Finished up another manifold the other day...well almost. :) (Lot's o pics!)

[*Boostwerks*]

My welds are getting A LOT better, especially since I swapped over to using the tiny ass filler (1/14"?...can't remember). I've been doing a lot more prep time, and really focusing on making a good lapped, and round bead. So far it's turned out great, and my consistancy has improved a lot. However, the collector thats on there, I've had for a while, so the welds arn't nearly as pretty... I'm still waiting on some more flanges to come in so I can finish the WG tube, but it's done other wise. Let me know what you think! Thanks! Bryson Decided I'd try to personalize them... . I'm not sure if I like that. I love this pic...

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[Lamchop0000]

kudos.

[le0ftw]

It looks great . HOw many hours all together did this take you.

[TurboSI56]

Good job, man. Let's see how it looks installed!

[tepid1]

Are you using SCH10 304SS? Also what filler grade? What size and type tungsten?

[Race Egr]

Originally Posted by tepid1

Are you using SCH10 304SS? Also what filler grade? What size and type tungsten?

let me take a guess at this he is using sch 10, im guessing he ment 1/16th filler 308 grade. Im guessing red tungsten either 3/32 or 1/16 . Looks good man

[tepid1]

That is pretty much what I guessed too.... I wanted exact numbers though.

I prefer to use 3/32 red tungsten, 308 on runners and 309 on the flange to runner. About 20% flow w/ argon.

Bryson, did you use 100% argon to backpurge?

[Race Egr]

Originally Posted by tepid1

That is pretty much what I guessed too.... I wanted exact numbers though.

I prefer to use 3/32 red tungsten, 308 on runners and 309 on the flange to runner. About 20% flow w/ argon.

Bryson, did you use 100% argon to backpurge?

Have you ever tried using blue tungsten. I swear I am the only one on h-t who uses blue. I just use it because its not radioactive like red and it seems to work just as good as red for me. Just curious

[tepid1]

I work in a nuclear power plant so I know the effects of red tungsten. It is soooo miniscule that it does not bother me. To answer your question, no I have not tried blue tungsten.

Does it lay a nicer more controlled bead? Is is better against contamination? Are you using an inverter tig?

[beepy]

I also work in a nuclear plant. Small world.

Yeah, Thorium is an alpha emmiter, so unless you eat it or breath in the dust from grinding, you will not get any exposure from it. (alpha particles cannot penetrate the dead layer of skin)

I really like the manifold. Awesome welding, and for some reason the TIG'd signature is just cool. Reminds me of my domestic car days when every part I had said "Edelbrock" on it.

Looks like there isn't a lot of clearance for bolts, though!

[Race Egr]

Originally Posted by tepid1

I work in a nuclear power plant so I know the effects of red tungsten. It is soooo miniscule that it does not bother me. To answer your question, no I have not tried blue tungsten.

Does it lay a nicer more controlled bead? Is is better against contamination? Are you using an inverter tig?

Yes i use a inverter TA 185 to be exact. Honestly, I have not used red enough to to compare the two. I will try it out one day though and see if it makes a diffrence I kinda doubt that it will.

[servion]

Good work man, I'm looking forward to putting one on my wifey's car!

[tepid1]

Blue on inverters gives the results of red. Red works pretty crappy from what I have heard.... at least on SS. Maybe someone can fill in where my knowledge lacks on this issue.

[Lamchop0000]

Originally Posted by dr.NAPIER

Have you ever tried using blue tungsten. I swear I am the only one on h-t who uses blue. I just use it because its not radioactive like red and it seems to work just as good as red for me. Just curious

i use blue too, lanthanated 2%. works for me.

[*Boostwerks*]

Originally Posted by tepid1

Are you using SCH10 304SS? Also what filler grade? What size and type tungsten?

It's actually completely SCh40, with a Sch10 collector. I like my manifolds beefy to hold the exhaust heat in, and to be extreemly durable. I might switch to Sch10 down the road, but to date, I havn't made a single sch10 manifold. The filler is 308L, and it definetly is NOT 1/16. I used 1/16th on the head flange and collector, but I used the super small filler wire for the runner welds. It works great because I can sort of push the puddle down into the bevel and get great penetration with one pass. I also used 3/32nd size tung, and it's a red. I'm using an inverter machine, and havn't had any problems with using red. However, I've never used the blues, but the next time I buy tungstens, they will be blue.

It also took me about 15hrs to complete.

[RCautoworks]

.045 and .035 are the other two fillers that come to my mind, but if your using those for all passes, I would imagine you would need like 8 passes or so.

[Race Egr]

What machine using ? How many passes are u doing on the butt welds with the small filler?

[*Boostwerks*]

Originally Posted by 90blackcrx

.045 and .035 are the other two fillers that come to my mind, but if your using those for all passes, I would imagine you would need like 8 passes or so.

It's most likely .045. It's whatever Jesse uses on his manifolds. I bought the filler a long time ago, but just now started welding with it. I think Jesse does a root pass, and then a filler pass. I was able to get great penetration by just going slow, and dipping the filler constantly.

Originally Posted by dr.NAPIER

What machine using ? How many passes are u doing on the butt welds with the small filler?

Maxstar 150, and I was doing one pass with the small filler.

[RC000E]

Welds are pretty fair lookin....I like the overall design of the manifold.

[RCautoworks]

Well I can't see doing two passes on sch10, if prepped right. And from the looks of it, I see a few welds that look concave. Two passes are a must if your using the right filler, but with anything smaller then 1/16 I would assume you would need more then two passes.

[*Boostwerks*]

Originally Posted by 90blackcrx

Well I can't see doing two passes on sch10, if prepped right. And from the looks of it, I see a few welds that look concave. Two passes are a must if your using the right filler, but with anything smaller then 1/16 I would assume you would need more then two passes.

Where? Theres not a single place on it thats concave. most of the welds actually bulge out from the seam just a little bit. It might be the picture..?

But I'll definetly try a root pass, and see if the results are better.

[GeeGee]

Some of the welds look like they could use some improvement, such as the weld on the collector in 3rd pic and the wg elbow on the 6th pic. But you said you had the collector for awhile so..
And another thing is you can do a better job align the piping to the collector because it looks like 3 of of 4 are misaligned.


Modified by GeeGee at 12:18 PM 12/6/2006

[RCautoworks]

Originally Posted by Boostwerks.com

Where? Theres not a single place on it thats concave. most of the welds actually bulge out from the seam just a little bit. It might be the picture..?

But I'll definetly try a root pass, and see if the results are better.

Some of the pics, it could be the pics. But if you bevel sch10 or 40 which is the right way to prep it, you can't just do one pass, thats not the right way to weld sch10 or 40.

[B18C1CYA]

Looks good Bryson if you are looking for 100% pennatration on sch 40 I would rebevel the pipes so the land is just a hair smaller and use 1/16" filler and 100% in a single pass is no problem , also how many amps you running ?? the small stuff works great , I have used both but with my welding style I perfer 1/16" filler , also you have came a long way so keep up the good work

[*Boostwerks*]

Originally Posted by GeeGee

Some of the welds look like they could use some improvement, such as the weld on the collector in 3rd pic and the wg elbow on the 6th pic. But you said you had the collector for awhile so..
And another thing is you can do a better job align the piping to the collector because it looks like 3 of of 4 are misaligned.


Modified by GeeGee at 12:18 PM 12/6/2006

Like I said, and you mentioned...the collector I've had for a while, so the collector (except the inside welds) are in no way a representation of my welds today.

and about the alignment...they are all aligned perfectly. THe only thing making them seem other wise is that the pipe is sch40, and the collector is sch10.

Originally Posted by 90blackcrx

Some of the pics, it could be the pics. But if you bevel sch10 or 40 which is the right way to prep it, you can't just do one pass, thats not the right way to weld sch10 or 40.

Why not? I think if you can completely fill the bevel with the puddle and not have the weld be concave, there is nothing wrong with doing one pass.

Originally Posted by B18C1CYA

Looks good Bryson if you are looking for 100% pennatration on sch 40 I would rebevel the pipes so the land is just a hair smaller and use 1/16" filler and 100% in a single pass is no problem , also how many amps you running ?? the small stuff works great , I have used both but with my welding style I perfer 1/16" filler , also you have came a long way so keep up the good work

Thanks man! (gotta give props to my mentor!). Yeah, I'm definetly looking for 100% penetration, but I obviously havn't gotten there yet. So it's pretty much impossible to get 100% penetration without rebeveling the pipes? Right now I set the machine at about 120amps, but I'm almost never flooring the pedal. I find that its much better for me if I can set the machine high and learn to control the puddle with my foot, rather than some peoples set it and floor it technique.