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#26 | |||||
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: honky in, nc, usa
Posts: 2,632
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Earl Laskey "Making Heaven Faster" buy this clean ef hatch http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2671322 |
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#27 | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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Quote:
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#28 | |
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Quote:
haha x 10001384922 i still have one fender to finish sanding and the hatch i forgot about and the car is painted already hahahaha awsome write up man i jsut read it
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91crx si- junked 91crx dx-Sold! 2006 Audi A4 Tein coilovers,Custom FMIC Apr stage 2 software, 2.5" testpipe, 3" custom single exhaust, South Bend stage 2 clutch, 16lb lightwieght flywheel |
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#29 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: honky in, nc, usa
Posts: 2,632
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drop coat on the base coat, where you kinda fan a thin top coat so you don't end up with lines. and i think you should add a little bit about tech sheets, why poeple should ask for them and read them.
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Earl Laskey "Making Heaven Faster" buy this clean ef hatch http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2671322 |
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#30 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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Thanks man. I am going to add more to it.
I am right now working a a chart of the different grits of sandpaper and how to use them. I know there is alot of people wondering what grit to use to do this and to do that... Anything else you guys can think of?
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#31 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: honky in, nc, usa
Posts: 2,632
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sealer, when and why to use.
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Earl Laskey "Making Heaven Faster" buy this clean ef hatch http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2671322 |
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#32 |
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Junior Member
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questiong for harmonator or anyone who knows, .......sealer and primer......dont they serve the same purpose....i have read a lot of different forums and a lot of people just use one or the other.......???
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#33 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: honky in, nc, usa
Posts: 2,632
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Kinda, they both make a uniform color to paint over but sealer, seals. Sealer makes a barrier in the paint layers to keep chemical and stuff in and out. primer can provide a good “bite” onto a surface like epoxy primer does to bare metal and it can also come in a high build form to work as a filler. Correct me if I’m wrong but you can also get primer/sealer. I’m sure harmon will correct this info if it is wrong.
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Earl Laskey "Making Heaven Faster" buy this clean ef hatch http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2671322 |
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#34 | |||
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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Quote:
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Primers come in different types- primer, primer-sealer, primer-filler,epoxy-primers, etc(cannot remember them all). A plain primer is a thin undercoat made to provide good adhesion for your topcoat. Primers can be used when the surface is smooth and there is no protectial problem with "bleeding". You may ask, well what is "bleeding"...Bleeding is where your colors in the undercoat/old paint seep into your topcoat. Which in turn will discolor your new paint. A self-etcing primer has a type of acid in it to treat bare metal so that the primer will adhere properly. A sealer is a innercoat between the topcoat and the primer/old finish to prevent the bleeding you can sometimes get. Sealers are different from primer-sealers because they cannot be used as a primer. Sealers are sprayed over a primer/old finish. A primer-sealer is a undercoat that improves adhesion of the topcoat and also seals the old painted surfaces that have been sanded. So it pretty much solves two potential problems(adhesion and bleed) at once. A primer-filler is a VERY thick form of primer. It is used when a very pitted or rough surface must be filled and smoothed There is also a epoxy-primer, which is a two part primer that cures harder and faster then normal primers. It greatly increases body filler adhesion and corrosion over metal. The epoxy primers are the closets thing to OEM primer. A thing to remember about primers and your topcoat. Always use a complete system. Meaning all the materials(primer, paint, etc) are compatible and made by the same company. You do this because they are designed to work properly with each other. If you mix materials from different manufacturers, you can run into BIG problems. I hope this helps you guys and this concludes todays leason kids..haha Just let me know if you guys dont really understand any of it or whatever. I think I am also going to add this to the orginal post. Thanks guys.
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#35 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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PRIMERS AND SEALERS section has been added!
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#36 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Winnetka, Calif, USA
Posts: 2,351
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The following terms are used differently depending on who you talk to, but here is how I use them.
A "sealer" is not porous and seals the material that is under it. If sprayed over metal, it prevents any rust from forming. If sprayed over a prior paint job, it prevents "bleeding" from it. I like using PPG "DP". It's a two part epoxy sealer and you can get it in a couple different colors. A "primer" is used to aid adhesion of the paint that is put over it. You normally wouldn't put the base coat directly on metal. A "filler" is a primer that goes on thick and is used to provide a surface that is easy to sand and fills small waves. I like using PPG K200. As for "tech sheets", they are available at your automotive paint supply shop. They tell you mixing rates and also recommended time between coats (and other stuff). If your shop doesn't have them, get them off the web. You pay a lot for quality paint and should follow all the manufacturers recommendations. (damn, Harm entered his response while I was typing) Wes |
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#37 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,442
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<FONT COLOR="pink">></FONT><FONT COLOR="limegreen">ONeAeSTHeTiCS</FONT><FONT COLOR="pink"><</FONT> <FONT COLOR="bluegreen">MUGEN|J'S RACING|SPOON|</FONT> |
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#38 | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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Quote:
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#39 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Garbage Grove, CA
Posts: 3,442
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very informative
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#40 |
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Junior Member
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Im just going to add that if u put bondo or filler over rust it will eventually all fall off..if u fill in any hole that is in the metal..always put a piece of duck tape or any kind of tape that will prevent water to splash on the exposed metal..if the metal starts to rust from the back up it will eventually pop the whole piece of bondo off..i didnt read the whole thing so i dk if anybody put that up there already. peace
Chris
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1990 Honda Crx Si- DD 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse- Sold 1993 Mazda MX-6- sold 1991 Honda Accord-traded 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse- Sold Christopher Rogers http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif |
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#41 | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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Quote:
If someone is going to do it the right way then replacing any "hole" would be be best done with metal. Sorry but I couldnt put 2+K into bodywork and paint just to hope that "duck tape" holds. Thanks for the insight though.
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#42 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Winnetka, Calif, USA
Posts: 2,351
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Here is a link to a page I wrote where I welded up a hole;
http://www.performanceforum.co....html Wes |
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#43 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: CA, US
Posts: 2,006
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Wow, great write up
. The first post in this thread should be turned into a cumulative post...from painting to welding up a hole or quarter panel . Great job guys .
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EFsquad member: 010 |
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#44 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Nah man, Yemen
Posts: 3,943
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Great write-up. My car's going into paint soon and I may end up doing a bunch of the prep work to cut costs now that this is up.
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FS: Polished Mugen M7s, 15x6.5, 4x100 |
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#45 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sac City, Ca, US
Posts: 371
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Good post.
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hhhmmmmmmmm veryyy uninterestingggg |
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#46 |
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Is it in you?
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: City of Angels
Posts: 11,843
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good thread , thanks for takin the time to write it
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#47 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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Thanks everyone. I will try adding more stuff on here to help you guys out
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#48 | |
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Member
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Quote:
Do you think you could aslo add like a list of what kind and type and recommendations of tools you would need/should use/should have also for bodywork? If you did alread awesome. sorry, I didn't completely read thru the whole post. I was going to once i was ready to take down notes.
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TeamABM-HellaDumpedDivision Analyn's Life Story... EHSquad#Neenathieveshttp://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthdown.gif WTB:BenenCFDuckbill&lip I need a Job in Modesto,CA. hook me up. http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/embeer.gif |
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#49 | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: My Garage in, Ky
Posts: 3,266
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Quote:
So far I am going to add.. a chart of the different types of sandpaper and there uses fiberglass/ how to use it tools safety
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88 Crx Dx- Sold 89 Crx Hf- Rip (parts car) 90 Crx Si- Current 91 Crx Si- Current Myspace |
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#50 | |
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Member
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Quote:
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TeamABM-HellaDumpedDivision Analyn's Life Story... EHSquad#Neenathieveshttp://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthdown.gif WTB:BenenCFDuckbill&lip I need a Job in Modesto,CA. hook me up. http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/embeer.gif |
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