aznwash3wboi

i read that the T-Belt is due for a change at 105K but now im at 111,111 miles... i just haven't had the money to do it... i will buy the parts this week and do it next week because its my spring break for college... has anyone ever gone past this mileage before doing their T-Belt? i know ill put at least another 200-300miles before i get around to it next week... im a lil scared ill baby it until then... right now i feel like buying a cheap autozone one and doing it tonight to hold me over til next week when i can get OEM belts, pump, and seals... crap... idk... i just have a bad feeling

chatman_55

I was told that your supposed to do it at 80k and i did mine at about 90.

goota

those are suggested service intervals, which usually should be followed. BUT if your money is tight I would suggest inspecting the belt and see if its needs replacing, by checking the wear on the teeth of the belt.

since youre over, i would check it. You could cheap out with autozone if you really need it after the inspection.

aznwash3wboi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chatman_55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told that your supposed to do it at 80k and i did mine at about 90.</TD></TR></TABLE> In my HELMS manual it says 105K, but i know 90K-105K is recommended

aznwash3wboi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goota &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those are suggested service intervals, which usually should be followed. BUT if your money is tight I would suggest inspecting the belt and see if its needs replacing, by checking the wear on the teeth of the belt.

since youre over, i would check it. You could cheap out with autozone if you really need it after the inspection. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya i think ill do that tonight... Id rather not cheap out on autozone and just wait... but i have a lot of driving to do this week... about 200-300 miles... ill let you know what i find when i put the valve cover off... thx

aznwash3wboi

i just took my valve cover off and looked at the belt... The teeth look great... they fit snugly into the cam sprockets with no room for play...and the belt looks fine to me... not frayed or anything like that... its really brown on top tho like its old... it has a little bit of a shine to it but its real subtle... im just hoping ill be okay for another week with 200-300 more miles of driving... now im gonna go put my valve cover back on

JReal

iTrader: (1)

its suggested every 100k/8 years.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznwash3wboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i read that the T-Belt is due for a change at 105K but now im at 111,111 miles... i just haven't had the money to do it... i will buy the parts this week and do it next week because its my spring break for college... has anyone ever gone past this mileage before doing their T-Belt? i know ill put at least another 200-300miles before i get around to it next week... im a lil scared ill baby it until then... right now i feel like buying a cheap autozone one and doing it tonight to hold me over til next week when i can get OEM belts, pump, and seals... crap... idk... i just have a bad feeling</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont need to sweat it that much. Dont worry about using the cheap autozone belt to hold you over. Just get the OEM stuff. They sell kits on ebay that are very well priced. I'm getting my stuff from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for $220 with a tensioner shipped to illinois. It's like 169 without the tensioner (with all drive belts).....but that's for an Si. If you can find an acura discount retailer online, try that. Or find out the acura part numbers and plug them into the hondaautomotiveparts website. The T belt is different. IIRC, the waterpump and drive belts are the same except for the power steering.

Mine has 107 on it. I'll do it when it gets slightly warmer and I have the time. Maybe in a week or two.

I used to have a D series that I beat the crap out of all the time. Road racing, over revving, etc. etc. I refused to change the belt and it snapped at like 128k (11 year old belt) with a lot of abuse. My friend has like 130ish on his Y8 and he doesn't wanna change the belt either. You can usually find a D series for less than the cost of the T belt, water pump, etc. I wouldn't worry about 111k unless you've been really beating on it or you drive it in a "severe" condition. AKA lots of heat.

aznwash3wboi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You dont need to sweat it that much. Dont worry about using the cheap autozone belt to hold you over. Just get the OEM stuff. They sell kits on ebay that are very well priced. I'm getting my stuff from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for $220 with a tensioner shipped to illinois. It's like 169 without the tensioner (with all drive belts).....but that's for an Si. If you can find an acura discount retailer online, try that. Or find out the acura part numbers and plug them into the hondaautomotiveparts website. The T belt is different. IIRC, the waterpump and drive belts are the same except for the power steering.

Mine has 107 on it. I'll do it when it gets slightly warmer and I have the time. Maybe in a week or two.

I used to have a D series that I beat the crap out of all the time. Road racing, over revving, etc. etc. I refused to change the belt and it snapped at like 128k (11 year old belt) with a lot of abuse. My friend has like 130ish on his Y8 and he doesn't wanna change the belt either. You can usually find a D series for less than the cost of the T belt, water pump, etc. I wouldn't worry about 111k unless you've been really beating on it or you drive it in a "severe" condition. AKA lots of heat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate you taking the time to tell me your previous T-Belt experiences... i took the valve cover off earlier and the belt looked fine although it obviously looked old and brown... not cracked or frayed at all... ill get the parts probably this week because i use to work at a dealership i still get an employee price on parts... yes i lie and still say i work for toyota even though i left over a year ago ... But that price at the website you gave me is pretty damn good... im just waiting to get the money so i can do my T-Belt this weekend... not my favorite job to do but i have to do it ASAP... i really appreciate your response, as now im not so worried because i don't beat on her much and i will try to refrain from hittin vtec until its changed haha

aznwash3wboi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You dont need to sweat it that much. Dont worry about using the cheap autozone belt to hold you over. Just get the OEM stuff. They sell kits on ebay that are very well priced. I'm getting my stuff from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for $220 with a tensioner shipped to illinois. It's like 169 without the tensioner (with all drive belts).....but that's for an Si. If you can find an acura discount retailer online, try that. Or find out the acura part numbers and plug them into the hondaautomotiveparts website. The T belt is different. IIRC, the waterpump and drive belts are the same except for the power steering.

Mine has 107 on it. I'll do it when it gets slightly warmer and I have the time. Maybe in a week or two.

I used to have a D series that I beat the crap out of all the time. Road racing, over revving, etc. etc. I refused to change the belt and it snapped at like 128k (11 year old belt) with a lot of abuse. My friend has like 130ish on his Y8 and he doesn't wanna change the belt either. You can usually find a D series for less than the cost of the T belt, water pump, etc. I wouldn't worry about 111k unless you've been really beating on it or you drive it in a "severe" condition. AKA lots of heat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate you taking the time to tell me your previous T-Belt experiences... i took the valve cover off earlier and the belt looked fine although it obviously looked old and brown... not cracked or frayed at all... ill get the parts probably this week because i use to work at a dealership i still get an employee price on parts... yes i lie and still say i work for toyota even though i left over a year ago ... But that price at the website you gave me is pretty damn good... im just waiting to get the money so i can do my T-Belt this weekend... not my favorite job to do but i have to do it ASAP... i really appreciate your response, as now im not so worried because i don't beat on her much and i will try to refrain from hittin vtec until its changed haha

aznwash3wboi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You dont need to sweat it that much. Dont worry about using the cheap autozone belt to hold you over. Just get the OEM stuff. They sell kits on ebay that are very well priced. I'm getting my stuff from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for $220 with a tensioner shipped to illinois. It's like 169 without the tensioner (with all drive belts).....but that's for an Si. If you can find an acura discount retailer online, try that. Or find out the acura part numbers and plug them into the hondaautomotiveparts website. The T belt is different. IIRC, the waterpump and drive belts are the same except for the power steering.

Mine has 107 on it. I'll do it when it gets slightly warmer and I have the time. Maybe in a week or two.

I used to have a D series that I beat the crap out of all the time. Road racing, over revving, etc. etc. I refused to change the belt and it snapped at like 128k (11 year old belt) with a lot of abuse. My friend has like 130ish on his Y8 and he doesn't wanna change the belt either. You can usually find a D series for less than the cost of the T belt, water pump, etc. I wouldn't worry about 111k unless you've been really beating on it or you drive it in a "severe" condition. AKA lots of heat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate you taking the time to tell me your previous T-Belt experiences... i took the valve cover off earlier and the belt looked fine although it obviously looked old and brown... not cracked or frayed at all... ill get the parts probably this week because i use to work at a dealership i still get an employee price on parts... yes i lie and still say i work for toyota even though i left over a year ago ... But that price at the website you gave me is pretty damn good... im just waiting to get the money so i can do my T-Belt this weekend... not my favorite job to do but i have to do it ASAP... i really appreciate your response, as now im not so worried because i don't beat on her much and i will try to refrain from hittin vtec until its changed haha

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznwash3wboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes i lie and still say i work for toyota even though i left over a year ago </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol that's hilarious. I used to do the same thing. I said I worked for toyota for so long and it worked for so long. I'd even wear a dealership T shirt so they wouldn't ask me for a pay stub. I got REAL lucky once. I went to a dealership looking to pay full price, and the service manager from Toyota was there. I struck up a convo with him and the guy behind the desk believed that I worked at the dealership still lol.

MeanGreenMachine

my brother is the 3rd owner of a 94 integra, he bought it with 188k miles. the previous owner had the t belt changed at about 80k miles. the t belt snapped on my brother while he was on the hwy and the odometer at that time read 197k. luckily none of the valve were bent. i just installed a new water pump and timing belt from carquest auto parts, and everything is running good.

i thought about replacing the timing belt tensioner, but after speaking with an experienced acura technician, he said its RECOMMENDED, but you dont have to because it lasts a long time.

be18see1

id just do it. i just replaced my girlfriend's belts and water pump with napa replacements. i think i paid like 95 dollars for all the parts and it took me about 4 hours by myself.

aznwash3wboi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol that's hilarious. I used to do the same thing. I said I worked for toyota for so long and it worked for so long. I'd even wear a dealership T shirt so they wouldn't ask me for a pay stub. I got REAL lucky once. I went to a dealership looking to pay full price, and the service manager from Toyota was there. I struck up a convo with him and the guy behind the desk believed that I worked at the dealership still lol.</TD></TR></TABLE> haha ya... most the people at the honda dealer and acura in my area still know me as working at toyota... even the aftermarket places toyota gets parts from like carquest etc still think i work there... i think now its at the point where if they even knew i didnt work there anymore they would still give me employee rates... at least i think so haha... but i just go with the flow... if they wanna call toyota and check, my old manager got my back sounds like you lucked out there haha... way to go keeping the employee rates rollin'! do what you gotta do to keep it haha

aznwash3wboi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MeanGreenMachine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my brother is the 3rd owner of a 94 integra, he bought it with 188k miles. the previous owner had the t belt changed at about 80k miles. the t belt snapped on my brother while he was on the hwy and the odometer at that time read 197k. luckily none of the valve were bent. i just installed a new water pump and timing belt from carquest auto parts, and everything is running good.

i thought about replacing the timing belt tensioner, but after speaking with an experienced acura technician, he said its RECOMMENDED, but you dont have to because it lasts a long time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
crap... sound like mine could go any minute now reading your story... praying to last another week cuz im going to do it next sunday!

usually when i do T-belts on other peoples hondas i dont replace the tensioner, but mines making noise... at least i think its the tensioner

SkaiWu

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznwash3wboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
crap... sound like mine could go any minute now reading your story... praying to last another week cuz im going to do it next sunday!

usually when i do T-belts on other peoples hondas i dont replace the tensioner, but mines making noise... at least i think its the tensioner</TD></TR></TABLE>

it will go soon?
you said the teeth were good

what else looks bad besides the browning?

turboteggsr

i did mine at 60k.

im at 80k miles now, ill probably do it at 90 or 100k since its not a bad job.

MeanGreenMachine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznwash3wboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
crap... sound like mine could go any minute now reading your story... praying to last another week cuz im going to do it next sunday!

usually when i do T-belts on other peoples hondas i dont replace the tensioner, but mines making noise... at least i think its the tensioner</TD></TR></TABLE>

when i pulled my brothers car apart and saw the torn timing belt, it was way overdue, the outside of the t-belt looked fine, but if u looked real closely, you would be able to see small cracks. flip it over and look at the teeth, you would have seen cracks on it as well, it was wayyyy over due.....

When the belt snapped on my brother it was kind of unexpected, he was just cruising at your regular city speeds, bout 30mph and then all of a sudden it just lost power and when he came to a dead stop, he cranked it over and all you would hear was the starter winding. So immediately I assumed the timing belt, but to verify my theory I pulled off the distributor cap, had him crank it over and I watched the rotor to see if it would move, it didn’t.

happynoodleboy

Im at 189000 heh, i guess Ill ride it till it snaps.

MeanGreenMachine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by happynoodleboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im at 189000 heh, i guess Ill ride it till it snaps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can do that, but it is risky. my brother got lucky and when his t belt snapped, none of the valves bent....ive known of some instances where it has happened to others and they werent so lucky and their valves were bent.....

happynoodleboy

im looking for an excuse for a rebuild anyway , the only sacrifice would be my pistons if they smacked against my valves.

DOHCter VTEC

for the OP: You can also get a timing belt kit for about $115 from yoparts.com. I forgot the link but look up Tom Masiero from yoparts.com. He has a post around here somewhere that sells timing belt kits for all hondas I believe.

I just ordered mine from him two weeks ago and got it last week

Avenged7x

My belt didnt break but actually got the teeth ripped out at 95,000 on my 2000 ls. No internal damage, but had to get it towed home =P

B serious

iTrader: (1)

lol everyone is so worried about this. Think about it, guys. Really the only way to determine the absolute interval on a timing belt is to wait till it breaks. However, since Honda designed the car to be reliable, wouldn't you think that they would have relatively conservative mileage intervals for maintainence?

You think that there was NO margin of safety measured in for the stock 105k interval on the belt? The car is about 7 years old and has 111k. The belt lasts around 7 years or 105k miles. Oil changes are recommended at 3750miles for severe habits. You think that if you drive 3900 miles, you'll cause severe engine damage? no. There's a safety margin built in.

Stop worrying about it. Order the RIGHT belt from honda (the one that is designed to last 105k with a safety margin), buy the rest of the high quality OEM parts....and just wait to get them and do it.

If you've been beating the crap out of your car this whole time and the belt sees a lot of heat or oil is leaking on it...worry about it. Otherwise, just relax. You're only 6k over on a 105k part. 6k is only 5.7% of 105k.

Get the right parts soon. Do it then. Dont rush into buying inferior parts and doing it twice.