DIY: 11.1" brakes on DX knuckles at long last!!!
01-29-2008, 07:56 AM
#1
DIY: 11.1" brakes on DX knuckles at long last!!!
DIY: 11.1" Brakes on Civic DX knuckles. No need for EX or Integra knuckles!
This applies for:
1988-2000 Honda Civic DX LX VX HX CX models
1988-1995 Honda Civic Si without ABS (9.5" front brakes)
This will also work for any 88-00 Civic or 90-01 Integra that has DX Civic knuckles on it (9.5" brakes).
As some of you may have known, I'm nuts about brakes. Problem is that DX (and CX, LX, etc) with the 9.5” front brakes have a different shaped steering knuckle; the mounting tabs for the brakes are pulled in closer, so all of the brake options available for the big 4x100 hubs on the EX knuckles(which are a LOT of options) are not going to work on the DX knuckles. Well after enough testing and screwing with parts, I found out that the only upgrade you can put on DX knuckles was 10.3" brakes and ITR calipers. Well now I've figured out how to have the full 11.1" rotors on!
PRELUDE: This will cover how to convert your front 9.5" Honda brakes on the 88-00 Civic non-EX models into 11.1" CL front brakes. This upgrade will improve your braking performance. This setup offers a larger sweeping area, a very strong caliper, much larger pad, increased brake torque over a larger disc rotor, increased resistance to fade, and Honda reliability. This setup uses stock knuckles and stock brake hoses. If you are getting a kit from BrakeExpert, the modifications have been made and it is a bolt on uograde.
NECESSARY MODIFICATION: The rotors must be redrilled to 4x100 and custom aluminum rotor centering rings will be needed to ensure there is no radial vibration.. These redrilled rotors are safe because the lug stud holes have no sideways force exerted on them. The pressure from the lug nuts transfers throughout the whole face of the rotor's hat. The rotor is centered on the hub and the lug holes are there only to allow the studs to go through the rotor's hat and wheel's lug holes. The lug studs will not touch the rotor at all.
The rotors are a bit too tall and will hit the bracket when new. The bracket must be milled at the back where the knuckle mounting tabs are. Because this affects the caliper's contact angle, this machine work must be parallel like stock. A milling machine is required with a dial indicatior to ensure the cuts are each made the same depth to within .001". The brackets will not work stock, they will not bolt up to the knuckle and the hangar will lightly rub on the rotor's hat. The bracket should have a notch grinded at the backside to prevent it from hitting the knuckle. It should also be grinded carefully on the underside of the hangar to prevent this rubbing. I reccomend painting or coating this part to prevent any possibility of rust causing weakening over long periods of time. Also, since this is a custom setup and fitment is very tight, the retainer clips must be modified to have the part in the bracket's throat removed. This should be done with the proper dremel or metal cutting jig-saw very carefully. This is spring steel, which is difficult to cut, so be careful as a mis cut can cause the metal to break or crack in the middle.
Tools: 17mm wrench, 14mm wrench, 12mm wrench, phillips screwdriver, 19mm deep socket, socket wrench, 10mm wrench, torque wrench, rags, 10mm brake line wrench (optional), impact wrench (optional), ball scratcher (optional.)
INSTALLATION:
Ok so heres what's involved. 03 Acura CL front calipers, brackets and pads, 96 Prelude VTEC rotors, rotor centering rings, and machine work.
You will need access to a machine shop to make this work, or PM me (BrakeExpert) and I can take care of it for you.
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Engage e-brake and put the car in Park or first. Jack up the nose of car and put the car on jackstands in the front.
3. Unbolt the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Break the rotor retainer screws loose with the impact wrench. This may not be necessary if your screws are not rusted or you used anti-seize, but may be needed on older cars.
5. Remove the banjo bolt that connects the brake hose to the caliper. Now it gets messy, remember not to touch your car's paint with brake fluid on your hands.
6. Remove the 17mm bolts that hold the caliper to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper.
7. Place the rotor centering ring on the hub.
8. Place the 11.1" rotor on the hub and use a lug nut to keep it in place.
9. Bolt the CL caliper with its brackets and pads onto the knuckle and torque the 17mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
10. Bolt the brake hose onto the caliper and torque to 30lb-ft if reusing your old crush washers. I reccomend new ones every time, but the old ones can get a second use if you overtighten just a bit (don't exceed 35lb-ft, you don't want to mess up these threads.
11. Pump the brake pedal enough to get the pads to clamp the rotor. The pedal will be soft since there is air in the system because it hasn't been bled yet.
12. Remove the lug nut and put the wheel on. Torque your lug nuts to 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels, 80lb-ft for steel wheels.
13. Do the same for the other side.
14. If you are upgrading the master cylinder, remove the MC by unbolting the 10mm bolts on the hardlines with a brake line wrench and then the 12mm bolts from the brake booster.
15. Bench bleed the master cylinder. If you are lazy and don't mind making a mess, fill the resovoir with brake fluid with the new MC out of the car. Use a screwdriver to push into the cylinder bore(EK/98+ Teg) or press on the piston if this is an EG/94-97 Teg. Do this about 6 times, fluid will gush out of the two holes.
16. Install the master cylinder onto the brake booster and tighten the 12mm bolts and then tighten the 10mm brake line bolts.
17. Your brakes are on. The new brakes must be bled. Use either a factory service manual for bleeding procedures, or check online for a standard bleeding procedure on hydraulic brakes. The proper bleeding order for Civics/Integras is Right Rear, then Left Front, then Left Rear, then Right Front. This is because of the crossed brake system; do not go by the method of fartest to closest (to the master cylinder). I reccomend bleeding the whole car, however if you are not changing the master cylinder (and you do not have ABS), you can bleed just the front brakes, however I reccomend bleeding all 4 brakes anyway.
18. Bleed the brakes.
19. Your brakes are on! Ensure the pedal can stop the car by removing the bricks, releasing the e-brake, and moving the car slightly. Stop the car with the pedal, if it does not stop, use the e-brake and check the brake system for bubbles by bleeding the car again.
20. Brake in your new brakes pads by standard brake pad brake in procedure. I reccomend finding an empty straightaway. Get the car upto 50mph and hit the brakes lightly, slowing the car to 10mph, but not to a complete stop. Do this about ten times, not giving your brakes time to cool in between. Your brakes will be pretty warm afterwards, so find a place to stop the car and let the brakes cool to under 100 degrees if possible.
21. Enjoy having stronger than Type-R brakes without having to source and install new steering knuckles! Enjoy having the ability to stop your car at high speeds without fading all the time!
The end result will look like this:
by BrakeExpert
Feel free to ask any questions or IM me if you need parts/machining for this setup.
(This setup is for sale, PM me if interested as this isn't a FS thread.)
This applies for:
1988-2000 Honda Civic DX LX VX HX CX models
1988-1995 Honda Civic Si without ABS (9.5" front brakes)
This will also work for any 88-00 Civic or 90-01 Integra that has DX Civic knuckles on it (9.5" brakes).
As some of you may have known, I'm nuts about brakes. Problem is that DX (and CX, LX, etc) with the 9.5” front brakes have a different shaped steering knuckle; the mounting tabs for the brakes are pulled in closer, so all of the brake options available for the big 4x100 hubs on the EX knuckles(which are a LOT of options) are not going to work on the DX knuckles. Well after enough testing and screwing with parts, I found out that the only upgrade you can put on DX knuckles was 10.3" brakes and ITR calipers. Well now I've figured out how to have the full 11.1" rotors on!
PRELUDE: This will cover how to convert your front 9.5" Honda brakes on the 88-00 Civic non-EX models into 11.1" CL front brakes. This upgrade will improve your braking performance. This setup offers a larger sweeping area, a very strong caliper, much larger pad, increased brake torque over a larger disc rotor, increased resistance to fade, and Honda reliability. This setup uses stock knuckles and stock brake hoses. If you are getting a kit from BrakeExpert, the modifications have been made and it is a bolt on uograde.
NECESSARY MODIFICATION: The rotors must be redrilled to 4x100 and custom aluminum rotor centering rings will be needed to ensure there is no radial vibration.. These redrilled rotors are safe because the lug stud holes have no sideways force exerted on them. The pressure from the lug nuts transfers throughout the whole face of the rotor's hat. The rotor is centered on the hub and the lug holes are there only to allow the studs to go through the rotor's hat and wheel's lug holes. The lug studs will not touch the rotor at all.
The rotors are a bit too tall and will hit the bracket when new. The bracket must be milled at the back where the knuckle mounting tabs are. Because this affects the caliper's contact angle, this machine work must be parallel like stock. A milling machine is required with a dial indicatior to ensure the cuts are each made the same depth to within .001". The brackets will not work stock, they will not bolt up to the knuckle and the hangar will lightly rub on the rotor's hat. The bracket should have a notch grinded at the backside to prevent it from hitting the knuckle. It should also be grinded carefully on the underside of the hangar to prevent this rubbing. I reccomend painting or coating this part to prevent any possibility of rust causing weakening over long periods of time. Also, since this is a custom setup and fitment is very tight, the retainer clips must be modified to have the part in the bracket's throat removed. This should be done with the proper dremel or metal cutting jig-saw very carefully. This is spring steel, which is difficult to cut, so be careful as a mis cut can cause the metal to break or crack in the middle.
Tools: 17mm wrench, 14mm wrench, 12mm wrench, phillips screwdriver, 19mm deep socket, socket wrench, 10mm wrench, torque wrench, rags, 10mm brake line wrench (optional), impact wrench (optional), ball scratcher (optional.)
INSTALLATION:
Ok so heres what's involved. 03 Acura CL front calipers, brackets and pads, 96 Prelude VTEC rotors, rotor centering rings, and machine work.
You will need access to a machine shop to make this work, or PM me (BrakeExpert) and I can take care of it for you.
1. Acquire all parts and tools.
2. Engage e-brake and put the car in Park or first. Jack up the nose of car and put the car on jackstands in the front.
3. Unbolt the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
4. Break the rotor retainer screws loose with the impact wrench. This may not be necessary if your screws are not rusted or you used anti-seize, but may be needed on older cars.
5. Remove the banjo bolt that connects the brake hose to the caliper. Now it gets messy, remember not to touch your car's paint with brake fluid on your hands.
6. Remove the 17mm bolts that hold the caliper to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper.
7. Place the rotor centering ring on the hub.
8. Place the 11.1" rotor on the hub and use a lug nut to keep it in place.
9. Bolt the CL caliper with its brackets and pads onto the knuckle and torque the 17mm bolts to 80lb-ft.
10. Bolt the brake hose onto the caliper and torque to 30lb-ft if reusing your old crush washers. I reccomend new ones every time, but the old ones can get a second use if you overtighten just a bit (don't exceed 35lb-ft, you don't want to mess up these threads.
11. Pump the brake pedal enough to get the pads to clamp the rotor. The pedal will be soft since there is air in the system because it hasn't been bled yet.
12. Remove the lug nut and put the wheel on. Torque your lug nuts to 75lb-ft for aluminum wheels, 80lb-ft for steel wheels.
13. Do the same for the other side.
14. If you are upgrading the master cylinder, remove the MC by unbolting the 10mm bolts on the hardlines with a brake line wrench and then the 12mm bolts from the brake booster.
15. Bench bleed the master cylinder. If you are lazy and don't mind making a mess, fill the resovoir with brake fluid with the new MC out of the car. Use a screwdriver to push into the cylinder bore(EK/98+ Teg) or press on the piston if this is an EG/94-97 Teg. Do this about 6 times, fluid will gush out of the two holes.
16. Install the master cylinder onto the brake booster and tighten the 12mm bolts and then tighten the 10mm brake line bolts.
17. Your brakes are on. The new brakes must be bled. Use either a factory service manual for bleeding procedures, or check online for a standard bleeding procedure on hydraulic brakes. The proper bleeding order for Civics/Integras is Right Rear, then Left Front, then Left Rear, then Right Front. This is because of the crossed brake system; do not go by the method of fartest to closest (to the master cylinder). I reccomend bleeding the whole car, however if you are not changing the master cylinder (and you do not have ABS), you can bleed just the front brakes, however I reccomend bleeding all 4 brakes anyway.
18. Bleed the brakes.
19. Your brakes are on! Ensure the pedal can stop the car by removing the bricks, releasing the e-brake, and moving the car slightly. Stop the car with the pedal, if it does not stop, use the e-brake and check the brake system for bubbles by bleeding the car again.
20. Brake in your new brakes pads by standard brake pad brake in procedure. I reccomend finding an empty straightaway. Get the car upto 50mph and hit the brakes lightly, slowing the car to 10mph, but not to a complete stop. Do this about ten times, not giving your brakes time to cool in between. Your brakes will be pretty warm afterwards, so find a place to stop the car and let the brakes cool to under 100 degrees if possible.
21. Enjoy having stronger than Type-R brakes without having to source and install new steering knuckles! Enjoy having the ability to stop your car at high speeds without fading all the time!
The end result will look like this:
by BrakeExpert
Feel free to ask any questions or IM me if you need parts/machining for this setup.
(This setup is for sale, PM me if interested as this isn't a FS thread.)
Last edited by BrakeExpert; 01-15-2013 at 12:55 PM.
01-29-2008, 08:13 AM
#4
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Woah... I was about to pull the trigger on a set of ITR brakes from you, but I was going to have to switch out my spindles... Now I have more to think about.. These are stronger then stock ITR brakes?
01-29-2008, 08:14 AM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Not to come off as an ***, but have you done any testing with any of your custom setups and say stock integra calipers on similar vehicles (and similar tires)?
Im not saying Im not impressed with all the stuff Ive seen from you...Im just questioning the need for such things.
Its more than easy to lock integra brakes on my ej8 w/ 1" mc/bb, and I could even do it with the stock ex/si setup.
I can see where fade would come into play, on track day, using the original brakes...is a 11.1" setup really that much better??
"Stronger" brakes? Have you ever had a caliper fall apart from use?
again, not trying to be an ***...
Im not saying Im not impressed with all the stuff Ive seen from you...Im just questioning the need for such things.
Its more than easy to lock integra brakes on my ej8 w/ 1" mc/bb, and I could even do it with the stock ex/si setup.
I can see where fade would come into play, on track day, using the original brakes...is a 11.1" setup really that much better??
"Stronger" brakes? Have you ever had a caliper fall apart from use?
again, not trying to be an ***...
01-29-2008, 08:30 AM
#6
Re: (pdiggitydogg)
No its cool, ya gotta question.
I've found the Integra GSR calipers to be a bit lacking. I mean yeah the piston is large, but the pad is a bit small for my taste. It more depends if you are running good tires, my 9.5" brakes way back when could lockup my michelin tires if I pressed all the way to the floorboard. Integra brakes are better, but going to the 11" brakes is night and day, expecially with tires like Toyo Proxes4. How fast and hard your car stops is incredible.
With performance pads and performance tires, you really increase the limit of how fast your car can stop and perform, and its not just for fade on a track, but for those with B and H engines, stopping a car from 120+ with DX brakes doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. I have run 11" brakes on a daily driver and yes, it is THAT much better.
Regarding your EJ8, if your brakes are stock you might want to downgrade your MC, its pushing proportionally more fluid, but thats shortening your pedal stroke and adding no performance gain, where the 7/8" will give you more modulation. paired with performance pads, you may like this a lot better.
When I say stronger, i mean these are very stiff. caliper flex is something I consider, meaning how good of a pedal feel do you have. stainless steel braided softlines is something that can give you better response for your pedal feel, but having a caliper that flexes too much can affect this too. Not that there is anything wrong with the DX caliper, but this one is stiffer and you can sort of feel it when your driving, that its solid and gives a nice firm clamping. No I have never had a Honda caliper fail on me. The only real way to break a honda caliper aside from not tightening the bolts is to run them on a track down to the backing plate and keep braking hard. If you can ignore the screaming of the brakes, eventually you will heatsoak the backing plate to the point where it will try to stick to the rotor. This is why they invented wear indicators, hehe. When your brake pads really run out of meat totally, the brakes suddenly go super mushy and unresponsive. Ever see that test with the new Civic Si verse the M3? The Civic Si ran out of pad material and kept going anyway. When your brakes get soft and start making that much noise, you stop, but the test driver didn't and was still SO hard on dead brakes that the caliper may have gotten heatsoaked (were not talking 300 degrees on normal brakes, more like 1000 degrees and still pressing on).
I've found the Integra GSR calipers to be a bit lacking. I mean yeah the piston is large, but the pad is a bit small for my taste. It more depends if you are running good tires, my 9.5" brakes way back when could lockup my michelin tires if I pressed all the way to the floorboard. Integra brakes are better, but going to the 11" brakes is night and day, expecially with tires like Toyo Proxes4. How fast and hard your car stops is incredible.
With performance pads and performance tires, you really increase the limit of how fast your car can stop and perform, and its not just for fade on a track, but for those with B and H engines, stopping a car from 120+ with DX brakes doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. I have run 11" brakes on a daily driver and yes, it is THAT much better.
Regarding your EJ8, if your brakes are stock you might want to downgrade your MC, its pushing proportionally more fluid, but thats shortening your pedal stroke and adding no performance gain, where the 7/8" will give you more modulation. paired with performance pads, you may like this a lot better.
When I say stronger, i mean these are very stiff. caliper flex is something I consider, meaning how good of a pedal feel do you have. stainless steel braided softlines is something that can give you better response for your pedal feel, but having a caliper that flexes too much can affect this too. Not that there is anything wrong with the DX caliper, but this one is stiffer and you can sort of feel it when your driving, that its solid and gives a nice firm clamping. No I have never had a Honda caliper fail on me. The only real way to break a honda caliper aside from not tightening the bolts is to run them on a track down to the backing plate and keep braking hard. If you can ignore the screaming of the brakes, eventually you will heatsoak the backing plate to the point where it will try to stick to the rotor. This is why they invented wear indicators, hehe. When your brake pads really run out of meat totally, the brakes suddenly go super mushy and unresponsive. Ever see that test with the new Civic Si verse the M3? The Civic Si ran out of pad material and kept going anyway. When your brakes get soft and start making that much noise, you stop, but the test driver didn't and was still SO hard on dead brakes that the caliper may have gotten heatsoaked (were not talking 300 degrees on normal brakes, more like 1000 degrees and still pressing on).
01-29-2008, 08:54 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (BrakeExpert)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Regarding your EJ8, if your brakes are stock you might want to downgrade your MC,
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I have integra calipers up front, discs in the back. I feel the 1" is a good suit to the 57mm pistons. Ive driven civics with the same brakes but 15/16"mc and I just like the 1" better - probably because Im used to the feel.
Im of the belief that the car still weighs the same, whether it has a B, D, or H engine (give or take, but that can vary by driver weight also), so larger brakes for more power isnt that much of a justified argument.
Then again, Ive tracked the car so few times...
Youre always increasing the front brakes, in your posts - do you ever do anything to increase the braking ability of rear? I would like to see something like that, if youre taking requests...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I have integra calipers up front, discs in the back. I feel the 1" is a good suit to the 57mm pistons. Ive driven civics with the same brakes but 15/16"mc and I just like the 1" better - probably because Im used to the feel.
Im of the belief that the car still weighs the same, whether it has a B, D, or H engine (give or take, but that can vary by driver weight also), so larger brakes for more power isnt that much of a justified argument.
Then again, Ive tracked the car so few times...
Youre always increasing the front brakes, in your posts - do you ever do anything to increase the braking ability of rear? I would like to see something like that, if youre taking requests...
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01-29-2008, 09:03 AM
#8
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Youre always increasing the front brakes, in your posts - do you ever do anything to increase the braking ability of rear? I would like to see something like that, if youre taking requests...</TD></TR></TABLE>
He did have a post on how to use EP3 caliper brackets and rotors to upgrade standard GSR rear brakes. In fact, that is the setup I have sitting in my garage right now thanks to him. I will be using it in conjunction with these brakes I think.
Youre always increasing the front brakes, in your posts - do you ever do anything to increase the braking ability of rear? I would like to see something like that, if youre taking requests...</TD></TR></TABLE>
He did have a post on how to use EP3 caliper brackets and rotors to upgrade standard GSR rear brakes. In fact, that is the setup I have sitting in my garage right now thanks to him. I will be using it in conjunction with these brakes I think.
02-01-2008, 09:26 PM
#10
Re: (BrakeExpert)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait a few weeks, i may have an adapter bracket for the back using redrilled 11" S2000 back rotors 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh i want that!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>oh i want that!!!
02-02-2008, 09:33 PM
#13
Re: (994door)
You mean 14" WHEELS? doubt it, but maybe. After all, there are 14s that can clear 11" front ITR brakes and this caliper is a bit shallower. I'll test fit it under my spare (14" stock steelie)
02-03-2008, 09:09 AM
#15
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Re: (BrakeExpert)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You mean 14" WHEELS? doubt it, but maybe. After all, there are 14s that can clear 11" front ITR brakes and this caliper is a bit shallower. I'll test fit it under my spare (14" stock steelie)</TD></TR></TABLE>
sweet. i have been in the market for wheels for a year now and still cant spend the money on something i may not like. but if they fit you have me sold, and soon as I get back from Afghanistan this will be my next project.
sweet. i have been in the market for wheels for a year now and still cant spend the money on something i may not like. but if they fit you have me sold, and soon as I get back from Afghanistan this will be my next project.
02-14-2008, 10:29 PM
#16
Re: (994door)
Hey look what I built?
Ladies and gentlemen, the first OEM Honda 11" rear discs for a civic DRUM spindle!! Okay the NSX were first, but this is the first that isnt heavy as ****.
11.1" disc, S2000/ITR rear pads, there is a custom plate made for the back. Gimme a week or two to make a stencil for this bracket, i only have the two originals, but i may be able to make more, im sure someone else will want these.
Ladies and gentlemen, the first OEM Honda 11" rear discs for a civic DRUM spindle!! Okay the NSX were first, but this is the first that isnt heavy as ****.
11.1" disc, S2000/ITR rear pads, there is a custom plate made for the back. Gimme a week or two to make a stencil for this bracket, i only have the two originals, but i may be able to make more, im sure someone else will want these.
02-15-2008, 02:53 AM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (BrakeExpert)
my buddy built this... idk if im gonna use it tho..
99-00 si front brake setup for the rear.. everything bolts up..
this would be pretty bitchen with the 11.1's up front tho.. and no drilling of the rotors or anything
99-00 si front brake setup for the rear.. everything bolts up..
this would be pretty bitchen with the 11.1's up front tho.. and no drilling of the rotors or anything
02-15-2008, 03:45 AM
#18
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In the UK we measure the discs in milimeters what mm is the 11" discs?
Reason im asking is im doing a 282mm conversion on my UK EK4 VTi - 282mm is the size of brakes found on an ITR
Its a much simpler process tho - all you need is the ITR calipers Rover MG ZS180 discs (282mm & 4 x 100 PCD) And your off - no more mods than that!
Reason im asking is im doing a 282mm conversion on my UK EK4 VTi - 282mm is the size of brakes found on an ITR
Its a much simpler process tho - all you need is the ITR calipers Rover MG ZS180 discs (282mm & 4 x 100 PCD) And your off - no more mods than that!
02-15-2008, 05:13 AM
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02-15-2008, 06:53 AM
#20
Re: (siregcivic)
You honestly are so lazy you cant multiply by 2.54?
That Si setup doesn't look real. Theres no trailing arm, and it has no e-brake. Also, that looks like a DA or DC caliper, but Yeah I built a setup like that 2 years ago, no one was interested cause it doesnt have a handbrake. DO you need hub rings for it?
There are no OEM 4x100 11.1" rotors for Hondas in America, its cheaper to get Prelude VTEC rotors redrilled to 4x100.
I'll let you all know when I get the Legend rear spindle fitted to my civic one, for a drum e-brake
That Si setup doesn't look real. Theres no trailing arm, and it has no e-brake. Also, that looks like a DA or DC caliper, but Yeah I built a setup like that 2 years ago, no one was interested cause it doesnt have a handbrake. DO you need hub rings for it?
There are no OEM 4x100 11.1" rotors for Hondas in America, its cheaper to get Prelude VTEC rotors redrilled to 4x100.
I'll let you all know when I get the Legend rear spindle fitted to my civic one, for a drum e-brake
02-15-2008, 07:53 AM
#21
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Wat do you mean it doesnt look real?? im confused
Its bigger calipers and bigger discs than the 260mm VTi set up - master cylinder is strong enough to cope and no need for new brake lines or hoses either!
Its bigger calipers and bigger discs than the 260mm VTi set up - master cylinder is strong enough to cope and no need for new brake lines or hoses either!
02-15-2008, 08:02 AM
#22
Re: (barryEK4)
For one the piston is roughly 2" and your bias is gonna be off. This is just a caliper with a rotor under it, no trailing arm, and for proper biasing, you'll want at least ITR sized pistons up front and 12" rotors, maybe more. Also, you'll have no e-brake and with the whole setup having a bias that isnt totally rear, theres no way the 7/8" MC will have enough fluid, you'll want the 1". And given the new location of the caliper (assuming it is still straight back from the axle), the brake hose may not reach, so you'll need to disconnect the bolt in the middle and use a zip tie. Also, those aren't bigger than VTi rotors, they are the same. Si front rotors are 10.3" and thats what those are, 260mm. Just clarifying a few things, nice setup.
02-15-2008, 07:22 PM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (BrakeExpert)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For one the piston is roughly 2" and your bias is gonna be off. This is just a caliper with a rotor under it, no trailing arm, and for proper biasing, you'll want at least ITR sized pistons up front and 12" rotors, maybe more. Also, you'll have no e-brake and with the whole setup having a bias that isnt totally rear, theres no way the 7/8" MC will have enough fluid, you'll want the 1". And given the new location of the caliper (assuming it is still straight back from the axle), the brake hose may not reach, so you'll need to disconnect the bolt in the middle and use a zip tie. Also, those aren't bigger than VTi rotors, they are the same. Si front rotors are 10.3" and thats what those are, 260mm. Just clarifying a few things, nice setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are correct on everything...
he was going to get a hydrualuic ebrake and proportioning valve so you can manually adjust how much f/r bias you get.. ill find the system he's going to use...
yes theres no ebrake cables because its the si front calipers.. he is a machinist and machined a bracket to bolt the caliper to the hub of the rear trailing arm... its not bolted up yet. ill get pictures of it all together but not in the car
you are correct on everything...
he was going to get a hydrualuic ebrake and proportioning valve so you can manually adjust how much f/r bias you get.. ill find the system he's going to use...
yes theres no ebrake cables because its the si front calipers.. he is a machinist and machined a bracket to bolt the caliper to the hub of the rear trailing arm... its not bolted up yet. ill get pictures of it all together but not in the car
