DIY: Drums ---> Discs Spelled Out (boilermaker1)

[toyomatt84]

Originally Posted by boilermaker1 This WILL be the last thread ever posted on the subject. I swear I'm gonna ban anyone who asks again. Post in <FONT SIZE="4">THIS THREAD</FONT> if you have questions about doing this. There is info in the FAQ, it is basic, this is a mix of that, the Honda manual on the subject and me tearing stuff apart. While I do not claim this to be 100% comprehensive, if you know a wrench from a hole in the ground, this is easy. It is a straight bolt on install, you don't need to modify anything... its just part for part swapping. First you need to acquire a set of EP3 discs. EL discs for Canadians also will work. The more complete you can buy, the better, low miles is good too. If you build them, which I advise against because its expensive, you need knuckles, the hub and bearings, caliper assembly, wheel sensors and all the bracketry. Regardless, you need Si brake lines and EP3 or DC5 ebrake cables. I believe non abs cars will require a new proportioning valve although I can't confirm this. EX models don't need one, the ABS takes care of it. Start by doing normal rear end work proceedures, jack the car, stands, pull the wheels. You don't need too many tools, 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets, a couple other basic tools. If you have ratcheting wrenches, they will come in handy, there's some tight spots. First, remove the brake lines from the drums. Its up on the wheel well, you'll also need to remove the brake line bracket and save it for the new lines. Next go into the car and remove the console. Disconnect the e-brake cables from the handle. You'll need to rotate the carrier until the wire comes up out of the slot on the side, then the pin will come out the top. Unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the cable to the underside of the car. Then you'll need to remove the wheel sensor wires. On the right side, the plug is in the trunk. Pull up the carpet, you'll see a silver cover on the right side, just behind the seats. Pry it up to reveal the connector, unplug it and push it through the hole in the floor. There's also a bracket that holds it under the car, and one that holds it to the UCA. It also helps to undo the bolt that holds the muffler guard in place so you can see what you're doing when you go to put the new one in. Its the guard bolt right next to the sensor bracket. On the left, the harness is above the gas filler neck. Its a tight squeeze, but you can grab it. With all the connections undone you can now unbolt the knuckle. First, mark the alignment cam so you know where to put it back later. The back bolt on the bottom of the knuckle is eccentric. If you look at it, there's marks on it... mark the one that lines up with the mark on the frame, or use a marker to mark where it goes. (the red mark in the picture isn't exactly right, but if you look at the cam bolt next to it you'll see the marks I'm referring to) Using a jack to support the knuckle, remove the UCA bolt first, then the alignment locknut. Once you've got the alignment nut off remove the front lower bolt. The knuckle should swing down now. With a small hammer or a socket handle, knock the alignment cam out. You should have the cam bolt and the big slotted nut. the knuckle should be loose, remove it. Remove the stock wheel sensor from the drum. Its the oblong shaped thing in on the back that the orange plug is attached to. Remove the bolt then pry it out carefully. You'll need to do the same for the ones on the discs. Put the stock ones from the drums in the discs. Bolt them back in, toss the Si ones. Everything else is just in reverse order. If you need to install brake lines on the discs, do it beforehand, make sure you use crushwashers with the new lines to prevent leaks. You can also change pads and/or rotors beforehand. Bolt the lower front bolt in, but not all the way. If you tighten it you won't get the cam back in. Then reinstall the cam, lining up the marks. Install the locknut and keep your marks lined up. Torque the locknut to 43 ft-lbs. Tighten down the front bolt now, also 43 ft-lbs. Then swing the knuckle up and install the UCA bolt. 43 again. Install the bracket on the brake line with the clip and connect the lines. Bolt the bracket back on the wheel well. No spec... just tight. Feed the E-brake lines in through the floor. Connect them to the carrier attached to the handle and rebolt them to the floor pan. Don't forget to install the rubber floor seals. The E-brake on the caliper is the sprung hook on top. Feed the line under the knuckle and through the hole in the bracket, then push the spring down and connect the line. The right side goes on pretty easily, the left is very tight. I found its easier to install if you connect the lines to the caliper first, then connect them to the handle. To connect them to the handle, loosen the adjustment nut as much as possible. Connect the LEFT cable FIRST, then rotate the carrier and connect the right cable. Reconnect the wheel sensor wires and bolt the brackets down. Test the ebrakes to see if they're engaging by rotating the hub with the handle pulled. If they don't engage, tighten the nut above the carrier until they grab. Then pump the brakes a couple times to partially fill the new brake lines, you'll need to thoroughly bleed the whole system. Go gentle on them at first just to make sure everything is ok, and gradually get harder on them... they should work just fine. If you want to make sure they're engaging, use a marker and draw lines on the rotor.... they should be gone once you drive the car. Estimated time to complete 3-5 hours Have at it. If you're real hardcore and you want to have the calipers pressure tested... the line pressure is about 770 psi to the fronts, 170 psi to the rear. This is the EX w/ ABS. I don't know how different the LX/DX proportioning is. ~from: civicforums.com

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[Yoshimi]

Good thinking Batman.

[theciv]

Originally Posted by EM2_UK#1

Good thinking Batman.

to the BATGARAGE!

[elmono]

Thanks for the write-up. I did the switch yesterday. I created new curse words during the install of the driver's side e-brake cable. Other than that, smooth and straight forward.

[Yoshimi]

Looks like i stand to be corrected...

[bakerboy0642]

but the thing i still cant seem to figure out is where to buy the rear brake assembly...

[toyomatt84]

Originally Posted by bakerboy0642

but the thing i still cant seem to figure out is where to buy the rear brake assembly...

http://www.car-part.com

[fventura03]

Originally Posted by elmono

Thanks for the write-up. I did the switch yesterday. I created new curse words during the install of the driver's side e-brake cable. Other than that, smooth and straight forward.

yep, the hardest part of installing the rear discs is that ebrake cable :\. glad you got it on though, post pics

[skipbarber]

am i the only one that didnt struggle with that? put the cable on to the caliper, back out the adjuster on the e-brake as far as it goes, put the cable through, THEN attach all the brackets and readjust the cables. it was cake.

[fventura03]

i did that, dunno.

[elmono]

The end result...
[img]http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/is=Yup6aQQ%7C%3Dup6RKKt%3AxxWtUq4Pl-ofrj%3DQofrj7t%3DzrRfDUX%3AeQaQxg%3Dr%3F87KR6xqpxQ PQox0QaxeeQxv8uOc5xQQQJo00lonnlQqpfVtB%3F*KUp7BHSH qqy7XH6gXPal%7CRup6lQQ%7C/of=50,590,442[/img]

[honda917]

where did u find ep3 rear brakes from ebay, a junk yard where, i have been looking on and off for a while
thanks

[toyomatt84]

Originally Posted by honda917

where did u find ep3 rear brakes from ebay, a junk yard where, i have been looking on and off for a while
thanks

http://www.car-part.com is a search engine for junkyards in the nation.

[EM2K]

This is probably dumb question to ask but is the EP3's rotors fit 4x100?

[fventura03]

Originally Posted by USDMEM2

This is probably dumb question to ask but is the EP3's rotors fit 4x100?

02-03 ep3's are 4x100, so yes.

[honda917]

thanks nice site

[texasnick]

Originally Posted by toyomatt84

http://www.car-part.com is a search engine for junkyards in the nation.

and Canada....nice!

Bit of a n00b question, but I couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere.

What is the COMPLETE list of parts needed for this conversion, assuming it is coming from a 4x100 car. (i.e. EP3 or Canadian 1.7 EL)

My best guess is;

Rear Trailing Arm Assembly (both sides)
Brake Lines
E-Brake Cables
Calipers
Rotors
Brake Pads

Is that it? I am freaking sick of dealing with drum brakes.

Thanks in advance,

[recaroem2]

biggest problem for me is finding a 4 lug set up for the back. cant ****in find it ANYWERE

[jedi03]

im gna do the rsx-s swap on dx...should be just as fun!!!

[portaman03]

I may be parting out the disk brakes/5-lug conversion from my wrecked RSX. What are all the parts I need to remove in order to get everything ready for the 01-05 Civic guys?

I think I have an idea but I've never done this before.

Front:
rotors
pads
calipers
hubs
LCAs?
axles?

Rear:
rotors
pads
calipers
hubs
rear trailing arms?

Will I have to include the shocks and springs also?
Proportioning valve?

thanks buds

[toyomatt84]

Assuming you're referring to the '03 Type-S that's in your signature, you'll need the following:

Rear:
E-brake cable
ABS sensor & wiring (to plug connection by gas tank and in the trunk area by the right rear strut tower)
Trailing arm
Lower control arm
Knuckle
Hub
Rotor
Caliper
Brake line (to wheel well)


Front:
(If you have the K20 in your swap plans, you'll be ok with using the RSX Type-S axles. If you're just keeping the D17, you'll need to take the Type-S axles and your D17 axles to get cut and re-welded.)

Knuckle
Rotor
Caliper
Brake line (to wheel well)
ABS sensor & wiring (to plug)

For the front MacPhersons, you can do a few things:
1. Run 01-02 struts with modified knuckle bolt holes (14mm -> 16mm)
2. Run 03-05 struts without modification
3. Run the Type-S struts with the Type-S tie rod ends

For better brake feel, you might want the Booster and Master Cylinder.


PS. This thread is in the FAQ's. There was no need to bump it.

[recaroem2]

dont forget the LX/DX models do not have wheal sensors lol. so you will not need the wire off the ep3

[jdmfreak1992]

Ok so I am thinking about doing the swap but I'm confused about what you need. I have a 2004 civic vp no abs. So do I need a different proportioning valve? Also If I read this correctly you need ep3 calipers, disks, e-break cable, and break lines. Do you need to replace the rear trailing arms and hubs? I'm really confused if someone could clear this up for me that would be great. I want to keep it as a 4 lug because my wheels are 4 lugs.

[Harlowe]

You can still use your stock proportioning valve.
For the conversion you need the hub/knuckle, rotors, calipers, e-brake cables, and brake lines. You can use your stock trailing arms, but seeing you have a VP you could get ep3/rsx (or even Civic EX) trailing arms if you ever plan on running a rear swaybar. Usually much cheaper than buying the progress adapter kit.
If you are having trouble finding any parts, ep3/base rsx/ and rsx-s have the same rear calipers, e-brake cables, and brake lines. Might make it a little easier to find some things.

[jdmfreak1992]

Cool thanks,yeah some stuff I don't know how I'm going to find them but I ask because dezod started selling stuff for the conversion. But I could probably do it for a quarter of the price If I took the time to dig around in a salvage yard. I just liked the idea because all of the stuff was new.