Honda and Acura Technical Forums

Bense · 06-08-2007, 01:57 PM

To those guys that are doing swaps that the lowest point of their oil pan is no longer in stock location, I found these nuts from honda that will assist you in your needs.

Yes, you can use any normal M14-1.5 nut, but they are a little harder to come by and they won't have a flange on it like these:

Part numbers are in the pictures:
#1 90213-S5A-003, sells for $0.50 off of hondapartsdeals.com

#2, 90213-S3Y-000, sells for $1.53 off of hondapartsdeals.com

#3, 90382-SJK-000, sells for $1.94 off of hondapartsdeals.com

From left to right, #1, #2, #3

If you don't know what this is for, you don't need it.

I'd reccomend #2 IMHO.

This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Honda-Tech!

88ED8 · 06-08-2007, 02:20 PM

and what plug/"drain" bolt would one use?

Bense · 06-08-2007, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88ED8

and what plug/"drain" bolt would one use?

Stock. That's why I found these M14-1.5 nuts

redzcstandardhatch · 06-08-2007, 08:54 PM

same nut i just used on mine! where was this 3 days ago! haha

you rock my socks bense

sauceja · 06-08-2007, 09:23 PM

What bit did you use to redrill hole and how did you weld it on? tig, wire?

Did you have to strip the black paint to get to clean metal??

Did you locate on inside of pan or outside? Outside seems more realistic for oil drainage but the inside of oem pans don't allow for complete oil draining which sucks.

Those are my questions.

In for pics of completed project pan.

Bense · 06-08-2007, 09:59 PM

I dunno, 9/16" or something. It doesn't really matter if you use the stock plug + this nut. Weld it on the outside. Just don't put it on the bottom like me, i slammed it into the ground and ruined my pan so i had to buy a new F23 one for my F20B.

I will have to pull this pan off to drain all the oil for now. But i'm gonna get another one and keep this one as a spare in the back of my hatch, my pan sits that low.

sauceja · 06-09-2007, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bense

I dunno, 9/16" or something. It doesn't really matter if you use the stock plug + this nut. Weld it on the outside. Just don't put it on the bottom like me, i slammed it into the ground and ruined my pan so i had to buy a new F23 one for my F20B.

I will have to pull this pan off to drain all the oil for now. But i'm gonna get another one and keep this one as a spare in the back of my hatch, my pan sits that low.

Sorry but I LOL'd

I saw the picture in the H2B thread of your pan and WOW. Kinda low.

So just drill hole and weld nut on front side of pan about 1/16 inch above the scrape line and your good but don't hit a curb,bump,pothole or your Fukked.

Or fabricate a skidplate

and modify it to act as a jdm radiator flow plate to force air over your radiator and exhaust manifold to keep the coolness flowing.

Projects coming along great Bense. Now if only I could get my expensivemans R finished.

Bense · 06-10-2007, 05:48 AM

thanks bro

And I just added prices above the pics

#1, 90213-S5A-003, sells for $0.50 off of hondapartsdeals.com
#2, 90213-S3Y-000, sells for $1.53 off of hondapartsdeals.com
#3, 90382-SJK-000, sells for $1.94 off of hondapartsdeals.com

2point2 · 06-11-2007, 05:21 AM

Good post. This also applied to many "H2H" EFs.

I'm currently using a power steering pumped rigged to a drill with a tube shoved into to low part of the oil pan. sucks the oil out.

HeikDiesel · 06-11-2007, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bense

I dunno, 9/16" or something. It doesn't really matter if you use the stock plug + this nut. Weld it on the outside. Just don't put it on the bottom like me, i slammed it into the ground and ruined my pan so i had to buy a new F23 one for my F20B.

I will have to pull this pan off to drain all the oil for now. But i'm gonna get another one and keep this one as a spare in the back of my hatch, my pan sits that low.

Hey so I need a f23 pan gasket for my f20b. What year and model of USDM accord came with those?

Bense · 06-11-2007, 11:18 AM

98-02 had the f23. If you have the steel pan it doesn't use any gasket it at all, It just uses honda bond all the way around

HeikDiesel · 06-11-2007, 11:26 AM

Im pretty sure it was alum but all it had was honda bond so I guess I better go give it the magnet check

RCautoworks · 06-16-2007, 12:34 PM

Good post

, thanks Bense

9WON4 · 06-19-2007, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCautoworks

Good post

, thanks Bense

06-08-2007, 08:54 PM	#4
redzcstandardhatch Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: grand rapids/chicago, usa Posts: 5,494	same nut i just used on mine! where was this 3 days ago! haha you rock my socks bense __________________ custom EF traction bar and a cheap K24 for sale too! PM! WTB: useable h22 of h23 block/girdle..no crank needed

06-08-2007, 09:23 PM	#5
sauceja Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: EAST TEXAS Posts: 4,224	Re: (redzcstandardhatch) What bit did you use to redrill hole and how did you weld it on? tig, wire? Did you have to strip the black paint to get to clean metal?? Did you locate on inside of pan or outside? Outside seems more realistic for oil drainage but the inside of oem pans don't allow for complete oil draining which sucks. Those are my questions. In for pics of completed project pan. __________________ My Build FS: honda Service Manuals and ETM Leaving the game for a bit! I will return stronger!!

06-08-2007, 09:59 PM	#6
Bense Moderator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Clemson, South Carolina! Posts: 9,218	Re: (sauceja) I dunno, 9/16" or something. It doesn't really matter if you use the stock plug + this nut. Weld it on the outside. Just don't put it on the bottom like me, i slammed it into the ground and ruined my pan so i had to buy a new F23 one for my F20B. I will have to pull this pan off to drain all the oil for now. But i'm gonna get another one and keep this one as a spare in the back of my hatch, my pan sits that low. __________________ http://people.clemson.edu/~ABense

06-10-2007, 05:48 AM	#8
Bense Moderator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Clemson, South Carolina! Posts: 9,218	Re: (sauceja) thanks bro And I just added prices above the pics #1, 90213-S5A-003, sells for $0.50 off of hondapartsdeals.com #2, 90213-S3Y-000, sells for $1.53 off of hondapartsdeals.com #3, 90382-SJK-000, sells for $1.94 off of hondapartsdeals.com __________________ http://people.clemson.edu/~ABense

06-11-2007, 05:21 AM	#9
2point2 Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Kitchener, Ontario, CANADA Posts: 5,604	Re: (Bense) Good post. This also applied to many "H2H" EFs. I'm currently using a power steering pumped rigged to a drill with a tube shoved into to low part of the oil pan. sucks the oil out. __________________ Turbocharged CRX w/Stock H22 10.73 @ 137mph Pics and Info

06-08-2007, 02:20 PM	#2
88ED8 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,975	Re: Drain plug relocation nut (Bense) and what plug/"drain" bolt would one use? __________________ AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator for sale!!! $85 shipped http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2684333

06-11-2007, 11:18 AM	#11
Bense Moderator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Clemson, South Carolina! Posts: 9,218	Re: (HeikDiesel) 98-02 had the f23. If you have the steel pan it doesn't use any gasket it at all, It just uses honda bond all the way around __________________ http://people.clemson.edu/~ABense

06-16-2007, 12:34 PM	#13
RCautoworks Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 17,217	Re: (HeikDiesel) Good post , thanks Bense

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search