Correct shim size for H22 LMA in B series engine???
04-21-2007, 08:02 PM
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Correct shim size for H22 LMA in B series engine???
Correct shim size for H22 LMA in B series engine??? Anyone has used the H22 lost motion assembly in the B series engine and knows the correct size. Can they be bought like at HomDepot. Thanks.
04-26-2007, 06:02 PM
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Re: Correct shim size for H22 LMA in B series engine??? (Ravage70)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ravage70 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hardened washers?
not needed...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have a lack of experience with this set-up then...
not needed...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have a lack of experience with this set-up then...
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04-26-2007, 06:13 PM
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Re: Correct shim size for H22 LMA in B series engine??? (2point6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have a lack of experience with this set-up then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Scott WTF do you know about an H22.Yours barely makes over 270hp and its street driven.
You have a lack of experience with this set-up then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Scott WTF do you know about an H22.Yours barely makes over 270hp and its street driven.
04-26-2007, 06:15 PM
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Re: Correct shim size for H22 LMA in B series engine??? (2point6)
I run this setup on a b16 with home depot washers and they look fine 12k later...
Not needed
Not needed
04-26-2007, 07:02 PM
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Re: Correct shim size for H22 LMA in B series engine??? (Ravage70)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ravage70 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run this setup on a b16 with home depot washers and they look fine 12k later...
Not needed</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you pulled them out at 12 K just to look at the washers? Doubtfull. I have actually tried using other washers a while back and guess what? They were worn after I pulled the engine apart. It happens. I recomend spending a few cents more for hardened. I will let the readers decide.
Not needed</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you pulled them out at 12 K just to look at the washers? Doubtfull. I have actually tried using other washers a while back and guess what? They were worn after I pulled the engine apart. It happens. I recomend spending a few cents more for hardened. I will let the readers decide.
04-29-2007, 09:02 AM
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Don't believe me but I speak from experience, maybe just as you do too. All I'm saying is that if you can't find hardened don't murder yourself over it...
08-22-2007, 12:57 PM
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Re: (Ravage70)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ravage70 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't believe me but I speak from experience, maybe just as you do too. All I'm saying is that if you can't find hardened don't murder yourself over it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is to your experience... BLAH.
These shims were put in by a competing shop with only 5K miles on them. They started as .040" thick. As you can see they wear out.
Don't listen to me though... it is your engine, not mine.
GET HARDENED WASHERS!
Here is to your experience... BLAH.
These shims were put in by a competing shop with only 5K miles on them. They started as .040" thick. As you can see they wear out.
Don't listen to me though... it is your engine, not mine.
GET HARDENED WASHERS!
08-22-2007, 01:16 PM
#13
Scott doesn't it suck when you get grease under freshly clipped fingernails?
I hate that, you have to look at it for like 2 weeks unless you pry your nails up to clean out under there.
Sometimes I stare at my fingernails and use telekinesis to make them grow faster so I can clip them and get the grease out
The guy in this thread has a horrible argument, why risk it for $1? ugh...
I hate that, you have to look at it for like 2 weeks unless you pry your nails up to clean out under there.
Sometimes I stare at my fingernails and use telekinesis to make them grow faster so I can clip them and get the grease out
The guy in this thread has a horrible argument, why risk it for $1? ugh...
08-22-2007, 01:20 PM
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Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Scott doesn't it suck when you get grease under freshly clipped fingernails?
I hate that, you have to look at it for like 2 weeks unless you pry your nails up to clean out under there.
Sometimes I stare at my fingernails and use telekinesis to make them grow faster so I can clip them and get the grease out
The guy in this thread has a horrible argument, why risk it for $1? ugh...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are freshly chewed... HAHA!
I hate that, you have to look at it for like 2 weeks unless you pry your nails up to clean out under there.
Sometimes I stare at my fingernails and use telekinesis to make them grow faster so I can clip them and get the grease out
The guy in this thread has a horrible argument, why risk it for $1? ugh...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are freshly chewed... HAHA!
05-27-2008, 08:01 PM
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Re: (jdmdohcek98)
Wow, if it did that to steel washers, what did it do to the aluminum? I've seen some wear to the LMA sockets before but never thought much about it. I guess I'll start measuring how much they're worn from now on.
05-28-2008, 03:47 AM
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Re: (jdmdohcek98)
i had to use .040-.045" shim on the intake side. and .070-.075" on the exhaust side of my first gen B16 head.
there was way to much clearance on the exhaust side between the vtec lifter and base circle of the camshaft. the LMA bore must be deeper on the exhaust side.
to everyone planning to shove the H22 LMA's with washers/shim. dont just stick them in and run them. actually use a feeler gauge and measure the lash clearance on the vtec lobe. it should be zero lash or very close to zero lash.
there was way to much clearance on the exhaust side between the vtec lifter and base circle of the camshaft. the LMA bore must be deeper on the exhaust side.
to everyone planning to shove the H22 LMA's with washers/shim. dont just stick them in and run them. actually use a feeler gauge and measure the lash clearance on the vtec lobe. it should be zero lash or very close to zero lash.
05-28-2008, 08:11 PM
#21
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Re: (CR-V-tech)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CR-V-tech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so a lil bit off topic but why and the hell would anyone put h22 lma's into a bseries v-tec head?????? just wondering???</TD></TR></TABLE>
cost.
cost.
05-29-2008, 04:04 AM
#23
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Re: (CR-V-tech)
They also provide extra travel (until coil bind) and a wider articulation "pad" than the older B16 LMAs which can cause issues with big VTEC profiles.
8 Prelude LMAs * $8 = $64
8 ITR LMAs * $22 = $176
difference of $112.
Around here that's almost an hour and a half of dyno time. Some of these guys may be cheap but that does not mean that they are stupid.
Pirate
8 Prelude LMAs * $8 = $64
8 ITR LMAs * $22 = $176
difference of $112.
Around here that's almost an hour and a half of dyno time. Some of these guys may be cheap but that does not mean that they are stupid.
Pirate
05-29-2008, 12:44 PM
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Re: (rebo0t)
so is it just the hydraulic assy that you use or do you use the follower arms as well!
pirate good lookin out man! this sounds very interesting i'm going to run jun stage 3's do you think i'm a candidate for this upgrade?
pirate good lookin out man! this sounds very interesting i'm going to run jun stage 3's do you think i'm a candidate for this upgrade?