JDM_COUPE

iTrader: (3)

h22
stock block
ported head
skunk2 pro 2
stock ported intake manifold
single fogger

im wokring on a new set up right now

JDM809

aight cool. well lets se how this comes out for me and ill keep experimenting from there. im thinking of going with a 4 fogger on this one.

JDM_COUPE

iTrader: (3)

nothing is better than direct port

Bull_head360

hey guys, different kind of question: has anyone used nitrous to cool their intake charge temp, instead of spraying an intercooler or using an intake cooler like this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=sku

My other question is how much of a shot would it take to cool an intake charge? Would something small like a 10 shot be enough? My thinking is spraying say a 10 shot would cool the air enough to net a 30hp gain by lowering the intake temps+the extra air from the nitrous. I would plum the nozzle far from the throttle body, after the intercooler. What do you guys think?

wolve

are'nt we all

size of the shot (coolingwise) totally depends on the amount of heat you're trying to fight and how much you want to cool it.

it's known that spray tends to create double the power it should in a boosted appbecause of this effect (n2o-cooling+n2o-oxygen).

wich location works best for cooling purposes will have to be tested, you need a fast responding iat sensor for it tough, not the laggy heatsoaked oem-unit.

Bull_head360

that sounds scary...Would simply making more horsepower put greater strain on a stock engine? or would it be safer to simply just spray down the intercooler or use a intake cooler..hmmm decisions...

wolve

scary, why? the fast responding iat sensor i mentioned is only necessary for accuratly datalogging the efficiency of different nozzle postitions, not for reliable operation.

just spray the damn thing
more horsepower almost always results in a greater strain.
a cooler intake charge enables you to safely make more tough

661rex89si

who sells a fast responding iat sensor?

battlebornimports

i have a question im running a golden eagle sleeve 86mm block with 13.5.1 compression pistons i want to tune it on e85.What is a good shot of nitrous that i would be safe with? Im trying to break into the 11s

wolve

50 shot should be sufficient on anything other then mild to get into the 11's.

my mate ran a 12.4@114mph on streettires with a 50 shot on a mild gsr

almost any sensor you plumb into the intake arm reacts faster then the heatsoaked unit in the mani

1sikhatch

quick question i bought the ngk 7's for my car, its a lsvtec with a direct port running a 150 shot wat do i gap my plugs at?

wolve

i don't know what the CR on your ls-vtec is, but 7's are hot plugs for nitrous!!!

my mates 254whp mild GSR on a 50 shot needed 8's, as sevens where to hot...
if you run near/at MBT on spray, it going to light up 7's on a 150 shot.
8's where even a little to hot on my 320whp stock b18cr, running 10's without a problem eversince

golf-mk3

good info

sonazty

okay i'm getting ready to hook up the nitrous setup on my car and wanted to see if you guys thought i was missing anything.

i have the NOS nitrous kit with 10lb bottle, it's a wet setup, i have .036 nitrous jet and .026 fuel jet. 255 walbro fuel pump, inline pro fuel rail, 450cc dsm injectors with resistor box, brke 7 ngk plugs, bottle heater and purge kit and all the wiring and nitrous pressure guage. my question is, is it's a stock gsr motor, will it be okay with a 75 shot or should i just stick with the 50 shot. also do i need a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure guage or will it be okay with stock FPR and no fuel pressure guage. i looked up the jets i got and couldn't find much on them, other than i think that the .026 fuel jet might cause me to run a little rich for a 50 shot. any input and or advice is welcomed. thanks, sonazty

AaroNX

I've been running BKR7E's with my 100 shot for years with no issues whatsoever. I'd say your mate burning them with a 50 shot had other issues lol.

1sikhatch

my cr is about 12:1 wat do u gap ur plugs to?

661rex89si

hmmm i wanna explore water/meth injection and nitrous . seems like a couple domestic guys are seeing good things from the combo. would be nice to run 91oct since that's the highest we get out here and have w/m injection to up the octane. its kinda the same as running a dedicated fuel set-up so i might pass. i wonder if anyone has some constructive criticism.

wolve

what whp was it making(trap speeds)? what was the timing and AFR?

where talking about a "50shot"...
it was on a mild 194whp GSR, adding 60whp at peak and wel over 90+whp (slightly overretarded to keep torque down) right after activation. it was running right at MBT across the usable powerband and spot on at 11.9-12.3 afr. plugs looked fine at first glance, further inspection showed that the plugs where slightly to hot. 8's where better for HIS setup. i also ran 8's at 321whp.

i don't get how everyone want's to run a hot plug...i've run hillbilly 10's on a stock B18CR and it ran like stock (had no spare plugs left and got some from a 2000+whp V8 guy)

most people that run nitrous, run rich and very retarded (especially up top). if your not near/at MBT, offcourse it going to run cooler on the same shot. his setup was very efficiently tuned with a nice powerband. it liked 8's tough

from the top of my head i believe it was 0.035 (at 321whp)
don't reduce it until ignition starts having trouble

Bull_head360

Hey man, that setup sounds good, sounds similar to mine, minus the injectors and fuel rail, the fuel gauge is mostly for bling since you can't see it from the drivers seat and it does nothing for performance, as for the FPR, you're probably safe, I've been running my stock fpr for 2 years, no problems. Some guys have said that your stock fpr "can't handle the extra psi from the walbro" but I don't buy it. I'm not sure with the jet sizes as I'm running a dry setup and the jets are different. I'd shy away from the 75 shot if you're running a single fogger, only because I don't trust them, direct port, then yea...You're setup would work well with a dry setup, especially with a good tune, I'd spray 100 shot on that.

Bull_head360

I fully agree, you need a hot plug if you live in Alaska, other than that, run 1 or 2 steps colder, I think I gapped mine to stock but I can't remember for sure, I'm running 1 step colder plugs btw...

Hey if you run a colder plug, can that compensate for advanced timing?

Bull_head360

Scary in a good way, spray a little, get a lot back, just don't wanna pop my stock block gsr with 140,000 miles as a result...

661rex89si

we need to revive this thread.

661rex89si

i had to settle for a zex dry kit that i only got for 150 since i was forced to sell a lot of my stuff to keep above water. anyway i hate zex personally but beggars cant be choosers right. anyway i plan to replace the nozzle for a better one like mentioned on here . now what size main feed line would be better to the point you wouldn't need a purge unit. i hear -4 etc... nylon

specie

What's the upper limits of nitrous for stock valves? When are ss valves required?

wolve

The upper limits are reached once a bad tune arrives. uneven nitrous distribution can kill also.

i ran 321whp on stock everything (inc valves) comfortably.

on more serious setups BIG cams combined with a lot of retard/fuel can create a lot of heat while exhaling.

on a decent tune i would'nt go trough the hassle of SS/inconel exh valve before 350whp

as long as you fuel it trough the injectors/ecu it should be fine

up untill 150hp a 5mm nylon line should suffice, least need for a purge. 4an should suffice for 200+whp. as short as possible pre and post solenoid lines will help also

150 single dry can be a lot of fun AND reliable