install. Its defiantly not hard, I'd say about a 4/10.

**DISCLAIMER** I am NOT responsible for you blowing up your car because you dont know how to install a nitrous kit.....its YOUR responsibility to make sure YOU do it correctly....


Things you will need:

Obviously your nitrous kit:

-Bottle
-Solenoids
-Jets (fuel and nitrous)
-Nozzle
-Nitrous Feed Line (Bottle to Solenoid)
-Solenoid to jet SS Braided lines
-fuel feed line (fuel source to solenoid)
-Cheap-o switch from autozone
-button OR full throttle switch
-extra wiring
-drill bit and tap to match the threads on the Nozzle
-yourself
-about 2-3 hours


ok now to start it off, i didnt install a kit while explaining this write up, my kit is already installed, and i will give you instructions on how I installed my kit(with Pictures).

Step 1:
Decide where your going to mount/place your solenoids. I decided to mount them under the fuse box. though you can mount them anywhere you want.

-To get the fuse box out of the way, remove the cover.
-then remove 1 10mm bolt holding it down, and push toward the rear of the car on the 2 tabs at the back of the fuse box, and lift up at the same time.....it should be removable now.(you might need to take off some connectors on the side of the fuse box as well, mine are tucked away)


Step 2:

Route your main Nitrous Feed line to the solenoid location
I routed mine through the rear ash tray, through the center console, behind the ECU, and up through the firewall











Step 3:
run your wiring: make sure you disconnect the battery first!!
i got my 12v source from the fuse box and this is how i wired my system in. (in the diagram i forgot to mention i put an inline fuse inbetween the switch and battery/12v source, just for safe measure


my 12v source


this is where my switch is




and the full throttle switch




after the system is wired in, before you hook up you fuel lines, turn the car on and give power to the system. Press down on your full throttle switch and listen for the solenoids clicking.....if you dont here them click, you have a problem.

Step 4:
take off your intake and decide where your nozzle placement will be: i put mine on under the first bend on the intake off the throttle body (about 6" from the throttle body Butterfly)

drill and tap where your going to put it, i chose to jb weld mine in because the nozzle would move around otherwise.


Step 5:
Run your fuel feed line to your fuel solenoid IN.
this is tricky, there are MANY MANY ways you can do this. I decided to get a couple of fittings, a 90* male male, a 90* female male, and an open ended banjo bolt. where did i get the banjo and the 90* female male???? I bought a cheep *** fuel pressure gauge and it came with it!! I just had to go to a shop to get a custom SS line made to run from the rail to the solenoid. IIRC 24". Another alternative fuel source is on top of the fuel filter.



Step 6:

Run the lines from your solenoids to the nozzle, i just went to a local performance shop that stocks SS lines and grabbed a couple of 2' ones.



Step 7:
make sure you used teflon tape on all the fuel side fittings, just for safe measure. turn your key to the "on" position to check for any leaks in the fuel system

also, hook up your bottle and turn on the nozzle to your bottle to make sure there are no leaks in your nitrous lines.

Step 8:
make sure you have the correct jets for the shot you are wanting to spray, i use this program to make sure my jetting is correct.

http://www.robietherobot.com/n...r.htm

this is regarding INSTALLING nitrous, if you have any questions regarding what jetting you should run, what plugs, stuff like that, go here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2119397

OH! AND YES I KNOW MY INTERIOR IS FILTHY AND FULL OF DOG HAIR, I HAVE A GERMAN SHEPHERD THAT LOVES TO GO TO THE PARK AND PLAY!

and let me know if i need to change/reword/add/delete anything


happy tunning, Jared

lude98SH

on the nitrous side, if there are any leaks your going to hear them correct ? I mean it should be under 900-1100 psi.

BTW very good writeup. Could I see a better engine bay shot ? It looks like you hide the system very well, something I was thinking of doing but didnt even think of mounting them under the fuse box

95greenlude

^yea you'll hear a loud hiss.... bottle should be around 900-1100 psi

yea let me go snap a better picture

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

good write up

bauergold

nice write up!

95greenlude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW very good writeup. Could I see a better engine bay shot ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

PS delete and battery in the trunk coming soon!

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

Great write up! Thanks for the help, i really appreciate it. I'll be asking you more questions over the next little while.

v8killaz

nice

dre2day

Good write up!

Hows that FT switch working for you?

BlackCatt

Ace write-up The install process isnt as complicated as i thought. I will definately consider a nitrous setup in the next couple of years.

JDM R Cooker

Ive been looking for a thread like this for awhile now. Great write up

JDM R Cooker

wat is easier to install wet or dry ? Is dat true u dnt need a wet unless ur planning 2 shoot more than 100?

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

Broom stick holding the hood open? Sweet.

Hawkze_2.3

Interesting read, thanks for posting that up

95greenlude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM R Cooker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wat is easier to install wet or dry ? Is dat true u dnt need a wet unless ur planning 2 shoot more than 100?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the only difference is a fuel line....


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyle@KR-TFab &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Broom stick holding the hood open? Sweet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i need a hood prop...i dont have one....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting read, thanks for posting that up </TD></TR></TABLE>

no1knows908

Not trying to be an a$$ but isn't the FT switch usually supposed to be mounted to the throttle plate? I just feel like it would end up breaking a lot easier by the pedal IMHO.

But anyway besides me being ****, very nice writeup and love the location for the solenoids, never would have thought of it. Very clean/sleeper!

I was planning on getting a Zex wet kit in the near future and was curious as to if anyone has ever tried mounting a bottle in the rear console, I have the dreaded 92 rear console (AKA sex blocker). I was thinking about completely removing the bottom half of the console and just using the lid to cover the hole. I figure I could maybe mount a 10lb. bottle down there to keep it hidden.


Modified by no1knows908 at 3:28 AM 4/1/2008

95greenlude

^thats a good point with the FT switch....it is actually mounted at the exact spot where the throttle hits the stop....so no damage can be had to it....

on my 4th gen. i can be at full throttle, but not hit the switch.......the throttle will go down all the way, but not be all the way down....

v8killaz

got a question, ur fuel line on the setup, ohh i forgot to mention im noob at this ****, its all good till you state this part

.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95greenlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Step 5:
Run your fuel feed line to your fuel solenoid IN.
this is tricky, there are MANY MANY ways you can do this. I decided to get a couple of fittings, a 90* male male, a 90* female male, and an open ended banjo bolt. where did i get the banjo and the 90* female male???? I bought a cheep *** fuel pressure gauge and it came with it!! I just had to go to a shop to get a custom SS line made to run from the rail to the solenoid. IIRC 24". Another alternative fuel source is on top of the fuel filter.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, where does that line go to, does it go to the no2 nozzle on the intake, and where can u tap the fuel from

no1knows908

He means find a place to tap into your fuel source. Most common places are the banjo bolt on the fuel filter or the more popular banjo/service bolt on the fuel rail. Once you decide where you're going to get your fuel supply from you run a line from that location to the fuel solenoid for the nitrous kit. You have two solenoids in a "wet" kit, fuel and nitrous. You have a line that runs from each solenoid to one nozzle where the fuel and nitrous are combined. The nozzle that combines the fuel and nitrous flow is what goes into the intake.

v8killaz

ok i got it, i though u had to tap it from a specific location, thx for the info.
ok though is this how it is
hose from bottle to selenoid then to nozzle
another hose from tapped fuel area to solenoid then to nozzle and thats it
does the fuel and no2 solenoids open at one time when power goes through and then their free flowing meaning no2 and fuel is going through intake at full pressure

no1knows908

No problem, and yea you have the right idea about the setup. Yes, both solenoids open at the same time. You will always have pressure on the fuel line so there shouldn't be any air before the solenoid. You only open the nitrous bottle right before you plan on using it so the nitrous line fills with air when not in use. Thats where the nitrous purge comes in. You open the bottle and hit the purge button once or twice to get all the air out the line. That way when you actually spray you are getting an even mixture. Without a purge you would shoot nothing but fuel until the nitrous pushes all that air out which will cause you to run extremely rich at the beginning of the shot.

v8killaz

thx alot for taking ur time to respond, most h-t's flame me for askin ?'s like that, now i finally get this nitrous stuff, though i know alot about turbo, nitrous will be new to me and so i must get as much info as possible, i plan on doing a small maybe 50-75 shot wet nitrous setup on my em1, hopefully everything works out good

no1knows908

I actually just finished doing a lot of research on nitrous as I plan to run a Zex 55 wet shot once I get my JDM H22 dropped in. I recommend going with the Zex kit because both solenoids are neatly packaged into one little control box. It also uses the signal from the throttle position sensor instead of that fragile little full throttle switch. They tend to break, bend, come unplugged, or just plain crap out on you at the worst times. And if you are paranoid like me, I plan on going with a MSD digital RPM window switch that way I can help control wheel spin and set the nitrous to cut off right before the fuel cutoff. The way I see it is that an extra $100 now is much better than a new motor after one too many sprays.

v8killaz

yeah but when i install mine, ill disregard doing high rpm launches and shifts cuz i know i have an extra 40-70 whp you know, i mean i get ur idea and damn 100$ is a good way to control ur no2 flow, i seen the controllers for 300$ and higher, youll make alot of power using no2 on that h22, i'd prob go with a higher 75 shot though

no1knows908

Well in a race or if you take it to a track on the weekend every RPM counts with a high revving motor, most of the power lives in the upper RPMs. I'm not using the window switch for high RPM launches, just as a failsafe in case something does happen. Just imagine your at the strip and your so focused on the clock and you get too excited and over rev a gear for some stupid reason. The fuel cutoff is there to protect the engine in that type of situation so you don't f up the head. Now take that same scenario and add nitrous... you hit the fuel cutoff but yet you still have an abundant supply of oxygen flowing in from the nitrous. Problem is when you hit the fuel cutoff the injectors shut down momentarily and you're only left with the fuel coming out of the nitrous nozzle. Talk about super lean... just asking for trouble.