taunt_spike

okay so i am swaping out my auto h23 for an auto h22. everyone told me that this is an easy and pretty basic swap. but i never done anything quite like this yet. first question i have is, the crankshaft pulley on the h22 has and extra rib, do i just reuse the h23 pulley and is it a direct bolt on? and the electrical and all the piping look really hard to do, what is the easiest way to deal with this? and can you list the basic steps in order to make this swap a little easier for me? thanks in advance for the quick and helpful replies.

xxmastermindxx

have a manual, helms or FSM.

keep track of all your parts, like remove bolts, bag and label them with whatever part(s) they came from.

there really is no "piping", the electrical can be a little work but to my knowledge each connector only fits where it's supposed to go.

an H22+tranny will drop right in. if you want to save future trouble, swap the auto for 5 spd, if you can. change your clutch if you do.

change out your timing belt, and depending on how old the motor you're swapping in is, oil/water pump might be a good idea.

have a helper

if i think of anything else, i'll edit.

taunt_spike

thanks, the only manual i was able to find was a chilton one and it was for 1984-95 accord/prelude. and the motor i got from hmotorsonline, so it has about 30-40k on it. i was thinking about the 5 spd conversion but i didnt have the money for that at the moment. any ideas on the pulley problemo?

xxmastermindxx

i'm not sure about an h22 pulley, but why would you want to change it to an h23 pulley? i'm pretty sure the h22 uses a wider belt, i'm pretty sure i read that from one of the guys here. why is the pulley a problem?

and yea if it has that low miles and its from HMO then you are probably good on timing belt/water/oil pump. but changing them now is more for peace of mind and so you won't have to do it later, and so you know what's been done to your motor.

taunt_spike

well the pulley is linked to another pulley located right under the alternator, and that one has one less rib. so the belt would be too wide.

xxmastermindxx

ok, so if i assume that you want to change the pulley so you can reuse the same belt, am i right? because i still don't see what your pulley "problem" is...

there shouldnt be anything from your h23 that you have to swap to your h22.

street_ride14

Sounds to me that he is swapping over his Alternator and/or his A/C compressor from his h23 to the h22. If so, just use the same belt that was on the h23 motor.

mattsnooz

As far as wiring goes just lable them as you unplug between harness and quick connectors. Identify them in some manner that will allow you to remember where they go on the swapped motor.

ilandhopr

cool man, i just did the same swap (auto h23 to auto h22a). Not too bad, and I'm just learning too. I kept the h23 ac system and compressor in, so I couldn't use the vtec 6 rib ac/alt belt. I just used a 5-rib belt like the h23 on the far inside of the crank / alt pulley, leaving an empty groove on the outside so the belt is on straight. Also the h23 belt was too long for me, I ended up using a 41.3" belt.

I used the h23 wiring harness and upper coolant housing (jdm motor didn't have that sensor). Also i am using the h23 external coil (since h22a had internal coil).

Hope the swap goes well.

taunt_spike

its almost done, but theres something im not so sure about. on teh jdm fuel rail there is a sensor on the end, since im using the h23 harness there is no plug for that sensor. so what can i do about this? whats gonna happen if i leave it unplug or just bypass it? will just be a check engine light? hopefully that doesnt take me too much more time, i should be finished tommorow afternoon.

CHK4TIX

use the fuel rail off of the h23 and not the one off the h22.

taunt_spike

ok, i got the motor in, but there are now a few problems. i cant figure where all the vacum lines go, so if anybody has a pic of that, that will be great. also the old h23 downpipe will not come off...and the car wont start. sometimes you can hear it trying to start then sometimes all you hear is a click.

taunt_spike

also i just realized that there is a plug on the h22 spark system thats not on the h23 and where the plug went on the h23 there is none on the h22. so do i just put the h23 distributer and such on the h22? thanks for the help and sorry for the noobish questions

Altilude

yeah use the dizzy/coil from the h23.

taunt_spike

thanks, btw is that mugen prelude in your avatar yours? looks veeerrrri niiice

taunt_spike

ok so i need some quick answers on a few tihngs...

the h23 harness had no plug for this, what is it anyways? and what is that whole unit? cause its where the h23 external dizzycoil needs to be and i cant figure where to bolt it...

where does this vacum line go?
and do i just bolt up the h23 dizzy/coil without splicing? cause i just set it up and the car still wont start, it just clicks when i turn the ignition

Altilude

the thing you have circled in red is your vtec solenoid - yout need to run a wire from it to the ecu pinned to a4. (some preludes come PRE-wired for vtec, so you may find this wire near your passenger side shock tower - depending on year).
you will need to build a bracket to go off that aft camseal area to hold your dizzy, any piece of bent metal will do (you can get fussy later).

the thing below that thing you have circled in red, is the vtec pressure switch - you seem to have it plugged in already which is odd, anyways one wire has to go to ground (just ground it to the nearest stud on the engine block - the other has to go to D6 on the ecu. it doesn't matter which - as it's a "switch" but i'd run the black one to ground cuz i'm fussy like that.

as for your dizzy, it should have connectors? don't get what you are saying there.

and thanks, that's my baby in the avatar. soon to get bpi stacked! only it's to freakn hot to work outside right now lol.

taunt_spike

yea its gettin almost 90 here... and about the v-tec presure switch, should i already have it attached? i was just putting any wires that fit together togetherm but that plug is from the h23 harness so, shold it not be there? and i have a 95 btw, so would that be pre-wired for v-tec? thanks for helping me, this plus the heat is more than i thought it would be.

Altilude

yeah if it comes out off the main harness for the h23, I doubt it's for the pressure switch - it's most likely (judging by color) for one of the thermostat switches - maybe someone else can clarify.

I'm also not positive on the years that came pre-wired for vtec - but your best bet is too look around your passenger shock tower for dead end wires, it's not the blue connector however - that is for a tach hookup. barring that - truly the easiest way is to just repin - run two wires thru the firewall (tape it to a coat hangar and shove it thru the gromet in the firewall where all the other wires go) and splice a4 - to the vtec solenoid, and d6 to that pressure switch and you're golden. I take it you got a p13 ecu with your swap?

oh and with your starting issues - the car should atleast crank? is the starter turning the car over? (so to speak haha).

good luck

taunt_spike

so do i have to go buy a vtec pressure switch? i was told this was gonna be a simple drop in and run, guess its not. all i hear is a click when i turn the ignition, sometimes you can hear it trying to start. also the downpipe bolts on the catayltic converter wont come off, any tips on this? i feel like just hacking it off with a sawzaw and calling it a day

CHK4TIX

no if you bought an h22 then you dont need to buy the vtec pressure switch, unless someone stole yours. its located right behind the distributor

taunt_spike

ok last final question possibly, i got the motor running now, but it wont move....what needs to be checked?