The Same Old H2B Civic H22 swap

[88ED8]

kool, now all you you need is boost

This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Honda-Tech!

[gibsanez]

Originally Posted by 88ED8

kool, now all you you need is boost

Sorry Mr. King of baller. I just saw the Hondata shot too I already said it but paint turned out nice


Honestly, once I get the car running, I plan on doing an N/A build. If I was to boost, I would just sleeve and stick the whole H2B combo in a DC. But I'ma stick with regular atmospheric pressure for now.

First I'll bump the compression with some Type S pistons or some Mahle's. I'm feeling the latter. Throw in some head-work, some Pro1's or Pro2's, a $1000 header, and a buttload of time on the dyno, and I think it'll keep me happy for a while. Does Rocket Motorsports make cams for the H?

[gibsanez]

And a correction to make about my conversation with thevtecnician. You were correct the first time, I had the sensor locations mixed up, which means chances are I wired them backwards as well. The odd thing is though, I'm not throwing codes for either the KS or Oil pressure sensor, using a P13 ECU. More fun

Edit - It turns out I had the correct wire locations for the ECT, except I put the plug on the thermo switch instead of the plug in the head

I'm down to two codes now, the VTEC pressure switch which i just have to ground, and the ELD which i'll be turning off in Crome like I said before.

Now what in the hell am I supposed to wire to that thermo switch now?


Modified by gibsanez at 1:18 PM 12/19/2007

[thevtecnician]

Yah I totally forgot about the oil coolers too

[gibsanez]

I just finished replacing that oil cooler "gasket". I put quotations around "gasket", because I would consider what came off of the cooler more of a "hard brittle plastic broken ring".

Now I can finally put it back on the ground, put trans fluid it in, and drive the cocksucker.

[88ED8]

you know what they say... you are what you drive hahaha, I got ya, say I got ya!!lol

[thevtecnician]

Lol. I bet that thing really hauls huh? Is traction a problem or what

[gibsanez]

Bam, TPS code came back. But with the correct wiring of the ECT the engine fires up right away, and now I have no more oil leak. I'll just have to adjust the TPS once I get my exhaust finished up.

The front end of the car has been up in the air for a little while, so now I can put the wheels back on and put trans fluid in it. I also still have a high idle, my guess is the TPS.

[AK_CRX]

A note on high idle... I just ran into this with my F motor, and I assume H is the same in this respect. My motor has an idle control unit on the bottom of the throttle body that is purely mechanical its just like an iacv, but no wires. basically coolant goes through in and out of the throttle body, the temp of the coolant dictates how far open an air valve goes which bypasses air past the butterfly at idle. Anyways in the midst of my swap figuring out wiring issues and what not I never completely topped off the coolant and bled it for air bubbles... This was my whole problem, There was enough coolant running through the system to keep it at a good temp, but not enough to get the correct responce from this valve. My fix was pulling the valve off the throttle body and filling the air passage with window weld so idle is completely dependent on the iacv (like every other honda engine I've ever ran). My idle issue is GONE now, fires up and idles right at 960 with no accesories on.

[gibsanez]

Originally Posted by AK_CRX

A note on high idle.....

wow, I never actually noticed that it didn't have any wires going to it, and It would also make sense that I have a high-idle with a TPS code and the fact I haven't blend my coolant

Thanks for the information!

[88ED8]

make shure the block is full too, mine was dry as a... dry block and the thermo wouldn't open then I relized what was going on, filled up the block, bled it and is running nice and cool at 175*-187*

and as far as the FITV goes just eliminate it and plug off all the coolant lines

[mario_pic]

lol u know what id do for jokes lol put clear glass as a temp cover lol show it off lmao lol jk jk lol u shoud get a new hood and use a english wheel on it i did it to my buddys bubble back it looks nice takes some pounding and time but ull get it right u need to cut some supports under the hood tho try to keep as much supports as posible and use a rubber hammer to and soft sofa pillow like i used on the other side of the hood and bang and dend the shape in for the hump then round it out with a english wheel it will look nice soft hump if done right

[Loserkidwac]

I have plans for an H2b setup with a boosted H23...which I just picked up this weekend I had though about removing the butterflys like you did for hood clearance, looks like it helped a lot but Im curious to the negative effects like loss of lowend power and such? anyone have experience with this on either H22 or H23 or even and F motor with the duel runner intake with the butterflys removed?

Thanks a lot for all the pics and info this is going to help me a lot when my CRX goes under the knife!!!

[gibsanez]

Originally Posted by Loserkidwac

I have plans for an H2b setup with a boosted H23...

I hope this does help with your swap. This thread isn't organized the way I had hoped it would be, mainly because I simply fixed problems as I ran into them .

I figure if you're boosting, whatever low-end power lost from removing the butterfly's would be pretty much eliminated. There must be a reason the guys switch to the Euro R manifold.

But in all reality, with a turbocharged, 2.3, in an EF, with a B trans....You won't be in the "low end" too much Regardless, I'm gonna go poke around the All motor and the prelude forum for some dyno's.


http://honda-tech.com/zerothre...14743


Modified by gibsanez at 11:05 AM 12/27/2007

[Loserkidwac]

Originally Posted by gibsanez

I hope this does help with your swap. This thread isn't organized the way I had hoped it would be, mainly because I simply fixed problems as I ran into them .

I figure if you're boosting, whatever low-end power lost from removing the butterfly's would be pretty much eliminated. There must be a reason the guys switch to the Euro R manifold.

But in all reality, with a turbocharged, 2.3, in an EF, with a B trans....You won't be in the "low end" too much Regardless, I'm gonna go poke around the All motor and the prelude forum for some dyno's.

Yea Im not to concerned about the loss of power, curious if the car will idle without the butterflys, mine isn't a DD just a weekend project plans for a HMT setup, gonna search the junkyards for a nice big-ole Holset to slap on the beast, butterflys might acctually help spool the beast a little quicker, not to sure..., trying to do a budget H2b w/ boost ( I know budget build and H2b don't really mix lol but I'm good at finding deals ), got bored of the typical B swap and want a little challenge

[gibsanez]

Very weird, I just went and checked voltage on my TPS.

My multimeter was set up correctly, using a good ground and on the 20V setting. I stuck a paper clip into the middle pin to get my reading. Key on, Engine Off. I get a reading of 4.5V at closed throttle no matter where I move my TPS to.


This is odd, considering it doesn't bog when the throttle is blipped, and only a few weeks ago I didn't have this engine code. I had it in the beginning, but realized I was using the wrong ground, so I switched and it went away.

The very last thing I did before this code showed up was simply switch the plug I had on my thermo switch to the one on the head. The ECT code went away and then TPS showed up once I started the engine again...


Edit - And then all of a sudden, the TPS code went away
But don't fear, it came back again


Modified by gibsanez at 1:10 PM 12/27/2007

[mechmunkee3]

good stuff

[gibsanez]

Alright, coolant is bled, and the idle came down to about 1700. It starts great, and i just finished hooking up the exhaust, so it's a bit quieter now. I don't think i have any vacuum leaks, i went over the lines pretty good. I'm still throwing my TPS code.

What I can't figure out about it, is the fact that when i went to adjust the TPS, all I could get was 5v out of the middle wire, no matter which way I moved the sensor. My guess is that it's fried. I'm also going to check my IAVC and FITV.

[AK_CRX]

get the tps thing figured out? still think you oughta block off the fitv... My engine and I are muh happier now that its non functional

[gibsanez]

Ok, so I ordered a new TPS off of ebay last week, and over the last 5 business days, they still haven't shipped it yet

Other then that, I don't know if i'll block off the FITV or not, it gets pretty goddamn cold here. It was -5F the other morning with a wind chill of -22F.

The car is now back on the ground, I just have to wire up my fan, and now fix a small hole in my floor. Oh, by the way, a stock header will clear the stock cross-member without modification.

[gibsanez]

Still no TPS, but I started welding my floor, it's coming fairly well. I'm only a week away from odering my koni/GC's. Any suggested spring rates?

[stunn'd]

Originally Posted by gibsanez

Any suggested spring rates?

Thats a good question, especially for this engine/chassis combo. I would like to know as well!

Maybe call up GC and ask them, Im sure they would have some valuable input.

Nice Build btw, for a fellow canuck

[AK_CRX]

Hey, don't know if you have the same issue as me or not but I had a big problem with my throttle cable untill today, the factory one being the wrong length and size to properly work with my F motor crx... Anyways I ordered a throttle cable and bracket (the one on the manifold) for a 94 Accord and the cable fits right into the firewall and clips into the gas pedal like factory and just works perfect like stock, so Im assuming the same idea would work on your H civic if you got the cable from like a 92-96 Prelude. Just thought I'd share that little nugget, not sure if its been covered before

[gibsanez]

Originally Posted by AK_CRX

Hey, don't know if you have the same issue as me or not but I had a big problem with my throttle cable untill today, the factory one being the wrong length and size to properly work with my F motor crx... Anyways I ordered a throttle cable and bracket (the one on the manifold) for a 94 Accord and the cable fits right into the firewall and clips into the gas pedal like factory and just works perfect like stock, so Im assuming the same idea would work on your H civic if you got the cable from like a 92-96 Prelude. Just thought I'd share that little nugget, not sure if its been covered before

Thanks for the information, I actually had quite a bit of trouble with my B bracket and cable trying to make it fit, because it was way too long. Something I can try now. Thanks!

[gibsanez]

Originally Posted by stunn’d

Nice Build btw, for a fellow canuck

I heard you guys have been getting pounded with -40 and -50 the past week or so, hows that going?