Honda and Acura Model Specific Forums

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skunked

yeah it may have something to do with that. I would find out what cable the EF guys use with a B swap and that cable should work fine for you.

I'm using a 90-93 teg cable

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdmEF8racer

wouldnt the jdm hood be a good fit??

Not even close, the front of the valve-cover is a lot higher too

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skunked · 08-30-2007, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibsanez

I'm using a 90-93 teg cable

and that works with an EF B series Hybrid?

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skunked

and that works with an EF B series Hybrid?

It works for a straight B swap in an EF, so I may end up hunting around for a shorter cable or just continue on with my own bracket, we'll see.

skunked · 08-30-2007, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibsanez

It works for a straight B swap in an EF, so I may end up hunting around for a shorter cable or just continue on with my own bracket, we'll see.

If it works for the B it will work for the H22. Either you don't really have that cable or it's not installed correctly.

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 10:48 AM

I pulled the cable myself out of the integra, so I atleast know for sure that it's the right cable. This is where the adjuster sits when the cable is attached to the gas pedal and the throttle body.

skunked · 08-30-2007, 10:56 AM

and your sure it's hooked up correctly at the pedal? That's allot of slack, like 6-8" huh?

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 11:02 AM

I'll double check the pedal, but I know it went in well. It is a lot of slack

skunked · 08-30-2007, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibsanez

I'll double check the pedal, but I know it went in well. It is a lot of slack

yeah it's a ton of slack!

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skunked

yeah it's a ton of slack!

I might scrounge around and try to find a D series and see if it's any shorter. So instead of wasting time frigging with the cable, I went ahead and fitted my alt. bracket.

I cut the nub off at the end of the bolt, plus flattened out the bump I took a picture off, and it fits like a glove.

How is this for an eye-ball DIY?

I'm going to have to modify my front cross member to fit the bottom of the bracket, had I anticipated that I would have made the bracket shorter and more compact. Eventually I'll go to a full traction bar setup or make my own to get rid of the slack-ass hole I have to cut in the stock x-member. The pictures almost look like I'd be cutting RIGHT into the spot where the rod and bushing are, but luckily I'm beside it. I'm not proud of having to cut my x-member up, that was not enough planning on my part.

If anyone else plans on making their own bracket, make it short as possible.

STREETWERKZ · 08-30-2007, 12:14 PM

whoa alternator clearance!

great DIY!!!

doublethink · 08-30-2007, 12:35 PM

You're not worried about that silicon on the oil pan?

I only say this because if it sprung a leak in that spot you'd lose enough oil to hurt the motor.

Great build, this is cool.

Looking foward to see the hood.

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doublethink

You're not worried about that silicon on the oil pan?

I only say this because if it sprung a leak in that spot you'd lose enough oil to hurt the motor.

Great build, this is cool.

Looking foward to see the hood.

Yeah, i'm looking forward to seeing the hood too. As far as the silicone is concerned, I merely flattened off part of the lip on the oil pan, the bolts are all still in place and there is still the gasket sealing, but it is something i'll be keeping my eye on.

skunked · 08-30-2007, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doublethink

You're not worried about that silicon on the oil pan?

I only say this because if it sprung a leak in that spot you'd lose enough oil to hurt the motor.

Great build, this is cool.

shouldn't be an issue.

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 03:51 PM

I ended up double-nutting the original bolts that I was using for my alt. bracket, and moving them into the higher spot, and re-drilling my bracket. This way, i no longer have to cut my front cross-member. I'll get sum pixx.

AK_CRX · 08-30-2007, 05:41 PM

looks a lot easier than the H/F to D swap... did you have to notch the frame rail for the crank pulley? Can't believe how much more room you have compared to my f to d

gibsanez · 08-30-2007, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK_CRX

looks a lot easier than the H/F to D swap... did you have to notch the frame rail for the crank pulley? Can't believe how much more room you have compared to my f to d

I had the second set of ribs machined off of the pulley, but even then I had to cut and weld in a pocket in the frame rail. I took a couple pictures, they're on page 1. There is quite a bit of room actually, I can remove my oil filter from the top no problem. A stock rad clears the header too.

Like I said before, I moved the alt. bracket higher, so now there will be no cutty-cutty of the x-member. Yay! I am converting to a half-rad because I need the room for my alt.

skunked · 08-30-2007, 07:13 PM

much better up there IMO

DOhC MaN · 08-31-2007, 12:25 PM

H2B=

thevtecnician · 08-31-2007, 01:47 PM

If you remove the iab's from the intake manifold it will drop an inch and the wiring will be easier. Also get an sir hood or sir style hood. And then use spacers

gibsanez · 08-31-2007, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thevtecnician

If you remove the iab's from the intake manifold it will drop an inch and the wiring will be easier. Also get an sir hood or sir style hood. And then use spacers

Funny that you suggest that because I ended up doing that earlier this afternoon anyways

It actually gave me quite a bit of clearance.

I'm getting a half rad tomorrow, I need the clearance for my alternator. I'll take mega pixx of my hoses and whatnot.

I'm trying to get my hands on a stock 2-1 off of a prelude. The angle will be WAY off though. What I'll end up doing is using a stock 2-1, cutting it right after the O2 bung, and welding in a couple pieces of a 45 degree pipe or something to match it up with the flange on my cat.

The SiR hood won't work. The bumped portion isn't wide enough. I'll show you. This was after about 20 minutes of fitting. It looks like I'll be able to get away with 1/2" or 5/8" spacers in the rear. I won't be leaving the big hole there, I'm disputing putting a bubble, or a small cowl there. I don't know yet, any suggestions are welcome.

UltimX · 08-31-2007, 10:30 PM

looks good. i think you or who ever is doing the welding on that bracket needs to lower the wirespeed, crank up the amperage, or both. just tryin to help. can't wait to see it done.

gibsanez · 08-31-2007, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimX

looks good. i think you or who ever is doing the welding on that bracket needs to lower the wirespeed, crank up the amperage, or both. just tryin to help. can't wait to see it done.

Shitty 110 mig. Took it to work and plugged it full of stainless rods.

Thanks for the concern though, it would be no good to me if it just snapped and dropped my alt. onto passing pavement.

crx-b16 · 09-01-2007, 03:17 PM

Ya that shyt looks nice.. great swap....

SIred91 · 09-01-2007, 03:27 PM

Use an sir hood (no indented center section) then make the same cut, make a cowl center section or bubble, then you shouldn't have to crank the back up.

Im interested to see how this turns out!

Modified by SIred91 at 4:49 PM 9/1/2007

Pee Wee · 09-01-2007, 03:29 PM

i think even a cowl on what he has now would look killer.

08-30-2007, 10:56 AM	#31
skunked Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NOR CAL Posts: 12,445	Re: (gibsanez) and your sure it's hooked up correctly at the pedal? That's allot of slack, like 6-8" huh? __________________ 2.2L H2B NA DC2 S/P 12.1@110 http://www.quartersportsdrag.com/ SINISTER RACING

08-30-2007, 12:14 PM	#35
STREETWERKZ Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 5,555	Re: (gibsanez) whoa alternator clearance! great DIY!!! __________________ Honda S2000 For Sale socalhttp://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2612334

08-30-2007, 12:35 PM	#36
doublethink Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: long island, ny, usa Posts: 3,248	Re: (gibsanez) You're not worried about that silicon on the oil pan? I only say this because if it sprung a leak in that spot you'd lose enough oil to hurt the motor. Great build, this is cool. Looking foward to see the hood. __________________ [1985 CRX Si -Sold] [1989 CRX DX -Junked] [1990 CRX DX (b16a) -Wrecked] [1990 CRX DX -Parted] [1991 CRX Si -Parted] [1988 CRX HF -Sold] 2004 s2000 Berlina MOB #040

08-30-2007, 05:41 PM	#40
AK_CRX Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Anchorage, ALASKA Posts: 401	looks a lot easier than the H/F to D swap... did you have to notch the frame rail for the crank pulley? Can't believe how much more room you have compared to my f to d __________________ NOOB to Honda-Tech, not to Honda's '90 CRX Si Olive Green, Bisi F2D turbo (soon to be in a WAGON, WHUT!) Yeah, I rock a Honda tattoo... (vw in avatar is not mine, just a dream car)

08-30-2007, 07:13 PM	#42
skunked Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NOR CAL Posts: 12,445	Re: (gibsanez) much better up there IMO __________________ 2.2L H2B NA DC2 S/P 12.1@110 http://www.quartersportsdrag.com/ SINISTER RACING

08-31-2007, 12:25 PM	#43
DOhC MaN Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: new york, ny, united states Posts: 44	Re: (dem0nk1d) H2B=

08-31-2007, 01:47 PM	#44
thevtecnician Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: minneapolis MN Posts: 3,019	Re: (I CRX I) If you remove the iab's from the intake manifold it will drop an inch and the wiring will be easier. Also get an sir hood or sir style hood. And then use spacers __________________ Cheap swaps/tucks/ troubleshooting in the twin cities! http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...466984857.html

08-31-2007, 10:30 PM	#46
UltimX Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,955	Re: (gibsanez) looks good. i think you or who ever is doing the welding on that bracket needs to lower the wirespeed, crank up the amperage, or both. just tryin to help. can't wait to see it done. __________________ FS: d16a6 head complete, LS head minus rockers, eibach sportline springs & aftermarket struts, Catalytic Con., sparco speed seat, NEW Traction bar, aftermarket header. 1800 lbs and dropping...

09-01-2007, 03:17 PM	#48
crx-b16 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Willows, Ca, USA Posts: 403	Re: (gibsanez) Ya that shyt looks nice.. great swap.... __________________ Selling b20b's longblocks $625 H22a's complete swaps $1900 OBD0 b16 dizzy 80 obo... H&R Coilover/struts setup 500+shipping http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2103822

09-01-2007, 03:27 PM	#49
SIred91 Rainman 1991 Honda CRX Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Kills, Utah Posts: 6,785	Re: (gibsanez) Use an sir hood (no indented center section) then make the same cut, make a cowl center section or bubble, then you shouldn't have to crank the back up. Im interested to see how this turns out! Modified by SIred91 at 4:49 PM 9/1/2007 __________________ I'll have the tuna. EFsquad#104

09-01-2007, 03:29 PM	#50
Pee Wee Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: baitin in your closet, dude Posts: 3,651	Re: (SIred91) i think even a cowl on what he has now would look killer.

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