All VX OWNERS.... I need some help
08-26-2007, 03:42 AM
#3
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Re: All VX OWNERS.... I need some help (slowcivic2k)
Laf? I don't know the term. The plug i have right now by the trans has 7 wires on it and i know that on a vx the o2 sensor goes to the front exhaust mani. please explain... thanks
08-26-2007, 10:16 AM
#4
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Re: All VX OWNERS.... I need some help (BoRiCuA)
LAF is Linear Air/Fuel Sensor, and the VX and newer Honda's use these to calculate actual AFR, since the VX has a lean burn mode for better fuel mileage.
The 7 wire plug is the LAF sensor connector.
The 7 wire plug is the LAF sensor connector.
08-26-2007, 11:05 AM
#5
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Re: All VX OWNERS.... I need some help (BoRiCuA)
does this apply even if you change the engine harness? i get an O2 code evertime i slow down on the highway without pushing the clutch in!
08-26-2007, 03:47 PM
#6
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Re: All VX OWNERS.... I need some help (LS AzZkIkr)
So this takes the place of the o2 sensor then right? Is their a way to cnnect a 4 wire 02 sensor?
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08-27-2007, 08:28 AM
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Re: All VX OWNERS.... I need some help (BoRiCuA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoRiCuA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So this takes the place of the o2 sensor then right? Is their a way to cnnect a 4 wire 02 sensor? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the VX's wideband (NGK L1H1) is an O2 sensor, it's simply not a normal narrowband O2 that we are used to dealing with. In fact it's better in many ways than a normal O2.
BUT you can not drop in a narrowband and expect it to work. At least not without changing the ECU to one that accepts a narrowband. And then altering the tuning in that ECU to run correctly with the D15Z1.
If you have a VX that has a bad O2, replace it with the correct O2 and be done with it. It's not worth the money and time to try to rig something that will only screw up your car in the long run.
the VX's wideband (NGK L1H1) is an O2 sensor, it's simply not a normal narrowband O2 that we are used to dealing with. In fact it's better in many ways than a normal O2.
BUT you can not drop in a narrowband and expect it to work. At least not without changing the ECU to one that accepts a narrowband. And then altering the tuning in that ECU to run correctly with the D15Z1.
If you have a VX that has a bad O2, replace it with the correct O2 and be done with it. It's not worth the money and time to try to rig something that will only screw up your car in the long run.
08-27-2007, 10:42 AM
#9
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Re: All VX OWNERS.... I need some help (Relic1)
Sorry i forgot to mention i'm running the hondata s300 and i can eliminate the o2 just wanted to know if that plug that has 7 wires on it is for the o2?
08-28-2007, 07:19 AM
#11
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*sigh* since you have a S300, and it doesn't work on a P07, you must have a different ECU.
Which ECU you have will dictiate which O2 you can run.
Also if you have spent the money on a S300 hopefully you don't have the VX's D15Z1 anymore. It would be silly to have an engine control system that costs as much as the engine it's controlling.
all of these details are HUGE when asking for help like this.
Modified by Relic1 at 11:02 AM 8/28/2007
Which ECU you have will dictiate which O2 you can run.
Also if you have spent the money on a S300 hopefully you don't have the VX's D15Z1 anymore. It would be silly to have an engine control system that costs as much as the engine it's controlling.
all of these details are HUGE when asking for help like this.
Modified by Relic1 at 11:02 AM 8/28/2007
08-28-2007, 02:40 PM
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Re: (VXh22eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VXh22eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VX oxygen sensor is most expensive..like $400+</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you are silly enough to go to the dealership for it.
go to ebay, type in L1H1, click search. multiple hits come up for under $150. most of them are brand new.
there are also several other sites that have them for the 125-150 range.
searching is key.
if you are silly enough to go to the dealership for it.
go to ebay, type in L1H1, click search. multiple hits come up for under $150. most of them are brand new.
there are also several other sites that have them for the 125-150 range.
searching is key.
08-28-2007, 02:54 PM
#14
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Re: (Relic1)
WHOA WHOA guys, I'm running a built N/A motor 236 on chassis dyno. all i want to know is about the plug on the vx engine harness, does it have 7 wires so i know what to do with it. thanks
08-28-2007, 03:18 PM
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Re: (BoRiCuA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoRiCuA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHOA WHOA guys, I'm running a built N/A motor 236 on chassis dyno. all i want to know is about the plug on the vx engine harness, does it have 7 wires so i know what to do with it. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is exactly why I asked this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*sigh* since you have a S300, and it doesn't work on a P07, you must have a different ECU.
Which ECU you have will dictiate which O2 you can run.
Also if you have spent the money on a S300 hopefully you don't have the VX's D15Z1 anymore. It would be silly to have an engine control system that costs as much as the engine it's controlling.
all of these details are HUGE when asking for help like this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the 7 connections at the VX's O2 are actually 5 connections to other places, two connections are a simple resistor built into the plug.
4 wire O2 color - VX O2 color - destination
black (pick one it doesn't matter) - orange - A6(ECU)
black (the other one) - new wire - group of yellow/black wires at driver's shock tower
white - white - D14(ECU)
green - yellow - ground
if you dont' have the VX O2 to use you'll need to list what color wires you have in the plug so I can tell you which wires do what.
you should have:
harness color (O2 color)
yellow/black(orange)
orange/blue(white)
orange(black)
white/blue(red)
white(white) - not typically present
black(yellow)
this is exactly why I asked this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*sigh* since you have a S300, and it doesn't work on a P07, you must have a different ECU.
Which ECU you have will dictiate which O2 you can run.
Also if you have spent the money on a S300 hopefully you don't have the VX's D15Z1 anymore. It would be silly to have an engine control system that costs as much as the engine it's controlling.
all of these details are HUGE when asking for help like this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the 7 connections at the VX's O2 are actually 5 connections to other places, two connections are a simple resistor built into the plug.
4 wire O2 color - VX O2 color - destination
black (pick one it doesn't matter) - orange - A6(ECU)
black (the other one) - new wire - group of yellow/black wires at driver's shock tower
white - white - D14(ECU)
green - yellow - ground
if you dont' have the VX O2 to use you'll need to list what color wires you have in the plug so I can tell you which wires do what.
you should have:
harness color (O2 color)
yellow/black(orange)
orange/blue(white)
orange(black)
white/blue(red)
white(white) - not typically present
black(yellow)
08-30-2007, 02:53 PM
#16
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Re: (Relic1)
sorry i took so long i appreciate the help, colors are:
yellow.black
black
white/blue
orange/blue
orange
green/white
white
Here is a pic:
yellow.black
black
white/blue
orange/blue
orange
green/white
white
Here is a pic:
08-30-2007, 03:04 PM
#17
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ok a little different but no big deal.
4 wire O2 color - VX O2 color - destination
black (pick one it doesn't matter) - yellow/black - A6(ECU)
black (the other one) - new wire - group of yellow/black wires at driver's shock tower
white - orange/blue - D14(ECU)
green - black - ground
double check that the wires I listed go where I say they go. if they are wrong you can damage the ECU and O2.
4 wire O2 color - VX O2 color - destination
black (pick one it doesn't matter) - yellow/black - A6(ECU)
black (the other one) - new wire - group of yellow/black wires at driver's shock tower
white - orange/blue - D14(ECU)
green - black - ground
double check that the wires I listed go where I say they go. if they are wrong you can damage the ECU and O2.
08-30-2007, 03:58 PM
#18
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Re: (Relic1)
If i'm using the hondata s300 can't i just eliminate the o2 sensor? at least that's what i was told, if so, can't i just leave this wire hanging? please help guys.....
08-30-2007, 08:03 PM
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disabling the primary O2 means you'd be in open loop all the time.
Which is fine if you have a wideband to monitor all the time and perfectly tuned maps.
Best to run the O2 enabled (closed loop) and have that safty margin.
Which is fine if you have a wideband to monitor all the time and perfectly tuned maps.
Best to run the O2 enabled (closed loop) and have that safty margin.
08-31-2007, 09:22 AM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Just let it dangle. Zip tie it out of the way. I hope you're running a wideband with a 0-1v output that you're sending to the ECU. If not, at least wire up a 4 wire O2 so you can run more safely.
08-31-2007, 09:23 AM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
I forgot to mention...
With Hondata, you can disable the O2 heater, or you can run closed loop, disabling the sensor... If you have the software, it's easy.
With Hondata, you can disable the O2 heater, or you can run closed loop, disabling the sensor... If you have the software, it's easy.
08-31-2007, 10:10 AM
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Re: (Bakeoff)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoRiCuA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you suggest i do with the plug then, cause i'm definatley not going to run the sensor.....?</TD></TR></TABLE>
cut it off and tape up the unused wires, or let it dangle. the choice is yours.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forgot to mention...
With Hondata, you can disable the O2 heater, or you can run closed loop, disabling the sensor... If you have the software, it's easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what the???
closed loop means O2 enabled and you must have a narrow band O2 in place or a wideband with a narrowband output.
open loop means no O2.
not to mention that he's been talking about wiring up a 4-wire O2 to the VX's harness.
cut it off and tape up the unused wires, or let it dangle. the choice is yours.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forgot to mention...
With Hondata, you can disable the O2 heater, or you can run closed loop, disabling the sensor... If you have the software, it's easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what the???
closed loop means O2 enabled and you must have a narrow band O2 in place or a wideband with a narrowband output.
open loop means no O2.
not to mention that he's been talking about wiring up a 4-wire O2 to the VX's harness.