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#1 | |||||
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Steinbach, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 46
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REAL 91 EG6 RHD |
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#2 |
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Member
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Transmission Removal
Special Tools Required Engine hanger support bar 07AAK-S5AA000 Engine hanger, A and Reds AART 1256 Subframe adapter, EQS-0ZACVC0 * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857 NOTE: Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces. Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first, then the positive (+) cable from the battery. Remove the battery. Remove the intake air duct. Remove the air cleaner housing. Disconnect the transmission ground cable(A), then remove the clutch line bracket (B). Carefully remove the slave cylinder so as not to bend the clutch line. Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed. Disconnect the starter motor cables (A). Disconnect the back-up light switch connector. Remove the starter motor. Remove the cable bracket (A), then disconnect the cables (B) from the top of the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together so as not to bend the cables. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector. Lift and support the engine with an hanger (A), and special tool. Remove the two upper transmission mounting bolts. Remove the transmission mount bracket (A) and transmission mounting bolt (B). Remove the front engine mount bracket mounting bolt. Remove the front engine mount. Raise vehicle and make sure it is securely supported. Drain transmission fluid with a shop towel covering the front and rear beams to catch any spilled fluid. Remove the splash shield. Remove exhaust pipe A. Remove the driveshafts. Remove the three bolts securing the transmission rear mount. Remove the transmission rear mount (A) and the transmission rear mount bracket (B). Support the front suspension subframe with the subframe adapter and a transmission jack. Make reference marks (A) front suspension subframe(B) and mounting bolts (C), then remove the front suspension subframe. Remove the engine stiffener (A), and clutch cover (B). Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and remove the three lower transmission mounting bolts. Pull the transmission away from the engine until the transmission mainshaft clears the clutch pressure plate, then lower transmission on the transmission jack. Remove the boot (A), the release fork (B), and the release bearing (C) from the transmission (D). Last edited by It Wasn't Me; 01-28-2009 at 11:09 PM. |
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#3 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bellevue, WA, United States
Posts: 64
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[quote=LatinEM2]Transmission Removal
Remove the three bolts securing the transmission rear mount. I just did this to day on my 01 4 door and you dont need to remove those three bolts you just leave the mont on the subframe when you drop it down. This whole thing sucked balls but now that i have done it I can do it fast. It took me all day today tho i had to miss work. I started at 9am and ended at 5pm. This was my first clutch replacement ever. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Nor Cal, CA, USA
Posts: 1,002
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dude latin are you pullin these DIY's off mitchell?
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#5 |
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Junior Member
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mitchell isnt nearly that detailed, probably alldata.
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'02 SSM EM2 D17A1.5 turbo (daily) 240 fwhp, 209 ft/lb tq @ 9.3 psi '91 toyota supra 7MGTE targa turbo (track) wouldn't you like to know ASE Certified Master Technician and Advanced Engine Performance Specialist (A1-A8, L1) |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Steinbach, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 46
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my buddy saw this and it helped, he also downloaded a service manual. thanks guys!
__________________
REAL 91 EG6 RHD |
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#7 | ||
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Quote:
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 499
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holy cow that seems nasty!
Is it absolutely required to have the honda support tool thingy? I have a friend that wants me to replace his clutch on his 2005 civic and I'm dreading it b/c of the huge amount of work that it might be. Doing the old civics was a cinch but these newer ones give me the heebie jeebies! |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 1,686
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Wow, that's a discouraging amount of work
My thrust bearing hisses quite a bit when in neutral .. as well as a hiss when I accelerate. I'm pretty sure I should be replacing my clutch soon (doesn't seem to slip though) I think I'll just have a shop do it Nice DIY though
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"He that blows the coals in quarrels that he has nothing to do with, has no right to complain if the sparks fly in his face." - Benjamin Franklin |
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#10 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bellevue, WA, United States
Posts: 64
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Quote:
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#11 |
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Junior Member
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I did one yesterday on an 01' civic EX. You don't have to drop the tranny completely. The sub frame is notched just enough so that you can wedge the tranny between the body and the frame. It doesn't leave a lot of room to get the clutch in and out but it can be done and it does save a lot of time. Good Luck man
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BeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwwssssssssssssssssT ~Favorite Sellers~ DS002 - (great service, super fast shipping,) http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/embeer.gif .Grimace - (A++ service, again fast shipping, great product) http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/embeer.gif IPat - (Fairly fast shipping, nice product for great price.) |
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#12 |
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Junior Member
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nice manaul. anything for an auto tranny? i'm unbolting mine to sell it
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301 WHP 210 ft/lb TORQUE 1 3 5 2 4 6 R |
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#13 | |
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Junior Member
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#14 | |
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 5
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Will an Exedy clutch kit make the shifter stiffer? or do I need something else? |
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#15 |
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Junior Member
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thats not a thrust bearing, thats a main input shaft bearing. cheap part, but you have to split the trans apart to replace it.
__________________
'02 SSM EM2 D17A1.5 turbo (daily) 240 fwhp, 209 ft/lb tq @ 9.3 psi '91 toyota supra 7MGTE targa turbo (track) wouldn't you like to know ASE Certified Master Technician and Advanced Engine Performance Specialist (A1-A8, L1) |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 1,686
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Hmm, well if it's nothing I need to worry about, then I'll replace it when my clutch goes out.
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"He that blows the coals in quarrels that he has nothing to do with, has no right to complain if the sparks fly in his face." - Benjamin Franklin |
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#17 |
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Junior Member
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its 100% mainshaft bearings , or input as some call them. the only one that gets bad is the engine end bearing of the mainshaft. its like 25 bucks. ive put in many. very common honda problem.
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#18 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: sholoh, il, St.Clair
Posts: 113
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would this write up be the same for an 03 lx civic?
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#19 | |
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Sanji
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Quote:
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#20 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: sholoh, il, St.Clair
Posts: 113
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hopefully the link works but do you think this clutch would be a good deal, its only 85 bucks pluss shiping, i dont know anything about clutches and i have to do the job myself cuz of lack of funds so this is pretty much my best option right now... but does it look good to use does it look like a real exedy? any coments are appretiated
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors....m245 |
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#21 | |
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Sanji
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Quote:
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#22 |
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Senior Member
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Daikin/Exedy are an OEM quality, made in Japan clutch. I just got done dropping the trans out of my wife's 2002. Took me 3 hours, first time doing one of these, I prefer to do EF's.
Her's has an input shaft bearing going out, same bearing as my 91 Si, go figure, good thing I have a spare on the shelf. While I have it out I'm tossing in a new clutch and rear main seal. Dropping the flywheel off on the way into work tomorrow, and then I have to split the case. Shift linkage appears easier to manage than the L3, but the transmissions share a lot of the same internal parts. HF 5th?? hmm...
__________________
Mark Wolfe 91 Civic Si SCCA #375 STS I can professionally chip ECU's, dual or single roms. |
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