[FAQ] HID Wiring Diagrams
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[FAQ] HID Wiring Diagrams
Since some people don't search, or get accounts at HiD Planet
I decided to write one up myself.
Taken from my previous writeup: [FAQ] Fog lights General Question Thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Halogen Fog Light Bulbs – Watts, Amps and Voltage
The regular fogs use 12v 55w Bulbs this is a draw of ~4.6amps (55w/12v=4.58333amps)
Since both fogs are on the same circuit the total load is actually 110w. This translates to a draw of ~9 amps.
However, brighter after-market bulbs are usually 12v 100w bulbs this is a draw of ~8amps (100w/12v=8.333amps)
Since both fogs are on the same circuit the total load is actually 200w a total of ~17amps!
The fuse in the after-market fog-lights is rated at 15amps!
A draw of 17amps should blow the fuse, however the load is actually less than 17amps due to resistance in the wiring and variance in voltage which explains why the fuse does not blow.
AWG – Wire Size and Fuses Dictates the Max Amp Load
17amps is too big of a draw for 18ga wiring, it must be upgraded to something thicker, and since wires are only easily found in 2ga stepping 16ga is the cheapest step up.
The 16ga is normally rated at 22amps, 14ga at 28amps,12ga at 44amps and 10ga at 55amps. All this information can be found from this website: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
* Yes there are other factors that determine max amps on a wire - but to make things simpler: larger gauge more amps. *</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please Read Suspended-Hatch's: [How-To] Car Security
This thread explains how to do basic wiring correctly, and how to protect your investment.
================================================== ===
So to start off, in general your aftermarket HIDs are wired up like this:
The Blue wires should be a minimum of 18AWG.
The Black wires should be a minimum of 18AWG if grounded separately, but at the same point on the body.
Below are the most common wiring setups found in Hondas.
The Red wire, should be a minimum of 14AWG this is because of the total 30amp draw and the distance it has to cover from the battery to the headlamp ballasts.
The more distance the wire has to cover, the greater the resistance...to ensure that you get proper conductivity refer to the charts at the 12volt.
If you are running halogen high beams, a hybrid H4 setup (the DENJI retrofit for example), then you might want to consider running those on their own circuit instead of a shared circuit with your HIDs.
To explain why you should run the halogen high beams on their own circuit, we must find out how many amps they draw.
To calculate total Amperage load of a circuit, add up all the amps that will connect to that one circuit. The total Amperage Draw will tell you what size wire you must run, and what fuse to use.
IE: Ballasts + Halogen Bulbs = Total Amperage Draw
Left Ballast (15A) + Right Ballast (15A) = 30A
Left Halogen Highbeam(55W) + Right Halogen Highbeam(55W) = 110W
110W / 12V = ~9A
30A + 9A = 39A
If you are running Halogen Highbeams, I suggest that you make a separate circuit for it.
To make a separate circuit for you Halogen Highbeams, you can follow the diagram below.
L(55W) + R(55W) = 110W -> 110W / 12V = ~9A -> Fuse(10A) Wire(20AWG)
L(60W) + R(60W) = 120W -> 120W / 12V = 10A -> Fuse(10A) Wire(20AWG)
L(90W) + R(90W) = 180W -> 180W / 12V = 15A -> Fuse(15A) Wire(18AWG)
L(100W) + R(100W) = 200W -> 200W / 12V = ~17A -> Fuse(20A) Wire(16AWG)
L(130W) + R(130W) = 260W -> 260W / 12V = ~22A -> Fuse(25A) Wire(14AWG)
Now of course there are more details to it, but this is just for quick reference.
And if the diagrams at HiD Planet give you a headache.
Please go to HiD Planet and register an account. That way you can read their HIDPlanet University Section that will answer all of your questions in detail.
Modified by bpr0422 at 10:50 PM 1/23/2007
Modified by bpr0422 at 10:51 PM 1/23/2007
I decided to write one up myself.
Taken from my previous writeup: [FAQ] Fog lights General Question Thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Halogen Fog Light Bulbs – Watts, Amps and Voltage
The regular fogs use 12v 55w Bulbs this is a draw of ~4.6amps (55w/12v=4.58333amps)
Since both fogs are on the same circuit the total load is actually 110w. This translates to a draw of ~9 amps.
However, brighter after-market bulbs are usually 12v 100w bulbs this is a draw of ~8amps (100w/12v=8.333amps)
Since both fogs are on the same circuit the total load is actually 200w a total of ~17amps!
The fuse in the after-market fog-lights is rated at 15amps!
A draw of 17amps should blow the fuse, however the load is actually less than 17amps due to resistance in the wiring and variance in voltage which explains why the fuse does not blow.
AWG – Wire Size and Fuses Dictates the Max Amp Load
17amps is too big of a draw for 18ga wiring, it must be upgraded to something thicker, and since wires are only easily found in 2ga stepping 16ga is the cheapest step up.
The 16ga is normally rated at 22amps, 14ga at 28amps,12ga at 44amps and 10ga at 55amps. All this information can be found from this website: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
* Yes there are other factors that determine max amps on a wire - but to make things simpler: larger gauge more amps. *</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please Read Suspended-Hatch's: [How-To] Car Security
This thread explains how to do basic wiring correctly, and how to protect your investment.
================================================== ===
So to start off, in general your aftermarket HIDs are wired up like this:
The Blue wires should be a minimum of 18AWG.
The Black wires should be a minimum of 18AWG if grounded separately, but at the same point on the body.
Below are the most common wiring setups found in Hondas.
The Red wire, should be a minimum of 14AWG this is because of the total 30amp draw and the distance it has to cover from the battery to the headlamp ballasts.
The more distance the wire has to cover, the greater the resistance...to ensure that you get proper conductivity refer to the charts at the 12volt.
If you are running halogen high beams, a hybrid H4 setup (the DENJI retrofit for example), then you might want to consider running those on their own circuit instead of a shared circuit with your HIDs.
To explain why you should run the halogen high beams on their own circuit, we must find out how many amps they draw.
To calculate total Amperage load of a circuit, add up all the amps that will connect to that one circuit. The total Amperage Draw will tell you what size wire you must run, and what fuse to use.
IE: Ballasts + Halogen Bulbs = Total Amperage Draw
Left Ballast (15A) + Right Ballast (15A) = 30A
Left Halogen Highbeam(55W) + Right Halogen Highbeam(55W) = 110W
110W / 12V = ~9A
30A + 9A = 39A
If you are running Halogen Highbeams, I suggest that you make a separate circuit for it.
To make a separate circuit for you Halogen Highbeams, you can follow the diagram below.
L(55W) + R(55W) = 110W -> 110W / 12V = ~9A -> Fuse(10A) Wire(20AWG)
L(60W) + R(60W) = 120W -> 120W / 12V = 10A -> Fuse(10A) Wire(20AWG)
L(90W) + R(90W) = 180W -> 180W / 12V = 15A -> Fuse(15A) Wire(18AWG)
L(100W) + R(100W) = 200W -> 200W / 12V = ~17A -> Fuse(20A) Wire(16AWG)
L(130W) + R(130W) = 260W -> 260W / 12V = ~22A -> Fuse(25A) Wire(14AWG)
Now of course there are more details to it, but this is just for quick reference.
And if the diagrams at HiD Planet give you a headache.
Please go to HiD Planet and register an account. That way you can read their HIDPlanet University Section that will answer all of your questions in detail.
Modified by bpr0422 at 10:50 PM 1/23/2007
Modified by bpr0422 at 10:51 PM 1/23/2007
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HID with Halogen Flash to Pass
When i posted the above diagrams, I noticed a problem with the wiring...and this was that when you pulled the high beams on, it would also turn the HIDs on, then quickly turn them off.
As far as I know, HIDs aren't supposed to be turned on and off very quickly...cause it reduces their life...
So I thought of another way to wire them.
I've posted below two diagrams, Positive Switched and Negative Switched.
This allows you to flash your high beams, without turning on the ballasts.
As far as I know, HIDs aren't supposed to be turned on and off very quickly...cause it reduces their life...
So I thought of another way to wire them.
I've posted below two diagrams, Positive Switched and Negative Switched.
This allows you to flash your high beams, without turning on the ballasts.
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