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#251 | |||||
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 168
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#252 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Locash
Posts: 4,333
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In order for a remote to work the alarm has to be programmed to recognize it. You program the alarm to recognize the remote by turning the key on and hitting the valet button a certain amount of times. In other words, you don't have anything to worry about unless you had it installed at a questionable shop.
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Cause For Alarm ver7 |
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#253 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Casper, WY, USA
Posts: 214
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I have a simple question about a Viper 560XV My remote is somehow now only programed to Arm/Lock car and the other 3 buttons are useless. It used to work as a factory keyless entry system has worked before. So if i unplug constant and switched power from the alarm will it reset? If at all possible can you give me better directions as how to reprogram the remote back to the standard configuration. Ive tried setting it back but somehow it went from having separate lock/arm, unlock/disarm, aux, 2nd channel output (usually remote start right?). But now the Lock button does nothing, and the unlock button only locks/arms with no disarm. so i had to unlock my car with the key, bear with my 3 sirens and disable the brain. I dont have battery backup yet. Waiting till i upgrade to the 2-way system. So DEI's instructions confused me and i dont know how to set it all back to Factory configuration. Somebody please help me out.......
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http://www.EJ1OwnersClub.com CD Squad member #058 Retired Car gone EJ Squad member #1,198 Retired car gone DA Squad member #358 |
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#254 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Casper, WY, USA
Posts: 214
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Anybody?
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http://www.EJ1OwnersClub.com CD Squad member #058 Retired Car gone EJ Squad member #1,198 Retired car gone DA Squad member #358 |
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#255 |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1
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Excellent guide. Thanks a lot.
I followed the advice on using two sirens, one internal and one external. When tring to defeat my own security system, I thought up of a way that may quickly disable the internal siren. With access to the engine bay, instead of simply cutting the external siren wire, I can touch it to the body of the car and short out the siren signal. That should also disable any other sirens and possibly damage the alarm control unit. Is my assessment accurate that this is a weakness? For my car, I got a GSM alarm system imported from China that can page my cell phone anywhere in the country (once there's GSM cell reception, which is almost everywhere in my country). I can also control the alarm via phone and do other cool things like listen in, and speak to driver. Also activate immobilizer in case I get hijacked. The anti-hijacking was the main feature I wanted. |
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#256 | |
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i ♥ my honda
MoDeRaToR Join Date: May 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 9,570
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#257 | |
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Junior Member
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Phrequenc, Did you ever make that write up (with pictures) on the hood latch relocation for 96-00 Civics? Sorry, don't mean to highjack the thread...was just curious!
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#258 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
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First, great post!
I have a classic Honda, literally. '88 Accord, 4-door, manual. How do the instructions on this post differ? I.e., say I wanted to install the fuel, starter, ignition and clutch kill switches. Are these components still in the same place (generally) or totally different? Same for the hood cable? They can cut through the fendersplash (or onder the front bumper) and hit the engine block that way? expletivein A! I'm trying to make my car crackhead proof. Stealth is also a plus, I totally agree. expletive, if I could put armor on this thing with .50 cals mounted by the sunroof, I would! Cheers VV5 |
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#259 |
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Member
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SuspendedHatch, thanks for the write-up. I'm using it to help with my alarm installation.
I'll share a kill switch that I've been using for the past 3 years with no problems. I found it back in the day and the page is back up. It is a bit more complicated than a regular rocker type kill switch but it works like a champ! Those with difficulties using a SPDT might have a really hard time with a DPDT relay. All parts cost me about $50 at Frys or Radio Shack. You'll have an exposed arming pushbutton. Pushing the button will arm the system-cutting whatever circuit- and turn on a flashing LED. To disarm the system, wave a magnet over the hidden spot where your disarm manget reed swich is hidden. The light will turn off and the system will allow whatever circuit to work again. one could use it on the fuel pump, starter, clutch, ignition, ECU power... use your imagination! Magnetic kill switch How To: http://autospeed.com/A_107975/cms/article.html
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'99 B18C5 Civic Hatchback- for fun '08 L15A Fit Hatchback- for the wife |
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#260 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: you better be protected cause there are SICKOS all arround me, ca, us
Posts: 4,755
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so if my alarm is phuked up and not active but the key wont turn on the car???
does this mean i have to take it to a pro...or is a DIY to bypass the thing that doen't let it cranck.?? Modified by Dead CIVIC at 10:52 PM 2/22/2008
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YBFB crew member #369 POW MIA---SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS add me http://profile.myspace.com/ind...31614 DEsTinati0N 12 team member. |
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#261 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rialto, Ca, USA
Posts: 34
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Can the fuel kill be controlled by your alarm ground-when-armed output, r does it have to be switch controlled?
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SOLD: 97 Civic Coupe EX CURRENT: 2000 Civic Coupe SI (under construction) EMAIL: truwestsida@yahoo.com INSTALL YOUR ALARM YOURSELF http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938 |
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#262 |
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Member
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I'm sure it can be... but why not make it a separate thing altogether? It'll be another thing that a thief will have to find and figure out.
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'99 B18C5 Civic Hatchback- for fun '08 L15A Fit Hatchback- for the wife |
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#263 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Antarctica, United States
Posts: 231
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#264 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wichita/Derby, KS, USA
Posts: 1,195
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Quote:
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Girls are like cars you want every hot one that you see, but you only love yours. Good Sellers: b18cEK Good buyers: 95 Integra, honda_0910, cybergreencivic, siboosted |
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#265 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wichita/Derby, KS, USA
Posts: 1,195
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Quote:
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Girls are like cars you want every hot one that you see, but you only love yours. Good Sellers: b18cEK Good buyers: 95 Integra, honda_0910, cybergreencivic, siboosted |
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#266 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 756
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I picked up some nice goodies today. Got some Brown FuseBox Option Plugs, both sides, and even found a Green one off an Integra w/a 10g Ignition wire!
I also got the Ignition/Starter plugs that suspendedHatch uses for his Engine Bay Ignition Kill. I'll wire and loom it up and put it up for sale if anyone wants it. I can't use it... Anyway, thanks for all the great info! JasonGhostz
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FS: OEM HEAVEN!!!, EK 2DR Taillights (Red/Amber), License Plate Relocation Kit, Trim Pieces (Code F). ALSO: Bulldog T-Harness... http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/2052801 | http://www.mygt4diary.com |
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#267 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: secret, ca
Posts: 1,381
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i was in my friends car and saw that he had some what of a kill switch, it was in his integra, called "loctronics" ? he said it was common for most integras, are those easy to bypass
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#268 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 756
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http://www.aboutsecurityconcep...at=71
http://sacramento.citysearch.c....html This is all I've found on them. If you really want to know, you'll have to do some digging yourself... Hope this helps. JasonGhostz
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FS: OEM HEAVEN!!!, EK 2DR Taillights (Red/Amber), License Plate Relocation Kit, Trim Pieces (Code F). ALSO: Bulldog T-Harness... http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/2052801 | http://www.mygt4diary.com |
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#269 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 756
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I guess it's not really too big of a deal, but I was wondering if anyone knows of good techniques for taping (not tapping) a "T" connection. I'm not completely nept, but I'm certainly not experienced enough to know how to do so effectively without using a lot of tape.
In any case, I wired up the Engine Bay Ignition Kill like suspendedHatch did, so if anyone wants it, or pics of it, lemme know. JasonGhostz
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FS: OEM HEAVEN!!!, EK 2DR Taillights (Red/Amber), License Plate Relocation Kit, Trim Pieces (Code F). ALSO: Bulldog T-Harness... http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/2052801 | http://www.mygt4diary.com |
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#270 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 756
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I'm not sure about how many other chassis families have them, but for those who aren't and don't plan on installing OEM Foglights...
On the EK, there is a single wire Brown Plug in the Engine Bay that connects to another Brown Plug in the Cabin, just behind the Fuse Box (both male). It's either 20 or 18 gage, and is Blue/Red. I am not 100% sure whether this wire connects to anything else, but I don't think so. It will show in the Helm Manual as the Foglight Connector. This is also where you want to look on any salvage yard EKs if you want to use them any of your FuseBox Freepins. Anyway if you have the Female side (or even if you don't), you can use it to avoid going through a grommet for something like an Engine Bay Igntion Kill Ground or a Hood Pin Trigger Wire, Siren, etc. It also saves the time of taping and relooming the harness. Hope this helps! JasonGhostz
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FS: OEM HEAVEN!!!, EK 2DR Taillights (Red/Amber), License Plate Relocation Kit, Trim Pieces (Code F). ALSO: Bulldog T-Harness... http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/2052801 | http://www.mygt4diary.com |
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#271 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 756
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On my 96-00 CIVIC EX, there is (what looks to be) a 12ga Red/Green wire from the Combo Light Switch to the FuseBox.
Can I tap my Alarm's Parking Light output to this instead of the Red/Black Wire found in other places? Thanks in advance! JasonGhostz Modified by JasonGhostz at 8:31 PM 6/11/2008
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FS: OEM HEAVEN!!!, EK 2DR Taillights (Red/Amber), License Plate Relocation Kit, Trim Pieces (Code F). ALSO: Bulldog T-Harness... http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/2052801 | http://www.mygt4diary.com |
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#272 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 756
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Quote:
This Red/Green Wire connects the Combo Switch with the UTD FuseBox. With the Combo Switch in the 2nd or 3rd position, it supplies +12v 30A from he UTH FuseBox (#48). Since I'm going to be connecting to this wire instead of the Red/Black wire (which is 7.5A), I'll be adding a 7.5A Fuse close to where I connect to the RedGreen from the Combo Switch. I hope I'm right... JasonGhostz
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FS: OEM HEAVEN!!!, EK 2DR Taillights (Red/Amber), License Plate Relocation Kit, Trim Pieces (Code F). ALSO: Bulldog T-Harness... http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/2052801 | http://www.mygt4diary.com |
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#273 |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: red deer, alberta, canada
Posts: 5
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Just wanted to say nice job, I have been installing this crap for 17 years and its nice to see someone care how it goes in!!!
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Just about done 91 civic h/b 23lbs of boost!! http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emsmile.gif |
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#274 |
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Junior Member
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quick question.....i'm installing a hornet 740t in my crx, and i have a question about one of the wires. there's an orange wire on the main harness that's identified as "ground when armed". in the install manual it says that it should go to an optional sensor or accessory. my question is this.....can i wire that into the factory horn to give myself a back up to the alarm's siren? i plan on installing the alarm tomorrow, so quick answers are appreciated.
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#275 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Western Hemisphere
Posts: 402
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You would need a relay. It's not recommended though as hooking the alarm to the horn is extremely annoying. A piezo siren hidden in the interior is a better option.
That wire is for your start-kill relay.
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My motor doesn't exist. |
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