Those of you with enclosed car trailers...?s for ya...

[AllMotorMark]

Originally Posted by Boostwerks.com "if you are just a bit off on your measurements you could be looking at a 2500 peice of crap that will pull to one side or sling the car from side to side untill it flips you and the trailor in to the ditch. so think even if you do it for 2500, would it be worth it..." Huh. After a statement like that, I somehow felt the need to defend my self. So...If you've built a trailer, and owned a couple...why is it so hard to simply address my questions instead of telling me to "buy one". 50% of the cost is in the axle assembilies. The aluminum sheeting I can get a wholesale price at a local semi repair shop. Simply building a "roof" won't throw my cost out the window. I actually asked last night, and started on the design this morning. I asked questions that pertain to the DESIGN of the trailer. however, no one here (with the exeption of a few, and my thread in the RR forum) has actually even addressed the questions. lol...yup. You got me. So are you going to actually help???...or simply defend your avatar? Thats great! However...<FONT SIZE="8">I'm NOT looking to BUY ONE!</FONT> And especially not adding compound interest upon the price. Did I mention that in the first post? Unless I can find a complete, well built trailer with new parts for under $1500 I won't be buying one. My time is important to me as well. However, I'm also a person who LIKES to build. I have no problem with spending the time to build it right. Now... Is anyone here actually going to help with my questions? I thought this would be a good forum to ask this in, since a lot of drag guys use single car trailers...Or is this forum simply for shit talking? i wasn't commenting on your abilities , i was just saying that is a risk, so your budget is now $1500 i just really don't see how you can do it, , at this point my issue is not building the trailer its totally due-able. the problem is the budget. listen i am not trying to say you can't because i am sure you can its just your budget isn't realistic if you list what you are going to buy then maybe i can correct a bit of your budget, if that will help you. the trailers i have had were all open

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[redzcstandardhatch]

i'm quite surprised by the replies here.. i'll copy/paste my reply to this same post in RR/AX

-my little brother has built a few huge trailers for us.. one is actually a mobile showroom/store that we use at trade shows, etc (custom doors/decorative glass, etc.)

i'd suggest going around and peeking at trailer dealers for a while. there is a lot of GARBAGE trailers out there. we basically looked at what we hated about the past 4 (smaller, 20-16 foot trailers) we've used/still use, and made everything effective yet heavy duty.

i'd over-axle the trailer by a bit. on our two big trailer (both over 30 feet) we actually have Dexter Torflex axles with HUGE hydraulic disc brakes and an electric master cylinder. electric drums generally suck ass (but are and have been standard equipment FOREVER)

i've got 60k on my one trailer, and once we sorted out the brake bleeding problems (4 pistons, and 2 pistons werent being bled, due to gravity basically) i loved the brake setup. all i've had to do is lube the axles once.

i'd also over build the deck by a bit, and make it as low as possible.. i'd make the deck most of the structure, and make the walls rigid yet lightweight. we actually use 50-thousandths (i think) semi-trailer sheet metal (vs. 30 thousandths lightweight trailer metal).. and 3M double sided structural tape (UBER heavy duty, and uber expensive, but NO RIVETs and JUST AS TOUGH) thicker sheet=stronger, no dents, and better looking..especially with no rivits. ASSLOADS OF COMPLIMENTS ("man, thats a nice looking rig!", stuff like that)


-there are many ways of building a trailer. precision is the key to making it pull straight, and axle placement is the key to good pulling/tongue weight. overbuilding a bit is a good idea, as many "NAME BRAND" trailers seem to be build to their limits, from what we seen. a haulmark we have is basically falling apart around itself.. its complete garbage. simply going out and buying one might be fine, but there are a lot of garbage trailers out there.

maybe i'm just too used to using my nice trailer (i dont pull any of our wells cargos or haulmarks much anymore, but didnt like them much when i did).

bryson will easily build a wonderful trailer. i know he can do it. will it cost more than he imagined? maybe.

haulmark quoted us 35,000$ to build the trailer i pull. we saw the plans and it would have been kinda underbuilt. we spent a few months researching it. we built a much better rig for 12,000$. it rules.

[AllMotorMark]

sounds like you did it right , i just think when people saw $1000 for an enclosed they figure that he really hasn't thought this through, and thats why he got some people jumping on him

[redzcstandardhatch]

of course he'll spend more than 1k... but you can really save money on them, and building them is kinda fun , because they are so simple.

bryson, you'll just wanna figure out exactly where the weight is on the car, where it'll be when its loaded on the trailer. you want a bit more weight on the tongue, but you dont wanna overload it.

single axle or dual?

[AllMotorMark]

here if your hauling a car legally it has to be dual axle, but an enclosed car hauler i think has to be dual. especially the size he wants it

[redzcstandardhatch]

yeah, i'd imagine its gonna be a dual..

[DaveF]

lets see the trailor you speak of

[redzcstandardhatch]

i speak of?

i'll take some pics.. the two that he built are absolutely amazing

[DaveF]

ill be waitin !

[*Boostwerks*]

Originally Posted by redzcstandardhatch

yeah, i'd imagine its gonna be a dual..

Definetly dual. Right now I'm thinking twin 3500# torsion axles with electric drums. I found them for $275 each with brakes.

Originally Posted by redzcstandardhatch

of course he'll spend more than 1k... but you can really save money on them, and building them is kinda fun , because they are so simple.

bryson, you'll just wanna figure out exactly where the weight is on the car, where it'll be when its loaded on the trailer. you want a bit more weight on the tongue, but you dont wanna overload it.

single axle or dual?

Yeah, like I mentioned earlier (some people in this thread can't read) that my $1,000 was simply a rough expense estimate (not a budget) from the parts that I've found. I'm 100% sure I'll spend more than that, but I'm also 100% sure I won't spend even 1/2 as much on mine compared to a similar pre-built trailer.

I'll definetly do the weight calculations to figure out the proper COG and balance.

I'd also like to mention that I'm going to look into getting a used open trailer that I can rebuild, and add a top too. If I have to spend a little bit more to do this I'll definetly do it to save some hassle. However, if I can't get a decent price advantage, I'll just build one from scratch.

[SpeedSceneScott]

Okay, here is some feedback that does not address the build it/buy it issue.
Build it bigger than you need. Yes, you need room to get down on the floor and strap it down.
I like E rails, but D rings work just fine. 2 in front and two in back. Use heavy ratchet strap downs.
Also, later you will want to put in a generator, maybe a pit bike, more stuff. Allow some extra room for the stuff. A CRX is very short so you can build it bigger and still have a small trailer.
Good electric brakes on all axles.
If you have a choice, build it as light as possible. Heavy is a bummer when towing.
Side door? Hell yeah, its a must. You dont want to have to drop the big heavy ramp door in the back just to get a screwdriver or put ice in the cooler. I have an extra wide side door on mine.

I have towed for years and currently have a 42 foot enclosed that I use to tow two cars in it.
Will get a stacker trailer next.

[4piston]

24 feet with our Insight, tools, and spares is doable but tight. I wouldn't do anything smaller than that.

I also have to question your cost estimate a little. I just put new brakes and tires on this trailer and that alone was over $1000 for brakes and 4 tires and wheels. You have to have a tandem axle and you can't put cheap tires on a trailer. Trailer tires live a hard life. I paid $125 per tire/wheel for Goodyear Marathons.

Just materials to build something large enough with tandems and electric brakes I think would cost you $3000+. You want to use a hat channel style framework up top and the frame and floor on these is not joke. There is a lot of steel there. I've replaced a sheet panel on the side before myself, and that wasn't cheap either. Frame, 5500lb axles w/ electric brakes, tires and wheels, upper hat channel, insulation, lights, interior panels, exterior panels....you might as well spend the $4500-5500 for a strippo base model.

Then there is making it actually look good. For $1500 is won't look to nice. They sell those things super cheap with low margins...like 20% and they are buying materials by the shipload.

Good luck.

[4piston]

Actually...email me @ vtecluke99@aol.com

I got hit by a semi last night and I'm trashing the trailer. The frame is in tact and it has new brakes, tires, etc. I'll sell the whole thing cheaper than you can buy axles.

[AllMotorMark]

ouch , i assume your ok, hope there wasn't a car in there.

ya your gonna need more the 3500 axles,

4pistons trailer may be a great way to start, because building it yourself you'd be looking at 3000 even then i don't think you could do it.

see the problem with your post is your original estimate was so low people were getting on your case because even though you said you looked into it , it seemed you hadn't. but if your willing to spend 3000-5000 then i say go for it, but maybe if you get 4piston's you could do it for cheap

[4piston]

Thank goodness there was no car in there. I would be in bad shape had that been the case. It really makes you think about race car insurance...but who the hell can afford that. I think I was quoted like $50,000 a year...LOL!

[AllMotorMark]

wow your lucky i have seen a guys trailer get hit and destroy the trailer the car in the trailer and the tow vehicle.

[gitwidit]

Make sure you build your trailer with downdraft and filtered ceiling because painting your car in the trailer is the new thing

Building it on your own is totally feasible if you want to research and take the time and $$$ to do it right. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do

Glad your ok Luke

[*Boostwerks*]

Originally Posted by SpeedSceneScott

Okay, here is some feedback that does not address the build it/buy it issue.
Build it bigger than you need. Yes, you need room to get down on the floor and strap it down.
I like E rails, but D rings work just fine. 2 in front and two in back. Use heavy ratchet strap downs.
Also, later you will want to put in a generator, maybe a pit bike, more stuff. Allow some extra room for the stuff. A CRX is very short so you can build it bigger and still have a small trailer.
Good electric brakes on all axles.
If you have a choice, build it as light as possible. Heavy is a bummer when towing.
Side door? Hell yeah, its a must. You dont want to have to drop the big heavy ramp door in the back just to get a screwdriver or put ice in the cooler. I have an extra wide side door on mine.

I have towed for years and currently have a 42 foot enclosed that I use to tow two cars in it.
Will get a stacker trailer next.

THANK YOU!

Right now I'm looking at about 20'. It'll be more than long enough for my needs. It'll definetly have brakes on all 4 wheels. Good point on the side door.

Originally Posted by 4piston

24 feet with our Insight, tools, and spares is doable but tight. I wouldn't do anything smaller than that.

I also have to question your cost estimate a little. I just put new brakes and tires on this trailer and that alone was over $1000 for brakes and 4 tires and wheels. You have to have a tandem axle and you can't put cheap tires on a trailer. Trailer tires live a hard life. I paid $125 per tire/wheel for Goodyear Marathons.

Just materials to build something large enough with tandems and electric brakes I think would cost you $3000+. You want to use a hat channel style framework up top and the frame and floor on these is not joke. There is a lot of steel there. I've replaced a sheet panel on the side before myself, and that wasn't cheap either. Frame, 5500lb axles w/ electric brakes, tires and wheels, upper hat channel, insulation, lights, interior panels, exterior panels....you might as well spend the $4500-5500 for a strippo base model.

Then there is making it actually look good. For $1500 is won't look to nice. They sell those things super cheap with low margins...like 20% and they are buying materials by the shipload.

Good luck.

Why would I need 11,000lbs worth of axle...for a grand total weight of less than 4000lbs? For one...I don't need insulation, lights, or interior panels. An inner frame structure with semi truck grade aluminum sheeting will be more than enough for my needs.

I don't know what you guys are thinking, but I am by no means a factory backed pro team looking to tour the country with an entire third world country on board . I simply want to be able to go to the 2 or 3 tracks here in colorado ( ) without the worry of having to pay for a tow back if I happen to break anything. Having an enclosed trailer will simply allow me to protect it against the elements. However...Just because I'm not going to spend a lot, I don't build ugly.

Originally Posted by gitwidit

Make sure you build your trailer with downdraft and filtered ceiling because painting your car in the trailer is the new thing

Building it on your own is totally feasible if you want to research and take the time and $$$ to do it right. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do

Glad your ok Luke

lol. I'm definetly not going to spend 50K on a baller trailer like it's going out of style, but at the same time I'm also not white trash enough to paint anything inside a trailer. lol

[AllMotorMark]

20 ft is gonna be real tight to do what you want , but if thats as big as you can have then you will have to deal with what space is left. the axles need to be that heavy duty because each axle may not be taking on equal amounts of load. also please don't skimp on the axles you need bigger then 3500lb. also you are thinking too much about what you need now. what if you need to haul another car, a domestic that weighs 3500lbs or more....just something to think about.

my suggestion is if your going to build a 20ft trailer build an open one , an enclosed 20ft actual length is gonna be real tight