24psi

There is a wastegate, I would ASSume you can do gear dependant boost control with the right setup.

fastd16y7

sweet

HiProfile

SC's allow you to instantly modulate boost via throttle. So most people will end up with a bit more power than they need in 1st & 2nd gear and feather the throttle.

Roger's design is to run a enough to spin 4th gear, and use a wastegate as a pressure relief valve on the intake to change boost on the fly for lower gears. He also had them make the crank pulley changable with the 2-piece design and auto-tensioner. I think the giant pulley pictured is enough for 18psi on a 2.0L race engine.


Something that may be worth looking into for them is a modified M62 kit. It would be cheaper without the custom nosecone, and much better than a JRSC m62 due to a much better case and a bigger intercooler. The cheapest you can find a new JRSC with an LHT cooler added would be more than Roger's kit with a M62 in a custom case. The belt system is much more effective, can run air or water cooling, and may be easier to install.

Gold DA9

Its after Dec. 15, but im sure he is busy with lots of Christmas stuff.

rmcdaniels

Sorry for the long time with no update, but work and family have had me busy.

I have no idea when I'll get my race car running again, so a test dummy has been found. Much thanks to Phantasm ( www.phantasmusa.com ) for letting me use their race car to guinea pig this. It's got a fully built B18 that regularly sees over 600 WHP, so it should handle this easily. Here's the car:


There's tons of room in a DC chassis; I've removed the Full-Race ramhorn and Turbonetics GTK that normally reside here:


Here's the alternator pulley; it's OEM-sized steel and press-fit onto the crankshaft. I used the Fluidamper installer kit to press it on, and the same kit can be used to remove it:



The kit has two supercharger drive pulleys, a 6" and an 8" pulley. They are both 10-rib anodized aluminum. As you can see in the second pic, the 8" pulley will require some slight clearancing of the frame rail to get it on there. That pic was taken with the motor raised back up to stock height, so the pulley fit in there, but it was up against the frame rail. A few minutes with an air hammer should fix it up, but we'll test it first with the 6" pulley, which has plenty of clearance. There are also two blower pulleys, so between them we should have options for a variety of different boost levels. Phantasm has an in-house dyno, so we'll try all four combinations of pulleys and see what they yield:



Here's the mounting bracket, but when I got to this point I couldn't find the mounting bolts that Charles sent me and it was getting late, so I called it a day. I'll be back tomorrow to get more done on it:

Smokinsax

nice....its been too long without an update. This is finally coming together!

Gold DA9

MORE MORE MORE!!!!

92cxyd

I did the same thing with my SC14 s/c I run the s/c of the A/C section of the crank pulley.

Used a modified d16 alt. bracket for the lower mount bolted to where the A/C lower was bolted.

Ran long bolt through both mounts and had a smooth pulley spaced out to keep the belt from floating.

Used the P/S tensioner to tension up the belt.

I run my pulleys 1.6:1 ratio (A/C sect. of crank pulley to A/C clutch on the SC14)

On a stock D16z6 I could pull on motor cycles all the way up to 100mph.

10 to 12 psi 1.5k to 7k rpms (I keep the engine from redlining as much as possible)

Smokinsax

/\/\/\this post is worthless w/o pics

BigZeke5

Very interested. Subscribed! Also interested in purchasing this kit. Let me know when this kit is availiable. I didnt read the whole thread. Will soon when I get a chance.

Dirty Corey.

Omfg update please!

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the update Roger! Can't wait to see it all get worked out!

EARLdaSQUIRREL

finally an update, waiting patiently for #'s

speed1

Update pls. Is the product ready for street. How much? How efficient is your set up than vortech? As you may guess, I am currently running Vortech on my 2.0; putting down 388 whp on 91 octane.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

In for the results, kits sound promising.

garz

JDogg - I am building a supercharged setup on a K20A Honda that will be running 9psi boost on a 11.5:1 CR ( 98 RON fuel )
this has been shown to be relaiable if the mapping is done well - but there's not alot of room for error
as a result i am very interested to understand tip in detonation better -
while we are waiting for updates from Roger's awesome build - could you perhaps give a bit more detailed explantion of what it is and how to manage it.
many thanks indeed

JDogg

With your setup it probably wont be an issue. K-series motors are a little easier in that department.

If we ran rogers car in vtec 100% of the time there was no tip in detonation, Its not good to be in vtec 100% of the time. at wot it made more power from idle up on the big cam, so the best way to set it was for vtec to engage as soon as there was boost. the dynamics of this caused the detonation, so i used the vtec pressure switch to tell the ecu when exactly vtec came in, then pull a little timing for a split second. That seemed to cure the tip in detonation. I could add accel fuel until it went away, but then throttle response suffered.

He also had turbo cams which dont have much overlap to build as much cylinder pressure as possible. With a stock cam i dont think we would have had the tip in detonation issue at all.

garz

Thanks JDogg - so if i understand correctly - " tip in " refers to detonation caused by the sudden change in cylinder filling caused by the second cams engaging ?

for info - i will be using the JDM cams which have been show to work well with superchargers and plan to set Vtech to come in at around 3000RPM if there is boost.

JDogg

i didnt explain very well..

tip in detonation occurs typically when you go from a small throttle position to wide open very quickly.

on rogers the only way to make the car drivable with a little bit of economy (he drove the car to the track, etc) was to have the wacky vtec setup, which made the tip in detonation problem worse.

garz

thanks for the additional explanation JDogg - thats interesting - cant quite figure why it happens - is it becuase the chamber is hotter from leaner mixtures and more ignition advance in low throttle conditions - then it suddenly gets more fuel and air hitting it as you open the throttle - and the hot chamber moves it into detonation?

stock95coupe

This is weird - I had an idea about tip-in detonation when I woke up, almost like a waking dream.

I was thinking that the FPR can't react fast enough, and that there's a momentary drop in fuel pressure. It would be similar to a wet nitrous setup where the no2 beats the fuel to the valves by a fraction. You wouldn't see it on a turbo car since initial boost comes on far slower. Has anyone logged MAP pressure vs fuel pressure on a SC car, or tried tuning it with the FPR line disconnected (assuming a very fast datalogger)?

One thing I've seen is that fmu setups use a bleeder to start raising fuel pressure in vacuume to prevent tip-in detonation.

Veris

Tip in happens because the map sensor and ecu can't respond fast enough to the instant boost.

Hondata, chrome, etc deals with it by dumping fuel and pulling ignition timing when the tps changes quickly. I know hondata doesn't allow enough fuel richening. Chrome has better tip in support, but has other disadvantges...

The FPR doesn't make much difference in fuel delivery. Adding 10 psi to a base of 40 psi is only worth 11% fuel.

EARLdaSQUIRREL

i had no idea he was running turbo cams, if they are like 99% of the turbo cams out there he is losing a good amount of power, hell b16 cams make more power than most turbo cams

rmcdaniels

I finally got some more stuff done. It took a while to get all the right bolts together, but a combination of McMaster/Carr and Ace Hardware got it done.

The good news is that it fits! At least it fits in a EG/DC chassis. There's plenty of room up front, although it's a tight fit on the driver's side. I got the 8" crank pulley installed, but it was up against the frame rail, so the first dyno run will be with the 6" pulley. The blower pulleys bolt to a steel alternator pulley that is pressed onto the crankshaft, so it just takes a few minutes to swap them out. After that we'll clearance the frame rail just a wee bit and try the 8" pulley. I got the outlet plumbing done, but still have to figure out the inlet plumbing. For now, we'll just run it with the TB after the blower, but I've got a 90mm Infiniti TB here that I'll be fitting in there eventually. The belt tensioner setup is a thing of beauty, almost completely wrapped, perfectly lined up, and easy to get the belt on/off of it. Here's a few pictures from today:

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Roger, fantastic pics and awesome work! I cannot wait to see this in action!!