spun Vtec

Ok I just got done with my rear trailing arm bushing swap. I was unsure if i needed this tool everyone seems to use, but i have a press so I decided not to get the tool.

I took the trailing arms off the car. (only took about 15 min each side).
I used the press to push the old bushing out (it seemed like it was under alot of pressure when I pushed it out from the top)(the rotor facing up) and to push the new back into place.
I didnt get it clocked just right so I grabbed a hammer and hit it from behind (rotor
facing down)thinking it wouldnt budge it because the press seemed to struggle to get it out. and low and behold a few hits and it pushed right back out. I reclocked it and pounded it back in from the top (about 10 or so hits) and I was done.

Thinking that it couldnt be this easy without the tool or the press I tryed the other trailing arm (keep in mind these trailing arms were taken from a crx with 150,000+ of salty pa winters) to see if i could do the same. It only took 3 hard hits with an average sized hammer to pop the old torn bushing out from the backside.
I flipped it over and it took about 10 hits (rh side, lh side, rh, lh...) and it was in place.

Has anyone else ever tried this technique?? I was shocked when it was this easy because every how to ive ever heard said you needed to have a press or the "tool"

Also note when taking the arm off the car leave the break line's on the caliper and remove the caliper from the arm. This will save the brakes from needing bled.

Targa250R

I've never heard anyone claiming you need to use a press. I've never seen anyone installing or removing TA bushings with anything but a hammer or the extractor tool (myself included).

The entire point of the special tool is to get the bushings in and out of the trailing arms while they are still attached to the car. If you're taking the arms off of the car, there is no point in acquiring the tool.

You were lucky that you didn't have to deal with any seized or broken suspension bolts. Not everyone can be so fortunate.

spun Vtec

I dont think many people know you can just take them off the car and use a hammer just as easy as doing them on the car with the tool. I would rather take all the bolts out, clean them and antiseaze them. That way you dont run into problems down the road.

Chances are that somone replacing the trailing arm bushing that they already have done the other bushings and that they dont have any seazed bolts. Taking the arm off was very easy.

I guess drum brakes would be a PITA.

Nisif

I'm planning to replace these bushings on a 92 integra, in which the extractor tool doesn't fit. You mentioned that you just hammered the bushings out. What portion of the bushing did you hammer out?


Or did you have something that mated up flush with the sleeve and hammered on that?

sorrule

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nisif &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm planning to replace these bushings on a 92 integra, in which the extractor tool doesn't fit. You mentioned that you just hammered the bushings out. What portion of the bushing did you hammer out?


Or did you have something that mated up flush with the sleeve and hammered on that?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wondering the same thing, but I would guess it probably used like a punch or pry bar around the edge. I would guess the rubber could rip if hit too hard if it's not already ripped thus why it's being replaced. About clocking it. How would you know exactly which position to clock it so that it would be correct when there is a load on it like as if the car was in it's original stance?

spun Vtec

I pounded on the rim of the bushing, a few wacks and out they come.


Everything I had read had mentioned the press tool, I bet that you could even use this method wilr the arm is on the car. Even if not its not hard to remove the arm from the car. IMO its better than $100+ for the tool.

sorrule

I would think torching around the bushing and the hammering would be easier than using the tool

rally25rs

When I did the TA bushings on my '87 Civic, I just torched them out. Of course, I had the benefit of the entire rear axle being out of the car...

swoyEKr.

Press FTW.. Because hammer's are primitive and non baller

spun Vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swoyEKr. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Press FTW.. Because hammer's are primitive and non baller</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did the first side with the press and the second side with a hammer, side with press took 30 min. Side with hammer took 5 min.

gabebauman

I tried this hammer method at first when I had a spare rta laying around and I didn't have any luck so I purchased the Xtractor and it worked magical. The one thing I'd be worried about with the hammer method would be not getting the bushings in straight. That is what the press or xtractor does.

Nisif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I pounded on the rim of the bushing, a few wacks and out they come.


Everything I had read had mentioned the press tool, I bet that you could even use this method wilr the arm is on the car. Even if not its not hard to remove the arm from the car. IMO its better than $100+ for the tool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I went ahead and used a hammer to pound out the old rtas. It took a little effort but i had them out within 10 minutes or so.

How did all of you clock your rear trailing arm bushings? My car is lowered roughly 2 inches, and it would be easier for me to install the rtas while the trailing arm is still off of the car.

gabebauman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nisif &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did all of you clock your rear trailing arm bushings? My car is lowered roughly 2 inches, and it would be easier for me to install the rtas while the trailing arm is still off of the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You should have marked the trailing ams with the old bushing before you removed them from the car.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1589298

Nisif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabebauman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You should have marked the trailing ams with the old bushing before you removed them from the car.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1589298</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did. However, I'm not reusing the original civic rear traling arms that are on my car. Instead I'm using a set of DA integra rtas and the rear disc brakes. I wanted to replace the all the components, rear wheel bearings, pads, rotors, and the rta bushings while the integra rta is off the car so I can just bolt it right up.

Btw, thanks for the link.

92civicfreak

i need to do this... but a shop wants 200+ to doit & i can get a 6 ton press for 90... would i need anything else for the press like dyes???

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicfreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i need to do this... but a shop wants 200+ to doit & i can get a 6 ton press for 90... would i need anything else for the press like dyes???</TD></TR></TABLE>
A) You don't need a press.

B) If you're going to buy a press, buying a 6-ton unit is pointless. If you're going to spend that much, you might as well spend some more and buy one that will actually be useful for other things in the future . . .

92civicfreak

ok then wha about the 12 ton for 110... and i have 90-93 integra trailing arms... now what? i also dont have a torch

Targa250R

You don't need a press or a torch (well, you won't need a torch unless you have seized bolts).

All you need is a hammer.

92civicfreak

i guess i willtry this on my stock ones & then go ahead to see if it is easy

MSchu

Watch the clocking of the bushing when your are HAMMERING to get it back in.

bakertime

iTrader: (1)

Tried this with terrible luck...just rent the tool from someone. I got the old ones out, but couldn't get the new ones in at ALL. So now I'm waiting for the tool before I can drive my car.

JOE BD-0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bakertime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tried this with terrible luck...just rent the tool from someone. I got the old ones out, but couldn't get the new ones in at ALL. So now I'm waiting for the tool before I can drive my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you put the new one's in the freezer for awhile, they will shrink a little and will go in much easier. good luck..

Baller=saving the money from buying the tool......

sorrule

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOE BD-0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you put the new one's in the freezer for awhile, they will shrink a little and will go in much easier. good luck..

Baller=saving the money from buying the tool......</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great idea, or if you have a propane torch, you can heat up the trailing arm so it'll expand. Freezing idea might be better so you don't run the risk of burning yourself.

bakertime

iTrader: (1)

That is a great idea, thanks man. I just rented the tool from a guy on hondacivicforum.com $40 total cost all said and done, so it's not too bad. I appreciate the suggestions!

dallison

i guess keeping these on dry ice would help even more